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My Toshiba sd-k600 DVD player sound is dead (analog) and
the front panel display is dead. Sams doesn't have a schematic
and I want to fix it. What to do? It pisses me off to have to
trash a 2 year old $80 component.
Bruce
Replace electrolytic capacitors C928 and C929 with new capacitors that areMy Toshiba sd-k600 DVD player sound is dead (analog) and
the front panel display is dead. Sams doesn't have a schematic
and I want to fix it. What to do? It pisses me off to have to
trash a 2 year old $80 component.
My Toshiba sd-k600 DVD player sound is dead (analog) and
the front panel display is dead. Sams doesn't have a schematic
and I want to fix it. What to do? It pisses me off to have to
trash a 2 year old $80 component.
Replace electrolytic capacitors C928 and C929 with new capacitors that are
rated at 100 microfarads with at least 35 volts tolerance. C928 and C929
are
close to the socket which connects the power supply to the mainboard. The
capacitors should still be available at your local RadioShack.
When installing the new capacitors, observe correct polarity.
The old parts will have 100 microfarad capacity but only a tolerance of 16
volts. Going with a higher voltage cap means that it will run cooler with
a
lower likelihood of overvoltage failure. - Reinhart
Thanks for the reply, but:
It only takes one bad cap in the secondary side of a VCR switching mode power1. I don't see how 2 failed caps can cause both display and audio failure
without there being
other component failures involved (unless I am incredibly lucky).
If you were to replace a capacitor with a filtering range of 1000 microfarads2. Going to a higher voltage cap cannot possibly make anything run cooler.
It can
eliminate failure, but not reduce temperature
on the main board, that had a 25 ohm leakage. This bad cap caused a"LASERandDVDfan" <laseranddvdfan@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030720174653.02911.00000218@mb-m19.aol.com...
My Toshiba sd-k600 DVD player sound is dead (analog) and
the front panel display is dead. Sams doesn't have a schematic
and I want to fix it. What to do? It pisses me off to have to
trash a 2 year old $80 component.
Replace electrolytic capacitors C928 and C929 with new capacitors that are
rated at 100 microfarads with at least 35 volts tolerance. C928 and C929
are
close to the socket which connects the power supply to the mainboard. The
capacitors should still be available at your local RadioShack.
When installing the new capacitors, observe correct polarity.
The old parts will have 100 microfarad capacity but only a tolerance of 16
volts. Going with a higher voltage cap means that it will run cooler with
a
lower likelihood of overvoltage failure. - Reinhart
Thanks for the reply, but:
1. I don't see how 2 failed caps can cause both display and audio failure
without there being
other component failures involved (unless I am incredibly lucky).
2. Going to a higher voltage cap cannot possibly make anything run cooler.
It can
eliminate failure, but not reduce temperature. Technically, I'd expect it to
increase temperature since higher voltage parts are likely to have higher
ESR.
There *ARE* two such capacitors on the board. What voltage should appear
across them,
and what do they do. Are they power supply bypass caps, or coupling caps?
Do you know how I can get a schematic? I can *EASILY* repair almost
*ANYTHING* if I have a
schematic and components are available.
Thanks
I fixed my SD-1700 Toshiba with the replacement of only one capacitor,
Are they power bypass caps? If so, can I just clip them out and see if that1. I don't see how 2 failed caps can cause both display and audio
failure
without there being
other component failures involved (unless I am incredibly lucky).
It only takes one bad cap in the secondary side of a VCR switching mode
power
supply to cause a plethora of operational problems. I refer you to
Panasonic
VCRs and their OEM equivalents as an example.
Why would it be any different in a DVD player?
In addition to simple problems causing big headaches, take televisions.
TV
sets do develop cold solder joints after years of service. Cold solder
joints
are simply solder joints that become intermittent. They get intermittent
by
developing cracks in the joint due to thermal expansion and contraction of
the
mainboard. Expansion when the set gets warm, contraction when it cools
down.
This expansion and contraction places stress on the solder joints which
eventually causes them to fail in keeping the part mounted on the board
and
connected within their designated circuit. Sometimes, this causes minor
problems with the vertical drive circuit (bright line in the middle of the
screen), while other times it can cause a catastrophic failure of the
horizontal drive circuit (shorted flyback, blown HOT, blown diodes and
zeners,
etc.).
Besides, the symptoms you describe indicate a problem with your particular
Toshiba that is actually very commonplace with that particular generation.
Replacing caps C928 and C929 usually does the trick in restoring normal
operation. Caps that go bad on C928 and C929 will do two things.
1. It will make your audio sound weak, if it's still there.
2. It may cause the front LED display on the player to not function.
Try the solution. I've already fixed quite a few Toshiba DVD players
having
the same symptoms by merely replacing those two indicated capacitors, so
my
information does come from experience.
As a matter of fact, another poster had the same problem with his Toshiba
DVD
player and he replaced the caps and got it working again. Try a Google
search
for the thread.
2. Going to a higher voltage cap cannot possibly make anything run
cooler.
It can
eliminate failure, but not reduce temperature
If you were to replace a capacitor with a filtering range of 1000
microfarads
at 50 volts with a capacitor of the same range but only 10 volts
tolerance,
what do you think will happen to that cap? It will heat up and eventually
fail.
In the case of the capacitors in the Toshiba, the failure may be caused by
sudden, but brief increases in voltage beyond the tolerances of the
original
caps, probably caused when you get the player out of stand-by. This can
cause
internal failure in the long run, so going with a higher tolerance cap
helps to
prevent such a failure from happening in the first place.
As a tennis shoe commercial once said (and I am aware that it's Nike),
"just do
it." - Reinhart
I think they might be. Hard to tell without a schematic. However, it would beAre they power bypass caps? If so, can I just clip them out and see if that
causes sound to come back? (I realize there may be some additional noise).
Are they power bypass caps? If so, can I just clip them out and see if
that
causes sound to come back? (I realize there may be some additional
noise).
I think they might be. Hard to tell without a schematic. However, it
would be
safe to just replace the caps. I mean, they won't set you back too
uch. -
Reinhart
That's okay. Glad to hear that you got your player working again! - ReinhartHey --- it worked. Thanks for the help, and sorry for questioning you!!