Thoughts / knowledge on toroidal coil winding

N

N_Cook

Guest
I've now tried both (hand winding) methods , hours and hours later decided
some improvenment in technique is required if I ever try it again.
Shuttle and loading ring methods .
Loading ring is where you have a splittable ring. Shaped like a bike rim in
commercial winders, I used soome polythene pipe , cut along one side, heated
over a piece of dowel to form into a U section. Reform , taped, through the
torus and wind the required wire while through the torus.
Works but without a third hand or at least some sort of support for the
loading ring it is awkward. Another problem with it, you need a way to hold
the hank of wire on the ring without any of it coming off when the required
wire is unloading. I just used a cylinder of rubber that just about held in
place in the U, but has to be released every 5 or 6 turns. Some sort of foot
controlled motorised system to wind back the excess wire onto the loading
ring, for each manual pass of the loop through the torus, would help. The
loading ring, permanently in the central torus hole, gets in the way of
manually posistioning and tightening the turns.

Shuttle works quite well, but slowly, as I found you could only sensibly
form at most 2 turns , then 2 combined shuttle passes. I've now tried some
different ways to do say 10 shuttle passes and then return to manually
tighten all 10 in one go. It requires a way of gripping the wire after each
pass and then the next loading turn, staggered along some gripper thing
that can be removed when returning to manually form the turns proper. With
enough slack to grip and tighten but not so much as to knot-up. I tried
Hellerman sleeving , pieces of rubber, slid along a tension spring. Held the
ire well but difficult to remove the rack. Some rubber, sliced with 0.6mm
grinding wheel , alright for larger diameter wire like 1mm or more and is
easy to remove before manual stage. At the moment trying to track down some
large hook Velcro to see if that would work.
Anyone else been here before ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 
--
--
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:gs7h76$9jg$1@news.motzarella.org...
I've now tried both (hand winding) methods , hours and hours later decided
some improvenment in technique is required if I ever try it again.
Shuttle and loading ring methods .
Loading ring is where you have a splittable ring. Shaped like a bike rim
in
commercial winders, I used soome polythene pipe , cut along one side,
heated
over a piece of dowel to form into a U section. Reform , taped, through
the
torus and wind the required wire while through the torus.
Works but without a third hand or at least some sort of support for the
loading ring it is awkward. Another problem with it, you need a way to
hold
the hank of wire on the ring without any of it coming off when the
required
wire is unloading. I just used a cylinder of rubber that just about held
in
place in the U, but has to be released every 5 or 6 turns. Some sort of
foot
controlled motorised system to wind back the excess wire onto the loading
ring, for each manual pass of the loop through the torus, would help. The
loading ring, permanently in the central torus hole, gets in the way of
manually posistioning and tightening the turns.

Shuttle works quite well, but slowly, as I found you could only sensibly
form at most 2 turns , then 2 combined shuttle passes. I've now tried some
different ways to do say 10 shuttle passes and then return to manually
tighten all 10 in one go. It requires a way of gripping the wire after
each
pass and then the next loading turn, staggered along some gripper thing
that can be removed when returning to manually form the turns proper. With
enough slack to grip and tighten but not so much as to knot-up. I tried
Hellerman sleeving , pieces of rubber, slid along a tension spring. Held
the
ire well but difficult to remove the rack. Some rubber, sliced with 0.6mm
grinding wheel , alright for larger diameter wire like 1mm or more and is
easy to remove before manual stage. At the moment trying to track down
some
large hook Velcro to see if that would work.
Anyone else been here before ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Velcro would not work.
Returning to the professional approach - the loading ring. Turning the whole
thing through 90 degrees would make it much simpler. ex-VCR mode switch
motor gearing driving a spool and 2 free-running ex-vcr spools on the
inside of the polythene loading ring , fixed to the bench , rotating round
in the horizontal plane. And toroid mounted vertically. So motor drive could
be used to load up the wire initially and of course the main use, slack
take-up, on each turn. If the circumference for a wiring turn is 150mm and
the loading ring is 900 mm then to form one turn requires slipping 900 mm
off the loading ring and taking up 750mm of slack each time, and shifting
the anti-spillage bung every 6 turns.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 
Well the prototype bodged up loading ring system works upto 1.4mm diameter
wire.
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/toroid_winder.jpg
Considering using a mode switch motor+ gearbox and spools from VCRs , bits
of motorcycle inner tube, hosepipe, dictaphone footswitch and bits of Dexion
etc. Only a test run so ignore the uneven layup.
As long you start the retraction winding at the same time as slipping the
large loop of wire, then no problem with turns of wire unravelling from the
loading ring. I suppose its something you can get into the rythym of , once
practised, as it is a continuous process. As it happens the retraction
rotation speed was about right for a novice, 8 seconds for one rev of the 1
foot diameter loading ring. Loading up the ring intitially with wire, so
running the motor continuously , did not even make the motor warm. With
practise I suppose you could up the motor power and speed for faster actual
coil wind. I would not fancy making the hook transfer system and tensioned
forming system to fully automate.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 

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