Tinning a Soldering Iron Tip

[behindontaxes@xemaps.com]

Just beginning to learn soldering, and have gotten in the habit of
tinning the tip with fresh solder.

I have a Weller 40W and a Weller 35W (grounded) constant-temperature
iron with conical tips.

I have a lot of trouble with getting solder on these tips, and I
believe neither tip is heavily used or abused (no filing or sanding).
Solder would just blob up and drip to the floor or table. The tips
do seem to oxidize quickly, as they start turning all sorts of colors
on the spectrum. I'm using distilled water on the sponge.

Colleague hooked up a device that essentially turned my constant-temp
iron into a variable-temp soldering station, or at least turned down
the temp enough to let solder stick to the tip. I can't name that
device now. The iron would plug into the device, and the device was
plugged into the wall. I would like to get one for use in the United
States.

I'm performing basic through-hole tasks on circuit boards for PC power
supplies and LCD monitors. I'd like to graduate up to surface-mount
sodlering. Im assuming my irons are at an appropriate wattage.

Any thoughts on correctly tinning the tip with my irons?
What's that device called?
Should I get an iron at a lower wattage?

Thanks for reading!

 

[David Eather]

On 13/04/2011 4:53 PM, behindontaxes@xemaps.com wrote:

Just beginning to learn soldering, and have gotten in the habit of
tinning the tip with fresh solder.

I have a Weller 40W and a Weller 35W (grounded) constant-temperature
iron with conical tips.

I have a lot of trouble with getting solder on these tips, and I
believe neither tip is heavily used or abused (no filing or sanding).
Solder would just blob up and drip to the floor or table. The tips
do seem to oxidize quickly, as they start turning all sorts of colors
on the spectrum. I'm using distilled water on the sponge.

Colleague hooked up a device that essentially turned my constant-temp
iron into a variable-temp soldering station, or at least turned down
the temp enough to let solder stick to the tip. I can't name that
device now. The iron would plug into the device, and the device was
plugged into the wall. I would like to get one for use in the United
States.

I'm performing basic through-hole tasks on circuit boards for PC power
supplies and LCD monitors. I'd like to graduate up to surface-mount
sodlering. Im assuming my irons are at an appropriate wattage.

Any thoughts on correctly tinning the tip with my irons?
What's that device called?
Should I get an iron at a lower wattage?

Thanks for reading!

Use this to refresh soldering iron tips:

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/solder-tip-refresher-7207

but your iron should give a lot of use before that is necessary. One
beginner mistake is they always clean the tip after a soldering joint is
made and leave the soldering iron on the stand that way. BIG MISTAKE.
Clean the tip and re-wet it before making a joint and put it in the
stand dirty and covered with solder. The solder protects the tip from
oxidation. Properly treated a tip can last for years. Putting the tip
back in the stand when cleaned can destroy it within a day.

The iron watage you describe is probably OK for PTH. You might have
better results with a small chisel tip (don't file a plated tip into a
chisel tip). Get some practice, experience and other opinions before you
get another iron.

 

On Wed, 13 Apr 2011 01:53:10 -0500, "behindontaxes@xemaps.com"
<behindontaxes@xemaps.com> wrote:

Just beginning to learn soldering, and have gotten in the habit of
tinning the tip with fresh solder.

I have a Weller 40W and a Weller 35W (grounded) constant-temperature
iron with conical tips.

I have a lot of trouble with getting solder on these tips, and I
believe neither tip is heavily used or abused (no filing or sanding).
Solder would just blob up and drip to the floor or table. The tips
do seem to oxidize quickly, as they start turning all sorts of colors
on the spectrum. I'm using distilled water on the sponge.

Colleague hooked up a device that essentially turned my constant-temp
iron into a variable-temp soldering station, or at least turned down
the temp enough to let solder stick to the tip. I can't name that
device now. The iron would plug into the device, and the device was
plugged into the wall. I would like to get one for use in the United
States.

I'm performing basic through-hole tasks on circuit boards for PC power
supplies and LCD monitors. I'd like to graduate up to surface-mount
sodlering. Im assuming my irons are at an appropriate wattage.

Any thoughts on correctly tinning the tip with my irons?
What's that device called?
Should I get an iron at a lower wattage?

Thanks for reading!

That is a fair amount of power 35-40 watts to be using for fine work.
Any iron will burn a tip if you just leave it idle for hours. Ideally
the tip should be down at a 45 degree angle or so - those little throw
away "stands" are useless - you want the lead to coat the tip when
idle.

I'm not familiar with the weller, but there was at least one iron that
was constant temp that used a tip for a specific temperature. Each
tip had a slug of some metal that actually changed the heat flow with
temperature. The iron put out however many watts it was rated at, but
all the regulation was inside the tip itself - change tips to change
heat.

An ordinary lamp dimmer can be used to regulated 120 VAC irons (no
digital readouts, or low voltage irons) A 120 volt pilot lamp (like a
7 watt night light will give a visual indication - wired in parallel
with the iron).

I use fine steel wool and paste flux to clean burned tips - and iron
plated tips.

 

[Winston]

behindontaxes@xemaps.com wrote:

(...)

Any thoughts on correctly tinning the tip with my irons?
What's that device called?

This stuff is the cat's pajamas:
http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_599b.html

A couple stabs into the treated metal curliques and your tip comes
out shiny and ready for more solder. It works great and
lasts just about forever.

Also, please equip yourself with a 'flux pen'.
http://store.curiousinventor.com/kester-flux-pen.html

You won't believe how nicely your finished joints will look
when you use flux to float oxides out before soldering.

Clean the finished joint with a 50-50 mix of 99% alcohol
and naptha:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphtha

Use plenty of ventilation!

--Winston

 

[Ecnerwal]

In article <Xns9EC61D8765994behindontaxesxemapsc@216.196.97.131>,
"behindontaxes@xemaps.com" <behindontaxes@xemaps.com> wrote:

Just beginning to learn soldering, and have gotten in the habit of
tinning the tip with fresh solder.

I have a Weller 40W and a Weller 35W (grounded) constant-temperature
iron with conical tips.

I have a lot of trouble with getting solder on these tips, and I
believe neither tip is heavily used or abused (no filing or sanding).
Solder would just blob up and drip to the floor or table. The tips
do seem to oxidize quickly, as they start turning all sorts of colors
on the spectrum. I'm using distilled water on the sponge.

Colleague hooked up a device that essentially turned my constant-temp
iron into a variable-temp soldering station, or at least turned down
the temp enough to let solder stick to the tip. I can't name that
device now. The iron would plug into the device, and the device was
plugged into the wall. I would like to get one for use in the United
States.

I'm performing basic through-hole tasks on circuit boards for PC power
supplies and LCD monitors. I'd like to graduate up to surface-mount
sodlering. Im assuming my irons are at an appropriate wattage.

Any thoughts on correctly tinning the tip with my irons?
What's that device called?
Should I get an iron at a lower wattage?

Thanks for reading!

If your constant temp irons are of the type where you remove the tip and
it has a number stamped in the back, I have to wonder if that number is
an 8, and you should go buy some 6's or 7's. (600, 700, 800°F)

I have that type (WTCPN/TC201) of Weller constant temp iron (60W) and
it's worked fine for decades with a 7 tip. Since the temperature control
works, it does not overheat regardless of wattage - lower wattage only
slows you down, IF temperature control is working (and at the right
temperature). New 7 tips bought for different shapes also work fine.
I've never seen a need for an 8. However, there are several other
constant temperature schemes which have been used over the years.

Try posting your irons' model numbers here, and advice more specific to
the ones you have may be forthcoming.

You should not need to do anything between the iron and the wall with a
properly functioning constant temp iron.

The device would probably be a transformer - perhaps you were using a
120V iron on 240V, and your friend provided a 240-120 transformer - if
so, you're in luck, as you can get 120 right out of the wall in the US.

Other than not overheating your irons, cleaning (not filing) the tips
well and using flux-core solder for tinning (and tinning just as soon as
possible after cleaning - don't go get a cup of coffee while you wait
for the iron to heat), perhaps with a bit of extra flux to help clean if
you are having huge problems. Then again, if the tips are hopelessly
contaminated, new tips might be a good investment, but it'd hard to tell
at a distance. Are you using RoHS solder or tin/lead?

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

 

[Michael Black]

On Wed, 13 Apr 2011, behindontaxes@xemaps.com wrote:

Just beginning to learn soldering, and have gotten in the habit of
tinning the tip with fresh solder.

I have a Weller 40W and a Weller 35W (grounded) constant-temperature
iron with conical tips.

I have a lot of trouble with getting solder on these tips, and I
believe neither tip is heavily used or abused (no filing or sanding).
Solder would just blob up and drip to the floor or table. The tips
do seem to oxidize quickly, as they start turning all sorts of colors
on the spectrum. I'm using distilled water on the sponge.

Did you tin them the first time you plugged them in, assuming they were

new when you got them?

If you don't tin them the first time, then some sort of layer builds up
almost immediately that prevents the solder from sticking, which is the
point of that first tinning.

If this is the case, you need to get whatever's on there off (and assuming
the tips are plated, you don't want to use a file), and then properly tin
it.

Once a tip is properly tinned, at least modern plated tips, it takes a lot
to build up something that requires a lot of effort to clean the tip.

Michael

 

[ehsjr]

behindontaxes@xemaps.com wrote:

Just beginning to learn soldering, and have gotten in the habit of
tinning the tip with fresh solder.

I have a Weller 40W and a Weller 35W (grounded) constant-temperature
iron with conical tips.

I have a lot of trouble with getting solder on these tips, and I
believe neither tip is heavily used or abused (no filing or sanding).
Solder would just blob up and drip to the floor or table. The tips
do seem to oxidize quickly, as they start turning all sorts of colors
on the spectrum. I'm using distilled water on the sponge.

Colleague hooked up a device that essentially turned my constant-temp
iron into a variable-temp soldering station, or at least turned down
the temp enough to let solder stick to the tip. I can't name that
device now. The iron would plug into the device, and the device was
plugged into the wall. I would like to get one for use in the United
States.

I'm performing basic through-hole tasks on circuit boards for PC power
supplies and LCD monitors. I'd like to graduate up to surface-mount
sodlering. Im assuming my irons are at an appropriate wattage.

Any thoughts on correctly tinning the tip with my irons?
What's that device called?
Should I get an iron at a lower wattage?

Thanks for reading!

Whatever else you do, immediately after turning the iron off,
and while it's still hot enough to melt solder, tin it. I always
clean and tin at power off time, and I haven't lost a tip since
I started doing that many years ago. I clean with a folded (many
folds) paper towel to avoid anything abrasive.

Ed

 

[Rich Grise]

behindontaxes@xemaps.com wrote:

Just beginning to learn soldering, and have gotten in the habit of
tinning the tip with fresh solder.

I have a Weller 40W and a Weller 35W (grounded) constant-temperature
iron with conical tips.

I have a lot of trouble with getting solder on these tips, and I
believe neither tip is heavily used or abused (no filing or sanding).
Solder would just blob up and drip to the floor or table. The tips
do seem to oxidize quickly, as they start turning all sorts of colors
on the spectrum. I'm using distilled water on the sponge.

You're running WAY too hot. A 40W iron is more amenable to patching a car

radiator, or doing plumbing. The tip shouldn't discolor _at all_. I once
had a _seventeen_ watt iron (RS "Princess") and it worked like a dream. The
controller you're looking for is sometimes called a "dimmer." I once had
a 25W iron that ran too hot. I bought an in-line slide switch, wired it in
series with my iron, and slapped a power diode across the switch contacts -
switch closed, full power - switch open, "half" power (probably more
like .707, but that's a whole nother discussion).

I also had a thing called "tiptinner" that I got from Radio Schlock back
when they actually had useful stuff - it was a little tin tub, about 1"
diameter X about 3/8" tall, that was full of tiny solder beads buried in
rosin flux; I don't know if you can even still get anything like that.

I'm not going to say, "Trust me," but only that I'd started soldering at
such a young age that when I was in USAF electronic tech school, (1968/69)
I tested out of the soldering class. ;-)

Good Luck!
Rich

 

[Grant]

On Wed, 13 Apr 2011 01:53:10 -0500, "behindontaxes@xemaps.com" <behindontaxes@xemaps.com> wrote:

Just beginning to learn soldering, and have gotten in the habit of
tinning the tip with fresh solder.

I have a Weller 40W and a Weller 35W (grounded) constant-temperature
iron with conical tips.

I have a lot of trouble with getting solder on these tips, and I
believe neither tip is heavily used or abused (no filing or sanding).
Solder would just blob up and drip to the floor or table. The tips
do seem to oxidize quickly, as they start turning all sorts of colors
on the spectrum. I'm using distilled water on the sponge.

Tips are too hot, turn down the iron, or get a proper iron.

Grant.

Colleague hooked up a device that essentially turned my constant-temp
iron into a variable-temp soldering station, or at least turned down
the temp enough to let solder stick to the tip. I can't name that
device now. The iron would plug into the device, and the device was
plugged into the wall. I would like to get one for use in the United
States.

I'm performing basic through-hole tasks on circuit boards for PC power
supplies and LCD monitors. I'd like to graduate up to surface-mount
sodlering. Im assuming my irons are at an appropriate wattage.

Any thoughts on correctly tinning the tip with my irons?
What's that device called?
Should I get an iron at a lower wattage?

Thanks for reading!

 

[Phil Allison]

<behindontaxes@xemaps.com>

Just beginning to learn soldering, and have gotten in the habit of
tinning the tip with fresh solder.

I have a Weller 40W and a Weller 35W (grounded) constant-temperature
iron with conical tips.

I have a lot of trouble with getting solder on these tips, and I
believe neither tip is heavily used or abused (no filing or sanding).
Solder would just blob up and drip to the floor or table. The tips
do seem to oxidize quickly, as they start turning all sorts of colors
on the spectrum. I'm using distilled water on the sponge.

** Three things:

The tips are running too hot for general electronics work.

Bet you are using " lead free" solder - right ??

The flux that usually come with Pb free solder is abominable.

Get yourself a temp controlled iron - plenty of good, cheap ones around and
set it to no more than 700F or 370C.

Use 60/40 solder with normal ( not water soluble ) flux.



..... Phil

 

[behindontaxes@xemaps.com]

I've decided to make something that will turn down the heat on the
irons I am currently using:

http://www.instructables.com/id/10ish-DIY-Variable-Temp-Soldering-
Iron-Controller

I'm probably going to buy something that will aggressively clean the
tips (RS tip cleaner, a tinning block, or Plato TT-95).

I think I may have compromised the tips I am currently using. I used
tap water for starters. Worse, after finishing soldering, not only
did I fail to tin the tip to leave an anoxided tip, I also cleaned it
with a paper towel soaked with tap water.

With that in mind, I have found several options for rescuing that tip
before I resort to something like a tinning block:

brass-bristled brush (wipes the crud, but still soft enough to leave
the tip alone)
corrugated cardboard (and paper)
steel wool (too aggressive?)
scotch-brite (the green stuff)

More thoughts?

Thanks for the input!



"behindontaxes@xemaps.com" <behindontaxes@xemaps.com> wrote in
news:Xns9EC61D8765994behindontaxesxemapsc@216.196.97.131:

Just beginning to learn soldering, and have gotten in the habit of
tinning the tip with fresh solder.

I have a Weller 40W and a Weller 35W (grounded) constant-temperature
iron with conical tips.

I have a lot of trouble with getting solder on these tips, and I
believe neither tip is heavily used or abused (no filing or
sanding). Solder would just blob up and drip to the floor or
table. The tips do seem to oxidize quickly, as they start turning
all sorts of colors on the spectrum. I'm using distilled water on
the sponge.

Colleague hooked up a device that essentially turned my
constant-temp iron into a variable-temp soldering station, or at
least turned down the temp enough to let solder stick to the tip.
I can't name that device now. The iron would plug into the device,
and the device was plugged into the wall. I would like to get one
for use in the United States.

I'm performing basic through-hole tasks on circuit boards for PC
power supplies and LCD monitors. I'd like to graduate up to
surface-mount sodlering. Im assuming my irons are at an appropriate
wattage.

Any thoughts on correctly tinning the tip with my irons?
What's that device called?
Should I get an iron at a lower wattage?

Thanks for reading!

 

[Bob Masta]

On Wed, 13 Apr 2011 01:53:10 -0500,
"behindontaxes@xemaps.com" <behindontaxes@xemaps.com> wrote:

Just beginning to learn soldering, and have gotten in the habit of
tinning the tip with fresh solder.

I have a Weller 40W and a Weller 35W (grounded) constant-temperature
iron with conical tips.

I have a lot of trouble with getting solder on these tips, and I
believe neither tip is heavily used or abused (no filing or sanding).
Solder would just blob up and drip to the floor or table. The tips
do seem to oxidize quickly, as they start turning all sorts of colors
on the spectrum. I'm using distilled water on the sponge.

Colleague hooked up a device that essentially turned my constant-temp
iron into a variable-temp soldering station, or at least turned down
the temp enough to let solder stick to the tip. I can't name that
device now. The iron would plug into the device, and the device was
plugged into the wall. I would like to get one for use in the United
States.

I'm performing basic through-hole tasks on circuit boards for PC power
supplies and LCD monitors. I'd like to graduate up to surface-mount
sodlering. Im assuming my irons are at an appropriate wattage.

Any thoughts on correctly tinning the tip with my irons?
What's that device called?
Should I get an iron at a lower wattage?

Thanks for reading!

You mention that you are using Weller constant temperature
irons. I have used a W60 for decades, and it's a great
iron. If your irons are of similar design, then there is
something you need to understand: These are fundamentally
different from "conventional" irons.

The constant temperature is maintained by a mechanism in the
tip itself. As I understand it, it contains a spring-loaded
magnetic slug. The magnet overcomes the spring to hold the
power contact closed, heating the tip. When the tip reaches
the Curie point of the magnetic slug, it loses magnetism and
the spring breaks contact. When it cools below the Curie
point, magnetism is restored and the contact is made again.
This goes on continually to maintain the tip at a constant
temperature. If you listen carefully, you can hear a faint
click when the tip cycles.

Note that the wattage of the iron does not control the tip
temperature... it only controls how much total heat it can
deliver to a (large) joint. There is no danger of using an
iron with a high wattage rating on fine joints. In
particular, it would be a mistake to try to add any sort of
"controller".

But as another post pointed out, you do need to select the
proper tip temperature.

Hope this helps!

Best regards,


Bob Masta

DAQARTA v6.01
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
Scope, Spectrum, Spectrogram, Sound Level Meter
Frequency Counter, FREE Signal Generator
Pitch Track, Pitch-to-MIDI
Science with your sound card!

 

[Phil Allison]

"Bob Masta"

You mention that you are using Weller constant temperature
irons.

** The OP means FIXED temperature irons.

IE the cheap shit they sell to home handymen et alia.

The tips are slow to reach full temp - but that final temp is a crazy 900
F or more.




..... Phil

 

[Phil Allison]

"Bob Masta"

You mention that you are using Weller constant temperature
irons.

** Odds on the OP is using a couple of Marksman irons, a 25 and a 40W.

These have no temperature control and run at 750F and 900F respectively.

Bad news for most electrocics work.

http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/weller/index.cfm?model_list=1&att_id=WEL002%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20&att1=Soldering%20Irons%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20&att2=Consumer%20Soldering%20Iron%20Kits%20%20

I have used a W60 for decades, and it's a great
iron. If your irons are of similar design, then there is
something you need to understand: These are fundamentally
different from "conventional" irons.

The constant temperature is maintained by a mechanism in the
tip itself. As I understand it, it contains a spring-loaded
magnetic slug. The magnet overcomes the spring to hold the
power contact closed, heating the tip. When the tip reaches
the Curie point of the magnetic slug, it loses magnetism and
the spring breaks contact. When it cools below the Curie
point, magnetism is restored and the contact is made again.
This goes on continually to maintain the tip at a constant
temperature. If you listen carefully, you can hear a faint
click when the tip cycles.

** Err - the tip contains no magnet and no mechanism.

That is all contained in the "switch" assembly which fits inside the heater.

The tips have a steel slug attached to the base with various Curie temps.

IME - the tips shave a relatively short life, the switch assemblies an
even shorter one and the heaters are likely to fail any old time.


..... Phil

 

[Cydrome Leader]

Bob Masta <N0Spam@daqarta.com> wrote:

On Wed, 13 Apr 2011 01:53:10 -0500,
"behindontaxes@xemaps.com" <behindontaxes@xemaps.com> wrote:

Just beginning to learn soldering, and have gotten in the habit of
tinning the tip with fresh solder.

I have a Weller 40W and a Weller 35W (grounded) constant-temperature
iron with conical tips.

I have a lot of trouble with getting solder on these tips, and I
believe neither tip is heavily used or abused (no filing or sanding).
Solder would just blob up and drip to the floor or table. The tips
do seem to oxidize quickly, as they start turning all sorts of colors
on the spectrum. I'm using distilled water on the sponge.

Colleague hooked up a device that essentially turned my constant-temp
iron into a variable-temp soldering station, or at least turned down
the temp enough to let solder stick to the tip. I can't name that
device now. The iron would plug into the device, and the device was
plugged into the wall. I would like to get one for use in the United
States.

I'm performing basic through-hole tasks on circuit boards for PC power
supplies and LCD monitors. I'd like to graduate up to surface-mount
sodlering. Im assuming my irons are at an appropriate wattage.

Any thoughts on correctly tinning the tip with my irons?
What's that device called?
Should I get an iron at a lower wattage?

Thanks for reading!

You mention that you are using Weller constant temperature
irons. I have used a W60 for decades, and it's a great
iron. If your irons are of similar design, then there is
something you need to understand: These are fundamentally
different from "conventional" irons.

The constant temperature is maintained by a mechanism in the
tip itself. As I understand it, it contains a spring-loaded
magnetic slug. The magnet overcomes the spring to hold the
power contact closed, heating the tip. When the tip reaches
the Curie point of the magnetic slug, it loses magnetism and
the spring breaks contact. When it cools below the Curie
point, magnetism is restored and the contact is made again.
This goes on continually to maintain the tip at a constant
temperature. If you listen carefully, you can hear a faint
click when the tip cycles.

I wish I could shake the hand of whoever designed those irons.

 

[John Fields]

On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 12:29:22 GMT, N0Spam@daqarta.com (Bob Masta)
wrote:

You mention that you are using Weller constant temperature
irons. I have used a W60 for decades, and it's a great
iron. If your irons are of similar design, then there is
something you need to understand: These are fundamentally
different from "conventional" irons.

The constant temperature is maintained by a mechanism in the
tip itself. As I understand it, it contains a spring-loaded
magnetic slug. The magnet overcomes the spring to hold the
power contact closed, heating the tip. When the tip reaches
the Curie point of the magnetic slug, it loses magnetism and
the spring breaks contact. When it cools below the Curie
point, magnetism is restored and the contact is made again.
This goes on continually to maintain the tip at a constant
temperature.

---
Not quite.


news:a8ejq6hpdb15qjj3rcie2fl033cno9hj4f@4ax.com


--
JF

 

[Rich Grise]

Cydrome Leader wrote:

Bob Masta <N0Spam@daqarta.com> wrote:
...[Weller Irons]
This goes on continually to maintain the tip at a constant
temperature. If you listen carefully, you can hear a faint
click when the tip cycles.

I wish I could shake the hand of whoever designed those irons.

Another thing I like is the little recess on the top of the power
supply/base unit, where you put the sponge, which presumably is
real sponge.

Cheers!
Rich

 

[John Fields]

On Sat, 16 Apr 2011 09:30:43 -0700, Rich Grise
<richg@example.net.invalid> wrote:

Cydrome Leader wrote:
Bob Masta <N0Spam@daqarta.com> wrote:
...[Weller Irons]
This goes on continually to maintain the tip at a constant
temperature. If you listen carefully, you can hear a faint
click when the tip cycles.

I wish I could shake the hand of whoever designed those irons.

Another thing I like is the little recess on the top of the power
supply/base unit, where you put the sponge, which presumably is
real sponge.

Cheers!
Rich

---
Doesn't the sponge go in the PH1201ESD?

news:7n9lq611dfqakutrl5urhnpcb9iio258e6@4ax.com

--
JF

 

[Rich Grise]

John Fields wrote:

On Sat, 16 Apr 2011 09:30:43 -0700, Rich Grise
Cydrome Leader wrote:
Bob Masta <N0Spam@daqarta.com> wrote:
...[Weller Irons]
This goes on continually to maintain the tip at a constant
temperature. If you listen carefully, you can hear a faint
click when the tip cycles.

I wish I could shake the hand of whoever designed those irons.

Another thing I like is the little recess on the top of the power
supply/base unit, where you put the sponge, which presumably is
real sponge.

Doesn't the sponge go in the PH1201ESD?

Yeah - "base unit." ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

 

[behindontaxes@xemaps.com]

Yes! The 40W is a Marksman SP40L and the 35W is the WP35 and they
indeed run at 900 and 850 deg F, respectively.

Thanks for posting the URL. I'm going to look at the WSB25HK some
more.

I fooled around with a Xytronic 200GX 25W iron the other day. I
tinned the tip just fine and used a brass-bristled brush to get the
crap off beforehand. The tip had a chisel which was too wide for
fine work. I'm not sure if I correctly removed just the tip - it
looked like it was several inches in length with threads on the end.

I also caught wind of an iron at Walmart by 3M. It's 30W, but I
might go back to read the packaging some more because I didn't look
for operating temperature specs. I have no idea about the quality
behind this thing.

At least I know I should be looking for something operating at ... 750
deg F at most?



"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in
news:90sed6Fi9fU1@mid.individual.net:

"Bob Masta"

You mention that you are using Weller constant temperature
irons.

** Odds on the OP is using a couple of Marksman irons, a 25 and a
40W.

These have no temperature control and run at 750F and 900F
respectively.

Bad news for most electrocics work.

http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/weller/index.cfm?model_list=1
&a
tt_id=WEL002%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20&att1=Soldering%
20Iro
ns%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20&att2=Consumer%
20Solde
ring%20Iron%20Kits%20%20


I have used a W60 for decades, and it's a great
iron. If your irons are of similar design, then there is
something you need to understand: These are fundamentally
different from "conventional" irons.

The constant temperature is maintained by a mechanism in the
tip itself. As I understand it, it contains a spring-loaded
magnetic slug. The magnet overcomes the spring to hold the
power contact closed, heating the tip. When the tip reaches
the Curie point of the magnetic slug, it loses magnetism and
the spring breaks contact. When it cools below the Curie
point, magnetism is restored and the contact is made again.
This goes on continually to maintain the tip at a constant
temperature. If you listen carefully, you can hear a faint
click when the tip cycles.


** Err - the tip contains no magnet and no mechanism.

That is all contained in the "switch" assembly which fits inside the
heater.

The tips have a steel slug attached to the base with various Curie
temps.

IME - the tips shave a relatively short life, the switch
assemblies an even shorter one and the heaters are likely to fail
any old time.


.... Phil