SS Laser

G

GregS

Guest
Fooling with a laser. I need to hook up some fancy controllers.
Looks like a thermistor in there with currently broken leads.
I wanted to see how much heat a 400-500 mw would generate, and
I guess its about that. I found the peltier element cooling backwards, but
then I thought its probably trying to heat up the laser which I had disconnected.
I should try it with the thermistor hooked up. Got some Newport equipment
to hook, and aparently there is no other feedback photodiode. That was
my main concern at this point.

greg
 
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

Fooling with a laser. I need to hook up some fancy controllers.
Looks like a thermistor in there with currently broken leads.
I wanted to see how much heat a 400-500 mw would generate, and
I guess its about that. I found the peltier element cooling backwards, but
then I thought its probably trying to heat up the laser which I had disconnected.
I should try it with the thermistor hooked up. Got some Newport equipment
to hook, and aparently there is no other feedback photodiode. That was
my main concern at this point.
Click to expand...
Huh? :)

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 16:53:45 GMT, zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com
(GregS)wrote:

Fooling with a laser. I need to hook up some fancy controllers.
Looks like a thermistor in there with currently broken leads.
I wanted to see how much heat a 400-500 mw would generate, and
I guess its about that. I found the peltier element cooling backwards, but
then I thought its probably trying to heat up the laser which I had disconnected.
I should try it with the thermistor hooked up. Got some Newport equipment
to hook, and aparently there is no other feedback photodiode. That was
my main concern at this point.

greg
Click to expand...
Google 'laser hacking'
 
In article <4ou6bdzm.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

Fooling with a laser. I need to hook up some fancy controllers.
Looks like a thermistor in there with currently broken leads.
I wanted to see how much heat a 400-500 mw would generate, and
I guess its about that. I found the peltier element cooling backwards, but
then I thought its probably trying to heat up the laser which I had
disconnected.
I should try it with the thermistor hooked up. Got some Newport equipment
to hook, and aparently there is no other feedback photodiode. That was
my main concern at this point.

Huh? :)
Click to expand...
Well I wanted to get comments on laser opperating temperature.
I know another unit warmed up the laser before it turned
on. I had to first check out the wiring to see what kind of configuration
it had. I really don'e want to take the laser assembly apart
because not sure how it assembled. I was tring to get some kind
of part number off the laser. The cheap units have too much noise.
The end result is to get a brighter laser later with possible slightly
different wavelength and use these controllers. Right now this is just a test.


greg
 
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

In article <4ou6bdzm.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

Fooling with a laser. I need to hook up some fancy controllers.
Looks like a thermistor in there with currently broken leads.
I wanted to see how much heat a 400-500 mw would generate, and
I guess its about that. I found the peltier element cooling backwards, but
then I thought its probably trying to heat up the laser which I had
disconnected.
I should try it with the thermistor hooked up. Got some Newport equipment
to hook, and aparently there is no other feedback photodiode. That was
my main concern at this point.

Huh? :)

Well I wanted to get comments on laser opperating temperature.
I know another unit warmed up the laser before it turned
on. I had to first check out the wiring to see what kind of configuration
it had. I really don'e want to take the laser assembly apart
because not sure how it assembled. I was tring to get some kind
of part number off the laser. The cheap units have too much noise.
The end result is to get a brighter laser later with possible slightly
different wavelength and use these controllers. Right now this is just a
test.
Click to expand...
But your question and even your "clarifiation" is along the lines of:
"I have a 4 wheeled vehicle that doesn't quit run right. What temperature
should the flux capacitor run at." :)

Type of laser, make/model, pumping method, power output, wavelength,
CW, pulsed, Q-switched, etc.

I kind of assume it's CW, 400-500 mW output, "SS" to me means "solid state",
but that covers a lot of ground!

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
In article <3a9psddz.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

In article <4ou6bdzm.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M.
Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

Fooling with a laser. I need to hook up some fancy controllers.
Looks like a thermistor in there with currently broken leads.
I wanted to see how much heat a 400-500 mw would generate, and
I guess its about that. I found the peltier element cooling backwards, but
then I thought its probably trying to heat up the laser which I had
disconnected.
I should try it with the thermistor hooked up. Got some Newport equipment
to hook, and aparently there is no other feedback photodiode. That was
my main concern at this point.

Huh? :)

Well I wanted to get comments on laser opperating temperature.
I know another unit warmed up the laser before it turned
on. I had to first check out the wiring to see what kind of configuration
it had. I really don'e want to take the laser assembly apart
because not sure how it assembled. I was tring to get some kind
of part number off the laser. The cheap units have too much noise.
The end result is to get a brighter laser later with possible slightly
different wavelength and use these controllers. Right now this is just a
test.

But your question and even your "clarifiation" is along the lines of:
"I have a 4 wheeled vehicle that doesn't quit run right. What temperature
should the flux capacitor run at." :)
Click to expand...

That would be a good way to start a discussion or at least create interest.

Type of laser, make/model, pumping method, power output, wavelength,
CW, pulsed, Q-switched, etc.
Click to expand...
Would be nice if I knew. That might make things simpler.
Model # its of of those GLS LAser Systems types that does
not seem to have an address.
http://cgi.ebay.com.my/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190285161438

This was just a test laser. I have these types controllers to hook up
to it and future stuff.
http://www.newport.com/High-Power-Laser-Diode-Control-Kits/560223/1033/catalog.aspx


I kind of assume it's CW, 400-500 mW output, "SS" to me means "solid state",
but that covers a lot of ground!
Click to expand...
Thats what I meant.
 
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

In article <3a9psddz.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

In article <4ou6bdzm.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M.
Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

Fooling with a laser. I need to hook up some fancy controllers.
Looks like a thermistor in there with currently broken leads.
I wanted to see how much heat a 400-500 mw would generate, and
I guess its about that. I found the peltier element cooling backwards, but
then I thought its probably trying to heat up the laser which I had
disconnected.
I should try it with the thermistor hooked up. Got some Newport equipment
to hook, and aparently there is no other feedback photodiode. That was
my main concern at this point.

Huh? :)

Well I wanted to get comments on laser opperating temperature.
I know another unit warmed up the laser before it turned
on. I had to first check out the wiring to see what kind of configuration
it had. I really don'e want to take the laser assembly apart
because not sure how it assembled. I was tring to get some kind
of part number off the laser. The cheap units have too much noise.
The end result is to get a brighter laser later with possible slightly
different wavelength and use these controllers. Right now this is just a
test.

But your question and even your "clarifiation" is along the lines of:
"I have a 4 wheeled vehicle that doesn't quit run right. What temperature
should the flux capacitor run at." :)


That would be a good way to start a discussion or at least create interest.

Type of laser, make/model, pumping method, power output, wavelength,
CW, pulsed, Q-switched, etc.

Would be nice if I knew. That might make things simpler.
Model # its of of those GLS LAser Systems types that does
not seem to have an address.
http://cgi.ebay.com.my/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190285161438

This was just a test laser. I have these types controllers to hook up
to it and future stuff.
http://www.newport.com/High-Power-Laser-Diode-Control-Kits/560223/1033/catalog.aspx

I kind of assume it's CW, 400-500 mW output, "SS" to me means "solid state",
but that covers a lot of ground!

Thats what I meant.
Click to expand...
How many TECs does it have?

Cheap lasers will have a single TEC for the entire laser.

Better ones will have one TEC for the pump diode and another
for the laser cavity.

Can you identify the type of pump diode? One thing you do need to know is
the maximum current the pump diode can safely handle.

What is the rated output of the laser head? NOT the CDRH sticker
value, but the spec'd value?

But then, it's really a matter of searching for the "sweet" spot
by adjusting the temperatures of the pump diode and laser cavity
if it has two TECs. If it only has one, then you're much more
limited and simply have to find a compromise where you get
maximum power at a given pump current.

The safe temperature range is between 10degC and 30degC for the
pump diode, maybe going to 40degC for the cavity. The best
performance should be somewhere within that range.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
In article <y6rhqhl7.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

In article <3a9psddz.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M.
Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

In article <4ou6bdzm.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M.
Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

Fooling with a laser. I need to hook up some fancy controllers.
Looks like a thermistor in there with currently broken leads.
I wanted to see how much heat a 400-500 mw would generate, and
I guess its about that. I found the peltier element cooling backwards,
but
then I thought its probably trying to heat up the laser which I had
disconnected.
I should try it with the thermistor hooked up. Got some Newport
equipment
to hook, and aparently there is no other feedback photodiode. That was
my main concern at this point.

Huh? :)

Well I wanted to get comments on laser opperating temperature.
I know another unit warmed up the laser before it turned
on. I had to first check out the wiring to see what kind of configuration
it had. I really don'e want to take the laser assembly apart
because not sure how it assembled. I was tring to get some kind
of part number off the laser. The cheap units have too much noise.
The end result is to get a brighter laser later with possible slightly
different wavelength and use these controllers. Right now this is just a
test.

But your question and even your "clarifiation" is along the lines of:
"I have a 4 wheeled vehicle that doesn't quit run right. What temperature
should the flux capacitor run at." :)


That would be a good way to start a discussion or at least create interest.

Type of laser, make/model, pumping method, power output, wavelength,
CW, pulsed, Q-switched, etc.

Would be nice if I knew. That might make things simpler.
Model # its of of those GLS LAser Systems types that does
not seem to have an address.
http://cgi.ebay.com.my/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190285161438

This was just a test laser. I have these types controllers to hook up
to it and future stuff.

http://www.newport.com/High-Power-Laser-Diode-Control-Kits/560223/1033/catalog
.aspx

I kind of assume it's CW, 400-500 mW output, "SS" to me means "solid state",
but that covers a lot of ground!

Thats what I meant.

How many TECs does it have?

Cheap lasers will have a single TEC for the entire laser.

Better ones will have one TEC for the pump diode and another
for the laser cavity.

Can you identify the type of pump diode? One thing you do need to know is
the maximum current the pump diode can safely handle.

What is the rated output of the laser head? NOT the CDRH sticker
value, but the spec'd value?

But then, it's really a matter of searching for the "sweet" spot
by adjusting the temperatures of the pump diode and laser cavity
if it has two TECs. If it only has one, then you're much more
limited and simply have to find a compromise where you get
maximum power at a given pump current.

The safe temperature range is between 10degC and 30degC for the
pump diode, maybe going to 40degC for the cavity. The best
performance should be somewhere within that range.
Click to expand...
Allright, I'm still trying to figure what TEC stands for. But, you have supplied
some good info to start. I still do not want to take the assembly
apart to see the parts. I don't know if it glued or screwed. The lens
is screwed and glued, but I don't want to fool with the focus
right now. I don't know if I can measure the laser current, but
I think I will try, and get all the current parameters before hooking
up the other controllers.

The opperating temperature of the current laser is above room
temperature.

greg
 
In article <h1vtt1$p9n$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>, zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote:
In article <y6rhqhl7.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M.
Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

Inembly
apart to see the parts. I don't know if it glued or screwed. The lens
is screwed and glued, but I don't want to fool with the focus
right now. I don't know if I can measure the laser current, but
I think I will try, and get all the current parameters before hooking
up the other controllers.

The opperating temperature of the current laser is above room
temperature.
Click to expand...

Current conditions.

29 deg C
2 A
1.78 v
1.49 v idle

greg
 
In article <h200kg$q6a$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>, zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote:
In article <h1vtt1$p9n$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>, zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com
(GregS) wrote:
In article <y6rhqhl7.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M.
Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

Inembly
apart to see the parts. I don't know if it glued or screwed. The lens
is screwed and glued, but I don't want to fool with the focus
right now. I don't know if I can measure the laser current, but
I think I will try, and get all the current parameters before hooking
up the other controllers.

The opperating temperature of the current laser is above room
temperature.


Current conditions.

29 deg C
2 A
1.78 v
1.49 v idle
Click to expand...

Its working with the new controllers. I didn't need to know much
other than what the previous settings were. If I were selecting
a new diode, then I should know a lot more.

greg
 
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

In article <h200kg$q6a$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>, zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote:
In article <h1vtt1$p9n$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>, zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com
(GregS) wrote:
In article <y6rhqhl7.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M.
Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

Inembly
apart to see the parts. I don't know if it glued or screwed. The lens
is screwed and glued, but I don't want to fool with the focus
right now. I don't know if I can measure the laser current, but
I think I will try, and get all the current parameters before hooking
up the other controllers.

The opperating temperature of the current laser is above room
temperature.


Current conditions.

29 deg C
2 A
1.78 v
1.49 v idle


Its working with the new controllers. I didn't need to know much
other than what the previous settings were. If I were selecting
a new diode, then I should know a lot more.
Click to expand...
You can safely adjust the temperature to see if that gets more
output power but you should NOT increase the diode current beyond
what it is now.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
In article <7hyzew8m.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

In article <h200kg$q6a$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>,
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote:
In article <h1vtt1$p9n$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>,
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com
(GregS) wrote:
In article <y6rhqhl7.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M.
Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

Inembly
apart to see the parts. I don't know if it glued or screwed. The lens
is screwed and glued, but I don't want to fool with the focus
right now. I don't know if I can measure the laser current, but
I think I will try, and get all the current parameters before hooking
up the other controllers.

The opperating temperature of the current laser is above room
temperature.


Current conditions.

29 deg C
2 A
1.78 v
1.49 v idle


Its working with the new controllers. I didn't need to know much
other than what the previous settings were. If I were selecting
a new diode, then I should know a lot more.

You can safely adjust the temperature to see if that gets more
output power but you should NOT increase the diode current beyond
what it is now.
Click to expand...
According to the researcher, they need more power for the confocal device.

greg
 
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

In article <7hyzew8m.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

In article <h200kg$q6a$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>,
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote:
In article <h1vtt1$p9n$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>,
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com
(GregS) wrote:
In article <y6rhqhl7.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M.
Goldwasser) wrote:
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:

Inembly
apart to see the parts. I don't know if it glued or screwed. The lens
is screwed and glued, but I don't want to fool with the focus
right now. I don't know if I can measure the laser current, but
I think I will try, and get all the current parameters before hooking
up the other controllers.

The opperating temperature of the current laser is above room
temperature.


Current conditions.

29 deg C
2 A
1.78 v
1.49 v idle


Its working with the new controllers. I didn't need to know much
other than what the previous settings were. If I were selecting
a new diode, then I should know a lot more.

You can safely adjust the temperature to see if that gets more
output power but you should NOT increase the diode current beyond
what it is now.

According to the researcher, they need more power for the confocal device.
Click to expand...
Doesn't matter. Unless you know for sure that the pump diode can
take higher current, you may end up with an output of exactly 0.0 mW.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
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