N
N_Cook
Guest
A bag of bits to deal with , someone thought epoxying a SM switch back onto
the pcb was enough and then could not reassemble the Chinese block puzzle. I
managed to work out how to get the meshes back into the mic housings and the
2-mic cross- yoke assembly back into the main body, despite never seeing the
original disassembly sequence. As the usual incompetent "designer" , no
point in replacing as "designed". This sw is only soldered at the usual SM 3
miniscule pads to the pcb with no extra moulding around it to resist any
excessive finger pressure.
So come flat battery and nothing at switch on , the usual owner thought
process is press the button harder.
Oddly there is quite a bit of space to play with and a larger switch can go
in there , mechanically decoupled from the pcb via 3 wires of course, but
I'm wondering what sort of fixing. 2 screws through the body to properly
anchor some mount behind a bigger more conventional stemmed click switch ?
the pcb was enough and then could not reassemble the Chinese block puzzle. I
managed to work out how to get the meshes back into the mic housings and the
2-mic cross- yoke assembly back into the main body, despite never seeing the
original disassembly sequence. As the usual incompetent "designer" , no
point in replacing as "designed". This sw is only soldered at the usual SM 3
miniscule pads to the pcb with no extra moulding around it to resist any
excessive finger pressure.
So come flat battery and nothing at switch on , the usual owner thought
process is press the button harder.
Oddly there is quite a bit of space to play with and a larger switch can go
in there , mechanically decoupled from the pcb via 3 wires of course, but
I'm wondering what sort of fixing. 2 screws through the body to properly
anchor some mount behind a bigger more conventional stemmed click switch ?