TIP: 1/4 inch socket with isolated switch/es

[N_Cook]

I'm getting rather tired of seeing band amp failures due to the use of these
flimsey domestic grade of amp headphone sockets. Even if you can get hold of
one off replacements, rather than minimum of 100 , what is the point of like
for like replacement if only 3 years of use, not abuse, leads to amp
failure.

Current one carried a negative rail for switching purposes so definitely
isolated switch action required.
Starting with a standard 2 way or 3 way chassis or pcb mount socket. For 1 2
or 3 isolated sockets and continued use of the 3 tip/ring/ground contacts to
an inserted jack.
Rough up mechanically the outer surface of the moving contact. Solder,
deliberately messily for later glue bonding, some highly flexible hookup
wire to the end of a moving contact at the switch contact end.
Open the contact and feed some 0.1mm or so plastic tape under and around the
moving contact and wire, bounded by the channel in the socket plastic body.
Blank off ends with blue tac or whatever and fill the channel with epoxy,
except a few mm at the hinge end. When cured bend back the locking tang at
the socket plastic and remove the moving contact and Dremmel/0.6mm grinding
disc, slice a slot,on the inner side of the moving contact metal, between
frog (as in brick frog shape) and the contact . Assuming it takes this
mechanical action, without breaking away, add a little more epoxy slightly
over the cut and also on and over the free end to beef up even more. Repeat
, if required on other 1 or 2 poles for more switches. Mount perhaps upside
down and wire into the pcb.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm

 

[N_Cook]

The plastic tape is just for shuttering, so remove of course, when epoxy is
cured

 

[Arfa Daily]

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:hlb0sk$cok$1@news.eternal-september.org...

I'm getting rather tired of seeing band amp failures due to the use of
these
flimsey domestic grade of amp headphone sockets. Even if you can get hold
of
one off replacements, rather than minimum of 100 , what is the point of
like
for like replacement if only 3 years of use, not abuse, leads to amp
failure.

Current one carried a negative rail for switching purposes so definitely
isolated switch action required.
Starting with a standard 2 way or 3 way chassis or pcb mount socket. For 1
2
or 3 isolated sockets and continued use of the 3 tip/ring/ground contacts
to
an inserted jack.
Rough up mechanically the outer surface of the moving contact. Solder,
deliberately messily for later glue bonding, some highly flexible hookup
wire to the end of a moving contact at the switch contact end.
Open the contact and feed some 0.1mm or so plastic tape under and around
the
moving contact and wire, bounded by the channel in the socket plastic
body.
Blank off ends with blue tac or whatever and fill the channel with epoxy,
except a few mm at the hinge end. When cured bend back the locking tang at
the socket plastic and remove the moving contact and Dremmel/0.6mm
grinding
disc, slice a slot,on the inner side of the moving contact metal, between
frog (as in brick frog shape) and the contact . Assuming it takes this
mechanical action, without breaking away, add a little more epoxy
slightly
over the cut and also on and over the free end to beef up even more.
Repeat
, if required on other 1 or 2 poles for more switches. Mount perhaps
upside
down and wire into the pcb.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm

Seems like an awful lot of work to replace a component that's going to last
another 3 years anyway. Most bands would be quite happy with that sort of
level of failure. Have you had this 'improved' socket version of yours in
use anywhere that you can monitor it, for longer than three years to see if
it actually does last better, and not suffer from some different mechanical
failure ?

Some 'original' open frame switched jacks in one-off prices here

http://www.watfordvalves.com/products.asp?id=6&man=86

Not necessarily exactly what you're talking about, but still good for
replacing dodgy Fender etc jacks

Arfa

 

[N_Cook]

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:d29en.2$rL6.1@newsfe02.ams2...

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:hlb0sk$cok$1@news.eternal-september.org...
I'm getting rather tired of seeing band amp failures due to the use of
these
flimsey domestic grade of amp headphone sockets. Even if you can get
hold
of
one off replacements, rather than minimum of 100 , what is the point of
like
for like replacement if only 3 years of use, not abuse, leads to amp
failure.

Current one carried a negative rail for switching purposes so definitely
isolated switch action required.
Starting with a standard 2 way or 3 way chassis or pcb mount socket. For
1
2
or 3 isolated sockets and continued use of the 3 tip/ring/ground
contacts
to
an inserted jack.
Rough up mechanically the outer surface of the moving contact. Solder,
deliberately messily for later glue bonding, some highly flexible hookup
wire to the end of a moving contact at the switch contact end.
Open the contact and feed some 0.1mm or so plastic tape under and around
the
moving contact and wire, bounded by the channel in the socket plastic
body.
Blank off ends with blue tac or whatever and fill the channel with
epoxy,
except a few mm at the hinge end. When cured bend back the locking tang
at
the socket plastic and remove the moving contact and Dremmel/0.6mm
grinding
disc, slice a slot,on the inner side of the moving contact metal,
between
frog (as in brick frog shape) and the contact . Assuming it takes this
mechanical action, without breaking away, add a little more epoxy
slightly
over the cut and also on and over the free end to beef up even more.
Repeat
, if required on other 1 or 2 poles for more switches. Mount perhaps
upside
down and wire into the pcb.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm




Seems like an awful lot of work to replace a component that's going to
last
another 3 years anyway. Most bands would be quite happy with that sort of
level of failure. Have you had this 'improved' socket version of yours in
use anywhere that you can monitor it, for longer than three years to see
if
it actually does last better, and not suffer from some different
mechanical
failure ?

Some 'original' open frame switched jacks in one-off prices here

http://www.watfordvalves.com/products.asp?id=6&man=86

Not necessarily exactly what you're talking about, but still good for
replacing dodgy Fender etc jacks

Arfa

AFAIK there is no totally isolated contact pair on those switchcraft. I use
Watford for valves but sw requirement would have to coincide with valve
purchase because of min order
I'd rather spend 1/2 hour adaopting an off the shelf item than 1/2 hour
trying to find direct replacement , ordering , waiting etc. The -15V would
go to the existing fixed contact and the potentially breakable contact would
go to the downstream side.
Those Jalco , the only strength is the soldering to the board, the plastic
"body" can flex all over the place, even with solder points in place.

Not had to make an isolated one before. Nearest was a push in to make
contact for something I forget what. Soldering a robbed inverted moving
contct to an existing and extending the fixed to an inverted contact robbed
from another. Never bounced back so maybe still functional.

 

[David Nebenzahl]

On 2/15/2010 12:30 AM N_Cook spake thus:

I'm getting rather tired of seeing band amp failures due to the use of these
flimsey domestic grade of amp headphone sockets. Even if you can get hold of
one off replacements, rather than minimum of 100 , what is the point of like
for like replacement if only 3 years of use, not abuse, leads to amp
failure.

Current one carried a negative rail for switching purposes so definitely
isolated switch action required.
Starting with a standard 2 way or 3 way chassis or pcb mount socket. For 1 2
or 3 isolated sockets and continued use of the 3 tip/ring/ground contacts to
an inserted jack.
Rough up mechanically the outer surface of the moving contact. Solder,
deliberately messily for later glue bonding, some highly flexible hookup
wire to the end of a moving contact at the switch contact end.

[snip remainder of bodgery]

Honestly, Norm, you and Patrick Turner, the guy who likes to mutilate
Conrad Johnson amplifiers and such (over in rec.audio.tech) ought to get
a room together.


--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"