Time Delay Relay or other something that is ON TOPIC!!...

[ABLE1]

Hello,

I thought I would post this question here to see if someone can assist.

I have a outside flood light on the soffit at about 16 Feet AGL with
a motion sensor that is mounted at about 8 Feet AGL that is powered
24/7 from a 120VAC Switch inside the garage.

That is until Mother Nature throws a lightning bolt ⚡💥and zaps the
power off for a second or two. When that happens at night the motion
sensor head powers the lights on until I happen to notice and flip the
switch off for about 5 - 8 seconds and then all returns to normal,
otherwise the lights stay on until the Sun comes up.
Which is not needed and cranks up the electric bill!$!$!

I could tear all the Romex wiring apart, install a water proof box,
wire in a Time Delay Relay so that when the power comes back on the
Motion Head is not powered for maybe 30 seconds or so.

However, that seems like a lot of work and there should be a easier
way!!!

So, anyone have a thought or solution that would fit inside
of a 4\" Round Weather Tight Box that the Motion Head is mounted on??

Or maybe some other thoughts that would make it a simple fix??

Maybe some small Electronic Circuit thingie that would fix the problem.

Thanks for any hints.

Les

 

[JoeC]

On Saturday, July 29, 2023 at 9:21:47 AM UTC-5, ABLE1 wrote:

Hello,

I thought I would post this question here to see if someone can assist.

I have a outside flood light on the soffit at about 16 Feet AGL with
a motion sensor that is mounted at about 8 Feet AGL that is powered
24/7 from a 120VAC Switch inside the garage.

That is until Mother Nature throws a lightning bolt ⚡💥and zaps the
power off for a second or two. When that happens at night the motion
sensor head powers the lights on until I happen to notice and flip the
switch off for about 5 - 8 seconds and then all returns to normal,
otherwise the lights stay on until the Sun comes up.
Which is not needed and cranks up the electric bill!$!$!

I could tear all the Romex wiring apart, install a water proof box,
wire in a Time Delay Relay so that when the power comes back on the
Motion Head is not powered for maybe 30 seconds or so.

However, that seems like a lot of work and there should be a easier
way!!!

So, anyone have a thought or solution that would fit inside
of a 4\" Round Weather Tight Box that the Motion Head is mounted on??

Or maybe some other thoughts that would make it a simple fix??

Maybe some small Electronic Circuit thingie that would fix the problem.

Thanks for any hints.

Les

The light is designed to stay on if the power is interrupted momentarily. Your installation is not the problem. Either a new light or design a circuit that resets the power automatically.

 

[ABLE1]

On 7/29/2023 1:12 PM, JoeC wrote:

On Saturday, July 29, 2023 at 9:21:47 AM UTC-5, ABLE1 wrote:
Hello,

I thought I would post this question here to see if someone can assist.

I have a outside flood light on the soffit at about 16 Feet AGL with
a motion sensor that is mounted at about 8 Feet AGL that is powered
24/7 from a 120VAC Switch inside the garage.

That is until Mother Nature throws a lightning bolt ⚡💥and zaps the
power off for a second or two. When that happens at night the motion
sensor head powers the lights on until I happen to notice and flip the
switch off for about 5 - 8 seconds and then all returns to normal,
otherwise the lights stay on until the Sun comes up.
Which is not needed and cranks up the electric bill!$!$!

I could tear all the Romex wiring apart, install a water proof box,
wire in a Time Delay Relay so that when the power comes back on the
Motion Head is not powered for maybe 30 seconds or so.

However, that seems like a lot of work and there should be a easier
way!!!

So, anyone have a thought or solution that would fit inside
of a 4\" Round Weather Tight Box that the Motion Head is mounted on??

Or maybe some other thoughts that would make it a simple fix??

Maybe some small Electronic Circuit thingie that would fix the problem.

Thanks for any hints.

Les

The light is designed to stay on if the power is interrupted momentarily. Your installation is not the problem. Either a new light or design a circuit that resets the power automatically.

Hi JoeC,

That is what I am looking for but to just hold off turning the power
back on quickly. A small Time Delay Relay that on power up puts
the Motion Detector unit back into it\'s normal operation.

Basically the same as I do with the power switch in the garage but
without my mental strain!!!

I just need some device that is small enough to fit the 4\" round box.

Thanks for your interest in the challenge.

Les

 

[Bob F]

On 7/29/2023 10:12 AM, JoeC wrote:

On Saturday, July 29, 2023 at 9:21:47 AM UTC-5, ABLE1 wrote:
Hello,

I thought I would post this question here to see if someone can assist.

I have a outside flood light on the soffit at about 16 Feet AGL with
a motion sensor that is mounted at about 8 Feet AGL that is powered
24/7 from a 120VAC Switch inside the garage.

That is until Mother Nature throws a lightning bolt ⚡💥and zaps the
power off for a second or two. When that happens at night the motion
sensor head powers the lights on until I happen to notice and flip the
switch off for about 5 - 8 seconds and then all returns to normal,
otherwise the lights stay on until the Sun comes up.
Which is not needed and cranks up the electric bill!$!$!

I could tear all the Romex wiring apart, install a water proof box,
wire in a Time Delay Relay so that when the power comes back on the
Motion Head is not powered for maybe 30 seconds or so.

However, that seems like a lot of work and there should be a easier
way!!!

So, anyone have a thought or solution that would fit inside
of a 4\" Round Weather Tight Box that the Motion Head is mounted on??

Or maybe some other thoughts that would make it a simple fix??

Maybe some small Electronic Circuit thingie that would fix the problem.

Thanks for any hints.

Les
The light is designed to stay on if the power is interrupted momentarily. Your installation is not the problem. Either a new light or design a circuit that resets the power automatically.

I have had multiple sensor lights that would do that.

The light is probably designed to lock on if you turn it off and on
again quickly. So making sure the power stays off long enough would
disable that feature and do what he wants. Then, you would have to
disable the fix to keep the light on for Halloween.

 

[ABLE1]

On 7/29/2023 4:18 PM, Bob F wrote:

On 7/29/2023 10:12 AM, JoeC wrote:
On Saturday, July 29, 2023 at 9:21:47 AM UTC-5, ABLE1 wrote:
Hello,

I thought I would post this question here to see if someone can assist.

I have a outside flood light on the soffit at about 16 Feet AGL with
a motion sensor that is mounted at about 8 Feet AGL that is powered
24/7 from a 120VAC Switch inside the garage.

That is until Mother Nature throws a lightning bolt ⚡💥and zaps the
power off for a second or two. When that happens at night the motion
sensor head powers the lights on until I happen to notice and flip the
switch off for about 5 - 8 seconds and then all returns to normal,
otherwise the lights stay on until the Sun comes up.
Which is not needed and cranks up the electric bill!$!$!

I could tear all the Romex wiring apart, install a water proof box,
wire in a Time Delay Relay so that when the power comes back on the
Motion Head is not powered for maybe 30 seconds or so.

However, that seems like a lot of work and there should be a easier
way!!!

So, anyone have a thought or solution that would fit inside
of a 4\" Round Weather Tight Box that the Motion Head is mounted on??

Or maybe some other thoughts that would make it a simple fix??

Maybe some small Electronic Circuit thingie that would fix the problem.

Thanks for any hints.

Les
The light is designed to stay on if the power is interrupted
momentarily. Your installation is not the problem. Either a  new light
or design a circuit that resets the power automatically.

I have had multiple sensor lights that would do that.

The light is probably designed to lock on if you turn it off and on
again quickly. So making sure the power stays off long enough would
disable that feature and do what he wants. Then, you would have to
disable the fix to keep the light on for Halloween.

Hi Bob F,

You are most likely correct that the quick off/on is built into
the circuitry to give that ability. I had not thought of that
before. However, Mother Nature does know and just wants to punish
me for some unknown reason. :-(

BTW The Halloween issue is a non-issue here!!!

I would think a small Delay <On> Timer for 30-60 seconds would fix the
problem. It just needs to fit the box.

Thanks,

Les

 

[Allodoxaphobia]

On Sat, 29 Jul 2023 10:21:31 -0400, ABLE1 wrote:

power off for a second or two. When that happens at night the motion
sensor head powers the lights on until I happen to notice and flip the
switch off for about 5 - 8 seconds and then all returns to normal,
otherwise the lights stay on until the Sun comes up.
Which is not needed and cranks up the electric bill!$!$!

\"cranks up the electric bill\"?!? How do LED lights do that?

 

[ABLE1]

On 7/30/2023 8:48 AM, Allodoxaphobia wrote:

On Sat, 29 Jul 2023 10:21:31 -0400, ABLE1 wrote:

power off for a second or two. When that happens at night the motion
sensor head powers the lights on until I happen to notice and flip the
switch off for about 5 - 8 seconds and then all returns to normal,
otherwise the lights stay on until the Sun comes up.
Which is not needed and cranks up the electric bill!$!$!

\"cranks up the electric bill\"?!? How do LED lights do that?

LOL

So LED\'s apply a negative KWH co$t???

I don\'t think so!!

 

[Klay Anderson]

On Sunday, July 30, 2023 at 7:34:27 AM UTC-6, ABLE1 wrote:

On 7/30/2023 8:48 AM, Allodoxaphobia wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jul 2023 10:21:31 -0400, ABLE1 wrote:

power off for a second or two. When that happens at night the motion
sensor head powers the lights on until I happen to notice and flip the
switch off for about 5 - 8 seconds and then all returns to normal,
otherwise the lights stay on until the Sun comes up.

There are quite a few off-shore assembled circuits that will do what you want but will not fit in the space. Additionally, they typically need a small amount of DC to work the circuitry. There are several I\'ve used and they work fine. Since you indicated an additional waterproof box is not desired, I suggest a box extender and possibly one of those cards. No matter what you do it\'s gonna get crowded in there. Oh, BTW, there are some programmable DIN rail mounting devices as well for mounting closer to the breaker box. Yet another idea is to add Z-Wave (Smartthings) to your home to automate this and other devices in your home. Replace that wall switch with a z-wave and you can at least turn it off and on remotely. There may be a way to add a turn-on delay as well depending on the switch.

 

[ABLE1]

On 7/30/2023 1:41 PM, Klay Anderson wrote:

On Sunday, July 30, 2023 at 7:34:27 AM UTC-6, ABLE1 wrote:
On 7/30/2023 8:48 AM, Allodoxaphobia wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jul 2023 10:21:31 -0400, ABLE1 wrote:

power off for a second or two. When that happens at night the motion
sensor head powers the lights on until I happen to notice and flip the
switch off for about 5 - 8 seconds and then all returns to normal,
otherwise the lights stay on until the Sun comes up.

There are quite a few off-shore assembled circuits that will do what you want but will not fit in the space. Additionally, they typically need a small amount of DC to work the circuitry. There are several I\'ve used and they work fine. Since you indicated an additional waterproof box is not desired, I suggest a box extender and possibly one of those cards. No matter what you do it\'s gonna get crowded in there. Oh, BTW, there are some programmable DIN rail mounting devices as well for mounting closer to the breaker box. Yet another idea is to add Z-Wave (Smartthings) to your home to automate this and other devices in your home. Replace that wall switch with a z-wave and you can at least turn it off and on remotely. There may be a way to add a turn-on delay as well depending on the switch.

Hi Klay,

Thanks for the extra input. I have found from another group
that a Omron H3Y-2 would do the job. Already ordered one
at a very good price. Once I have in my hands I will determine
a best fit for the existing box. It it is a challenge I will
swap it out for something else that will work. With the socket
for the Relay Module it is only about 3.4\" high and it might fit
laying it on it\'s side. If not a 4\" square PVC box should work.

Time will Tell!!

Les

 

[ehsjr]

On 7/30/2023 2:05 PM, ABLE1 wrote:

On 7/30/2023 1:41 PM, Klay Anderson wrote:
On Sunday, July 30, 2023 at 7:34:27 AM UTC-6, ABLE1 wrote:
On 7/30/2023 8:48 AM, Allodoxaphobia wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jul 2023 10:21:31 -0400, ABLE1 wrote:

power off for a second or two. When that happens at night the motion
sensor head powers the lights on until I happen to notice and flip the
switch off for about 5 - 8 seconds and then all returns to normal,
otherwise the lights stay on until the Sun comes up.

There are quite a few off-shore assembled circuits that will do what
you want but will not fit in the space. Additionally, they typically
need a small amount of DC to work the circuitry. There are several
I\'ve used and they work fine. Since you indicated an additional
waterproof box is not desired, I suggest a box extender and possibly
one of those cards. No matter what you do it\'s gonna get crowded in
there. Oh, BTW, there are some programmable DIN rail mounting devices
as well for mounting closer to the breaker box. Yet another idea is to
add Z-Wave (Smartthings) to your home to automate this and other
devices in your home. Replace that wall switch with a z-wave and you
can at least turn it off and on remotely. There may be a way to add a
turn-on delay as well depending on the switch.


Hi Klay,

Thanks for the extra input.  I have found from another group
that a Omron H3Y-2 would do the job.  Already ordered one
at a very good price.  Once I have in my hands I will determine
a best fit for the existing box.  It it is a challenge I will
swap it out for something else that will work.  With the socket
for the Relay Module it is only about 3.4\" high and it might fit
laying it on it\'s side.  If not a 4\" square PVC box should work.

Time will Tell!!

Les

Your break even point (cost of electricity saved vs cost of
Omron) comes out to about 4 years using rough estimates:
12 outages per year; 6 hours 27 minutes per outage;
15.5 W LED floodlight; $0.23 KWH average.
You can come to a more accurate number using the specs that
apply to you instead of the averages I used.

That assumes your cost is $10.00. It won\'t be, using the
Omron. You\'ll need to buy the proper fittings/rails/enclosures/
wire etc. You\'ll need to install it in a dry location - ie
indoors - which can add construction costs. If you jury rig
the thing it will likely be unsafe, and definitly be unsafe
as far as the NEC is concerned.

The best solution - if it exists - is to buy a floodlight that
is programmable the way you want it. What you (and I) have is
designed to be programmable via an on/off switch to do exactly
what you describe: a real brief power interruption turns the
light on until either the sun comes up or you turn off the
switch; an extended (several seconds) power interruption
enables the light to respond to motion. You can find the
description of that buried somewhere in the documentation that
applies to your light.

The REAL question is what is it worth to you to do about it?
I understand the attraction of looking for a \"gizmo\" to modify
what you\'ve got. It can be hard to defeat that attraction.
Cold hard reality can help. Run the numbers for your floodlight
in your location. Think really hard about whether making things
unsafe - or potentially unsafe - is worth it. Think about how
much time and effort you have to put into it. There does come
a point where it is no longer fun.

Ed

 

[three_jeeps]

On Saturday, July 29, 2023 at 10:21:47 AM UTC-4, ABLE1 wrote:

Hello,

I thought I would post this question here to see if someone can assist.

I have a outside flood light on the soffit at about 16 Feet AGL with
a motion sensor that is mounted at about 8 Feet AGL that is powered
24/7 from a 120VAC Switch inside the garage.

That is until Mother Nature throws a lightning bolt ⚡💥and zaps the
power off for a second or two. When that happens at night the motion
sensor head powers the lights on until I happen to notice and flip the
switch off for about 5 - 8 seconds and then all returns to normal,
otherwise the lights stay on until the Sun comes up.
Which is not needed and cranks up the electric bill!$!$!

I could tear all the Romex wiring apart, install a water proof box,
wire in a Time Delay Relay so that when the power comes back on the
Motion Head is not powered for maybe 30 seconds or so.

However, that seems like a lot of work and there should be a easier
way!!!

So, anyone have a thought or solution that would fit inside
of a 4\" Round Weather Tight Box that the Motion Head is mounted on??

Or maybe some other thoughts that would make it a simple fix??

Maybe some small Electronic Circuit thingie that would fix the problem.

Thanks for any hints.

Les

This should work:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/ICM-Controls-ICM203B-ICM203-Delay-on-Break-Timer-03-10-Minute-Knob-Adjust-Delay?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_New_users&gclid=CjwKCAjwlJimBhAsEiwA1hrp5iwaXx2qiYpvi7f-no2JczNmZznzwvodL86iaQE2bqBrwaPbXWZYDhoCdVMQAvD_BwE

 

[three_jeeps]

On Sunday, July 30, 2023 at 5:41:31 PM UTC-4, ehsjr wrote:

On 7/30/2023 2:05 PM, ABLE1 wrote:
snip
The best solution - if it exists - is to buy a floodlight that
is programmable the way you want it. What you (and I) have is
designed to be programmable via an on/off switch to do exactly
what you describe: a real brief power interruption turns the
light on until either the sun comes up or you turn off the
switch; an extended (several seconds) power interruption
enables the light to respond to motion. You can find the
description of that buried somewhere in the documentation that
applies to your light.

The REAL question is what is it worth to you to do about it?
I understand the attraction of looking for a \"gizmo\" to modify
what you\'ve got. It can be hard to defeat that attraction.
Cold hard reality can help. Run the numbers for your floodlight
in your location. Think really hard about whether making things
unsafe - or potentially unsafe - is worth it. Think about how
much time and effort you have to put into it. There does come
a point where it is no longer fun.

Ed

THis may be the best solution but one will be hard pressed to find an outdoor light that is programmable in the way he wants it. Searching for the perverbial needle in a haystack. If there are any.

 

[ABLE1]

On 7/30/2023 5:41 PM, ehsjr wrote:

Your break even point (cost of electricity saved vs cost of
Omron)  comes out to about 4 years using rough estimates:
12 outages per year; 6 hours 27 minutes per outage;
15.5 W LED floodlight; $0.23 KWH average.
You can come to a more accurate number using the specs that
apply to you instead of the averages I used.

That assumes your cost is $10.00.  It won\'t be, using the
Omron. You\'ll need to buy the proper fittings/rails/enclosures/
wire etc. You\'ll need to install it in a dry location - ie
indoors - which can add construction costs.  If you jury rig
the thing it will likely be unsafe, and definitly be unsafe
as far as the NEC is concerned.

The best solution - if it exists - is to buy a floodlight that
is programmable the way you want it. What you (and I) have is
designed to be programmable via an on/off switch to do exactly
what you describe: a real brief power interruption turns the
light on until either the sun comes up or you turn off the
switch; an extended (several seconds) power interruption
enables the light to respond to motion.  You can find the
description of that buried somewhere in the documentation that
applies to your light.

The REAL question is what is it worth to you to do about it?
I understand the attraction of looking for a \"gizmo\" to modify
what you\'ve got.  It can be hard to defeat that attraction.
Cold hard reality can help.  Run the numbers for your floodlight
in your location.  Think really hard about whether making things
unsafe - or potentially unsafe - is worth it.  Think about how
much time and effort you have to put into it.  There does come
a point where it is no longer fun.

Ed

Hi Ed,

I totally understand your thinking. Being a Electrical Contractor for
far too many years and now I that I have sold the business and basically
QUIT!! I now have every day as Saturday and this is just going to be
FUN!! And at my age of in excess of the national average of males.

My cost on the Omron and parts will be about $25 and any needed wire
and fitting is already in my old stock. The biggest bonus will be
that if this all works as planned will be not lighting up the
neighborhood all night long. Especially if I am on a overnight
road trip and wouldn\'t know it happened until I got home and was
informed by others of the issue.

To me it makes more sense taking on the challenge this way rather than
searching for a Motion Head that will not do it or has the ability to
program out the ability or some new fancy AI BlueTooth thingie that
will do it my way. I see that as wasting my time and it would more
than likely cost a lot more.

Again Time will Tell!!

Les

 

[ABLE1]

On 7/30/2023 8:16 PM, three_jeeps wrote:

On Saturday, July 29, 2023 at 10:21:47 AM UTC-4, ABLE1 wrote:
Hello,

I thought I would post this question here to see if someone can assist.

I have a outside flood light on the soffit at about 16 Feet AGL with
a motion sensor that is mounted at about 8 Feet AGL that is powered
24/7 from a 120VAC Switch inside the garage.

That is until Mother Nature throws a lightning bolt ⚡💥and zaps the
power off for a second or two. When that happens at night the motion
sensor head powers the lights on until I happen to notice and flip the
switch off for about 5 - 8 seconds and then all returns to normal,
otherwise the lights stay on until the Sun comes up.
Which is not needed and cranks up the electric bill!$!$!

I could tear all the Romex wiring apart, install a water proof box,
wire in a Time Delay Relay so that when the power comes back on the
Motion Head is not powered for maybe 30 seconds or so.

However, that seems like a lot of work and there should be a easier
way!!!

So, anyone have a thought or solution that would fit inside
of a 4\" Round Weather Tight Box that the Motion Head is mounted on??

Or maybe some other thoughts that would make it a simple fix??

Maybe some small Electronic Circuit thingie that would fix the problem.

Thanks for any hints.

Les
This should work:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/ICM-Controls-ICM203B-ICM203-Delay-on-Break-Timer-03-10-Minute-Knob-Adjust-Delay?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_New_users&gclid=CjwKCAjwlJimBhAsEiwA1hrp5iwaXx2qiYpvi7f-no2JczNmZznzwvodL86iaQE2bqBrwaPbXWZYDhoCdVMQAvD_BwE

Hi three_jeeps,

DRAT!! Yes that would but............... the Omron is already
on the way. For convenience and size that would do the job!!

Another day!!

Thanks for the insight, just a bit late. ;-(

Les

 

[ABLE1]

On 7/29/2023 10:21 AM, ABLE1 wrote:

Hello,

I thought I would post this question here to see if someone can assist.

I have a outside flood light on the soffit at about 16 Feet AGL with
a motion sensor that is mounted at about 8 Feet AGL that is powered
24/7 from a 120VAC Switch inside the garage.

That is until Mother Nature throws a lightning bolt ⚡💥and zaps the
power off for a second or two. When that happens at night the motion
sensor head powers the lights on until I happen to notice and flip the
switch off for about 5 - 8 seconds and then all returns to normal,
otherwise the lights stay on until the Sun comes up.
Which is not needed and cranks up the electric bill!$!$!

I could tear all the Romex wiring apart, install a water proof box,
wire in a Time Delay Relay so that when the power comes back on the
Motion Head is not powered for maybe 30 seconds or so.

However, that seems like a lot of work and there should be a easier
way!!!

So, anyone have a thought or solution that would fit inside
of a 4\" Round Weather Tight Box that the Motion Head is mounted on??

Or maybe some other thoughts that would make it a simple fix??

Maybe some small Electronic Circuit thingie that would fix the problem.

Thanks for any hints.

Les

Ok, just a FYI followup.

I received the Omron Delay Relay and YES, it did NOT fit the round
4\" box. I then picked up a plastic 4\" square box and wired all up
and set the Omron for a 1 minute delay. Placed a black sock cap over
the Motion Head (made it night time) Power up, placed the motion sensor
in test mode. Light came on and placed back to 3 minutes on timer.
After 3 minutes the lights went off.

Then I did a short power blip test off/on.

It took a minute for the light to come on and then off in about 10
seconds which is what it does on normal a power up.

Sooooooo the Omron Delay Timer does work as desired!! YEA!!

Thanks to all for your hints, suggestions and \"otherwise\"!!

Les

 

[ehsjr]

On 8/6/2023 4:39 PM, ABLE1 wrote:

On 7/29/2023 10:21 AM, ABLE1 wrote:
Hello,

I thought I would post this question here to see if someone can assist.

I have a outside flood light on the soffit at about 16 Feet AGL with
a motion sensor that is mounted at about 8 Feet AGL that is powered
24/7 from a 120VAC Switch inside the garage.

That is until Mother Nature throws a lightning bolt ⚡💥and zaps the
power off for a second or two. When that happens at night the motion
sensor head powers the lights on until I happen to notice and flip the
switch off for about 5 - 8 seconds and then all returns to normal,
otherwise the lights stay on until the Sun comes up.
Which is not needed and cranks up the electric bill!$!$!

I could tear all the Romex wiring apart, install a water proof box,
wire in a Time Delay Relay so that when the power comes back on the
Motion Head is not powered for maybe 30 seconds or so.

However, that seems like a lot of work and there should be a easier
way!!!

So, anyone have a thought or solution that would fit inside
of a 4\" Round Weather Tight Box that the Motion Head is mounted on??

Or maybe some other thoughts that would make it a simple fix??

Maybe some small Electronic Circuit thingie that would fix the problem.

Thanks for any hints.

Les

Ok, just a FYI followup.

I received the Omron Delay Relay and YES, it did NOT fit the round
4\" box.  I then picked up a plastic 4\" square box and wired all up
and set the Omron for a 1 minute delay.  Placed a black sock cap over
the Motion Head (made it night time) Power up, placed the motion sensor
in test mode.  Light came on and placed back to 3 minutes on timer.
After 3 minutes the lights went off.

Then I did a short power blip test off/on.

It took a minute for the light to come on and then off in about 10
seconds which is what it does on normal a power up.

Sooooooo the Omron Delay Timer does work as desired!!  YEA!!

Thanks to all for your hints, suggestions and \"otherwise\"!!

Les

I\'m glad you got it working as you want it. It\'s a clever
approach.

There is another way, but it is limited to those who
have experience in electronics, and it is limited to
only those motion sensors that can be accessed without
destroying the assembly. In addition it applies to a
specific type of circuit that you must be able to
identify based on inspection. (It would be a whole
bunch easier if you had a schematic, but that is
extremely unlikely.)

The method: find the latch circuit and defeat it. In
the one I have it is two transistors. Adding a 6.8K
resistor from the base of one of them to ground was
all I had to do. All functions work as normal, except
that a brief power loss does not \"program\" the lights
to be always on.

If it was easy to do, I would recommend it.
I do not recommend it.

It was, however, and interesting challenge.

Ed

 

[ABLE1]

On 8/11/2023 9:46 PM, ehsjr wrote:

On 8/6/2023 4:39 PM, ABLE1 wrote:
On 7/29/2023 10:21 AM, ABLE1 wrote:
Hello,

I thought I would post this question here to see if someone can assist.

I have a outside flood light on the soffit at about 16 Feet AGL with
a motion sensor that is mounted at about 8 Feet AGL that is powered
24/7 from a 120VAC Switch inside the garage.


I\'m glad you got it working as you want it. It\'s a clever
approach.

There is another way, but it is limited to those who
have experience in electronics, and it is limited to
only those motion sensors that can be accessed without
destroying the assembly. In addition it applies to a
specific type of circuit that you must be able to
identify based on inspection.  (It would be a whole
bunch easier if you had a schematic, but that is
extremely unlikely.)

The method: find the latch circuit and defeat it. In
the one I have it is two transistors. Adding a 6.8K
resistor from the base of one of them to ground was
all I had to do. All functions work as normal, except
that a brief power loss does not \"program\" the lights
to be always on.

If it was easy to do, I would recommend it.
I do not recommend it.

It was, however, and interesting challenge.

Ed

Thanks ehsjr,

However, with no actual easy access to the internal working of the
motion head, not having any schematics, not having any thing to see
or play with, none (I repeat, NONE) of that will ever happen!!

Besides, my solution to fix the issue is working as I designed it.

I am very happy with my back door fix!!

Thanks again for your nice comments!!

I am glad your solution worked for you!!

Les