U
Uncle Steve
Guest
.... unless there is no signal at the input.
I started with some information at the following two URLS:
http://www.mysticmarvels.com/amplifier.html
http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/TheTransistorAmplifier/TheTransistorAmplifier-P1.html
The first URL goes through the process of building a high-gain
amplifier, and it works O.K. with the exception that there is no
power. The second URL goes into more detail and shows how to deliver
some power to the speaker as in figure 16. I have different parts on
hand, and I am working with a 12V supply instead of 9V as in the first
URL. Since I am looking to deliver big chunky volts to my speaker,
I went ahead and modified Figure 16 and the example in the first URL
to obtain the following circuit:
12V +---+----------+----------+ R1 = 510K
| | | | R2 = 5.9K
| > R2 > R3 | R3 = 220
R1 > < < | C1 = 1uF
< | | | Q1, Q2 = 2N2222
| +-- | | Q3 = 2N3055
input | | \ b |c |
o---||-+-(Q1) -----(Q2) -----(Q3)
C1 | |e / |
1uf | --- SPKR
| |
| |
o----------+---------------------+
SPKR is a ribbon tweeter with a 2 Ohm, 10 Watt resistor in series.
R2 ought to be 6K, but 5.9 is what I have on hand.
Driving the circuit with a 50KHz signal produces 10V across the
speaker, which decreases to about 8V as the power transistor heats up.
I had a problem with thermal runaway until I got a sufficiently beefy
heatsink on Q3 and the 7812 supplying the 12V rail. Q3 runs quite
hot, but I think I can fix that by substituting a TO-3 package for
the TO-220 currently in the circuit, or by reducing the current.
Not sure which is the proper solution, but the speaker handles
the existing power.
220 Ohms for R3 was derived by guessing, and noting that 1K
attenuates the signal too much, but I don't really know how I should
be calculating the proper value. The speaker is usually paired with a
5.1 Ohm, 5W resistor, but I found it got too warm in this circuit, so
I used the 10W part instead. I have no idea what the speaker
impedance really is in operation.
The horrible fact is that this circuit works as long as there is a
signal present at the input. I am using a simple signal generator
from my DSO, but it doesn't allow the amplitude to be changed, so I
put a 100K trim pot on the positive side of C1. Before I modified the
circuit by adding Q2, the trim pot worked as expected. Now,
attenuating the signal even a little causes the output across the
speaker to fall off very quickly, with serious distortion occurring as
it falls (it seems the duty cycle goes from 50 to 90%, but that is
occurring somewhere in-circuit.)
If there is no signal present at the input, the circuit goes nuts very
quickly and ends up producing a much-distorted 9KHz signal at full
power at the speaker. This seems to be occurring at Q3, but I don't
really understand what is going on. My thinking is that with Q1c-Q2b
at ~6V, the DC load through the speaker is too much for Q3, but when
a signal is present, it 'works'.
What I'd like to do:
In the original form of the circuit, the speaker is driven through a
capacitor connected at Q2c (3300uF, 50V), but of course there is no
power available, and the voltage drops from 11V to 1 or 2 volts at the
positive terminal of the speaker. With the above circuit, it is not
obvious to me how I should rearrange things to decouple the speaker
from the DC signal.
I would like to figure out why the circuit only works at 'full on',
and blows up otherwise. The last problem is the power-on state, which
launches a huge spike through the speaker driver, and indeed, changing
the input signal frequency on the DSO causes a similar discontinuity
that is being amplified quite a bit as well. Suggestions as to how to
reduce this spike would be appreciated. Off the top of my head, I
suppose I could install an SCR in line with the speaker driver and
have a switch to turn on the power and another to enable the speaker
output via the SCR. I would test this, but I don't have an SCR
available ATM.
The entire objective with this little project is to develop a simple
amplifier that I can use to drive this speaker I have, where fidelity
is not as important as stability. Plus, it would be nice to be able
to use the parts I have on-hand.
Regards,
Uncle Steve
--
More than a century has passed since science laid down sound
propositions as to the origins of the universe, but how many have
mastered them or possess the really scientific spirit of criticism? A
few thousands at the outside, who are lost in the midst of hundreds of
millions still steeped in prejudices and superstitions worthy of
savages, who are consequently ever ready to serve as puppets for
religious impostors. -- Peter Kropotkin
I started with some information at the following two URLS:
http://www.mysticmarvels.com/amplifier.html
http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/TheTransistorAmplifier/TheTransistorAmplifier-P1.html
The first URL goes through the process of building a high-gain
amplifier, and it works O.K. with the exception that there is no
power. The second URL goes into more detail and shows how to deliver
some power to the speaker as in figure 16. I have different parts on
hand, and I am working with a 12V supply instead of 9V as in the first
URL. Since I am looking to deliver big chunky volts to my speaker,
I went ahead and modified Figure 16 and the example in the first URL
to obtain the following circuit:
12V +---+----------+----------+ R1 = 510K
| | | | R2 = 5.9K
| > R2 > R3 | R3 = 220
R1 > < < | C1 = 1uF
< | | | Q1, Q2 = 2N2222
| +-- | | Q3 = 2N3055
input | | \ b |c |
o---||-+-(Q1) -----(Q2) -----(Q3)
C1 | |e / |
1uf | --- SPKR
| |
| |
o----------+---------------------+
SPKR is a ribbon tweeter with a 2 Ohm, 10 Watt resistor in series.
R2 ought to be 6K, but 5.9 is what I have on hand.
Driving the circuit with a 50KHz signal produces 10V across the
speaker, which decreases to about 8V as the power transistor heats up.
I had a problem with thermal runaway until I got a sufficiently beefy
heatsink on Q3 and the 7812 supplying the 12V rail. Q3 runs quite
hot, but I think I can fix that by substituting a TO-3 package for
the TO-220 currently in the circuit, or by reducing the current.
Not sure which is the proper solution, but the speaker handles
the existing power.
220 Ohms for R3 was derived by guessing, and noting that 1K
attenuates the signal too much, but I don't really know how I should
be calculating the proper value. The speaker is usually paired with a
5.1 Ohm, 5W resistor, but I found it got too warm in this circuit, so
I used the 10W part instead. I have no idea what the speaker
impedance really is in operation.
The horrible fact is that this circuit works as long as there is a
signal present at the input. I am using a simple signal generator
from my DSO, but it doesn't allow the amplitude to be changed, so I
put a 100K trim pot on the positive side of C1. Before I modified the
circuit by adding Q2, the trim pot worked as expected. Now,
attenuating the signal even a little causes the output across the
speaker to fall off very quickly, with serious distortion occurring as
it falls (it seems the duty cycle goes from 50 to 90%, but that is
occurring somewhere in-circuit.)
If there is no signal present at the input, the circuit goes nuts very
quickly and ends up producing a much-distorted 9KHz signal at full
power at the speaker. This seems to be occurring at Q3, but I don't
really understand what is going on. My thinking is that with Q1c-Q2b
at ~6V, the DC load through the speaker is too much for Q3, but when
a signal is present, it 'works'.
What I'd like to do:
In the original form of the circuit, the speaker is driven through a
capacitor connected at Q2c (3300uF, 50V), but of course there is no
power available, and the voltage drops from 11V to 1 or 2 volts at the
positive terminal of the speaker. With the above circuit, it is not
obvious to me how I should rearrange things to decouple the speaker
from the DC signal.
I would like to figure out why the circuit only works at 'full on',
and blows up otherwise. The last problem is the power-on state, which
launches a huge spike through the speaker driver, and indeed, changing
the input signal frequency on the DSO causes a similar discontinuity
that is being amplified quite a bit as well. Suggestions as to how to
reduce this spike would be appreciated. Off the top of my head, I
suppose I could install an SCR in line with the speaker driver and
have a switch to turn on the power and another to enable the speaker
output via the SCR. I would test this, but I don't have an SCR
available ATM.
The entire objective with this little project is to develop a simple
amplifier that I can use to drive this speaker I have, where fidelity
is not as important as stability. Plus, it would be nice to be able
to use the parts I have on-hand.
Regards,
Uncle Steve
--
More than a century has passed since science laid down sound
propositions as to the origins of the universe, but how many have
mastered them or possess the really scientific spirit of criticism? A
few thousands at the outside, who are lost in the midst of hundreds of
millions still steeped in prejudices and superstitions worthy of
savages, who are consequently ever ready to serve as puppets for
religious impostors. -- Peter Kropotkin