Sony KV-36V32 Horiz problem; experienced only please

[Cher]

I have a KV-36V32. It has a problem similar to a few other posts
Let me describe it to you. If you have seen it maybe you can help.

From cold start everything is fine. After a while it appears as if
there is an intermittent short in the horiz yoke. The pic is fine at
the top. 2/3 down the scan lines taper vertically from the sides and
are random length. The pic will eventually go dark but the sound will
remain on. There is no audible arcing sound, but then my hearing ain't
what it used to be.

If I tap ANYWHERE on ANY circuit board I can create the problem within
30 seconds after a cold start. It is not sensitive to moving the ckt
bd, only tapping on it or a component.

I tried this VERY carefully in an attempt to localize it but it
appears equally sensitive anyplace and on any component including the
FBT, the PS bd, the front panel button bd, and even the HV anode lead
near the FBT

There is no sensitivity on the CRT or the video drive BD on the pic
neck.

A last clue. Sometimes when is reacts it will do so with a total red
screen (as in a CRT screen short or a loss of screen volts on the red
gun), but it does not shut down.

It does get more sensitive the longer it is on, requiring lighter taps
to cause it to happen.

My guess is that a component has a mechanical defect that actually has
a resonant frequency causing it to react to any vibrations (tapping)
which is why the part does not need a direct hit.

Maybe the red screen will point to the right part, but I don't have a
schem.

Thanks

bill

 

[LASERandDVDfan]

What about just checking around for any cold solder joints?

Sony TVs are great, but they can have a problem with solder joints rather
quickly as they don't seem to solder all the joints adequately enough at the
factory. (Blasted wave soldering) - Reinhart

 

[RonKZ650]

What about just checking around for any cold solder joints?

Sony TVs are great, but they can have a problem with solder joints rather
quickly as they don't seem to solder all the joints adequately enough at the
factory. (Blasted wave soldering) - Reinhart

Yes, It sounds like the common bad solder connections on the vertical output IC
trick.
Ron

 

[Sofie]

Cher/Bill:
"experienced only please" ????? ......don't get too picky when asking
for free advice...... you can always pick and chose to read and heed the
replies you deem worthy.
As the other reply posts suggested, I would place my bet on cold, cracked,
dry, or otherwise faulty solder connections .... especially near an around
the high heat producing parts such as power resistors, diodes, power
transistors, power IC chips, and other parts such as the HOT, H Driver xfmr,
flyback, etc,etc....... a very careful visual inspection is required.....
along with a strong light, good eyes, and maybe the help of a maganfying
glass.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
------------------------


"Cher" <ccher@your.place> wrote in message
news:gcqq20pi2mdn8rsaspq317sf3t9k9k4lnl@4ax.com...

I have a KV-36V32. It has a problem similar to a few other posts
Let me describe it to you. If you have seen it maybe you can help.

From cold start everything is fine. After a while it appears as if
there is an intermittent short in the horiz yoke. The pic is fine at
the top. 2/3 down the scan lines taper vertically from the sides and
are random length. The pic will eventually go dark but the sound will
remain on. There is no audible arcing sound, but then my hearing ain't
what it used to be.

If I tap ANYWHERE on ANY circuit board I can create the problem within
30 seconds after a cold start. It is not sensitive to moving the ckt
bd, only tapping on it or a component.

I tried this VERY carefully in an attempt to localize it but it
appears equally sensitive anyplace and on any component including the
FBT, the PS bd, the front panel button bd, and even the HV anode lead
near the FBT

There is no sensitivity on the CRT or the video drive BD on the pic
neck.

A last clue. Sometimes when is reacts it will do so with a total red
screen (as in a CRT screen short or a loss of screen volts on the red
gun), but it does not shut down.

It does get more sensitive the longer it is on, requiring lighter taps
to cause it to happen.

My guess is that a component has a mechanical defect that actually has
a resonant frequency causing it to react to any vibrations (tapping)
which is why the part does not need a direct hit.

Maybe the red screen will point to the right part, but I don't have a
schem.

Thanks

bill

 

[john]

Humm!!

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"Cher" <ccher@your.place> wrote in message
news:gcqq20pi2mdn8rsaspq317sf3t9k9k4lnl@4ax.com...

I have a KV-36V32. It has a problem similar to a few other posts
Let me describe it to you. If you have seen it maybe you can help.

From cold start everything is fine. After a while it appears as if
there is an intermittent short in the horiz yoke. The pic is fine at
the top. 2/3 down the scan lines taper vertically from the sides and
are random length. The pic will eventually go dark but the sound will
remain on. There is no audible arcing sound, but then my hearing ain't
what it used to be.

If I tap ANYWHERE on ANY circuit board I can create the problem within
30 seconds after a cold start. It is not sensitive to moving the ckt
bd, only tapping on it or a component.

I tried this VERY carefully in an attempt to localize it but it
appears equally sensitive anyplace and on any component including the
FBT, the PS bd, the front panel button bd, and even the HV anode lead
near the FBT

There is no sensitivity on the CRT or the video drive BD on the pic
neck.

A last clue. Sometimes when is reacts it will do so with a total red
screen (as in a CRT screen short or a loss of screen volts on the red
gun), but it does not shut down.

It does get more sensitive the longer it is on, requiring lighter taps
to cause it to happen.

My guess is that a component has a mechanical defect that actually has
a resonant frequency causing it to react to any vibrations (tapping)
which is why the part does not need a direct hit.

Maybe the red screen will point to the right part, but I don't have a
schem.

Thanks

bill

 

[Cher]

I knew I forgot to mention something.

That was the first thing I did was to pull all the boards and give
them a careful inspection re cold solders. The only ones I found were
on the video in (or out) connectors on the front panel bd. due to
excessive mechanical movement.

But I am confused as to why one would point to the VERTICAL OUTPUT IC.
This is a horizontal issue - trapazoid top to bottom.

The reason for the "experience only" is because I figure if you
haven't seen this and found the problem there is no way you can point
me.

If it were a cold solder it should be more sensitive to tapping the
closer I tapped to the defect. That isn't the case. It should also
react when the PCB is just deflected instead of tapped - it doesn't.

any more ideas.

thanks



On Sat, 14 Feb 2004 00:42:21 GMT, Cher <ccher@your.place> wrote:

I have a KV-36V32. It has a problem similar to a few other posts
Let me describe it to you. If you have seen it maybe you can help.

From cold start everything is fine. After a while it appears as if
there is an intermittent short in the horiz yoke. The pic is fine at
the top. 2/3 down the scan lines taper vertically from the sides and
are random length. The pic will eventually go dark but the sound will
remain on. There is no audible arcing sound, but then my hearing ain't
what it used to be.

If I tap ANYWHERE on ANY circuit board I can create the problem within
30 seconds after a cold start. It is not sensitive to moving the ckt
bd, only tapping on it or a component.

I tried this VERY carefully in an attempt to localize it but it
appears equally sensitive anyplace and on any component including the
FBT, the PS bd, the front panel button bd, and even the HV anode lead
near the FBT

There is no sensitivity on the CRT or the video drive BD on the pic
neck.

A last clue. Sometimes when is reacts it will do so with a total red
screen (as in a CRT screen short or a loss of screen volts on the red
gun), but it does not shut down.

It does get more sensitive the longer it is on, requiring lighter taps
to cause it to happen.

My guess is that a component has a mechanical defect that actually has
a resonant frequency causing it to react to any vibrations (tapping)
which is why the part does not need a direct hit.

Maybe the red screen will point to the right part, but I don't have a
schem.

Thanks

bill

 

[Cher]

sorry KV 32V26 is the correct model.

 

[john]

Hummm
!!

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"Cher" <ccher@your.place> wrote in message
news:aadv205db5h23pvvqt54jn1ve3c8njfg2a@4ax.com...

sorry KV 32V26 is the correct model.

 

[Sofie]

kip....
that is now the 2nd time you posted you troubleshooting hint without a
taker...... if you are not "experienced" please do not post again. LOL
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
-------------------------------



"john" <va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote in message
news:newscache$oji5th$01h$1@newsfeed.niagara.com...

Hummm
!!

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"Cher" <ccher@your.place> wrote in message
news:aadv205db5h23pvvqt54jn1ve3c8njfg2a@4ax.com...
sorry KV 32V26 is the correct model.

 

[john]

Actually I laugh when a layman
wants experienced advise only.
As far as me being "experienced"
Yes 36 yrs how about you ?

kip
--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"Sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:1030bnu6l0ip69@corp.supernews.com...

kip....
that is now the 2nd time you posted you troubleshooting hint without a
taker...... if you are not "experienced" please do not post again. LOL
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
-------------------------------



"john" <va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote in message
news:newscache$oji5th$01h$1@newsfeed.niagara.com...

Hummm
!!

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"Cher" <ccher@your.place> wrote in message
news:aadv205db5h23pvvqt54jn1ve3c8njfg2a@4ax.com...
sorry KV 32V26 is the correct model.

 

[Cher]

Thanks for the advice John, but I don't think I qualify as a layman.
I owned a shop fixing anything that walked in (TV, Stereo, CB, VHF,
CATV, Instruments, etc.) and as an engineer I managed 25 techs
repairing any kind of industrial control equipment you can think of.
I've repaired more different types of equipment than you have
different manufacturers of home electronics. I have one of the first
issued ET licenses in the state of NH with a radar endorcement, I have
my FCC General class license. I repaired eletronic warfare equipment
in the Army and obtained a P2 (highest) proficiency.

I am fully aware of what a problem like this involves and I ask for
experience for that reason. With my experience, I couldn't tell you to
do any more than I have done and it won't point me in a definitive
direction. You have to have experienced it to help.

It appears that no one has expereinced it, so a part by part
replacement seems like the only thing to solve it. Since it is my
freinds TV, I guess I won't be doing that.

Thanks again.


On Mon, 16 Feb 2004 07:15:32 -0500, "john"
<va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote:

Actually I laugh when a layman
wants experienced advise only.
As far as me being "experienced"
Yes 36 yrs how about you ?

kip

 

[Sofie]

Cher or should I say, Bill:
Please save the posturing for another time and/or another newsgroup..... a
"pissing" contest with the experienced regulars (like Kip and others) on
this newsgroup is not going to get you the repair suggestions you are
seeking.
Now, back to your original post.....
Because of the intermittent nature of the symptoms as you described with
such detail..... I still suspect cold solder connections as indicated in my
previous reply post to you (also this was suggested by two other experienced
techs, RonKZ650 and LASERandDVDfan)...... or the culprit could be hard to
find cracked pcb traces. Many models of Sony televisions can be notorious
for cold solder joints and of course any brand can have cracked pcb
traces.... many times very difficult to find..... microscopic cracks in
the traces can be responsible for the exact intermittent symptoms you
described as the board is tapped, flexed, heated, etc ..... a strong light
shining through from the opposite side of the board might allow you to view
the traces and reveal any cracks especially around large assemblies like the
flyback, other transformers, large components like big electrolytics, heat
sinks, connectors, etc..... anything that can flex because of vibration and
anything that is stressed by heat. Also you should suspect any filtering
or bypass electrolytics..... they can become intermittent and cause similar
symptoms....... try to localize any tapping or heating to those kinds of
suspected components......
I know that you have already tried and failed to localize the problem but
try again, this time focusing on selected areas of the circuitry... starting
with power supply B+ distribution and flyback derived B+ sources.... if
you still have an oscilloscope from your "old" service days you might be
best advised to hook up your scope probes and monitor the ripple and
regulation of those distribution rails to see if they change with the
symptoms you described...... this just may help you to pinpoint the problem
area of circuitry.
Good luck in your troubleshooting effort and keep us informed.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
-------------------------------


original posting with
"Cher" <ccher@your.place> wrote in message
news:u9q530tb03s37n74hp3r1llvq4vkhgi6ts@4ax.com...

Thanks for the advice John, but I don't think I qualify as a layman.
I owned a shop fixing anything that walked in (TV, Stereo, CB, VHF,
CATV, Instruments, etc.) and as an engineer I managed 25 techs
repairing any kind of industrial control equipment you can think of.
I've repaired more different types of equipment than you have
different manufacturers of home electronics. I have one of the first
issued ET licenses in the state of NH with a radar endorcement, I have
my FCC General class license. I repaired eletronic warfare equipment
in the Army and obtained a P2 (highest) proficiency.

I am fully aware of what a problem like this involves and I ask for
experience for that reason. With my experience, I couldn't tell you to
do any more than I have done and it won't point me in a definitive
direction. You have to have experienced it to help.

It appears that no one has expereinced it, so a part by part
replacement seems like the only thing to solve it. Since it is my
freinds TV, I guess I won't be doing that.

Thanks again.


On Mon, 16 Feb 2004 07:15:32 -0500, "john"
va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote:

Actually I laugh when a layman
wants experienced advise only.
As far as me being "experienced"
Yes 36 yrs how about you ?

kip

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

"Cher" <ccher@your.place> wrote in message
news:u9q530tb03s37n74hp3r1llvq4vkhgi6ts@4ax.com...

Thanks for the advice John, but I don't think I qualify as a layman.
I owned a shop fixing anything that walked in (TV, Stereo, CB, VHF,
CATV, Instruments, etc.) and as an engineer I managed 25 techs
repairing any kind of industrial control equipment you can think of.
I've repaired more different types of equipment than you have
different manufacturers of home electronics. I have one of the first
issued ET licenses in the state of NH with a radar endorcement, I have
my FCC General class license. I repaired eletronic warfare equipment
in the Army and obtained a P2 (highest) proficiency.

I am fully aware of what a problem like this involves and I ask for
experience for that reason. With my experience, I couldn't tell you to
do any more than I have done and it won't point me in a definitive
direction. You have to have experienced it to help.

It appears that no one has expereinced it, so a part by part
replacement seems like the only thing to solve it. Since it is my
freinds TV, I guess I won't be doing that.

Ever consider a few minutes of skilled troubleshooting? With the experience
you have you should be able to do so. With the experience that has been
offered in this group and a little troubleshooting you could probably solve
the problem.

Leonard Caillouet

 

[john]

Gee !!
You should be able to troubleshoot the TV with your eyes shut.
What iam saying here is that maybe a unexperienced person
might have been able to help you.

kip



--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"Cher" <ccher@your.place> wrote in message
news:u9q530tb03s37n74hp3r1llvq4vkhgi6ts@4ax.com...

Thanks for the advice John, but I don't think I qualify as a layman.
I owned a shop fixing anything that walked in (TV, Stereo, CB, VHF,
CATV, Instruments, etc.) and as an engineer I managed 25 techs
repairing any kind of industrial control equipment you can think of.
I've repaired more different types of equipment than you have
different manufacturers of home electronics. I have one of the first
issued ET licenses in the state of NH with a radar endorcement, I have
my FCC General class license. I repaired eletronic warfare equipment
in the Army and obtained a P2 (highest) proficiency.

I am fully aware of what a problem like this involves and I ask for
experience for that reason. With my experience, I couldn't tell you to
do any more than I have done and it won't point me in a definitive
direction. You have to have experienced it to help.

It appears that no one has expereinced it, so a part by part
replacement seems like the only thing to solve it. Since it is my
freinds TV, I guess I won't be doing that.

Thanks again.


On Mon, 16 Feb 2004 07:15:32 -0500, "john"
va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote:

Actually I laugh when a layman
wants experienced advise only.
As far as me being "experienced"
Yes 36 yrs how about you ?

kip

 

[Cher]

Lenny, that is the kind of answer I was hoping to avoid.

If you have something positive to offer, please do.

Your comment implies that anyone who asks for help is an idiot and
can't troubleshoot their way out of a paper bag, and probably that is
true for a large majority of them. You can tell by the level of detail
that is submitted - "My TV won't come on" - at least I can.

I would love to help people out in this newsgroup. But most of them
don't post the detail I have and it would take a week to get them to
give me enough information for me to even start. So unless one is
willing to hold someones hand and walk them thru it only to find they
have no ability to fix the problem, why must people try to push
themselve up on a pedistal by knocking others and down giving them
hot air advice? - "Take it to a qualified shop" or "Ever consider a
few minutes of skilled troubleshooting?"


On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 07:15:03 -0500, "Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com>
wrote:

"Cher" <ccher@your.place> wrote in message
news:u9q530tb03s37n74hp3r1llvq4vkhgi6ts@4ax.com...
Thanks for the advice John, but I don't think I qualify as a layman.
I owned a shop fixing anything that walked in (TV, Stereo, CB, VHF,
CATV, Instruments, etc.) and as an engineer I managed 25 techs
repairing any kind of industrial control equipment you can think of.
I've repaired more different types of equipment than you have
different manufacturers of home electronics. I have one of the first
issued ET licenses in the state of NH with a radar endorcement, I have
my FCC General class license. I repaired eletronic warfare equipment
in the Army and obtained a P2 (highest) proficiency.

I am fully aware of what a problem like this involves and I ask for
experience for that reason. With my experience, I couldn't tell you to
do any more than I have done and it won't point me in a definitive
direction. You have to have experienced it to help.

It appears that no one has expereinced it, so a part by part
replacement seems like the only thing to solve it. Since it is my
freinds TV, I guess I won't be doing that.

Ever consider a few minutes of skilled troubleshooting? With the experience
you have you should be able to do so. With the experience that has been
offered in this group and a little troubleshooting you could probably solve
the problem.

Leonard Caillouet

 

[Cher]

Do you really believe that based on the information I have posted?


On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 08:04:01 -0500, "john"
<va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote:

Gee !!
You should be able to troubleshoot the TV with your eyes shut.
What iam saying here is that maybe a unexperienced person
might have been able to help you.

kip

 

[Cher]

Thanks David

I think I eliminated a crack or a cold solder by flexing the PCB with
0, nada, no result. It might still be a bad solder, but my friend
didn't have a glass to view it with so I did the best I could and
figured I eliminated that with flexing the PCB.

I suspect a bad part but nothing I did would lead me to it - any tap
(almost a feather touch) anyplace (on any of the three pcbs except the
CRT, yoke and driver pcb) would create the condition after a short
warmup.

I am not trying to posture, but I also didn't think I would have to
post my resume to ask for what I needed. If someone hasn't seen this
before and fixed it, it is close to impossible without gross parts
replacement. Of course I might get lucky on the first one.

Anybody got a flow solder machine? just kidding!


On Tue, 17 Feb 2004 21:24:15 -0800, "Sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote:

Cher or should I say, Bill:
Please save the posturing for another time and/or another newsgroup..... a
"pissing" contest with the experienced regulars (like Kip and others) on
this newsgroup is not going to get you the repair suggestions you are
seeking.
Now, back to your original post.....
Because of the intermittent nature of the symptoms as you described with
such detail..... I still suspect cold solder connections as indicated in my
previous reply post to you (also this was suggested by two other experienced
techs, RonKZ650 and LASERandDVDfan)...... or the culprit could be hard to
find cracked pcb traces. Many models of Sony televisions can be notorious
for cold solder joints and of course any brand can have cracked pcb
traces.... many times very difficult to find..... microscopic cracks in
the traces can be responsible for the exact intermittent symptoms you
described as the board is tapped, flexed, heated, etc ..... a strong light
shining through from the opposite side of the board might allow you to view
the traces and reveal any cracks especially around large assemblies like the
flyback, other transformers, large components like big electrolytics, heat
sinks, connectors, etc..... anything that can flex because of vibration and
anything that is stressed by heat. Also you should suspect any filtering
or bypass electrolytics..... they can become intermittent and cause similar
symptoms....... try to localize any tapping or heating to those kinds of
suspected components......
I know that you have already tried and failed to localize the problem but
try again, this time focusing on selected areas of the circuitry... starting
with power supply B+ distribution and flyback derived B+ sources.... if
you still have an oscilloscope from your "old" service days you might be
best advised to hook up your scope probes and monitor the ripple and
regulation of those distribution rails to see if they change with the
symptoms you described...... this just may help you to pinpoint the problem
area of circuitry.
Good luck in your troubleshooting effort and keep us informed.

 

[Sofie]

Cher alias Bill:
From my experience with the techs in my shop....... there are times that my
best and most experienced techs get bogged down on a tough dog repair.
Occasionally a new or less experienced tech will give the problem a fresh
look and find the obvious, easier solution that the more experienced tech
didn't give much consideration to because he was looking for a more
complicated, hard to find fault..
I almost never ignore the novice repair suggestion....... I will always
listen to it and then chose to act on it or not. It's like eating a
chicken wing..... eat the chicken and spit out the bones.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
-----------------------------------


"Cher" <ccher@your.place> wrote in message
news:a98830h5hpo8o64q80d66v3ce0kffc9hdc@4ax.com...

Do you really believe that based on the information I have posted?


On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 08:04:01 -0500, "john"
va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote:

Gee !!
You should be able to troubleshoot the TV with your eyes shut.
What iam saying here is that maybe a unexperienced person
might have been able to help you.

kip

 

[Sofie]

Cher / Bill:

Here is a repeat of my suggestion that would have you utilize an
OSCILLOSCOPE to narrow down your search for the faulty area of the
circuitry...... just blindly replacing any and every part is usually a
waste of time and money, particularly if it is not a part that is bad.
Remember to use an isolation transformer if you are probing "hot-ac line"
circuitry.

">I know that you have already tried and failed to localize the problem but

try again, this time focusing on selected areas of the circuitry...
starting
with power supply B+ distribution and flyback derived B+ sources.... if
you still have an oscilloscope from your "old" service days you might be
best advised to hook up your scope probes and monitor the ripple and
regulation of those distribution rails to see if they change with the
symptoms you described...... this just may help you to pinpoint the
problem
area of circuitry."

--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
----------------------------


"Cher" <ccher@your.place> wrote in message
, it is close to impossible without gross parts

replacement. Of course I might get lucky on the first one.

Anybody got a flow solder machine? just kidding!

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

Cherie, you said, "It appears that no one has experienced it, so a part by
part replacement seems like the only thing to solve it."

That, IMO is a rather poor approach for someone who has the experience that
you purport to have. You were given some suggestions to point you in the
right direction, and since the problem is at least a bit less trivial than,
for instance, a Toshiba two cap vertical symptom-repair solution, the only
reasonable approach is some actual troubleshooting.

You were told by guys that have lots of experience with the problem exactly
what any of us would do and your initial subject line and subsequent posts
have seemed like posturing, as Sofie put it. You got the experience you
asked for and need to use it.

Resolder everything in the horizontal drive and output circuits, check the
electrolytic caps in the circuit, inspect all of the heat producing
components in the set for bad solder joints. Get out your scope and
troubleshoot it. Any good, experienced technician knows that the first
thing you have to do is to go back over your assumptions and realize that if
you are not getting anywhere on a problem that you made a bad one somewhere.
In this case you likely assumed that a joint was good when it was not, or
assumed that a area was unrelated when it was significant. There are no
easy, one-shot solutions in many repairs and "experienced" people are not
the only ones who know this.

Leonard Caillouet

"Cher" <ccher@your.place> wrote in message
news:he7830hb03g0e09i2nfjb0pterdcu3fh13@4ax.com...

Lenny, that is the kind of answer I was hoping to avoid.

If you have something positive to offer, please do.

Your comment implies that anyone who asks for help is an idiot and
can't troubleshoot their way out of a paper bag, and probably that is
true for a large majority of them. You can tell by the level of detail
that is submitted - "My TV won't come on" - at least I can.

I would love to help people out in this newsgroup. But most of them
don't post the detail I have and it would take a week to get them to
give me enough information for me to even start. So unless one is
willing to hold someones hand and walk them thru it only to find they
have no ability to fix the problem, why must people try to push
themselve up on a pedistal by knocking others and down giving them
hot air advice? - "Take it to a qualified shop" or "Ever consider a
few minutes of skilled troubleshooting?"


On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 07:15:03 -0500, "Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com
wrote:


"Cher" <ccher@your.place> wrote in message
news:u9q530tb03s37n74hp3r1llvq4vkhgi6ts@4ax.com...
Thanks for the advice John, but I don't think I qualify as a layman.
I owned a shop fixing anything that walked in (TV, Stereo, CB, VHF,
CATV, Instruments, etc.) and as an engineer I managed 25 techs
repairing any kind of industrial control equipment you can think of.
I've repaired more different types of equipment than you have
different manufacturers of home electronics. I have one of the first
issued ET licenses in the state of NH with a radar endorcement, I have
my FCC General class license. I repaired eletronic warfare equipment
in the Army and obtained a P2 (highest) proficiency.

I am fully aware of what a problem like this involves and I ask for
experience for that reason. With my experience, I couldn't tell you to
do any more than I have done and it won't point me in a definitive
direction. You have to have experienced it to help.

It appears that no one has expereinced it, so a part by part
replacement seems like the only thing to solve it. Since it is my
freinds TV, I guess I won't be doing that.

Ever consider a few minutes of skilled troubleshooting? With the
experience
you have you should be able to do so. With the experience that has been
offered in this group and a little troubleshooting you could probably
solve
the problem.

Leonard Caillouet