Treadmill repair and pleasing the wife ...

M

M. G. Devour

Guest
Hello,

My wife's treadmill has died. It started popping the house circuit breaker
occasionally, then finally let go in a massive stinkbomb as an inductor in
series with one of the motor leads got hot enough to fry. Now it'll blow the
15A breaker within a half a minute under load, though it'll run the belt
alone just fine. The rest of the the controls are still working normally.

It's an old Roadmaster Vitamaster from the early to mid-90's. I've browsed
every thread on "treadmills" in this newsgroup, so I see a few of the things
I need to check to see why it's drawing too much, like motor brushes,
circuit board solder joints, bearings and bushings, belt lube, belt wear and
so on... If I'm going to repair this thing, though, I'm going to have to
replace this choke. Roadmaster is defunct, of course, so I doubt there's a
handy 800 number to call. <sigh>

The motor is a 90V, 15A, 4800rpm, permanent magnet DC motor. It's driven
from a small control board which boasts a bank of 5 SCR's and a handful of
other components. This coil connects in series with the red wire to the
motor, while the black wire connects directly to the control board.

The inductor looks like a standard small filament transformer, about 3" w x
2 1/2" h x 2 1/4 d, and weighs less than a pound after all the smoke leaked
out! <grin>

The only label on the stupid thing is a little white sticker with some faint
dot-matrix print on it:

755C1
E1A-17-9242
327 B3 Mexico

If somebody can point me to a direct replacement, fine, though I doubt it's
anything so critical that I can't use a substitute. In fact, a slightly
higher rated unit might be more robust, once I make sure the rest of the
machine is okay.

My guess is that the coil is serving as a choke to smooth the spikes from
the chopper circuit? Correct?

It's clearly carrying the entire current load of the motor, so I'd need
something rated for at least 15 A, but what sort of inductance value would
be appropriate?

Who makes and sells such devices? What do you call them? I haven't found
anything obvious at Newark, RS Electronics, or Grainger, though I'm not
completely sure of what I'm looking for...

Suggestions?

Little repair jobs like this is one way I earn my dear bride's gratitude.
Since the treadmill is the first piece of exercise equipment either of us
has ever *really* used, I need to make sure we have one that works. If I can
save us from having to drop $700 to $1500 (or more) on a new one -- even for
a few months -- it'd be *really* popular with you-know-who.

Thanks, all.

Mike D.
 
Small correction to my previous post. The inductor weighs about 3.5 pounds,
as opposed to under 1 pound. I somehow got a false reading on the postage
scale. <sigh>

Thanks,

Mike D.
 
First you need to determine if the motor is OK. You could try
running it on rectified AC via a Variac to see if it will run for
an extended time without overheating under load.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
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| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.


"M. G. Devour" <mdevour@eskimo.com> writes:

Hello,

My wife's treadmill has died. It started popping the house circuit breaker
occasionally, then finally let go in a massive stinkbomb as an inductor in
series with one of the motor leads got hot enough to fry. Now it'll blow the
15A breaker within a half a minute under load, though it'll run the belt
alone just fine. The rest of the the controls are still working normally.

It's an old Roadmaster Vitamaster from the early to mid-90's. I've browsed
every thread on "treadmills" in this newsgroup, so I see a few of the things
I need to check to see why it's drawing too much, like motor brushes,
circuit board solder joints, bearings and bushings, belt lube, belt wear and
so on... If I'm going to repair this thing, though, I'm going to have to
replace this choke. Roadmaster is defunct, of course, so I doubt there's a
handy 800 number to call. <sigh

The motor is a 90V, 15A, 4800rpm, permanent magnet DC motor. It's driven
from a small control board which boasts a bank of 5 SCR's and a handful of
other components. This coil connects in series with the red wire to the
motor, while the black wire connects directly to the control board.

The inductor looks like a standard small filament transformer, about 3" w x
2 1/2" h x 2 1/4 d, and weighs less than a pound after all the smoke leaked
out! <grin

The only label on the stupid thing is a little white sticker with some faint
dot-matrix print on it:

755C1
E1A-17-9242
327 B3 Mexico

If somebody can point me to a direct replacement, fine, though I doubt it's
anything so critical that I can't use a substitute. In fact, a slightly
higher rated unit might be more robust, once I make sure the rest of the
machine is okay.

My guess is that the coil is serving as a choke to smooth the spikes from
the chopper circuit? Correct?

It's clearly carrying the entire current load of the motor, so I'd need
something rated for at least 15 A, but what sort of inductance value would
be appropriate?

Who makes and sells such devices? What do you call them? I haven't found
anything obvious at Newark, RS Electronics, or Grainger, though I'm not
completely sure of what I'm looking for...

Suggestions?

Little repair jobs like this is one way I earn my dear bride's gratitude.
Since the treadmill is the first piece of exercise equipment either of us
has ever *really* used, I need to make sure we have one that works. If I can
save us from having to drop $700 to $1500 (or more) on a new one -- even for
a few months -- it'd be *really* popular with you-know-who.

Thanks, all.

Mike D.
 
Sam Goldwasser writes:
First you need to determine if the motor is OK. You could try
running it on rectified AC via a Variac to see if it will run for
an extended time without overheating under load.
I have to take the motor out anyway to inspect the brushes and blow any dust
out of it, so that's certainly reasonable.

I've never had occasion to buy a clamp-on ammeter probe before this, but I'm
wondering if that would let me measure the current? I forget whether they
function with DC or only with AC. Stupid question probably, but any excuse
to buy a new tool is worth looking into. <grin>

Otherwise a low value shunt resistor and DVM or an appropriately ranged
analog panel meter ought to work. I ought to have one in the junk cabinet.

The motor itself runs and runs and never shuts down on its own. But the real
question is if it has a shorted winding or two that's causing excessive
current draw, thus damaging other components. If not, then I have to look
for drag in the mechanicals of the motor and the rest of the treadmill.

Thanks,

Mike D.
 
"M. G. Devour" <mdevour@eskimo.com> writes:

Sam Goldwasser writes:
First you need to determine if the motor is OK. You could try
running it on rectified AC via a Variac to see if it will run for
an extended time without overheating under load.

I have to take the motor out anyway to inspect the brushes and blow any dust
out of it, so that's certainly reasonable.

I've never had occasion to buy a clamp-on ammeter probe before this, but I'm
wondering if that would let me measure the current? I forget whether they
function with DC or only with AC. Stupid question probably, but any excuse
to buy a new tool is worth looking into. <grin

Otherwise a low value shunt resistor and DVM or an appropriately ranged
analog panel meter ought to work. I ought to have one in the junk cabinet.
More likely. :)

The motor itself runs and runs and never shuts down on its own. But the real
question is if it has a shorted winding or two that's causing excessive
current draw, thus damaging other components. If not, then I have to look
for drag in the mechanicals of the motor and the rest of the treadmill.
If it runs and runs and runs without getting hot, it's probably OK.
A shorted winding would show smoke pretty quickly.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.
 
M. G. Devour wrote:

Sam Goldwasser writes:
First you need to determine if the motor is OK. You could try
running it on rectified AC via a Variac to see if it will run for
an extended time without overheating under load.

I have to take the motor out anyway to inspect the brushes and blow any
dust out of it, so that's certainly reasonable.

I've never had occasion to buy a clamp-on ammeter probe before this, but
I'm wondering if that would let me measure the current? I forget whether
they function with DC or only with AC. Stupid question probably, but any
excuse to buy a new tool is worth looking into. <grin
I expect it'd work about as well as any other DC transformer... :)

Otherwise a low value shunt resistor and DVM or an appropriately ranged
analog panel meter ought to work. I ought to have one in the junk cabinet.
Don't overlook using existing wiring -- for nontrivial currents that may
often be enough low resistance to let you see a drop with a DVM and
estimate the current.
 
"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message

First you need to determine if the motor is OK. You could try
running it on rectified AC via a Variac to see if it will run for
an extended time without overheating under load.
I thought all treadmills had DC motors...
 
"Davenport" <nowhere@nospam.net> writes:

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message

First you need to determine if the motor is OK. You could try
running it on rectified AC via a Variac to see if it will run for
an extended time without overheating under load.

I thought all treadmills had DC motors...
Rectified AC = DC. :)

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.
 
Following up with the resolution (?) of this problem...

My wife's treadmill has died. It started popping the house circuit breaker
occasionally, then finally let go in a massive stinkbomb as an inductor in
series with one of the motor leads got hot enough to fry. Now it'll blow
the
15A breaker within a half a minute under load, though it'll run the belt
alone just fine. ...
The inductor looks like a standard small filament transformer, about 3" w
x
2 1/2" h x 2 1/4 d, and weighs [about 4 pounds] ...
The original inductor was seriously heat damaged, but still continuous. It
measured ~.7 mH with a friend's inductance meter, so that set a reasonable
minimum value for the replacement.

I settled on a 2.5 mH, 20A reactor, part number 195E20, from Hammond
Manufacturing. It's about 50% larger and twice the weight of the old one.

I ordered it through Mouser Electronics and had it drop-shipped directly
from Hammond. The price was about $50 plus shipping. It arrived in 3
business days. Nobody seems to carry the 195 series in inventory outside the
factory, though plenty of Hammond's other products are widely available from
stock.

I mounted it to the bottom pan next to where the old one was originally
hung, tapped into the ground wire from the motor to ground the frame, and
used the leads from the old choke to attach to the screw terminals of the
new with a couple of ring terminals.

Tonight was the acid test: The wife got 26 minutes into her 30 minute walk
at a pretty fast setting before the breaker in the basement tripped. I took
the cover off right away so I could see what's getting hot. The new inductor
is only comfortably warm, the motor hotter, though you can still hold your
hand on it. Everything seems fine.

I still have to do what I can to make sure there's no excessive friction
anywhere in the machine, but we may have to accept the fact that it's a 15A
rated appliance running on a 15A circuit, and it's damned well going to pull
15A or a little more when she gets on and starts pushing it hard for a long
time. As near as I can tell, the inductor was the weak link and was all that
needed replacing. Plugged into a 20A circuit, I suspect we'd never even
notice a problem.

It seems like this repair will keep the treadmill going for a while at
least, so mission accomplished.

Mike D.
 
I still have to do what I can to make sure there's no excessive friction
anywhere in the machine, but we may have to accept the fact that it's a
15A
rated appliance running on a 15A circuit, and it's damned well going to
pull
15A or a little more when she gets on and starts pushing it hard for a
long
time. As near as I can tell, the inductor was the weak link and was all
that
needed replacing. Plugged into a 20A circuit, I suspect we'd never even
notice a problem.

It seems like this repair will keep the treadmill going for a while at
least, so mission accomplished.

Mike D.
Measure the current that it's drawing, that 15A rating is the maximum draw
aside from a brief surge when you turn it on, I'd expect a run current of
around half that. The outlet it's plugged into is only rated for 15A unless
it has a slot for a horizontal prong so if the treadmill is drawing more
than that there's definitly a problem. You beefed up the inductor, something
else will now become the weak link.
 

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