Using a LED for 12V Tractor

Guest
I have a farm tractor with a 12Volt battery (like in a car). I
regularly forget to turn off the power switch when the tractor runs
out of gas, or powers down under load. It only takes a few hours and
the battery is dead. I've decided that I need a power indicator light
to remind me that the switch is on. To use the least amount of power
and eliminate having to replace bulbs, I want a LED indicator. I was
looking on the Radio Shack website and this looks like what I want.
http://tinyurl.com/5al49d

My question is this:
I know a LED requires a resistor. It says this is rated at 12V, but
then it says it contains a LED (does not mention a resistor). I was
hoping for a complete unit with the resistor built in, but it appears
they do not sell them. I can add a resistor, but what size (ohms) do
I need?

Thanks

LM
 
letterman@invalid.com wrote:

I have a farm tractor with a 12Volt battery (like in a car). I
regularly forget to turn off the power switch when the tractor runs
out of gas, or powers down under load. It only takes a few hours and
the battery is dead. I've decided that I need a power indicator light
to remind me that the switch is on. To use the least amount of power
and eliminate having to replace bulbs, I want a LED indicator. I was
looking on the Radio Shack website and this looks like what I want.
http://tinyurl.com/5al49d

My question is this:
I know a LED requires a resistor. It says this is rated at 12V, but
then it says it contains a LED (does not mention a resistor). I was
hoping for a complete unit with the resistor built in, but it appears
they do not sell them. I can add a resistor, but what size (ohms) do
I need?

Thanks

LM
I don't have a tractor, but my car has an indicator that lights up when
the ignition is on and the alternator is not charging. Seems like that
would be a good solution for your need. I'm surprised a tractor doesn't
have that already, but it would be easy to add your LED across the
alternator blocking diode.

Bryce
 
letterman@invalid.com wrote:
I have a farm tractor with a 12Volt battery (like in a car). I
regularly forget to turn off the power switch when the tractor runs
out of gas, or powers down under load. It only takes a few hours and
the battery is dead. I've decided that I need a power indicator light
to remind me that the switch is on. To use the least amount of power
and eliminate having to replace bulbs, I want a LED indicator. I was
looking on the Radio Shack website and this looks like what I want.
http://tinyurl.com/5al49d

My question is this:
I know a LED requires a resistor. It says this is rated at 12V, but
then it says it contains a LED (does not mention a resistor). I was
hoping for a complete unit with the resistor built in, but it appears
they do not sell them. I can add a resistor, but what size (ohms) do
I need?

I would use a 12 VDC Sonalert, or generic Piezo sounder with a diode
in series. Connect it between he headlight circuit, and the inanition
switch so that it makes noise when you shut off the ignition, and still
have the light on. They sell these for cars. Here ids the first hit
from a Google search, and they are available at most care parts places.

<http://www.carparts.com/LIGHTS-ON-ALARM/GP_2001371_N_111+10718+600021987_10618.car>


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There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.
 
On 09/02/2008 09:12 AM, Michael A. Terrell sent:
letterman@invalid.com wrote:
I have a farm tractor with a 12Volt battery (like in a car). I
regularly forget to turn off the power switch when the tractor runs
out of gas, or powers down under load. It only takes a few hours and
the battery is dead. I've decided that I need a power indicator light
to remind me that the switch is on. To use the least amount of power
and eliminate having to replace bulbs, I want a LED indicator. I was
looking on the Radio Shack website and this looks like what I want.
http://tinyurl.com/5al49d

My question is this:
I know a LED requires a resistor. It says this is rated at 12V, but
then it says it contains a LED (does not mention a resistor). I was
hoping for a complete unit with the resistor built in, but it appears
they do not sell them. I can add a resistor, but what size (ohms) do
I need?


I would use a 12 VDC Sonalert, or generic Piezo sounder with a diode
in series. Connect it between he headlight circuit, and the ignition
switch so that it makes noise when you shut off the ignition, and still
have the light on. They sell these for cars. Here ids the first hit
from a Google search, and they are available at most care parts places.

http://www.carparts.com/LIGHTS-ON-ALARM/GP_2001371_N_111+10718+600021987_10618.car
Hello to All:

I believe everyone has given good information to the OP.

I believe Michael's idea is the closest to ideal. A variant I have
used, for decades, uses the same Sonalert/diode arrangement. However,
while I did connect the positive Sonalert/diode side to the ignition
circuit, I connect the negative side to oil pressure sensor switch.

An additional diode (1N400X) can also be connected between the
headlights and the positive side of the Sonalert/diode unit to provide
dual protection. Total cost; about $10.00USD. Total labor time; about
one hour. YMMV.

Best wishes to all.

--
1PW

@?6A62?FEH9:DE=6o2@=]4@> [r4o7t]
 
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article <-tednUhLfcF_-CDVnZ2dnUVZ_gCdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
I would use a 12 VDC Sonalert, or generic Piezo sounder with a diode
in series. Connect it between he headlight circuit, and the inanition
switch so that it makes noise when you shut off the ignition, and still
have the light on.

Have you actually read the question?


Yes. did you? The solution I posted is used in cars for the same
reason. It is connected between to points that are at +12 VDC when the
engine is running, and the lights are on. if you shut off the engine,
the sounder goes off. they are used in cars, because you can miss a
small indicator when you are in a hurry, or have sunlight shining on
it. I built my first one over 30 years ago, and built several for
family & friends, until they were available over the counter. It draws
zero power when not giving an alarm, and less current than a bright LED.


Do whatever you want. At this point in my life, I'm not going to
argue.



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http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

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There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.
 
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <-tednUhLfcF_-CDVnZ2dnUVZ_gCdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
I would use a 12 VDC Sonalert, or generic Piezo sounder with a diode
in series. Connect it between he headlight circuit, and the inanition
switch so that it makes noise when you shut off the ignition, and still
have the light on.

Have you actually read the question?

I'm with Michael. Audible alert would seem to make more sense, either
alone or in conjunction with visible indication. Tractors get used in
full sunlight, where an LED would have to be pretty bright to attract
attention.

He may have missed that it was an ignition on/engine off situation--as
opposed to a *lights* on/ignition off issue--but the principle is the same.

jak
 
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article <-cydnU4XL8meDyDVnZ2dnUVZ_uudnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article <-tednUhLfcF_-CDVnZ2dnUVZ_gCdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
I would use a 12 VDC Sonalert, or generic Piezo sounder with a
diode in series. Connect it between he headlight circuit, and the
inanition switch so that it makes noise when you shut off the
ignition, and still have the light on.

Have you actually read the question?

Yes. did you? The solution I posted is used in cars for the same
reason.

The OP obviously has little technical knowledge and you've said to connect
it between the headlamp circuit and ignition switch.

Because that is the accepted way to do it in the US. The two
switched sources provide the needed logic for free, even if you can't
see it. It works the way the OP asked, and will do what he wants without
spending a lot of money, or having reliability problems. After reading
a lot of your messages over the years it appears you are more interested
in pushing your way, and to hell with everyone else.


Wired the way I stated, you have +12 VDC on point 'A' when the
headlamp(s) are on. If the ignition switch is on, you also have +12 VDC
on point 'B' and no current will flow. Shut the ignition switch off, and
the voltage drops to zero, applying power to the enunciator. I'm sorry
that you either can't, or won't see this. Because of this, I would never
try to explain anything complex to you. You would be completely lost on
the equipment I last worked on, with over 20 processors, multiple signal
paths and interface systems you can't grasp. Or any of the TV stations I
built or maintained. Apparently attacking a problem with logic has been
supplanted with making wild assed guesses and accusations.


It is connected between to points that are at +12 VDC when the
engine is running, and the lights are on.

I know how a lights on alarm works.

if you shut off the engine,
the sounder goes off. they are used in cars, because you can miss a
small indicator when you are in a hurry, or have sunlight shining on
it.

A warning light for lights on wouldn't seem a good idea, would it?

Yawn. Re-read the thread. Where did I say to use a warning light?
take your time this time, because you've misread it every time,. so far.


I built my first one over 30 years ago, and built several for
family & friends, until they were available over the counter. It draws
zero power when not giving an alarm, and less current than a bright LED.

Do whatever you want. At this point in my life, I'm not going to
argue.

But you could try reading the question...

Yawn. Idiot. This group is going to pot because of lousy attitudes
like yours. If the OP doesn't understand a suggestion they can ask for
clarification. your race to the bottom doesn't do anyone any good, and
continues to make things worse. In case you haven't noticed, most of
the good techs have left the group, rather than put up with the dropping
IQs and sloppy service attitudes.

The question should have been asked in news:sci.electronics.basics
instead of here, then they are hit with attitude rather than help.

--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.
 
On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 10:16:49 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article <-cydnU4XL8meDyDVnZ2dnUVZ_uudnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article <-tednUhLfcF_-CDVnZ2dnUVZ_gCdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
I would use a 12 VDC Sonalert, or generic Piezo sounder with a
diode in series. Connect it between he headlight circuit, and the
inanition switch so that it makes noise when you shut off the
ignition, and still have the light on.

Have you actually read the question?

Yes. did you? The solution I posted is used in cars for the same
reason.

The OP obviously has little technical knowledge and you've said to connect
it between the headlamp circuit and ignition switch.


Because that is the accepted way to do it in the US. The two
switched sources provide the needed logic for free, even if you can't
see it. It works the way the OP asked, and will do what he wants without
spending a lot of money, or having reliability problems. After reading
a lot of your messages over the years it appears you are more interested
in pushing your way, and to hell with everyone else.


Wired the way I stated, you have +12 VDC on point 'A' when the
headlamp(s) are on. If the ignition switch is on, you also have +12 VDC
on point 'B' and no current will flow. Shut the ignition switch off, and
the voltage drops to zero, applying power to the enunciator. I'm sorry
that you either can't, or won't see this. Because of this, I would never
try to explain anything complex to you. You would be completely lost on
the equipment I last worked on, with over 20 processors, multiple signal
paths and interface systems you can't grasp. Or any of the TV stations I
built or maintained. Apparently attacking a problem with logic has been
supplanted with making wild assed guesses and accusations.


It is connected between to points that are at +12 VDC when the
engine is running, and the lights are on.

I know how a lights on alarm works.

if you shut off the engine,
the sounder goes off. they are used in cars, because you can miss a
small indicator when you are in a hurry, or have sunlight shining on
it.

A warning light for lights on wouldn't seem a good idea, would it?


Yawn. Re-read the thread. Where did I say to use a warning light?
take your time this time, because you've misread it every time,. so far.



I built my first one over 30 years ago, and built several for
family & friends, until they were available over the counter. It draws
zero power when not giving an alarm, and less current than a bright LED.

Do whatever you want. At this point in my life, I'm not going to
argue.

But you could try reading the question...


Yawn. Idiot. This group is going to pot because of lousy attitudes
like yours. If the OP doesn't understand a suggestion they can ask for
clarification. your race to the bottom doesn't do anyone any good, and
continues to make things worse. In case you haven't noticed, most of
the good techs have left the group, rather than put up with the dropping
IQs and sloppy service attitudes.

The question should have been asked in news:sci.electronics.basics
instead of here, then they are hit with attitude rather than help.
You have the perfect solution for the WRONG problem. The OP is
concerned about leaving the ignition switch on after the tractor runs
out of gas or stalls. He never mentioned headlights at all.
 
greenpjs wrote:
On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 10:16:49 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article <-cydnU4XL8meDyDVnZ2dnUVZ_uudnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article <-tednUhLfcF_-CDVnZ2dnUVZ_gCdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
I would use a 12 VDC Sonalert, or generic Piezo sounder with a
diode in series. Connect it between he headlight circuit, and the
inanition switch so that it makes noise when you shut off the
ignition, and still have the light on.

Have you actually read the question?

Yes. did you? The solution I posted is used in cars for the same
reason.

The OP obviously has little technical knowledge and you've said to connect
it between the headlamp circuit and ignition switch.


Because that is the accepted way to do it in the US. The two
switched sources provide the needed logic for free, even if you can't
see it. It works the way the OP asked, and will do what he wants without
spending a lot of money, or having reliability problems. After reading
a lot of your messages over the years it appears you are more interested
in pushing your way, and to hell with everyone else.


Wired the way I stated, you have +12 VDC on point 'A' when the
headlamp(s) are on. If the ignition switch is on, you also have +12 VDC
on point 'B' and no current will flow. Shut the ignition switch off, and
the voltage drops to zero, applying power to the enunciator. I'm sorry
that you either can't, or won't see this. Because of this, I would never
try to explain anything complex to you. You would be completely lost on
the equipment I last worked on, with over 20 processors, multiple signal
paths and interface systems you can't grasp. Or any of the TV stations I
built or maintained. Apparently attacking a problem with logic has been
supplanted with making wild assed guesses and accusations.


It is connected between to points that are at +12 VDC when the
engine is running, and the lights are on.

I know how a lights on alarm works.

if you shut off the engine,
the sounder goes off. they are used in cars, because you can miss a
small indicator when you are in a hurry, or have sunlight shining on
it.

A warning light for lights on wouldn't seem a good idea, would it?


Yawn. Re-read the thread. Where did I say to use a warning light?
take your time this time, because you've misread it every time,. so far.



I built my first one over 30 years ago, and built several for
family & friends, until they were available over the counter. It draws
zero power when not giving an alarm, and less current than a bright LED.

Do whatever you want. At this point in my life, I'm not going to
argue.

But you could try reading the question...


Yawn. Idiot. This group is going to pot because of lousy attitudes
like yours. If the OP doesn't understand a suggestion they can ask for
clarification. your race to the bottom doesn't do anyone any good, and
continues to make things worse. In case you haven't noticed, most of
the good techs have left the group, rather than put up with the dropping
IQs and sloppy service attitudes.

The question should have been asked in news:sci.electronics.basics
instead of here, then they are hit with attitude rather than help.

You have the perfect solution for the WRONG problem. The OP is
concerned about leaving the ignition switch on after the tractor runs
out of gas or stalls. He never mentioned headlights at all.

All the farm tractors I've seen (That were built after WW-I) have
headlights, and are on when the tractor is in use, for safety reasons.

Now, tell everyone how a LED and resistor connected to the ignition
switch will help if they don't notice the key is on, or aren't close
enough to hear it run out of fuel. Someone else mentioned the oil
pressure, but some tractors use a pressure gauge, instead of a switch.
The only fool proof method would be a contactor that is controlled by
sensing the lack of the voltage to the coil being pulsed. That would
require a detector, amplifier and coil driver, plus a contactor or relay
to open the power to everything except the starter switch and solenoid.
You would have to hold down a switch, or use a timer to let you start
it, adding more circuitry to fail on the tractor.

I am waiting for any USEFUL answer.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.
 
I wouldn't ever forget about the lights.

Brian's Military Jeeps, on the web.
cuhulin
 
On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 19:00:23 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk>
wrote:

In article <in7tb4pl4hplqcsf24u7ig97aoviqi3rbg@4ax.com>,
greenpjs <greenpjs@neo.rr.com> wrote:
You have the perfect solution for the WRONG problem. The OP is
concerned about leaving the ignition switch on after the tractor runs
out of gas or stalls. He never mentioned headlights at all.

Indeed.
Back to the Sonalert issue that came up on this thread a few days ago. I was
browsing the BG Micro web site just now and came across a couple of the panel
mount Sonalerts for less than $3.00 US each. Both will operate on 12 volts; one
emits a continuous tone, the other pulsates.
http://www.bgmicro.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=9098
and
http://www.bgmicro.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=9097

--
Dave M

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!
 
On Wednesday, September 3, 2008 at 10:29:31 AM UTC-4, greenpjs wrote:
On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 10:16:49 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article <-cydnU4XL8meDyDVnZ2dnUVZ_uudnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article <-tednUhLfcF_-CDVnZ2dnUVZ_gCdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
I would use a 12 VDC Sonalert, or generic Piezo sounder with a
diode in series. Connect it between he headlight circuit, and the
inanition switch so that it makes noise when you shut off the
ignition, and still have the light on.

Have you actually read the question?

Yes. did you? The solution I posted is used in cars for the same
reason.

The OP obviously has little technical knowledge and you've said to connect
it between the headlamp circuit and ignition switch.


Because that is the accepted way to do it in the US. The two
switched sources provide the needed logic for free, even if you can't
see it. It works the way the OP asked, and will do what he wants without
spending a lot of money, or having reliability problems. After reading
a lot of your messages over the years it appears you are more interested
in pushing your way, and to hell with everyone else.


Wired the way I stated, you have +12 VDC on point 'A' when the
headlamp(s) are on. If the ignition switch is on, you also have +12 VDC
on point 'B' and no current will flow. Shut the ignition switch off, and
the voltage drops to zero, applying power to the enunciator. I'm sorry
that you either can't, or won't see this. Because of this, I would never
try to explain anything complex to you. You would be completely lost on
the equipment I last worked on, with over 20 processors, multiple signal
paths and interface systems you can't grasp. Or any of the TV stations I
built or maintained. Apparently attacking a problem with logic has been
supplanted with making wild assed guesses and accusations.


It is connected between to points that are at +12 VDC when the
engine is running, and the lights are on.

I know how a lights on alarm works.

if you shut off the engine,
the sounder goes off. they are used in cars, because you can miss a
small indicator when you are in a hurry, or have sunlight shining on
it.

A warning light for lights on wouldn't seem a good idea, would it?


Yawn. Re-read the thread. Where did I say to use a warning light?
take your time this time, because you've misread it every time,. so far.



I built my first one over 30 years ago, and built several for
family & friends, until they were available over the counter. It draws
zero power when not giving an alarm, and less current than a bright LED.

Do whatever you want. At this point in my life, I'm not going to
argue.

But you could try reading the question...


Yawn. Idiot. This group is going to pot because of lousy attitudes
like yours. If the OP doesn't understand a suggestion they can ask for
clarification. your race to the bottom doesn't do anyone any good, and
continues to make things worse. In case you haven't noticed, most of
the good techs have left the group, rather than put up with the dropping
IQs and sloppy service attitudes.

The question should have been asked in news:sci.electronics.basics
instead of here, then they are hit with attitude rather than help.

You have the perfect solution for the WRONG problem. The OP is
concerned about leaving the ignition switch on after the tractor runs
out of gas or stalls. He never mentioned headlights at all.

I've seen more and more LED headlights out on the road with 18-wheelers. Its like several LED bulbs are packaged into each separate headlight.
 
Maybe things have changed in the last 11 years.
I've seen more and more LED headlights out on the road with 18-wheelers. Its like several LED bulbs are packaged into each separate headlight.
 

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