Want to make PCB's?

R

Richard Harris

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Please read and circulate this document if your interested in producing
PCB's of very high quality.

http://www.casaharris.com/dl/Professional PCB Production.pdf


Thanks
 
"Richard Harris" <richard@casaharris.com> wrote in message
news:cs09fp$osa$1@titan.btinternet.com...
Please read and circulate this document if your interested in
producing
PCB's of very high quality.

http://www.casaharris.com/dl/Professional PCB Production.pdf


Thanks
Click to expand...
You did mean:

http://www.casaharris.com/dl/Professional%20PCB%20Production.pdf

Right?
 
Yep

"Clarence_A" <no@No.com> wrote in message
news:h_SEd.10257$5R.6902@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com...
"Richard Harris" <richard@casaharris.com> wrote in message
news:cs09fp$osa$1@titan.btinternet.com...
Please read and circulate this document if your interested in
producing
PCB's of very high quality.

http://www.casaharris.com/dl/Professional PCB Production.pdf


Thanks


You did mean:

http://www.casaharris.com/dl/Professional%20PCB%20Production.pdf

Right?
Click to expand...
 
The guy at a local electronics store told me to use a heavy paper cutter,
like in the office. Cut's those boards like butter. Hopefully I'm not
totally screwing up the blade.


"jtm" <jtm@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pGTEd.7568$7k5.5682@fe37.usenetserver.com...
Comments:
Forget the photo-sensitive boards and the "light box". Go with
Press-n-Peel
Blue iron on transfer film: http://www.techniks.com/retail.htm. Am able
to
do .5mm spacing with it. Also, no problems when agitating the etchant.

Instead of printing to a PDF you can print to a postscript file, use a
printer driver like the "Tektronix Phaser 780 Graphics". Then do your
manipulation in Photoshop. With this method you only mirror (flip
horizontal) the TOP layer(s).

You don't mention how to cut the boards. Lowe's has a diamond blade wet
tile saw for only $58. Quick, precise, dustless, clean.
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=206291-1255-60084A

Tip: Leave the 'film' a little large to make it easier to handle. Lay it
over and align with the PCB, then lay them down on an ironing surface (I
use
a manilla folder on my desk). Use a piece of plain paper between the iron
and the film to reduce friction, this keeps the film from moving and
misaligning.

Use acetone and a paper towel to remove the resist after etching.

Tin coat with Liquid Tin.

Next, use the same method to print your own silkscreen layer (it will be
black not white). Iron it on the top side of the PCB and spray coat with
a
clear acrylic to protect it. The surface has to be smooth so do this
before
you drill the boards, it also doesn't "take" over etched traces (therefore
single sided boards only).

jtm


"Richard Harris" <richard@casaharris.com> wrote in message
news:cs09fp$osa$1@titan.btinternet.com...
Please read and circulate this document if your interested in producing
PCB's of very high quality.

http://www.casaharris.com/dl/Professional PCB Production.pdf


Thanks
Click to expand...
 
The guy at a local electronics store told me to use a heavy paper
cutter
Hopefully I'm not totally screwing up the blade.
Jim Douglas
Click to expand...
FR4 contains tough polyester resin and glass.
As Tom said, it's hard on tools.
If you're going to do this a lot,
be prepared to have your guillotine blade sharpened.
 
I'm sure it can't do a .01mm trace (that would be 20 times smaller than the
smallest trace you show!). PnP Blues easily does the smallest that
ExpressPCB can output: .18mm traces, 1.27mm text.
jtm


"Richard Harris" <richard@casaharris.com> wrote in message
news:cs3tri$qaf$1@sparta.btinternet.com...
> Can press and peel produce boards with 0.01 mm detail?
 
"Richard Harris" <richard@casaharris.com> wrote in news:cs09fp$osa$1
@titan.btinternet.com:

Please read and circulate this document if your interested in producing
PCB's of very high quality.

http://www.casaharris.com/dl/Professional PCB Production.pdf
Click to expand...
Hmm. I tried using the expressPCB pcb layout tool.
That works well, but when I print to a PDF or postscript
file, I get a 0.10" grid and the background is gray. Makes
for a lot of editing in photoshop. It seems I can't turn
the grid off or even change it to some big number (I can
in the editor but not for the printout). Is this right?
Any non-obvious solution to this?

dan
 
Im using version 4.1.1 of the expressPCB
tool. In the print layout dialog the only
thing Im selecting is the "Top Copper Layer",
there is no option to print/notprint the grid
and when I change the grid on my layout
I still get a grid on my print out on 0.100"
centers.

My workaround at the moment is to print to a file.
Then move my whole design by 0.040" and print to
another file. Then in paint shop pro I do an
arithmetic AND of the 2. Seems to work ok.

Dan

"Richard Harris" <richard_harris_2@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:ct3v3r$70b$1@sparta.btinternet.com:

No it should not have the grid present, what options are you selecting
when you go to print in PCB Express?
Click to expand...
 
Hey,
Thats the method I used too. Take a snapshot of the screen and paste it
into photoshop. Cut the design out and paste it into a new picture.
Change image size and resolution (i used 600 p/i with a laser printer)
and viola! This way you can also print out multiple copies of the PCB
on one transparency
 
Comments:
Forget the photo-sensitive boards and the "light box". Go with Press-n-Peel
Blue iron on transfer film: http://www.techniks.com/retail.htm. Am able to
do .5mm spacing with it. Also, no problems when agitating the etchant.

Instead of printing to a PDF you can print to a postscript file, use a
printer driver like the "Tektronix Phaser 780 Graphics". Then do your
manipulation in Photoshop. With this method you only mirror (flip
horizontal) the TOP layer(s).

You don't mention how to cut the boards. Lowe's has a diamond blade wet
tile saw for only $58. Quick, precise, dustless, clean.
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=206291-1255-60084A

Tip: Leave the 'film' a little large to make it easier to handle. Lay it
over and align with the PCB, then lay them down on an ironing surface (I use
a manilla folder on my desk). Use a piece of plain paper between the iron
and the film to reduce friction, this keeps the film from moving and
misaligning.

Use acetone and a paper towel to remove the resist after etching.

Tin coat with Liquid Tin.

Next, use the same method to print your own silkscreen layer (it will be
black not white). Iron it on the top side of the PCB and spray coat with a
clear acrylic to protect it. The surface has to be smooth so do this before
you drill the boards, it also doesn't "take" over etched traces (therefore
single sided boards only).

jtm


"Richard Harris" <richard@casaharris.com> wrote in message
news:cs09fp$osa$1@titan.btinternet.com...
Please read and circulate this document if your interested in producing
PCB's of very high quality.

http://www.casaharris.com/dl/Professional PCB Production.pdf


Thanks
Click to expand...
 
FR4 is VERY hard on cutters.

Tom Woodrow

Jim Douglas wrote:
The guy at a local electronics store told me to use a heavy paper cutter,
like in the office. Cut's those boards like butter. Hopefully I'm not
totally screwing up the blade.


"jtm" <jtm@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pGTEd.7568$7k5.5682@fe37.usenetserver.com...

Comments:
Forget the photo-sensitive boards and the "light box". Go with

Press-n-Peel

Blue iron on transfer film: http://www.techniks.com/retail.htm. Am able

to

do .5mm spacing with it. Also, no problems when agitating the etchant.

Instead of printing to a PDF you can print to a postscript file, use a
printer driver like the "Tektronix Phaser 780 Graphics". Then do your
manipulation in Photoshop. With this method you only mirror (flip
horizontal) the TOP layer(s).

You don't mention how to cut the boards. Lowe's has a diamond blade wet
tile saw for only $58. Quick, precise, dustless, clean.
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=206291-1255-60084A

Tip: Leave the 'film' a little large to make it easier to handle. Lay it
over and align with the PCB, then lay them down on an ironing surface (I

use

a manilla folder on my desk). Use a piece of plain paper between the iron
and the film to reduce friction, this keeps the film from moving and
misaligning.

Use acetone and a paper towel to remove the resist after etching.

Tin coat with Liquid Tin.

Next, use the same method to print your own silkscreen layer (it will be
black not white). Iron it on the top side of the PCB and spray coat with

a

clear acrylic to protect it. The surface has to be smooth so do this

before

you drill the boards, it also doesn't "take" over etched traces (therefore
single sided boards only).

jtm


"Richard Harris" <richard@casaharris.com> wrote in message
news:cs09fp$osa$1@titan.btinternet.com...

Please read and circulate this document if your interested in producing
PCB's of very high quality.

http://www.casaharris.com/dl/Professional PCB Production.pdf


Thanks
Click to expand...
 
Can press and peel produce boards with 0.01 mm detail?


"Jim Douglas" <james.douglas@genesis-software.com> wrote in message
news:s8OdnZr65bQr-XncRVn-sQ@comcast.com...
The guy at a local electronics store told me to use a heavy paper cutter,
like in the office. Cut's those boards like butter. Hopefully I'm not
totally screwing up the blade.


"jtm" <jtm@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pGTEd.7568$7k5.5682@fe37.usenetserver.com...
Comments:
Forget the photo-sensitive boards and the "light box". Go with
Press-n-Peel
Blue iron on transfer film: http://www.techniks.com/retail.htm. Am able
to
do .5mm spacing with it. Also, no problems when agitating the etchant.

Instead of printing to a PDF you can print to a postscript file, use a
printer driver like the "Tektronix Phaser 780 Graphics". Then do your
manipulation in Photoshop. With this method you only mirror (flip
horizontal) the TOP layer(s).

You don't mention how to cut the boards. Lowe's has a diamond blade wet
tile saw for only $58. Quick, precise, dustless, clean.

http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=206291-1255-60084A

Tip: Leave the 'film' a little large to make it easier to handle. Lay
it
over and align with the PCB, then lay them down on an ironing surface (I
use
a manilla folder on my desk). Use a piece of plain paper between the
iron
and the film to reduce friction, this keeps the film from moving and
misaligning.

Use acetone and a paper towel to remove the resist after etching.

Tin coat with Liquid Tin.

Next, use the same method to print your own silkscreen layer (it will be
black not white). Iron it on the top side of the PCB and spray coat
with
a
clear acrylic to protect it. The surface has to be smooth so do this
before
you drill the boards, it also doesn't "take" over etched traces
(therefore
single sided boards only).

jtm


"Richard Harris" <richard@casaharris.com> wrote in message
news:cs09fp$osa$1@titan.btinternet.com...
Please read and circulate this document if your interested in
producing
PCB's of very high quality.

http://www.casaharris.com/dl/Professional PCB Production.pdf


Thanks
Click to expand...
 
"Dan" <dansix@pobox.com> wrote in message
news:Xns95E69758242A0RhubarbIsRed@216.196.97.136...
"Richard Harris" <richard@casaharris.com> wrote in news:cs09fp$osa$1
@titan.btinternet.com:

Please read and circulate this document if your interested in producing
PCB's of very high quality.

http://www.casaharris.com/dl/Professional PCB Production.pdf

Hmm. I tried using the expressPCB pcb layout tool.
That works well, but when I print to a PDF or postscript
file, I get a 0.10" grid and the background is gray. Makes
for a lot of editing in photoshop. It seems I can't turn
the grid off or even change it to some big number (I can
in the editor but not for the printout). Is this right?
Any non-obvious solution to this?

dan
Click to expand...
Hello Dan,

I use pcbexpress to layout my pc boards, but I take a screenshot of the
finished drawing. It comes out as a bitmap and then I go to paintshop pro to
resize it (first, a pixel resize to 150 pixels/inch, and then a bilinear
resample to the correct size) so that it can be printed. I have never had a
problem with the grid.

hth,
Joe
 
No it should not have the grid present, what options are you selecting when
you go to print in PCB Express?


"Joe" <nuisancewildlife@nospamearthlink.net> wrote in message
news:i6ZId.8679$rp1.3853@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
"Dan" <dansix@pobox.com> wrote in message
news:Xns95E69758242A0RhubarbIsRed@216.196.97.136...
"Richard Harris" <richard@casaharris.com> wrote in news:cs09fp$osa$1
@titan.btinternet.com:

Please read and circulate this document if your interested in producing
PCB's of very high quality.

http://www.casaharris.com/dl/Professional PCB Production.pdf

Hmm. I tried using the expressPCB pcb layout tool.
That works well, but when I print to a PDF or postscript
file, I get a 0.10" grid and the background is gray. Makes
for a lot of editing in photoshop. It seems I can't turn
the grid off or even change it to some big number (I can
in the editor but not for the printout). Is this right?
Any non-obvious solution to this?

dan

Hello Dan,

I use pcbexpress to layout my pc boards, but I take a screenshot of the
finished drawing. It comes out as a bitmap and then I go to paintshop pro
to
resize it (first, a pixel resize to 150 pixels/inch, and then a bilinear
resample to the correct size) so that it can be printed. I have never had
a
problem with the grid.

hth,
Joe
Click to expand...
 
Since writting that document (Professional PCB) I have located a better
program that is a lot harder to use but works ok, Easy PC can be downloaded
in a demo form. If you would like to know how to start working with it email
me and Ill explain how to use it.


"Dan" <dansix@pobox.com> wrote in message
news:Xns95E69758242A0RhubarbIsRed@216.196.97.136...
"Richard Harris" <richard@casaharris.com> wrote in news:cs09fp$osa$1
@titan.btinternet.com:

Please read and circulate this document if your interested in producing
PCB's of very high quality.

http://www.casaharris.com/dl/Professional PCB Production.pdf

Hmm. I tried using the expressPCB pcb layout tool.
That works well, but when I print to a PDF or postscript
file, I get a 0.10" grid and the background is gray. Makes
for a lot of editing in photoshop. It seems I can't turn
the grid off or even change it to some big number (I can
in the editor but not for the printout). Is this right?
Any non-obvious solution to this?

dan
Click to expand...
 
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