where best place to buy caps and some test leads?

R

RobertMacy

Guest
Large Vizio TV went through the 'dried out' electrolytics, where didn't
dare to turn off TV for a while, then just didn't work at all soset aside.
Recently went through and sure enough looks like a 'lot run' of all
ismilar caps failed, 10uF, 50vDC radial lead 105C had 1.5 to 2 ohms Resr!
and the

so what is the P1018, P1016, P1020 and such mean? is that for a package
C-V size, or something?

ELECTROLYTIC CAPS
anyway need these
two 10uF 50V 105C P1018
one 10uF 50V 105C P1016

the size does not matter, lead spacing is either 100 or 150 mils and the
caps are just stuck in there, not very flush at all with room to use
larger size caps.

also there were some caps in the switchig section that seemed to be a
little high on Resr, so might as well replace same time:
2ea 220uF, 16Vdc, P1018
1ea 100uF, 35Vdc, P1020
there's also a lot of space for these, too.


also need some test leads:
TEST LEADS
blk/red MiniGrabber tm
stackable banana to clip, 24 inch long
clip at each end, 24 inch long
BNC female to clips

SOLDER SUCKER
had this shatter inside, a little plastic piece that makes the plunger
attached to something. this was strange

It's the big long blue one with the plunger that pops out in your face.


Is there one place to get this stuff that has good prices, and NOT eBay,
nor Fry's
 
Hi Robert,

On 8/12/2014 3:15 PM, RobertMacy wrote:
Large Vizio TV went through the 'dried out' electrolytics, where didn't
dare to turn off TV for a while, then just didn't work at all soset
aside. Recently went through and sure enough looks like a 'lot run' of
all ismilar caps failed, 10uF, 50vDC radial lead 105C had 1.5 to 2 ohms
Resr! and the

so what is the P1018, P1016, P1020 and such mean? is that for a package
C-V size, or something?

(sigh) I see a lot of dead Vizio's. Though I can't tell if this is
because they have a higher failure rate, higher *sales* rate or are
just more readily discarded/replaced!

ELECTROLYTIC CAPS
anyway need these
two 10uF 50V 105C P1018
one 10uF 50V 105C P1016

the size does not matter, lead spacing is either 100 or 150 mils and the
caps are just stuck in there, not very flush at all with room to use
larger size caps.

Make sure you check component height!

You may also want to consider what "grade" of cap you want (in addition
to high temp). I.e., how long you expect to keep the set running.
(given that the effort to open it and service it often exceeds the
small increase in component prices)

Panasonic FM series are reasonably good.

E.g., we've a 12 (?) year old plasma that I'm pretty sure I won't open
again when it next fails. Sad as it has a pleasant picture!

also there were some caps in the switchig section that seemed to be a
little high on Resr, so might as well replace same time:
2ea 220uF, 16Vdc, P1018
1ea 100uF, 35Vdc, P1020
there's also a lot of space for these, too.

also need some test leads:
TEST LEADS
blk/red MiniGrabber tm
stackable banana to clip, 24 inch long
clip at each end, 24 inch long
BNC female to clips

SOLDER SUCKER
had this shatter inside, a little plastic piece that makes the plunger
attached to something. this was strange

It's the big long blue one with the plunger that pops out in your face.

Is there one place to get this stuff that has good prices, and NOT eBay,
nor Fry's

Digikey is my first stop, usually. Prices aren't necessarily "the
best"... OTOH, they aren't "the worst", either!

Consider a ceramic tip for soldapult. Last longer (OTOH, you can't
mash them down around the tip of the iron as easily!)
 
In article <op.xkh2r9iy2cx0wh@ajm>, robert.a.macy@gmail.com says...
Large Vizio TV went through the 'dried out' electrolytics, where didn't
dare to turn off TV for a while, then just didn't work at all soset aside.
Recently went through and sure enough looks like a 'lot run' of all
ismilar caps failed, 10uF, 50vDC radial lead 105C had 1.5 to 2 ohms Resr!
and the

so what is the P1018, P1016, P1020 and such mean? is that for a package
C-V size, or something?

ELECTROLYTIC CAPS
anyway need these
two 10uF 50V 105C P1018
one 10uF 50V 105C P1016

the size does not matter, lead spacing is either 100 or 150 mils and the
caps are just stuck in there, not very flush at all with room to use
larger size caps.

also there were some caps in the switchig section that seemed to be a
little high on Resr, so might as well replace same time:
2ea 220uF, 16Vdc, P1018
1ea 100uF, 35Vdc, P1020
there's also a lot of space for these, too.


also need some test leads:
TEST LEADS
blk/red MiniGrabber tm
stackable banana to clip, 24 inch long
clip at each end, 24 inch long
BNC female to clips

SOLDER SUCKER
had this shatter inside, a little plastic piece that makes the plunger
attached to something. this was strange

It's the big long blue one with the plunger that pops out in your face.


Is there one place to get this stuff that has good prices, and NOT eBay,
nor Fry's

if you don't want to spend a lot check and have a radio shaft near you
see if they have the 40 watt desoldering iron that has a rubber suction
bubble on it.

I have a pile of them I got over the years every time I stop of that
shack and pick one up if they were on sale or what ever.

I now use a rework station but these things come on handy with remote
work that isn't to difficult to remove.

Jamie
 
On Tue, 12 Aug 2014 15:15:35 -0700, RobertMacy
<robert.a.macy@gmail.com> wrote:

Large Vizio TV went through the 'dried out' electrolytics, where didn't
dare to turn off TV for a while, then just didn't work at all soset aside.
Recently went through and sure enough looks like a 'lot run' of all
ismilar caps failed, 10uF, 50vDC radial lead 105C had 1.5 to 2 ohms Resr!
and the

so what is the P1018, P1016, P1020 and such mean? is that for a package
C-V size, or something?

ELECTROLYTIC CAPS
anyway need these
two 10uF 50V 105C P1018
one 10uF 50V 105C P1016

the size does not matter, lead spacing is either 100 or 150 mils and the
caps are just stuck in there, not very flush at all with room to use
larger size caps.

also there were some caps in the switchig section that seemed to be a
little high on Resr, so might as well replace same time:
2ea 220uF, 16Vdc, P1018
1ea 100uF, 35Vdc, P1020
there's also a lot of space for these, too.


also need some test leads:
TEST LEADS
blk/red MiniGrabber tm
stackable banana to clip, 24 inch long
clip at each end, 24 inch long
BNC female to clips

SOLDER SUCKER
had this shatter inside, a little plastic piece that makes the plunger
attached to something. this was strange

It's the big long blue one with the plunger that pops out in your face.


Is there one place to get this stuff that has good prices, and NOT eBay,
nor Fry's

Digikey or mouser.

I've been changing caps in Dell monitors as they go bad. We have
Nichcon on hand so it's not an issue for me.

Cheers
 
On Tue, 12 Aug 2014 17:40:16 -0700, Martin Riddle <martin_rid@verizon.net>
wrote:

...snip....
Digikey or mouser.

I've been changing caps in Dell monitors as they go bad. We have
Nichcon on hand so it's not an issue for me.

Cheers

Did you get the Nichcon from Digikey?
 
On 8/12/2014 6:15 PM, RobertMacy wrote:
Large Vizio TV went through the 'dried out' electrolytics, where didn't
dare to turn off TV for a while, then just didn't work at all soset
aside. Recently went through and sure enough looks like a 'lot run' of
all ismilar caps failed, 10uF, 50vDC radial lead 105C had 1.5 to 2 ohms
Resr! and the

so what is the P1018, P1016, P1020 and such mean? is that for a package
C-V size, or something?
snip

also need some test leads:
TEST LEADS
blk/red MiniGrabber tm
stackable banana to clip, 24 inch long
clip at each end, 24 inch long
BNC female to clips

As I posted a few weeks back, I'm a huge fan of the Probemaster 8000
series,
http://www.probemaster.com/index.php?cPath=2
SOLDER SUCKER
had this shatter inside, a little plastic piece that makes the plunger
attached to something. this was strange

It's the big long blue one with the plunger that pops out in your face.

They used to be called Soldapullt but are now made by OK Industries.
The distributors have them.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
 
On Wed, 13 Aug 2014 11:37:55 -0700, Phil Hobbs <hobbs@electrooptical.net>
wrote:

On 8/12/2014 6:15 PM, RobertMacy wrote:
...snip...
As I posted a few weeks back, I'm a huge fan of the Probemaster 8000
series,
http://www.probemaster.com/index.php?cPath=2

SOLDER SUCKER
had this shatter inside, a little plastic piece that makes the plunger
attached to something. this was strange

It's the big long blue one with the plunger that pops out in your face.

They used to be called Soldapullt but are now made by OK Industries. The
distributors have them.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

Thanks for reposting. I have NO way to do a search for old postings.

I remember a solder-pullit as a smaller version with a lever on the side,
whole thing about six inches long, but that other post had exactly the
right thing at BG Micro Electonics and selling for like $6.23 each!


the test leads at that URL don't show any mini-grabbers. the automotive
test leads have two that 'look' like them but they're made to jumper to
something.

Did I miss something?
 
On Wed, 13 Aug 2014 06:28:20 -0700, RobertMacy
<robert.a.macy@gmail.com> wrote:

On Tue, 12 Aug 2014 17:40:16 -0700, Martin Riddle <martin_rid@verizon.net
wrote:

...snip....
Digikey or mouser.

I've been changing caps in Dell monitors as they go bad. We have
Nichcon on hand so it's not an issue for me.

Cheers

Did you get the Nichcon from Digikey?

Maybe? I don't know. I think we use TTI (aka Mouser) as the
distributor, But digikey does have stock of Nichicon caps.

Cheers
 
On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 3:15:35 PM UTC-7, Robert Macy wrote:
so what is the P1018, P1016, P1020 and such mean?
I would guess that it is a date code. If your TV is more than 5 years old, then I must be wrong.

Is there one place to get this stuff that has good prices, and NOT
eBay, nor Fry's
I am in Silicon Valley, so I would start with HSC (www.halted.com) or Anchor Electronics (anchor-electronics.com).

All Electronics in Vsn Nuys CA (www.allelectronics.com) does mail orders and has the capacitors and two solder suckers in their catalog; they don't have your specific test leads, but they sell everything you need to roll your own. I would not agonize too much over the prices of the capacitors since they are all under 30 cents each (they do not specify the max temperature, so I would assume 85C; do you really need 105c?).
 

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