Wanted schematics for GE television model 31GT660 or repair

G

Gobzo

Guest
Hi All:

This stubborn one has some power source problem: it may not turn on or
may turn itself off at any time. I traced the power down to the hi freq
rectifier and filter. Now without schematics I can not find where it is
distributed to and what actually would trigger on/off.

Any help appreciated.

Gobzo
 
How about the all important Chassis number so one does not have to try and
look it up.

At least when asking for help do some of the leg work before posting please.

David

Gobzo <go@ko.ko> wrote in message news:3fa70dbf$1_1@aeinews....
Hi All:

This stubborn one has some power source problem: it may not turn on or
may turn itself off at any time. I traced the power down to the hi freq
rectifier and filter. Now without schematics I can not find where it is
distributed to and what actually would trigger on/off.

Any help appreciated.

Gobzo
Click to expand...
 
David:

Thanks for your response. I am not a technician and was not aware that
this was a required piece of information. The chassis number of this one
is CTC187CN3.

Appreciate your help
Gobzo

David wrote:
How about the all important Chassis number so one does not have to try and
look it up.

At least when asking for help do some of the leg work before posting please.

David
Click to expand...
 
Go to www.repairfaq.org and follow all the information regarding the
ctc177/ctc187 series of chassis problems. Especially the tuner ground issue
and horizontal driver transformer pin contamination.

This is NOT a repair for a DIY. The chance of success for someone who has
not been trained on this chassis and lots of experience in repairing the
problems is extremely small. To make matters worse, I can honestly say that
9 out of 10 people who attempt repairs in these who are not technicians,
wind up causing more damage that costs more money to have repaired. Not so
long ago there were three postings of people who messed up repair attempts
that resulted in them throwing away the tv set.

Read ALL the information in the FAQ, if you are not sure exactly what you
are doing and have the proper equipment for the job, do yourself a favor and
take it into a reputable servicer.

David

Gobzo <go@ko.ko> wrote in message news:3fa8400d$1_2@aeinews....
David:

Thanks for your response. I am not a technician and was not aware that
this was a required piece of information. The chassis number of this one
is CTC187CN3.

Appreciate your help
Gobzo

David wrote:
How about the all important Chassis number so one does not have to try
and
look it up.

At least when asking for help do some of the leg work before posting
please.

David
Click to expand...
 
"Gobzo" <go@ko.ko> wrote in message news:3fa85db9_4@aeinews....
David:

From my experience, our local repair shops (Toronto, Canada) kill 99%
of equipment and charge 4-5 times more than actual cost of parts an
labor. I saw terrible examples of those 'professional' repairs... And
they always denied warranty claims based on 'shock during
transportation' or similar reasons.
You'll probably say those were not professionals, but how would I tell
who was and who was not? They all advertise themselves as 'world's best
experts in electronics repairs' and there was no way to tell one from
another until they ruined your device...
I am experienced with repairs to low voltage equipment, eg VCRs etc. and
will better try to fix this TV rather than let one of those pros to ruin
it. It's dead any way and was given to me for free. Not a big loss for a
chance to have a free 32" television.
Click to expand...
None of this changes the fact that everything David said is correct. With
sweeping statements like these that indicate only that you have not done
what you need to do to find true professionals, you will also likely not
garner much sympathy from those of us who have the experience.

I'd be very surprised if there are not a few good shops in a city the size
of Toronto.

Post as much detail as you can about the diagnostics you perform and the
problem and you might get some help.

The complete service literature on your set would cost you nearly as much as
a repair in many cases and may still not help you much if you don't have
experience with these kinds of sets. You might start with Bob Rose's book
on servicing RCA/GE televisions for an overview and common problems.

Leonard Caillouet
 
David:

From my experience, our local repair shops (Toronto, Canada) kill 99%
of equipment and charge 4-5 times more than actual cost of parts an
labor. I saw terrible examples of those 'professional' repairs... And
they always denied warranty claims based on 'shock during
transportation' or similar reasons.
You'll probably say those were not professionals, but how would I tell
who was and who was not? They all advertise themselves as 'world's best
experts in electronics repairs' and there was no way to tell one from
another until they ruined your device...
I am experienced with repairs to low voltage equipment, eg VCRs etc. and
will better try to fix this TV rather than let one of those pros to ruin
it. It's dead any way and was given to me for free. Not a big loss for a
chance to have a free 32" television.

Thanks,
Gobzo

David wrote:
Go to www.repairfaq.org and follow all the information regarding the
ctc177/ctc187 series of chassis problems. Especially the tuner ground issue
and horizontal driver transformer pin contamination.

This is NOT a repair for a DIY. The chance of success for someone who has
not been trained on this chassis and lots of experience in repairing the
problems is extremely small. To make matters worse, I can honestly say that
9 out of 10 people who attempt repairs in these who are not technicians,
wind up causing more damage that costs more money to have repaired. Not so
long ago there were three postings of people who messed up repair attempts
that resulted in them throwing away the tv set.

Read ALL the information in the FAQ, if you are not sure exactly what you
are doing and have the proper equipment for the job, do yourself a favor and
take it into a reputable servicer.

David

Gobzo <go@ko.ko> wrote in message news:3fa8400d$1_2@aeinews....

David:

Thanks for your response. I am not a technician and was not aware that
this was a required piece of information. The chassis number of this one
is CTC187CN3.

Appreciate your help
Gobzo

David wrote:

How about the all important Chassis number so one does not have to try

and

look it up.

At least when asking for help do some of the leg work before posting

please.

David
Click to expand...
 
"David" <dkuhajda@locl.net.spam> wrote in message
news:3fa87e49@news.greennet.net...
Go to www.repairfaq.org and follow all the information regarding the
ctc177/ctc187 series of chassis problems. Especially the tuner ground
issue
and horizontal driver transformer pin contamination.

This is NOT a repair for a DIY. The chance of success for someone who has
not been trained on this chassis and lots of experience in repairing the
problems is extremely small. To make matters worse, I can honestly say
that
9 out of 10 people who attempt repairs in these who are not technicians,
wind up causing more damage that costs more money to have repaired. Not
so
long ago there were three postings of people who messed up repair attempts
that resulted in them throwing away the tv set.
Click to expand...
What was the original symptoms? I'm a hobbiest and I've repaired quite a
number of RCA/GE sets that had tuner ground issues, but then I got to them
before the problem caused more serious damage.
 
Leonard:

Here are all the symptoms of the problem:
- The unit may start normal and work for days or may not start at all.
- Once on it may go off any time.
- While off the TV supplies power to the U3101 and buttons/IR sensor PCB.

I will try my best to describe what I diagnosed, but without schematics
my description will not be worth much, anyway this is what I did before
reading the FAQ:

- Traced the power button connection to the pin 5 of the U3101 and
checked that the signal reaches there.
- Checked all pins of that chip and figured that pin 6 and some others
will have two states consistent with pressing of the power button. I
came to a conclusion that the microcontroller was Okay.
- Checked that secondary AC on the power source transformer is rectified
and filtered to +147V at C107

Now I am at the point where I have no idea where the DC power goes, what
stabilizes it and what actually turns the power on and off. If I new
what pin of the microcontroller is used for switching the power, I would
be able to find what happens when the TV refuses to turn on.

I read the FAQ and found that I my problem is only briefly mentioned.
This unit had no tuner problems whatsoever: the picture is crisp and
geometry is good on all channels, sound quality is also fine. After
inspecting the soldering I could not find any problems at all. It looks
like the soldering problem has been fixed, can you confirm? The
manufacture date is 1997, which seems to be more recent than all horror
stories in the FAQ.

The idea of total resoldering does not sound like a good solution from
my point of view. This unit apparently has a problem with power and just
blindly soldering every joint may not do any good.

So does anyone here have schematics for this model that they could
share? I am pretty sure I only need the power source portion of it.

Any ideas and help appreciated.

Gobzo

Leonard Caillouet wrote:

"Gobzo" <go@ko.ko> wrote in message news:3fa85db9_4@aeinews....

Post as much detail as you can about the diagnostics you perform and the
problem and you might get some help.
Click to expand...
 
Did I provide not enough detail?

Gobzo

Gobzo wrote:
Leonard:

Here are all the symptoms of the problem:

Leonard Caillouet wrote:

"Gobzo" <go@ko.ko> wrote in message news:3fa85db9_4@aeinews....

Post as much detail as you can about the diagnostics you perform and the
problem and you might get some help.
Click to expand...
 
I must have missed it. I see no detail here. It is a good idea to include
the relevant information with a post. I'm sorry, but I don't have the time
to go looking for your information.

Leonard Caillouet

"Gobzo" <go@ko.ko> wrote in message news:3fae7a45$1_2@aeinews....
Did I provide not enough detail?

Gobzo

Gobzo wrote:
Leonard:

Here are all the symptoms of the problem:

Leonard Caillouet wrote:

"Gobzo" <go@ko.ko> wrote in message news:3fa85db9_4@aeinews....

Post as much detail as you can about the diagnostics you perform and
the
problem and you might get some help.
Click to expand...
 
reposting

Gobzo wrote:
Leonard:

Here are all the symptoms of the problem:
- The unit may start normal and work for days or may not start at all.
- Once on it may go off any time.
- While off the TV supplies power to the U3101 and buttons/IR sensor PCB.

I will try my best to describe what I diagnosed, but without schematics
my description will not be worth much, anyway this is what I did before
reading the FAQ:

- Traced the power button connection to the pin 5 of the U3101 and
checked that the signal reaches there.
- Checked all pins of that chip and figured that pin 6 and some others
will have two states consistent with pressing of the power button. I
came to a conclusion that the microcontroller was Okay.
- Checked that secondary AC on the power source transformer is rectified
and filtered to +147V at C107

Now I am at the point where I have no idea where the DC power goes, what
stabilizes it and what actually turns the power on and off. If I new
what pin of the microcontroller is used for switching the power, I would
be able to find what happens when the TV refuses to turn on.

I read the FAQ and found that I my problem is only briefly mentioned.
This unit had no tuner problems whatsoever: the picture is crisp and
geometry is good on all channels, sound quality is also fine. After
inspecting the soldering I could not find any problems at all. It looks
like the soldering problem has been fixed, can you confirm? The
manufacture date is 1997, which seems to be more recent than all horror
stories in the FAQ.

The idea of total resoldering does not sound like a good solution from
my point of view. This unit apparently has a problem with power and just
blindly soldering every joint may not do any good.

So does anyone here have schematics for this model that they could
share? I am pretty sure I only need the power source portion of it.

Any ideas and help appreciated.

Gobzo

Leonard Caillouet wrote:

"Gobzo" <go@ko.ko> wrote in message news:3fa85db9_4@aeinews....

Post as much detail as you can about the diagnostics you perform and the
problem and you might get some help.
Click to expand...
 
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