Security camera questions

T

Trevor Wilson

Guest
A mate wants a set of security cameras around his home. I called a mate in
the biz and found that the hardware is not badly priced, but the cameras are
very expensive. For a high resolution camera (only), the cost runs to around
$1,500.00 each. He needs to be able to identify faces at around 20 Metres.
This rules out any of the usual solutions from Electus/Altronics.

I figured that an alternate solution might be at hand.

Buy a couple of standard HD video cameras (say, $300.00 ~ $400.00 each).
Choose models with remote control (do the remote controls usually operate
the zoom?) and use an external box with pan/tilt capabilities. Use a remote
extender to the camera box, along with power and video feed. Take the output
and feed it into his computer and the total cost can be kept quite low.

Any thoughts?


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
On 12/04/2011 7:53 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
A mate wants a set of security cameras around his home. I called a mate in
the biz and found that the hardware is not badly priced, but the cameras are
very expensive. For a high resolution camera (only), the cost runs to around
$1,500.00 each. He needs to be able to identify faces at around 20 Metres.
This rules out any of the usual solutions from Electus/Altronics.

Obviously you are ill equipped to offer advice on this matter
I figured that an alternate solution might be at hand.

Buy a couple of standard HD video cameras (say, $300.00 ~ $400.00 each).
Choose models with remote control (do the remote controls usually operate
the zoom?) and use an external box with pan/tilt capabilities. Use a remote
extender to the camera box, along with power and video feed. Take the output
and feed it into his computer and the total cost can be kept quite low.

Any thoughts?
Sounds amateurish and is an dreadful concept , fact is wholesale a
good 4 cam analogue installation excluding cable and labour at 540 tvl
1/3" Sony inserts built from generic parts will run over $1200.00 for
fixed cams , legally only a licensed cabler can install most of it and
if you were to do so would be fined heavily , refer this person to
someone with clue in the industry

--
X-No-Archive: Yes
 
Trevor Wilson wrote:

Buy a couple of standard HD video cameras (say, $300.00 ~ $400.00 each).
Choose models with remote control (do the remote controls usually operate
the zoom?) and use an external box with pan/tilt capabilities. Use a remote
extender to the camera box, along with power and video feed. Take the output
and feed it into his computer and the total cost can be kept quite low.

Any thoughts?
Yes, you've never done this before have you? With good reason.

Don't give up your day job.
--
Set mode=Extremely verbose
 
John Tserkezis wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:

Buy a couple of standard HD video cameras (say, $300.00 ~ $400.00
each). Choose models with remote control (do the remote controls
usually operate the zoom?) and use an external box with pan/tilt
capabilities. Use a remote extender to the camera box, along with
power and video feed. Take the output and feed it into his computer
and the total cost can be kept quite low.

Any thoughts?

Yes, you've never done this before have you? With good reason.

Don't give up your day job.
**OK, so you don't know either. I assume you would be able to point out
where I have it wrong, if you could.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
John Tserkezis wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:

Buy a couple of standard HD video cameras (say, $300.00 ~ $400.00
each). Choose models with remote control (do the remote controls
usually operate the zoom?) and use an external box with pan/tilt
capabilities. Use a remote extender to the camera box, along with
power and video feed. Take the output and feed it into his computer
and the total cost can be kept quite low.

Any thoughts?

Yes, you've never done this before have you?
**Oh yeah. I have set up home security systems previously. They used cheap,
shitty cameras. I've never used quality cameras.

With good reason.
Don't give up your day job.
**I'm not. Read my words: I'm helping a mate. I have no intention of doing
the job. I merely posed the question. HD video cameras are quite inexpensive
and my mate has plenty of time on his hands. I will simply point him in the
direction. He will install and wire up. I don't have the time to bugger
around with such things.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
On 12/04/2011 10:07 AM, John Tserkezis wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:

Buy a couple of standard HD video cameras (say, $300.00 ~ $400.00 each).
Choose models with remote control (do the remote controls usually operate
the zoom?) and use an external box with pan/tilt capabilities. Use a remote
extender to the camera box, along with power and video feed. Take the output
and feed it into his computer and the total cost can be kept quite low.

Any thoughts?

Yes, you've never done this before have you? With good reason.

Don't give up your day job.
:)


--
X-No-Archive: Yes
 
Trevor Wilson wrote:

**OK, so you don't know either. I assume you would be able to point out
where I have it wrong, if you could.
It's been a few years since I've worked in the industry, but I'll try
to remember, and keep up with changes.

Buy a couple of standard HD video cameras (say, $300.00 ~ $400.00
each).
A $300-$400 "HD" camera is a combination device, you're not only paying
for the image element and the interface electronics, but also for
features that are directly marketed to end users who intend on hanging
them around their necks, not bolt them to a wall.
As such, you get less image element value for money, and more tourist
value for money.

Dedicated cameras are all image element and interface electronics, and
come standard with mounting bits because they know *their* end users are
going to bolt them to a wall, not wear them around their necks.

Optional extras, such as B/W, Colour, auto-iris, infrared efficacy
(especially for colour cameras where their IR response may not be as
good as your typical monochrome camera). In addition, pan/tilt/zoom etc
are all are options because you may not need certain features in certain
areas, and probably don't want to pay for it either.

In addition, dedicated cameras have optional weatherproof cases,
touristy-style cameras may or may not, so you're gambling somewhat when
it comes to cases, AND their mounting options (waterproof touristy type
cameras only have a neck strap, no provision for bolting to a wall) are
very limited - all bets are off, and it's up to YOU to find mounting method.

I haven't even touched on the interface options of the cameras? Do
they have composite video output as a option? USB? IP? What are the
implications of each, and did you factor in the cost of interface
electronics where required?

Choose models with remote control (do the remote controls
usually operate the zoom?) and use an external box with pan/tilt
capabilities. Use a remote extender to the camera box, along with
power and video feed.
Remote control of pan/tilt/zoom functionality also is better refined,
in that the signals are transmitted during the blanking phase of the
video signal, negating the need for an additional signal cable. Thus
making installation costs lower.
IP capable cameras inherently have two-way communication, so it largely
a moot point as far as additional control cable costs go.

Take the output and feed it into his computer
and the total cost can be kept quite low.
Along with low cost, you also lose the right to use that video footage
in court, if it came to that. Be sure to check your setup is going to
generate court-acceptable footage if you need it, because otherwise
it'll only be good for internal company monitoring (employee theft,
slacking off etc).

Any thoughts?
Yes, I have lots of thoughts, but the ones that are specifically
pertaining to this converstaion include supplied software (for
PC-centric installations), or features on supplied box that are going to
be a HUGE drawcard (or drawback depending on your point of view).
If you can get what you want from something that's sold entirely as a
software solution, then great, but you may be losing out on other
features or configuration options you might need just don't know yet.

Do your homework.

You clearly haven't, because you're posting a statement disguised as a
question.
If you've already made up your mind, then why ask?

You didn't even state if cost (cheap) is the all-important option.
This is a valid point.

If you want full features and are finding if you can get that at
ultra-low cost, there ARE going to be drawbacks. Not only in image
quality, control and storage, but also system management, AND (again, if
it comes to that) what you can legally do with your data once you've got it.

Basically, if your lunch was free, you lose your whining rights.
--
The polls show 8 out of 5 schizophrenics agree!
 
"John Tserkezis" <jt@techniciansyndrome.org.invalid> wrote in message
news:4da3cde1$0$24911$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
Trevor Wilson wrote:

**OK, so you don't know either. I assume you would be able to point out
where I have it wrong, if you could.

It's been a few years since I've worked in the industry, but I'll try
to remember, and keep up with changes.
**NOW we're cooking!

Buy a couple of standard HD video cameras (say, $300.00 ~ $400.00
each).

A $300-$400 "HD" camera is a combination device, you're not only paying
for the image element and the interface electronics, but also for
features that are directly marketed to end users who intend on hanging
them around their necks, not bolt them to a wall.
As such, you get less image element value for money, and more tourist
value for money.
**You'd think so. However, I've examined the output from a $400.00 HD
camera. It is excellent and very likely suitable for the purpose. In fact,
the performance is nothing short of astonishing. In fact, I did some work at
a pub I fitted a sound system to a few years back. They upgraded all their
surveillance equipment to digital (it was all analogue) and I had the
opportunity to play with the equipment. Since the cameras were mounted in
domes (which my mate says is a *very bad thing*) I judged the results as
possibly inferior to a domestic handycam. Of course, I could not do a
side-by-side comparison. I was hoping that someone may have done so.

Dedicated cameras are all image element and interface electronics, and
come standard with mounting bits because they know *their* end users are
going to bolt them to a wall, not wear them around their necks.
**Indeed. I am aware that there is a fair bit of jiggery pokery involved,
but my mate is reasonably handy.

Optional extras, such as B/W, Colour, auto-iris, infrared efficacy
(especially for colour cameras where their IR response may not be as
good as your typical monochrome camera). In addition, pan/tilt/zoom etc
are all are options because you may not need certain features in certain
areas, and probably don't want to pay for it either.
**Pan/tilt empty cases can be purchased quite inexpensively. IR response of
the handicams is unknown to me. Arranging some IR floodlighting is not
difficult, nor that expensive however.

In addition, dedicated cameras have optional weatherproof cases,
touristy-style cameras may or may not, so you're gambling somewhat when
it comes to cases, AND their mounting options (waterproof touristy type
cameras only have a neck strap, no provision for bolting to a wall) are
very limited - all bets are off, and it's up to YOU to find mounting
method.
**Like I said: A weatherproof case is not difficult to obtain, nor onerously
expensive.

I haven't even touched on the interface options of the cameras? Do
they have composite video output as a option? USB? IP? What are the
implications of each, and did you factor in the cost of interface
electronics where required?
**There's where stuff does get interesting. If I can use high speed USB or
Firewire for video and control, then things are simple. If I need to take an
HD feed, then things get a little messy, but not insurmountable. My mate is
willing to keep cables quite short (<5 Metres) to keep things sensible and
cheap. Interface electronics will depend on what the camera feeds out (of
course).

Choose models with remote control (do the remote controls
usually operate the zoom?) and use an external box with pan/tilt
capabilities. Use a remote extender to the camera box, along with
power and video feed.

Remote control of pan/tilt/zoom functionality also is better refined,
in that the signals are transmitted during the blanking phase of the
video signal, negating the need for an additional signal cable. Thus
making installation costs lower.
**Running one or five cables is pretty much inconsequential, given the short
cable runs. I'm happy for him to run separate cables for power, video,
pan/tilt and remote control. It's not a big deal. IF it can be made to work,
of course. I'm relying on the camera having remote zoom capability. This is
something I've only touched on, as the sales droid at JB HI Fi had no idea.
Oh, except for one thing. One part of the Miranda store had a dead zone for
video surveillance. They rigged up a cheap digicam and organised it to work
and, by all reports, it worked fine for their needs.

IP capable cameras inherently have two-way communication, so it largely
a moot point as far as additional control cable costs go.
**Sure. I looked at that option, but, again, the costs of professional
equipment, with adequate resolution (full HD) is quite expensive. If my mate
was prepared to live with (say) VGA resolution, it would be a no-brainer.
I'd just buy him a professional kit and let him hook it all up.

Take the output and feed it into his computer
and the total cost can be kept quite low.

Along with low cost, you also lose the right to use that video footage
in court, if it came to that.
**Not my problem. But I will ensure that he is aware of that issue.

Be sure to check your setup is going to
generate court-acceptable footage if you need it, because otherwise
it'll only be good for internal company monitoring (employee theft,
slacking off etc).
**It is was for commercial premises, I would certainly ONLY use professional
equipment. This is domestic only.

Any thoughts?

Yes, I have lots of thoughts, but the ones that are specifically
pertaining to this converstaion include supplied software (for
PC-centric installations), or features on supplied box that are going to
be a HUGE drawcard (or drawback depending on your point of view).
If you can get what you want from something that's sold entirely as a
software solution, then great, but you may be losing out on other
features or configuration options you might need just don't know yet.

Do your homework.

You clearly haven't, because you're posting a statement disguised as a
question.
If you've already made up your mind, then why ask?
**I was curious if anyone had done what I propose and if it was successful.
If someone had tried it and it had failed, then I would likely can the idea
out of hand.

You didn't even state if cost (cheap) is the all-important option.
This is a valid point.
**Indeed. When I quizzed him on his needs, I went to the usual catalogues
and quickly found that the Electus/Altronics solutions are inadequate for
his needs. My security mate provided the minimum specs of the equipment that
I would need for the job. Then my mind wandered to domestic digicams. And, I
have to say, their performance is surprisingly good.

If you want full features and are finding if you can get that at
ultra-low cost, there ARE going to be drawbacks. Not only in image
quality, control and storage, but also system management, AND (again, if
it comes to that) what you can legally do with your data once you've got
it.
**I expect drawbacks, but the cost is potentially around $1k, compared to
almost $8k for a professional set-up. That is a huge temptation to try it
out. Worst case, my mate is stuck with a couple of domestic digicams and
some cables, that he can't use.

Basically, if your lunch was free, you lose your whining rights.
--
The polls show 8 out of 5 schizophrenics agree!
**Thanks a whole bunch for your input. I appreciate it.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
"Geoff" <Your@email.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9EC5141DB6B94Geoff@81.169.183.62...
"Trevor Wilson" <trevor@rageaudio.com.au> wrote in
news:90hbirFrvkU1@mid.individual.net:

A mate wants a set of security cameras around his home. I called a
mate in the biz and found that the hardware is not badly priced, but
the cameras are very expensive. For a high resolution camera (only),
the cost runs to around $1,500.00 each. He needs to be able to
identify faces at around 20 Metres. This rules out any of the usual
solutions from Electus/Altronics.

I figured that an alternate solution might be at hand.

Buy a couple of standard HD video cameras (say, $300.00 ~ $400.00
each). Choose models with remote control (do the remote controls
usually operate the zoom?) and use an external box with pan/tilt
capabilities. Use a remote extender to the camera box, along with
power and video feed. Take the output and feed it into his computer
and the total cost can be kept quite low.

Any thoughts?



This mob might be worth looking at, they have an Aussie rep and you can
get board cameras for about twice the cost of a webcam, but they are much
nicer cameras.

http://www.theimagingsource.com/en_US/
**Outstanding. Unfortunately, I've been referred to their Australian
distributor, but I will await pricing details. Their product appear to be
almost ideal for my needs.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
On 12-Apr-11 3:10 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote:

http://www.theimagingsource.com/en_US/

**Outstanding. Unfortunately, I've been referred to their Australian
distributor, but I will await pricing details. Their product appear to be
almost ideal for my needs.
http://www.priceusa.com.au/about.html
might work, if the local price isn't good.

Cheers Don...

=============


--
Don McKenzie

Dontronics Blog: http://www.GodzillaSeaMonkey.com
Dontronics Site Map: http://www.dontronics.com/sitemap
E-Mail Contact Page: http://www.dontronics.com/email
Web Camera Page: http://www.dontronics.com/webcam
No More Damn Spam: http://www.dontronics.com/spam

These products will reduce in price by 5% every month:
http://www.dontronics-shop.com/minus-5-every-month.html
http://www.dontronics-shop.com/ics.html

Bare Proto PCB for PIC or AVR projects?
"I'd buy that for a Dollar!".
 
Trevor Wilson wrote:

.....IR response of
the handicams is unknown to me. Arranging some IR floodlighting is not
difficult, nor that expensive however.
Generally speaking, the IR sensitivity of monochrome cameras is better
than colour cameras, but I've been made aware of certain colour cameras
with a better-than-usual IR response. I have no idea how they do it, if
it's done entirely within the CCD, or they use composite CCDs to do the
job, either way, they cost more. :-(

I haven't even touched on the interface options of the cameras? Do
they have composite video output as a option? USB? IP? What are the
implications of each, and did you factor in the cost of interface
electronics where required?

**There's where stuff does get interesting. If I can use high speed USB or
Firewire for video and control, then things are simple. If I need to take an
HD feed, then things get a little messy, but not insurmountable. My mate is
willing to keep cables quite short (<5 Metres) to keep things sensible and
cheap. Interface electronics will depend on what the camera feeds out (of
course).
That's where things fell over from my thinking. You're very rarely
going to see a less than 5 metre length for ANY single CCTV camera, let
alone most or all of the cameras, so that complicates things if you want
to use tourist grade cameras.

USB by itself (just a raw cable) is good for about 5 metres or less.
There are protocol timing issues you cannot work around. What you CAN
get however, is a USB extender, (Around $40 at the retail level, cheaper
if you look around) that changes the protocols to give you something
like 50 metres with eithernet cable.

I have no idea what can be done with firewire, with the release of
USB3, and it being backward compatible with USB2, AND it being faster
than the current firewire, there's no incentive to try it either.

USB loading *might* be an issue. If you're using high def cameras, AND
they require a fair bit of the USB comms loading, you can easily limit
out. Basically, it's like you have an 8-port USB hub on your computer
all with high speed devices trying to squeeze their entire bandwidth
over a single USB interface.
Your typical motherboard has perhaps 2-3 USB hosts, with 2-3 way hubs
at each one. What you need to do is find out which plug goes where, and
evenly distribute the cameras across all of them. How easy this is
varies from nearly impossible to reasonably easy with some testing, the
right tools, and a bit of know-how.
However, not ever having tried it myself, I really don't know how much
USB bandwidth a typical live HD video feed eats up, so some testing here
would need to be done first.

If you're talking composite video, then it's still ifffy. Many
consumer grade cameras don't offer that as an option (some do with funky
conversion cables), but at least you have some luxury with cable length.
200+ metres with RG59/U, or longer if you spend more on cable.
I've heard some people use baluns with twisted pair (Ethernet style)
cable, with some success, but you can't expect real length improvement
unless you use an active interface.

**Running one or five cables is pretty much inconsequential, given the short
cable runs. I'm happy for him to run separate cables for power, video,
pan/tilt and remote control. It's not a big deal. IF it can be made to work,
of course. I'm relying on the camera having remote zoom capability. This is
something I've only touched on, as the sales droid at JB HI Fi had no idea.
You're buying your stock from JB HIFI?
Sorry dude, I'm trying here, but I *REALLY* can't help you if your
stock supplier is JB HIFI.

Oh, except for one thing. One part of the Miranda store had a dead zone for
video surveillance. They rigged up a cheap digicam and organised it to work
and, by all reports, it worked fine for their needs.
This is something the original fitters should have handled.
I've had an unfortunate amount of dealing with idiot installers too.

Along with low cost, you also lose the right to use that video footage
in court, if it came to that.

**Not my problem. But I will ensure that he is aware of that issue.
:) Good luck with that. The first time he needs to take someone who
clearly appears on video to court for stealing (or whatever), and the
other lawyers start asking questions, the claim falls flat on its face.

You WILL get blamed for that, I assure you. At least get all that in
writing, so you cover your arse. It's also a ripe recipe for losing a
friend (the voice of experience).

**It is was for commercial premises, I would certainly ONLY use professional
equipment. This is domestic only.
In that case, it easier in that he's probably less likely to take court
action against an unknown thief, on account that he probably can't
afford the entire legal course to win back the cost of a 2nd hand TV.

**I was curious if anyone had done what I propose and if it was successful.
If someone had tried it and it had failed, then I would likely can the idea
out of hand.
If you want easy, something like webcams with POE (Power Over
Eithernet) makes things REALLY easy, if not a bit more costly.
Out of the box, it works for monitoring, many come with bundled
software that lets you do recording too. It's not feature-packed by any
means, but overall, it ends up by far less stressful.

You didn't even state if cost (cheap) is the all-important option.
This is a valid point.

**Indeed. When I quizzed him on his needs, I went to the usual catalogues
and quickly found that the Electus/Altronics solutions are inadequate for
his needs. My security mate provided the minimum specs of the equipment that
I would need for the job. Then my mind wandered to domestic digicams. And, I
have to say, their performance is surprisingly good.
What you're likely to find at Jaycar is along the lines of the cheap
chinese CCTV offers at an inflated cost. If you want more than that,
you need to spend more.

Kinda like a mate of mine who back in the 70's welded a lawnmower motor
onto a bicycle, along with a lever for the clutch, and another smaller
level for throttle.
On an ordinary steel framed and wheeled bike, he managed to get it to
nearly 100Km/h before shitting his pants (they used a following car as
the speedo). He said he never worked out how the bike held together,
nor how it stayed upright at all. Let alone the fact he lived to tell
the story. They dumped it into the boot, drove back, dismantled it and
never tried again.
He could have purchased a normal motorcycle for little more than the
money and trouble he spent on this pointless venture.
In the short future, he did just that. The first of many motorcycles
he's owned over the years. And happy with all of them.


I suppose what I'm trying to say is, tell your mate to be done with it
and buy a motorbike.
--
Permission for lip to wobble, Sir?
 
"Trevor Wilson" <trevor@rageaudio.com.au> wrote in
news:90hbirFrvkU1@mid.individual.net:

A mate wants a set of security cameras around his home. I called a
mate in the biz and found that the hardware is not badly priced, but
the cameras are very expensive. For a high resolution camera (only),
the cost runs to around $1,500.00 each. He needs to be able to
identify faces at around 20 Metres. This rules out any of the usual
solutions from Electus/Altronics.

I figured that an alternate solution might be at hand.

Buy a couple of standard HD video cameras (say, $300.00 ~ $400.00
each). Choose models with remote control (do the remote controls
usually operate the zoom?) and use an external box with pan/tilt
capabilities. Use a remote extender to the camera box, along with
power and video feed. Take the output and feed it into his computer
and the total cost can be kept quite low.

Any thoughts?
This mob might be worth looking at, they have an Aussie rep and you can
get board cameras for about twice the cost of a webcam, but they are much
nicer cameras.

http://www.theimagingsource.com/en_US/
 
Trevor Wilson wrote:
Take the output
and feed it into his computer and the total cost can be kept quite low.
And there is your problem; high quality video into garbage. You would
need a very high definition capture/converter card/dongle.

Also, it isn't just the cameras, but the constant lighting needed 24x365.
 
On 12/04/2011 5:08 PM, terryc wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:
Take the output and feed it into his computer and the total cost can
be kept quite low.

And there is your problem; high quality video into garbage. You would
need a very high definition capture/converter card/dongle.

Also, it isn't just the cameras, but the constant lighting needed 24x365.
A dedicated dvr is the right solution and atm are cheap

--
X-No-Archive: Yes
 
On 12/04/2011 7:53 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
A mate wants a set of security cameras around his home. I called a mate in
the biz and found that the hardware is not badly priced, but the cameras are
very expensive. For a high resolution camera (only), the cost runs to around
$1,500.00 each. He needs to be able to identify faces at around 20 Metres.
This rules out any of the usual solutions from Electus/Altronics.

I figured that an alternate solution might be at hand.

Buy a couple of standard HD video cameras (say, $300.00 ~ $400.00 each).
Choose models with remote control (do the remote controls usually operate
the zoom?) and use an external box with pan/tilt capabilities. Use a remote
extender to the camera box, along with power and video feed. Take the output
and feed it into his computer and the total cost can be kept quite low.

Any thoughts?


At $300-500 this would appear to fit the bill.

http://files.dlink.com.au/Products/DCS-5300/Datasheet/DCS-5300_datasheet_03.pdf

http://www.shopbot.com.au/pp-d-link-dcs-5300-price-12118.html
 
hi, read this :


http://www.pixim.com/assets/files/product_and_tech/540HTVL_Max_WP_Final.pdf

http://www.axis.com/products/video/camera/ccd_cmos.htm


below is part email of a enquiery i sent ;


This camera is 640x480 pixels (VGA), H.264 Real Time 30fps,
The camera with compression H.264 is better than other cameras.

I think you can check it by your self,here it is a DEMO for this camera:
http://002abuc.nwsvr.com

The user name is admin,password is 123456.Please do not change the setting
about this camera,and for your first time log in,you should download the
software.


mark



"Trevor Wilson" <trevor@rageaudio.com.au> wrote in message
news:90hbirFrvkU1@mid.individual.net...
A mate wants a set of security cameras around his home. I called a mate in
the biz and found that the hardware is not badly priced, but the cameras
are very expensive. For a high resolution camera (only), the cost runs to
around $1,500.00 each. He needs to be able to identify faces at around 20
Metres. This rules out any of the usual solutions from Electus/Altronics.

I figured that an alternate solution might be at hand.

Buy a couple of standard HD video cameras (say, $300.00 ~ $400.00 each).
Choose models with remote control (do the remote controls usually operate
the zoom?) and use an external box with pan/tilt capabilities. Use a
remote extender to the camera box, along with power and video feed. Take
the output and feed it into his computer and the total cost can be kept
quite low.

Any thoughts?


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
On 2011-04-12, Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au> wrote:


**Running one or five cables is pretty much inconsequential, given the short
cable runs. I'm happy for him to run separate cables for power, video,
pan/tilt and remote control. It's not a big deal. IF it can be made to work,
of course. I'm relying on the camera having remote zoom capability. This is
something I've only touched on, as the sales droid at JB HI Fi had no idea.
if you can't get remote zoom using "LIRC and a led" you might have to
use a couple of solenoids or modify the camera replcing the switch
contacts with reed relay contacts.



--
⚂⚃ 100% natural

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
 
On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 13:58:27 +1000, John Tserkezis
<jt@techniciansyndrome.org.invalid> wrote:

<snip>

Interesting thread. On the topic of security cameras, I have an issue
I've been meaning to looking into, namely how to stop spider webs in
and around outdoor cameras... many of mine are only good for 2-3 days
before spider webs obscure the night view and require cleaning. Any
ideas, anyone?

Also, been wondering about the viability or running external IR
lights? Do they even exist at all? I did have a look around several
months ago but didn't find anything along those lines. Cheers
 
On 17-Apr-11 10:57 AM, Jeßus wrote:
On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 13:58:27 +1000, John Tserkezis
jt@techniciansyndrome.org.invalid> wrote:

snip

Interesting thread. On the topic of security cameras, I have an issue
I've been meaning to looking into, namely how to stop spider webs in
and around outdoor cameras... many of mine are only good for 2-3 days
before spider webs obscure the night view and require cleaning. Any
ideas, anyone?
I have 5 permanent security cameras, here is one of them:
http://www.dontronics.com/webcam/

A feather duster every 2 or 3 weeks generally sorts them out.
Perhaps it a geographical problem. I am in Melbourne.

Cheers Don...

================

--
Don McKenzie

Dontronics Blog: http://www.GodzillaSeaMonkey.com
Dontronics Site Map: http://www.dontronics.com/sitemap
E-Mail Contact Page: http://www.dontronics.com/email
Web Camera Page: http://www.dontronics.com/webcam
No More Damn Spam: http://www.dontronics.com/spam

These products will reduce in price by 5% every month:
http://www.dontronics-shop.com/minus-5-every-month.html
http://www.dontronics-shop.com/ics.html

Bare Proto PCB for PIC or AVR projects?
"I'd buy that for a Dollar!".
 
On Apr 17, 10:57 am, Jeßus <n...@all.invalid> wrote:
On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 13:58:27 +1000, John Tserkezis

j...@techniciansyndrome.org.invalid> wrote:

snip

Interesting thread. On the topic of security cameras, I have an issue
I've been meaning to looking into, namely how to stop spider webs in
and around outdoor cameras... many of mine are only good for 2-3 days
before spider webs obscure the night view and require cleaning. Any
ideas, anyone?
Depending on how far you want to go, could use one of those timed
aerosol sprayers
(like they use in public toilets) load with insect spray and get it to
give a burst every day,
in the direction of where the spiders tend to start from.

Some method of wind detection could be used, (either a rotating vane,
or a hanging metal flap connected to a switch)
so as the spray only happens in still air, to avoid spray coming back
onto the lens and fogging it.

Another method - if the webs are relatively close might be to have a
bit of bent wire - in a semicircle, motorised that will to a sweep
out around the front of the camera, sweeping the webs away every day
or so, or on demand and coming to
rest against the wall.


I think you will find that if you destroy the webs often enough in the
same place, the spider will go elsewhere.
Hence why you don't often see spider webs across walkways etc, where
there will be plenty where people don't
go, and don't disturb them.

..





Also, been wondering about the viability or running external IR
lights? Do they even exist at all? I did have a look around several
months ago but didn't find anything along those lines. Cheers
 

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