Solid tinned wire meets circuit board

A

AK

Guest
Try not to laugh too hard.

I think I may need a video on how to connect components on a board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8iuqo9iu0em42d5/first2.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqpwpxxl24b6zc/first1.png?dl=0
 
Bad deduction : the reistor is used to lift the board like a handle !!

AK a Êcrit le 21/05/2019 à 04:10 :
Try not to laugh too hard.

I think I may need a video on how to connect components on a board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8iuqo9iu0em42d5/first2.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqpwpxxl24b6zc/first1.png?dl=0
 
On Monday, May 20, 2019 at 10:10:34 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
Try not to laugh too hard.

I think I may need a video on how to connect components on a board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8iuqo9iu0em42d5/first2.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqpwpxxl24b6zc/first1.png?dl=0

So when soldering two things together (say a lead and plated hole
on pcb) you want to try and make a four way junction. The two
metal bits, the tip of the soldering iron, and the end of the
piece of solder. Tin the solder tip first, (Tin-- touch with solder
such that a little melts.)

George H.
(maybe a video would be good.)
 
On 5/20/19 10:10 PM, AK wrote:
Try not to laugh too hard.

I think I may need a video on how to connect components on a board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8iuqo9iu0em42d5/first2.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqpwpxxl24b6zc/first1.png?dl=0
You're not using enough heat, for one thing. The plated holes should be
completely filled with solder. Using a sufficiently-hot iron (700F is
good), hold the iron on the joint for four or five seconds after you see
the solder flow.

And as for that mess on the right side of the first picture, you've got
oxidized solder problems, for which you need more active flux (RA vs
RMA) and reasonably new solder. As I'll say one last time, you want to
use new Kester 44 solder, which you can get for $3 via that eBay link I
posted upthread.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
 
On 21/05/19 03:10, AK wrote:
Try not to laugh too hard.

I think I may need a video on how to connect components on a board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8iuqo9iu0em42d5/first2.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqpwpxxl24b6zc/first1.png?dl=0

Short, information dense, unlike most yootoob vids...

Pace Basic Soldering Lessons 1-9 show good examples of
what you should see happening when you've got it right - and
just as importantly - wrong. The only omission is SMD
components, presumably they weren't common when the
videos were made.

But try not to snigger at the pronunciation of “solder”!

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837
 
On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 11:12:01 AM UTC-5, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 21/05/19 03:10, AK wrote:
Try not to laugh too hard.

I think I may need a video on how to connect components on a board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8iuqo9iu0em42d5/first2.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqpwpxxl24b6zc/first1.png?dl=0

Short, information dense, unlike most yootoob vids...

Pace Basic Soldering Lessons 1-9 show good examples of
what you should see happening when you've got it right - and
just as importantly - wrong. The only omission is SMD
components, presumably they weren't common when the
videos were made.

But try not to snigger at the pronunciation of “solder”!

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837

Thanks. Excellent video.

The idea of leaving the tip on no longer than 2 seconds is pretty accurate.

When I left it on a pad for longer, the whole pad separated from the board.

Andy
 
On 5/21/19 2:02 PM, AK wrote:
On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 11:12:01 AM UTC-5, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 21/05/19 03:10, AK wrote:
Try not to laugh too hard.

I think I may need a video on how to connect components on a
board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8iuqo9iu0em42d5/first2.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqpwpxxl24b6zc/first1.png?dl=0

Short, information dense, unlike most yootoob vids...

Pace Basic Soldering Lessons 1-9 show good examples of what you
should see happening when you've got it right - and just as
importantly - wrong. The only omission is SMD components,
presumably they weren't common when the videos were made.

But try not to snigger at the pronunciation of “solder”!

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837

Thanks. Excellent video.

The idea of leaving the tip on no longer than 2 seconds is pretty
accurate.

When I left it on a pad for longer, the whole pad separated from the
board.

What sort of iron are you using? A Metcal is safe on plated-through
pads for >10 s. You need something temperature controlled.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
 
On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 3:19:52 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 5/21/19 2:02 PM, AK wrote:
On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 11:12:01 AM UTC-5, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 21/05/19 03:10, AK wrote:
Try not to laugh too hard.

I think I may need a video on how to connect components on a
board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8iuqo9iu0em42d5/first2.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqpwpxxl24b6zc/first1.png?dl=0

Short, information dense, unlike most yootoob vids...

Pace Basic Soldering Lessons 1-9 show good examples of what you
should see happening when you've got it right - and just as
importantly - wrong. The only omission is SMD components,
presumably they weren't common when the videos were made.

But try not to snigger at the pronunciation of “solder”!

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837

Thanks. Excellent video.

The idea of leaving the tip on no longer than 2 seconds is pretty
accurate.

When I left it on a pad for longer, the whole pad separated from the
board.

What sort of iron are you using? A Metcal is safe on plated-through
pads for >10 s. You need something temperature controlled.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

Andy



--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

I have this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AgEAAAAAAAAAAV5q
 
On 2019-05-22, AK <scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 3:19:52 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 5/21/19 2:02 PM, AK wrote:

What sort of iron are you using? A Metcal is safe on plated-through
pads for >10 s. You need something temperature controlled.


I have this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AgEAAAAAAAAAAV5q

Is there a ground pin on that plug?

--
When I tried casting out nines I made a hash of it.
 
Could be funny, but when I've been starting some 50 years ago, it was
not better.
A new soldering iron is like a domestic animal, you must master it.
The quality of the solder  wire interferes too.
An advice : don't give up.
Failing is the best teacher.

AK a Êcrit le 21/05/2019 à 04:10 :
Try not to laugh too hard.

I think I may need a video on how to connect components on a board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8iuqo9iu0em42d5/first2.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqpwpxxl24b6zc/first1.png?dl=0
 
On Wednesday, May 22, 2019 at 1:31:39 AM UTC-5, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2019-05-22, AK <scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 3:19:52 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 5/21/19 2:02 PM, AK wrote:

What sort of iron are you using? A Metcal is safe on plated-through
pads for >10 s. You need something temperature controlled.


I have this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AgEAAAAAAAAAAV5q

Is there a ground pin on that plug?

--
When I tried casting out nines I made a hash of it.

No.

Andy
 
On 5/21/19 10:30 PM, AK wrote:
On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 3:19:52 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 5/21/19 2:02 PM, AK wrote:
On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 11:12:01 AM UTC-5, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 21/05/19 03:10, AK wrote:
Try not to laugh too hard.

I think I may need a video on how to connect components on a
board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8iuqo9iu0em42d5/first2.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqpwpxxl24b6zc/first1.png?dl=0

Short, information dense, unlike most yootoob vids...

Pace Basic Soldering Lessons 1-9 show good examples of what you
should see happening when you've got it right - and just as
importantly - wrong. The only omission is SMD components,
presumably they weren't common when the videos were made.

But try not to snigger at the pronunciation of “solder”!

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837

Thanks. Excellent video.

The idea of leaving the tip on no longer than 2 seconds is pretty
accurate.

When I left it on a pad for longer, the whole pad separated from the
board.

What sort of iron are you using? A Metcal is safe on plated-through
pads for >10 s. You need something temperature controlled.

I have this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AgEAAAAAAAAAAV5q

I have a similar-looking one in my road warrior kit. It's very
surprising to me that you can cook a plated-through hole in that short a
time. If your solder isn't filling the holes, you're either using too
little solder, too little heat, or poor flux.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
 
On Wednesday, May 22, 2019 at 2:21:55 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 5/21/19 10:30 PM, AK wrote:
On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 3:19:52 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 5/21/19 2:02 PM, AK wrote:
On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 11:12:01 AM UTC-5, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 21/05/19 03:10, AK wrote:
Try not to laugh too hard.

I think I may need a video on how to connect components on a
board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8iuqo9iu0em42d5/first2.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqpwpxxl24b6zc/first1.png?dl=0

Short, information dense, unlike most yootoob vids...

Pace Basic Soldering Lessons 1-9 show good examples of what you
should see happening when you've got it right - and just as
importantly - wrong. The only omission is SMD components,
presumably they weren't common when the videos were made.

But try not to snigger at the pronunciation of “solder”!

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837

Thanks. Excellent video.

The idea of leaving the tip on no longer than 2 seconds is pretty
accurate.

When I left it on a pad for longer, the whole pad separated from the
board.

What sort of iron are you using? A Metcal is safe on plated-through
pads for >10 s. You need something temperature controlled.

I have this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AgEAAAAAAAAAAV5q


I have a similar-looking one in my road warrior kit. It's very
surprising to me that you can cook a plated-through hole in that short a
time. If your solder isn't filling the holes, you're either using too
little solder, too little heat, or poor flux.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

There is no mark on it that you align the temperature with.

So I turned the temp all the way down, and put a mark opposite the lowest temperature.

I was wondering if it was a true 60 watt iron.

I used my power meter on it.

At the highest temp setting, it draws about 56 watts.

Andy
 
On 5/22/19 4:03 PM, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 22, 2019 at 2:21:55 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 5/21/19 10:30 PM, AK wrote:
On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 3:19:52 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 5/21/19 2:02 PM, AK wrote:
On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 11:12:01 AM UTC-5, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 21/05/19 03:10, AK wrote:
Try not to laugh too hard.

I think I may need a video on how to connect components on a
board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8iuqo9iu0em42d5/first2.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqpwpxxl24b6zc/first1.png?dl=0

Short, information dense, unlike most yootoob vids...

Pace Basic Soldering Lessons 1-9 show good examples of what you
should see happening when you've got it right - and just as
importantly - wrong. The only omission is SMD components,
presumably they weren't common when the videos were made.

But try not to snigger at the pronunciation of “solder”!

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837

Thanks. Excellent video.

The idea of leaving the tip on no longer than 2 seconds is pretty
accurate.

When I left it on a pad for longer, the whole pad separated from the
board.

What sort of iron are you using? A Metcal is safe on plated-through
pads for >10 s. You need something temperature controlled.

I have this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AgEAAAAAAAAAAV5q


I have a similar-looking one in my road warrior kit. It's very
surprising to me that you can cook a plated-through hole in that short a
time. If your solder isn't filling the holes, you're either using too
little solder, too little heat, or poor flux.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

There is no mark on it that you align the temperature with.

So I turned the temp all the way down, and put a mark opposite the lowest temperature.

I was wondering if it was a true 60 watt iron.

I used my power meter on it.

At the highest temp setting, it draws about 56 watts.

Andy

Somewhere around 2/3 of the way up would be about right, assuming the
scale is linear. Doing through-hole protos, I tend to run irons hot,
because somewhat surprisingly you don't cook parts as often--a hotter
iron for a shorter time dumps less heat into the leads.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs
 
In article <Wqmdndx6HqLZLXjBnZ2dnUU7-VOdnZ2d@supernews.com>,
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net says...
Somewhere around 2/3 of the way up would be about right, assuming the
scale is linear. Doing through-hole protos, I tend to run irons hot,
because somewhat surprisingly you don't cook parts as often--a hotter
iron for a shorter time dumps less heat into the leads.

That is what I have found out. Use a hot iron with as large of a tip
that you can. The mass of the larger tip helps keep the temperature up.

Get in with a very hot iron and back out again.

With the older irons without any control the heat was controlled by how
much heat would escape to the air and smaller wattages were used. With
the temperature controlled irons a 50 to about a 100 watt iron is
common.
 
On 5/22/19 6:22 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article <Wqmdndx6HqLZLXjBnZ2dnUU7-VOdnZ2d@supernews.com>,
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net says...


Somewhere around 2/3 of the way up would be about right, assuming the
scale is linear. Doing through-hole protos, I tend to run irons hot,
because somewhat surprisingly you don't cook parts as often--a hotter
iron for a shorter time dumps less heat into the leads.




That is what I have found out. Use a hot iron with as large of a tip
that you can. The mass of the larger tip helps keep the temperature up.

Get in with a very hot iron and back out again.

With the older irons without any control the heat was controlled by how
much heat would escape to the air and smaller wattages were used. With
the temperature controlled irons a 50 to about a 100 watt iron is
common.

Yup. As a thought experiment, imagine a soldering iron one degree above
the solder's melting point (technically its liquidus point, for
non-eutectic alloys). Those parts would get very hot for a very long
time before the solder flowed.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
 
On Wed, 22 May 2019 16:25:40 -0400, Phil Hobbs
<pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

On 5/22/19 4:03 PM, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 22, 2019 at 2:21:55 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 5/21/19 10:30 PM, AK wrote:
On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 3:19:52 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 5/21/19 2:02 PM, AK wrote:
On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 11:12:01 AM UTC-5, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 21/05/19 03:10, AK wrote:
Try not to laugh too hard.

I think I may need a video on how to connect components on a
board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8iuqo9iu0em42d5/first2.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqpwpxxl24b6zc/first1.png?dl=0

Short, information dense, unlike most yootoob vids...

Pace Basic Soldering Lessons 1-9 show good examples of what you
should see happening when you've got it right - and just as
importantly - wrong. The only omission is SMD components,
presumably they weren't common when the videos were made.

But try not to snigger at the pronunciation of “solder”!

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837

Thanks. Excellent video.

The idea of leaving the tip on no longer than 2 seconds is pretty
accurate.

When I left it on a pad for longer, the whole pad separated from the
board.

What sort of iron are you using? A Metcal is safe on plated-through
pads for >10 s. You need something temperature controlled.

I have this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AgEAAAAAAAAAAV5q


I have a similar-looking one in my road warrior kit. It's very
surprising to me that you can cook a plated-through hole in that short a
time. If your solder isn't filling the holes, you're either using too
little solder, too little heat, or poor flux.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

There is no mark on it that you align the temperature with.

So I turned the temp all the way down, and put a mark opposite the lowest temperature.

I was wondering if it was a true 60 watt iron.

I used my power meter on it.

At the highest temp setting, it draws about 56 watts.

Andy


Somewhere around 2/3 of the way up would be about right, assuming the
scale is linear. Doing through-hole protos, I tend to run irons hot,
because somewhat surprisingly you don't cook parts as often--a hotter
iron for a shorter time dumps less heat into the leads.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs
Greetings Phil,
You are absolutely correct about the higher temp being better.
People tend to be cautious when soldering and use too little heat.
Soldering needs to be done hot and fast.
Eric
 

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