TECO/Relisys TE772B intermittently loses blue when hot

C

CL

Guest
I have 2 TECO/Relisys TE772B 17" monitors that intermittently lose blue
when hot, i.e., white pix turns green. Self-test image with the three
vertical color bars on white background continues to be OK. Any
suggestion will be appreciated. Thanks.
 
CL <chassleeSPAM@comcastSPAM.net> wrote in message news:<3FA3F82E.58F464AE@comcastSPAM.net>...
I have 2 TECO/Relisys TE772B 17" monitors that intermittently lose blue
when hot, i.e., white pix turns green. Self-test image with the three
vertical color bars on white background continues to be OK. Any
suggestion will be appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...
The must common faults of a missing color are:
1. A break in the color video signal wire within the video cable.
This usually occurs near the end that connects to the computer.
Try bending the cable and see if the color comes back.
You can purchase new 15 pin ends at Radio Shack and solder a new
end on the cable.
2. A bad solder connection at the socket where the CRT circuit board
plugs onto the back of the picture tube. Just resolder the connections.
3. A bad video driver transistor or driver IC that supplies the color
signals to the picture tube. Measure the voltages on the three color
signal connections on the picture tube socket. The missing one will
usually be very different.
Hope this helps.....
John
 
Thank you for the tips. I'll try to perform the checks that you suggested. Does anyone have any
experience specifically with this model?

John Gill wrote:

CL <chassleeSPAM@comcastSPAM.net> wrote in message news:<3FA3F82E.58F464AE@comcastSPAM.net>...
I have 2 TECO/Relisys TE772B 17" monitors that intermittently lose blue
when hot, i.e., white pix turns green. Self-test image with the three
vertical color bars on white background continues to be OK. Any
suggestion will be appreciated. Thanks.

The must common faults of a missing color are:
1. A break in the color video signal wire within the video cable.
This usually occurs near the end that connects to the computer.
Try bending the cable and see if the color comes back.
You can purchase new 15 pin ends at Radio Shack and solder a new
end on the cable.
2. A bad solder connection at the socket where the CRT circuit board
plugs onto the back of the picture tube. Just resolder the connections.
3. A bad video driver transistor or driver IC that supplies the color
signals to the picture tube. Measure the voltages on the three color
signal connections on the picture tube socket. The missing one will
usually be very different.
Hope this helps.....
John
Click to expand...
 
CL <chassleeSPAM@comcastSPAM.net> wrote in message news:<3FA3F82E.58F464AE@comcastSPAM.net>...
I have 2 TECO/Relisys TE772B 17" monitors that intermittently lose blue
when hot, i.e., white pix turns green. Self-test image with the three
vertical color bars on white background continues to be OK. Any
suggestion will be appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...
I had the same fault; it turned out to be a dry joint on capacitor
C206 which is along side the TDA4885 chip. It may also be wise to
re-solder the connections at the top socket. This is the plug attached
to the input cable. All these are fitted to the tube base. You will
need to remove the metal screening from the tube base to re-solder
these connections.
Good luck.
 
Thanks for the tip. I'll check for dry joints. I have another one of these monitors with a B+
regulation problem. The voltage goes too high making the HV too high which causes a shutdown. Any
ideas on where in the power supply to look? I have not been able to find a schematic.Thanks.

Alyn wrote:

CL <chassleeSPAM@comcastSPAM.net> wrote in message news:<3FA3F82E.58F464AE@comcastSPAM.net>...
I have 2 TECO/Relisys TE772B 17" monitors that intermittently lose blue
when hot, i.e., white pix turns green. Self-test image with the three
vertical color bars on white background continues to be OK. Any
suggestion will be appreciated. Thanks.

I had the same fault; it turned out to be a dry joint on capacitor
C206 which is along side the TDA4885 chip. It may also be wise to
re-solder the connections at the top socket. This is the plug attached
to the input cable. All these are fitted to the tube base. You will
need to remove the metal screening from the tube base to re-solder
these connections.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
 
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