A
Arno Wagner
Guest
In comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.storage Don Kirkman <donsno2@wavecable.com> wrote:
Arno
Yes. To people that do not have a clue.
Arno
A
Arno Wagner
Guest
In comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.storage Erica Eshoo <evesunflor@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
One problem is that PSUs (unless dying ones) supply far, far more
power than a HDD needs to start.
to surfaces. With better coating this has not been an issue for a
decade or two.
Typically not a problem.
cannot be corrected or worked around with software anymore.
Arno
No. While the idea is sound, the numbers and other facts are not.
One problem is that PSUs (unless dying ones) supply far, far more
power than a HDD needs to start.
Thet is the next problem. Historically HDDs used to have heads stick
to surfaces. With better coating this has not been an issue for a
decade or two.
Standard, although it overloads the USB port on drive startup.
Typically not a problem.
I don't think you can. From a certain point one, hardware defects
cannot be corrected or worked around with software anymore.
Arno
S
student
Guest
On 27 Out, 11:06, techie <hotkid...@yahoo.com> wrote:
could you send me the solution off all books about Thermodynamics??
i really need it
thank you
luistralha@gmail.com
could you send me the solution off all books about Thermodynamics??
i really need it
thank you
luistralha@gmail.com
R
Rick Blaine
Guest
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
between the heater at the cold/hot ports, those are thermal breaks - not check
valves. They reduce the heat loss from the tank into the pipes when the water is
not being used.
A check valve is significantly larger than a nipple and would typically only be
be found after the main valve and before the heater.
If you are talking about the galvanized nipples with blue plastic flaps that go
between the heater at the cold/hot ports, those are thermal breaks - not check
valves. They reduce the heat loss from the tank into the pipes when the water is
not being used.
A check valve is significantly larger than a nipple and would typically only be
be found after the main valve and before the heater.
M
Michael A. Terrell
Guest
Peabody wrote:
http://search.hp.com/query.html?cc=us&lang=en&qt=4470&la=en
--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
http://search.hp.com/query.html?cc=us&lang=en&qt=4470&la=en
--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
B
Barry Minchey
Guest
Thanks David! Is that an adjustment on the flyback?
On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 14:41:46 -0600, "David" <someone@some-where.com>
wrote:
On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 14:41:46 -0600, "David" <someone@some-where.com>
wrote:
D
David
Guest
"Barry Minchey" <minchey@gmpexpress.net> wrote in message
news:4738c23a.6755333@news.gmpexpress.net...
adjustment on the CRT socket board. I do not recall which
one was on this model.
David
news:4738c23a.6755333@news.gmpexpress.net...
Usually, yes (the lower one). Some Sony sets had the G2
adjustment on the CRT socket board. I do not recall which
one was on this model.
David
C
Charlie Bress
Guest
Check out the real story at
http://www.snopes.com/politics/immigration/socialsecurity.asp
"ANovice" <anywhere@nospam.comcast.net> wrote in message
news
LudnYVRWZRE4qXanZ2dnUVZ_tSknZ2d@comcast.com...
http://www.snopes.com/politics/immigration/socialsecurity.asp
"ANovice" <anywhere@nospam.comcast.net> wrote in message
news
LudnYVRWZRE4qXanZ2dnUVZ_tSknZ2d@comcast.com...
J
James Sweet
Guest
"David" <someone@some-where.com> wrote in message
news:fU2_i.8031$ww2.8011@newssvr19.news.prodigy.net...
sure that's the problem. When I've seen this happen, the picture will flash
for a while and then finally come on, if it didn't do the flashing thing,
suspect something else.
news:fU2_i.8031$ww2.8011@newssvr19.news.prodigy.net...
That's certainly possible, but before condemning the CRT it's worth making
sure that's the problem. When I've seen this happen, the picture will flash
for a while and then finally come on, if it didn't do the flashing thing,
suspect something else.
B
Barry Minchey
Guest
It does flash on and off before it finally comes on. What have you
found when you had that problem?
On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 22:41:40 GMT, "James Sweet"
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:
found when you had that problem?
On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 22:41:40 GMT, "James Sweet"
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:
J
James Sweet
Guest
"Barry Minchey" <minchey@gmpexpress.net> wrote in message
news:4739e4b1.15577949@news.gmpexpress.net...
Just what the other guy said, weak CRT causing the AKB circuit to blank the
picture.
news:4739e4b1.15577949@news.gmpexpress.net...
Just what the other guy said, weak CRT causing the AKB circuit to blank the
picture.
B
Barry Minchey
Guest
I found the G2 on the board attached to the CRT. When I dial it up the
flickering begins sooner than before. It certainly isn't acceptable. I
saw a post from 1999 from a David which may have been you.
"Here is a bit of information regarding the video blanking at turn on
in Sony tv
sets that use the IK detect line.
With the tv set in a full cold start, look at the cathodes of all
three of the
guns with the oscilloscope. It will take some work with the scope
settings to see
the blanking pulses during the vertical retrace time.
Take a good look at the pulses, they all 3 should be fairly close to
the same P-P
value, usually between 50 and 150 volts. If one of them is much
smaller or much
larger than the other 2 the crt guns are getting very weak and way out
of balance
causing the blanking problem at turn on. At this point the only
proper fix is to
replace the picture tube.
In about 50% of the cases a newer low current crt rejuve only on the
bad gun can
sometimes rebalance the guns for better AKB performance.
In some other cases a slight increase in the g2 voltage will allow a
better turn
on and gray scale.
We have seen a lot of older Sony tv sets coming in with the same
symptom as he
described it with the above troubleshooting and failure result.
Some older sets also had bad solder connections to all of the voltage
regulators
in the center of the main circuit board.
The ones with the stand up power supply on the side of the chassis
have a special
capacitor 1000uf16v that goes bad and can cause poor power supply
regulation.
David".
I hate to toss out what was a very nice set. Do you have any thought
that the power supply board could be at fault? I could certainly
replace the capacitor mentioned above if it would do any good. I
apologize, I'm still in denial.
Barry
On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 15:40:55 -0600, "David" <someone@some-where.com>
wrote:
flickering begins sooner than before. It certainly isn't acceptable. I
saw a post from 1999 from a David which may have been you.
"Here is a bit of information regarding the video blanking at turn on
in Sony tv
sets that use the IK detect line.
With the tv set in a full cold start, look at the cathodes of all
three of the
guns with the oscilloscope. It will take some work with the scope
settings to see
the blanking pulses during the vertical retrace time.
Take a good look at the pulses, they all 3 should be fairly close to
the same P-P
value, usually between 50 and 150 volts. If one of them is much
smaller or much
larger than the other 2 the crt guns are getting very weak and way out
of balance
causing the blanking problem at turn on. At this point the only
proper fix is to
replace the picture tube.
In about 50% of the cases a newer low current crt rejuve only on the
bad gun can
sometimes rebalance the guns for better AKB performance.
In some other cases a slight increase in the g2 voltage will allow a
better turn
on and gray scale.
We have seen a lot of older Sony tv sets coming in with the same
symptom as he
described it with the above troubleshooting and failure result.
Some older sets also had bad solder connections to all of the voltage
regulators
in the center of the main circuit board.
The ones with the stand up power supply on the side of the chassis
have a special
capacitor 1000uf16v that goes bad and can cause poor power supply
regulation.
David".
I hate to toss out what was a very nice set. Do you have any thought
that the power supply board could be at fault? I could certainly
replace the capacitor mentioned above if it would do any good. I
apologize, I'm still in denial.
Barry
On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 15:40:55 -0600, "David" <someone@some-where.com>
wrote:
J
James Sweet
Guest
You could measure the output of the power supply, but the tube is almost
certainly shot. Perhaps you could find a lightning damaged or otherwise
defective set with a good tube? If you're in the Seattle area I have a dead
27" Sony console with a good tube you can have but shipping is not
practical.
B
b
Guest
On Nov 12, 9:24 pm, minc...@gmpexpress.net (Barry Minchey) wrote:
-B
how old it this tv?
-B
J
Jerry G.
Guest
type of symptom, but that is very rare. When the CRT is very week, the
AKG circuits keep it biased off. In the case that the CRT is taking
very long to warm up to have enough emission, the AKG circuits will
keep it biased off until the emission is high enough.
At this point, I would be looking for a new TV set.
Jerry G.
======
On Nov 12, 3:24 pm, minc...@gmpexpress.net (Barry Minchey) wrote:
H
hallerb@aol.com
Guest
On Feb 19, 6:30�am, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters.net> wrote:
the plastic valves are fine if they get just ONE use, to drain the
tank at end of use.......
leave all the faucets OFF while changing valves.
the plastic valves are fine if they get just ONE use, to drain the
tank at end of use.......
Guest
On Feb 19, 6:30 am, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters.net> wrote:
Also, before draining the tank to remove sediment or to work on it,
it's a good idea to shut the gas off a long time before you're going
to do the work. That way, you can use up most of the hot water in
the tank through normal use, instead of wasting it.
Also, before draining the tank to remove sediment or to work on it,
it's a good idea to shut the gas off a long time before you're going
to do the work. That way, you can use up most of the hot water in
the tank through normal use, instead of wasting it.
D
David
Guest
"Barry Minchey" <minchey@gmpexpress.net> wrote in message
news:473af3f0.19481372@news.gmpexpress.net...
I did not write the archived post, but it appears largely
accurate.
I assume you do not have a schematic of this set, but there
is one more thing you can try. You may have low heater
voltage on the CRT, but first you have to determine how the
CRT filament voltage is supplied. A simple voltmeter can not
be used to measure the filament voltage. These sets get that
voltage from a winding on the horizontal output transformer.
There are two cases: 1) the winding directly feeds the high
frequency AC to the filament [usually through a low
resistance voltage dropping resistor of 2 - 5 ohms], or 2)
the voltage is rectified and filtered with a capacitor and
DC is fed to the filament [again possibly through a dropping
resistor]. If yours is AC fed, Bridge the dropping resistor
with one of equal value and see if that helps. If so, you
can leave the resistor bridged and coax a bit more life out
of the set. If it is DC fed, check the filter capacitor for
high ESR or just replace it. If that helps your are done, if
not, try bridging the dropping resistor as above.
David
news:473af3f0.19481372@news.gmpexpress.net...
Hello Berry,
I did not write the archived post, but it appears largely
accurate.
I assume you do not have a schematic of this set, but there
is one more thing you can try. You may have low heater
voltage on the CRT, but first you have to determine how the
CRT filament voltage is supplied. A simple voltmeter can not
be used to measure the filament voltage. These sets get that
voltage from a winding on the horizontal output transformer.
There are two cases: 1) the winding directly feeds the high
frequency AC to the filament [usually through a low
resistance voltage dropping resistor of 2 - 5 ohms], or 2)
the voltage is rectified and filtered with a capacitor and
DC is fed to the filament [again possibly through a dropping
resistor]. If yours is AC fed, Bridge the dropping resistor
with one of equal value and see if that helps. If so, you
can leave the resistor bridged and coax a bit more life out
of the set. If it is DC fed, check the filter capacitor for
high ESR or just replace it. If that helps your are done, if
not, try bridging the dropping resistor as above.
David
B
Barry Minchey
Guest
Thanks all!!!! I'm convinced.
On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 20:57:04 -0800, "Jerry G." <jerryg50@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 20:57:04 -0800, "Jerry G." <jerryg50@hotmail.com>
wrote:
N
Nate Nagel
Guest
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator wrote:
the tank prior to replacing. I did just this on two heaters in my
basement last year and I was unable to completely drain them (the WH
drains are lower than any drain in the house) I had a mess to clean up
after each one, and lots of sediment came spewing out too. It was
especially fun as both were so close to the floor (wh's not on stands)
that I had to leave the new valves open while starting the threads.
Assembling the whole mess on the bench and installing the garden hose
cap is highly recommended.
There will be less water coming out than you experienced with your old
tank because of the vacuum of having all the valves in the house shut,
but it'll still come out eventually.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
Their idea of "a little" water is "about 5-10 gallons." I would drain
the tank prior to replacing. I did just this on two heaters in my
basement last year and I was unable to completely drain them (the WH
drains are lower than any drain in the house) I had a mess to clean up
after each one, and lots of sediment came spewing out too. It was
especially fun as both were so close to the floor (wh's not on stands)
that I had to leave the new valves open while starting the threads.
Assembling the whole mess on the bench and installing the garden hose
cap is highly recommended.
There will be less water coming out than you experienced with your old
tank because of the vacuum of having all the valves in the house shut,
but it'll still come out eventually.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel