Toaster Oven Element

J

Jimbo

Guest
I'm looking for an element for a toaster oven and none of the usual
appliance parts places have it. It's a straight elelement about 12
inches long marked 60V/400W with thread posts on each end. Can anyone
suggest a source either online or otherwise? I'm in Toronto.

Thanks.

J.
 
On Jul 6, 5:02 pm, Jimbo <jfro...@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm looking for an element for a toaster oven and none of the usual
appliance parts places have it.  It's a straight elelement about 12
inches long marked 60V/400W with thread posts on each end.  Can anyone
suggest a source either online or otherwise?  I'm in Toronto.

Thanks.

J.
Click to expand...
Anybody? Otherwise, I'm going to have to dump it :(
 
On Jul 6, 5:02 pm, Jimbo <jfro...@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm looking for an element for a toaster oven and none of the usual
appliance parts places have it.  It's a straight elelement about 12
inches long marked 60V/400W with thread posts on each end.  Can anyone
suggest a source either online or otherwise?  I'm in Toronto.

Thanks.

J.
Click to expand...
You failed to mention the manufacture and model.

If you open the toaster oven, it is very likely that element is
connected in its assembly by arc-weilding, and not by crimp connection
or solder connection right at its immediate connection point. This is
because the temperature at its direct connection point is much too hot
for soldering or for crimp connecting.

Because the elements are a factory arc-welded assembly, this is
something that most service centers are not equiped to do. The cost
for the work tools, parts distribution, inventories, and the time
would not be worth it for a small appliance. When my toaster oven
fails, I bring it to the re-cycling depot near to my place. Maybe the
next car I buy, the metal in its body was a stove or a toaster oven!

Another interesting thing to consider, is that each of the elements
for a North American appliance are rated at 60 Volts. In a 4 element
toastar oven, they would then put them in 2 groups that are in series
to give a rating of 120 Volts. This would be in each section (lower
and upper) in order to have 4 elements in total. Each section group is
rated for 120 Volts.

A single element cannot be changed even if elements were available and
you were able to do the arc-welding work to change them. As the
elements are used, over time their resistance will change slightly. If
a new one is added, there will no longer be an exact ballance of the
resistance between the two elements. The one of the higher resistance
would burn out faster. As these elements age, their resistance may not
change linearly in relation to each other, and therefore one of the
elements will burn out before the other.

It's time to buy a new toaster!!!


Jerry G.
 
"Jerry G." <jerryg50@hotmail.com> writes:

On Jul 6, 5:02 pm, Jimbo <jfro...@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm looking for an element for a toaster oven and none of the usual
appliance parts places have it.  It's a straight elelement about 12
inches long marked 60V/400W with thread posts on each end.  Can anyone
suggest a source either online or otherwise?  I'm in Toronto.

Thanks.

J.

You failed to mention the manufacture and model.

If you open the toaster oven, it is very likely that element is
connected in its assembly by arc-weilding, and not by crimp connection
or solder connection right at its immediate connection point. This is
because the temperature at its direct connection point is much too hot
for soldering or for crimp connecting.

Because the elements are a factory arc-welded assembly, this is
something that most service centers are not equiped to do. The cost
for the work tools, parts distribution, inventories, and the time
would not be worth it for a small appliance. When my toaster oven
fails, I bring it to the re-cycling depot near to my place. Maybe the
next car I buy, the metal in its body was a stove or a toaster oven!

Another interesting thing to consider, is that each of the elements
for a North American appliance are rated at 60 Volts. In a 4 element
toastar oven, they would then put them in 2 groups that are in series
to give a rating of 120 Volts. This would be in each section (lower
and upper) in order to have 4 elements in total. Each section group is
rated for 120 Volts.

A single element cannot be changed even if elements were available and
you were able to do the arc-welding work to change them. As the
elements are used, over time their resistance will change slightly. If
a new one is added, there will no longer be an exact ballance of the
resistance between the two elements. The one of the higher resistance
would burn out faster. As these elements age, their resistance may not
change linearly in relation to each other, and therefore one of the
elements will burn out before the other.

It's time to buy a new toaster!!!

Jerry G.
Click to expand...
Probably, but...

If the resistance of the other element in the pair has increased (which is
what I'd expect to happen), then the total resistance will be higher and
while there may be some imbalance in the power of the two elements, neither
will see more power than it did originally. However, the original (not
replaced) one will likely be closer to end-of-life so might as well
replace both.

As to welding, I've used screws, nuts, and washers in a pinch. Your
mileage may vary.

--
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Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
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I soldered a welded lead that had broken loose in a GE toaster, and it
continued to work for some years. (The toaster eventually failed from a
jammed power solenoid.) However, I agree that soldered connections are
"iffy", and potentially (no joke intended) dangerous.
 
On Jul 12, 6:00 am, "Jerry G." <jerry...@hotmail.com> wrote:
On Jul 6, 5:02 pm, Jimbo <jfro...@gmail.com> wrote:

I'm looking for an element for a toaster oven and none of the usual
appliance parts places have it.  It's a straight elelement about 12
inches long marked 60V/400W with thread posts on each end.  Can anyone
suggest a source either online or otherwise?  I'm in Toronto.

Thanks.

J.

You failed to mention the manufacture and model.

If you open the toaster oven, it is very likely that element is
connected in its assembly by arc-weilding, and not by crimp connection
or solder connection right at its immediate connection point. This is
because the temperature at its direct connection point is much too hot
for soldering or for crimp connecting.

Because the elements are a factory arc-welded assembly, this is
something that most service centers are not equiped to do. The cost
for the work tools, parts distribution, inventories, and the time
would not be worth it for a small appliance. When my toaster oven
fails, I bring it to the re-cycling depot near to my place. Maybe the
next car I buy, the metal in its body was a stove or a toaster oven!

Another interesting thing to consider, is that each of the elements
for a North American appliance are rated at 60 Volts. In a 4 element
toastar oven, they would then put them in 2 groups that are in series
to give a rating of 120 Volts. This would be in each section (lower
and upper) in order to have 4 elements in total. Each section group is
rated for 120 Volts.

A single element cannot be changed even if elements were available and
you were able to do the arc-welding work to change them.  As the
elements are used, over time their resistance will change slightly. If
a new one is added, there will no longer be an exact ballance of the
resistance between the two elements. The one of the higher resistance
would burn out faster. As these elements age, their resistance may not
change linearly in relation to each other, and therefore one of the
elements will burn out before the other.

It's time to buy a new toaster!!!

Jerry G.
Click to expand...
As I mentioned in my original post, the connections are screw
connections, hence the threaded piece at each end, so replacing the
element is very simple and straight forward. I also understand the
"pairing" of the elements as I did disassemble the unit before seeking
help in finding a source for the element. It was my intention to buy
and replace a pair.

Unfortunately, the problem appears to boil down to the nanny state
mentality whereby consumers are asked to replace things rather than
repair them. The excuse is the danger or the complexity but the
reality is that it is more profitable for the manufacturer when the
customer buys a new unit instead of repairing the old one.
 
On Jul 12, 8:50 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
I soldered a welded lead that had broken loose in a GE toaster, and it
continued to work for some years. (The toaster eventually failed from a
jammed power solenoid.) However, I agree that soldered connections are
"iffy", and potentially (no joke intended) dangerous.
Click to expand...
Over the years, I have repaired many appliances and, like you, have
used different techniques in different situations. Where possible, I
like to same with same connections but have used crimped and
mechanical connections to replace welded connections. The skills and
judgement are fairly obvious to someone who knows and understands them
but, of course, not to someone who doesn't. Does that mean we
shouldn't post here. I think not.

BTW, I still haven't found a source of these elements.
 
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