Sherwood RD6106 tuner amp, prob 2000 year

N

N_Cook

Guest
I though that hygroscopic brown glue stuff went out in the 70s. Used to
secure 12.288M crystal for the digital interface processor was around and a
pin and had rusted through at the epoxy bond. Plenty of opportunity for
liquid to pass through top vents but no sign of liquid anywhere so
presumably this duff glue stuff again. Luckily easily replaced.
Unfortunately looks as thogh it was used as flip-chip temporary bonding
before soldering, hopefully away from anything rustable there.

Does anyone have a sure-fire way of dealing with delatching those white
nylon board spacer+pcb holders? Sometimes a banana plug/ wander plug cover
works, sometimes a small nut driver. So often in too awkward a place to get
pliers in at board level. One of these on this amp I ended up cutting one of
the pair of tangs off, to free the board. Perhaps a range of metal cylinders
with dowel handles, various bore sizes.
 
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
I though that hygroscopic brown glue stuff went out in the 70s. Used to
secure 12.288M crystal for the digital interface processor was around and a
pin and had rusted through at the epoxy bond. Plenty of opportunity for
liquid to pass through top vents but no sign of liquid anywhere so
presumably this duff glue stuff again. Luckily easily replaced.
Unfortunately looks as thogh it was used as flip-chip temporary bonding
before soldering, hopefully away from anything rustable there.

Does anyone have a sure-fire way of dealing with delatching those white
nylon board spacer+pcb holders? Sometimes a banana plug/ wander plug cover
works, sometimes a small nut driver. So often in too awkward a place to get
pliers in at board level. One of these on this amp I ended up cutting one of
the pair of tangs off, to free the board. Perhaps a range of metal cylinders
with dowel handles, various bore sizes.
Click to expand...
If you have a pair of crappy needlenose pliers you don't love anymore you
can try to bend the tips inwards a bit. Those spacer things still suck,
especially when they're old and brittle and just break off.
 
On 10/27/2010 10:34 AM, N_Cook wrote:
Perhaps a range of metal cylinders
with dowel handles, various bore sizes.
Click to expand...
Head down to the hobby store and get a selection
of small diameter brass tubing.

Jeff
 
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
news:iaa2pi$4f1$2@reader1.panix.com...
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
I though that hygroscopic brown glue stuff went out in the 70s. Used to
secure 12.288M crystal for the digital interface processor was around
and a
pin and had rusted through at the epoxy bond. Plenty of opportunity for
liquid to pass through top vents but no sign of liquid anywhere so
presumably this duff glue stuff again. Luckily easily replaced.
Unfortunately looks as thogh it was used as flip-chip temporary bonding
before soldering, hopefully away from anything rustable there.

Does anyone have a sure-fire way of dealing with delatching those white
nylon board spacer+pcb holders? Sometimes a banana plug/ wander plug
cover
works, sometimes a small nut driver. So often in too awkward a place to
get
pliers in at board level. One of these on this amp I ended up cutting
one of
the pair of tangs off, to free the board. Perhaps a range of metal
cylinders
with dowel handles, various bore sizes.

If you have a pair of crappy needlenose pliers you don't love anymore you
can try to bend the tips inwards a bit. Those spacer things still suck,
especially when they're old and brittle and just break off.
Click to expand...
Needlenose slide off unless coming in sideways (rarely applicable). I will
try one of those double flat type that I've no idea what their intended
purpose is. Grind a pair of cylindrical internal surfaces , to locate over
the nylon tangs, and then a bit of serious heating and that inward bending
of the tips to overcome the angles of the tangs
 
You'd think they'd use mineral bulking agent like French chalk , not corn
starch, or whatever is hygroscopic, in that glue that starts light tan
colour and goes browner and browner with age
 
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ia9gph$8l6$1@news.eternal-september.org...
I though that hygroscopic brown glue stuff went out in the 70s. Used to
secure 12.288M crystal for the digital interface processor was around and
a
pin and had rusted through at the epoxy bond. Plenty of opportunity for
liquid to pass through top vents but no sign of liquid anywhere so
presumably this duff glue stuff again. Luckily easily replaced.
Unfortunately looks as thogh it was used as flip-chip temporary bonding
before soldering, hopefully away from anything rustable there.

Does anyone have a sure-fire way of dealing with delatching those white
nylon board spacer+pcb holders? Sometimes a banana plug/ wander plug cover
works, sometimes a small nut driver. So often in too awkward a place to
get
pliers in at board level. One of these on this amp I ended up cutting one
of
the pair of tangs off, to free the board. Perhaps a range of metal
cylinders
with dowel handles, various bore sizes.
Click to expand...
I have several pairs of hemostats, curved and straight, which serve me well
in situations like this.

Mark Z.
 
Mark Zacharias <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:4cc96dcb$0$18564$c3e8da3$38634283@news.astraweb.com...
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ia9gph$8l6$1@news.eternal-september.org...
I though that hygroscopic brown glue stuff went out in the 70s. Used to
secure 12.288M crystal for the digital interface processor was around
and
a
pin and had rusted through at the epoxy bond. Plenty of opportunity for
liquid to pass through top vents but no sign of liquid anywhere so
presumably this duff glue stuff again. Luckily easily replaced.
Unfortunately looks as thogh it was used as flip-chip temporary bonding
before soldering, hopefully away from anything rustable there.

Does anyone have a sure-fire way of dealing with delatching those white
nylon board spacer+pcb holders? Sometimes a banana plug/ wander plug
cover
works, sometimes a small nut driver. So often in too awkward a place to
get
pliers in at board level. One of these on this amp I ended up cutting
one
of
the pair of tangs off, to free the board. Perhaps a range of metal
cylinders
with dowel handles, various bore sizes.



I have several pairs of hemostats, curved and straight, which serve me
well
in situations like this.

Mark Z.
Click to expand...
I just tried some forceps, ok the serrations don't slide on the nylon but
they also bottom out against the angle of the nylon , necessitating bending
the tips inward to work.
I dug out the pair of (i thought) flat ended pliers to convert but only one
side is flat the other is convex along its length, I've even less idea what
those are for. Box-jawed so someone had a respecable use for them. I will
have to find some grotty long nose ones and grind back the ends , then
concave and bend probably grind undercuts if the jaws open enough/ come
apart, rather than heat and bend
 
Worked a treat with the Sherwood and all the nylon standoffs I had laying
around.
Starting with an old pair of 2 inch long arm needle nose pliers. Grind off
the tips to give about 3mm wide. Dremmel and cutoff grinding disc cut a V
slot in each face to about 5mm up the arms, then hollow grind progressively
deeper for the next 10mm or so each side, not much just enough so the tops
of the standoffs don't bottom out on the faces.
Now to make a tool for cutting silicone sleeving into spiral wrap, first
attempt failed
 
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