Schematic wanted

"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@virginmedia.com> wrote in message
news:gxwmm.27960$_Q3.26107@newsfe20.ams2...
"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:33ans3.uri.19.1@news.alt.net...
On Sat, 29 Aug 2009 22:15:44 +0100, "Gareth Magennis"
gareth.magennis@virginmedia.com>wrote:


"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:332vhb.ar7.19.1@news.alt.net...
Peavey MX VTX 1x12 combo amp.

This is my amp and had been sitting for a year or so. When I switched
the standby rocker to low I heard a mild pop from the speaker and
after that just a faint amount of signal from the guitar out the
speaker. Plus the status led doesn't light. I've never had problems
and the tubes are a matched quad Philips 7591a JAN/NOS with low hours.

I'm sure the B+ is missing, the tubes don't heat other than the
filaments. And I probably don't really and absolutely need the
schematic but would like to have one on hand regardless.






Hmmm, sounds of pennies dropping - you didn't perchance happen to buy a
matched quad of 7591 valves and plug them into your amp meant for 6L6
without first rewiring the sockets?

Do you have some mental issues?

http://www.vacuumtubes.com/6l6.html

Scroll down to the 7581a/KT66 paragraph.

Yes I know before you whine about it I incorrectly labeled them as
7591a only because the amp had been stored for a couple years
and I had forgotten the exact number.

However both are pinned the same and have like characteristics.

All this aside, the amp was stored in working condition. Taken out of
storage and promptly blew the HV fuse. Fuse was replaced, amp was
load tested for an hour at 50% output and passed with flying colors.

Now, be a good boy and piss off.




7591A: http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/show.php?des=7591A
6L6: http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/show.php?des=6L6


Different pinouts.
However, 75 *8* 1, as Meat has now corrected this to, and 6L6, same pinouts
....

Arfa
 
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:X7Gmm.6177$uC1.5668@newsfe18.ams2...
"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@virginmedia.com> wrote in message
news:gxwmm.27960$_Q3.26107@newsfe20.ams2...

"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:33ans3.uri.19.1@news.alt.net...
On Sat, 29 Aug 2009 22:15:44 +0100, "Gareth Magennis"
gareth.magennis@virginmedia.com>wrote:


"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:332vhb.ar7.19.1@news.alt.net...
Peavey MX VTX 1x12 combo amp.

This is my amp and had been sitting for a year or so. When I switched
the standby rocker to low I heard a mild pop from the speaker and
after that just a faint amount of signal from the guitar out the
speaker. Plus the status led doesn't light. I've never had problems
and the tubes are a matched quad Philips 7591a JAN/NOS with low hours.

I'm sure the B+ is missing, the tubes don't heat other than the
filaments. And I probably don't really and absolutely need the
schematic but would like to have one on hand regardless.






Hmmm, sounds of pennies dropping - you didn't perchance happen to buy a
matched quad of 7591 valves and plug them into your amp meant for 6L6
without first rewiring the sockets?

Do you have some mental issues?

http://www.vacuumtubes.com/6l6.html

Scroll down to the 7581a/KT66 paragraph.

Yes I know before you whine about it I incorrectly labeled them as
7591a only because the amp had been stored for a couple years
and I had forgotten the exact number.

However both are pinned the same and have like characteristics.

All this aside, the amp was stored in working condition. Taken out of
storage and promptly blew the HV fuse. Fuse was replaced, amp was
load tested for an hour at 50% output and passed with flying colors.

Now, be a good boy and piss off.




7591A: http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/show.php?des=7591A
6L6: http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/show.php?des=6L6


Different pinouts.


However, 75 *8* 1, as Meat has now corrected this to, and 6L6, same
pinouts ...

Arfa

Yes I read that too, along with his incorrect statement that 7591 and 7981
pinouts are the same. They are not. I am correcting him here as he was
accusing me of being in error. I am not.



I think this should now be the end of it.
 
On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 02:59:16 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>wrote:

"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@virginmedia.com> wrote in message
news:gxwmm.27960$_Q3.26107@newsfe20.ams2...

"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:33ans3.uri.19.1@news.alt.net...
On Sat, 29 Aug 2009 22:15:44 +0100, "Gareth Magennis"
gareth.magennis@virginmedia.com>wrote:


"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:332vhb.ar7.19.1@news.alt.net...
Peavey MX VTX 1x12 combo amp.

This is my amp and had been sitting for a year or so. When I switched
the standby rocker to low I heard a mild pop from the speaker and
after that just a faint amount of signal from the guitar out the
speaker. Plus the status led doesn't light. I've never had problems
and the tubes are a matched quad Philips 7591a JAN/NOS with low hours.

I'm sure the B+ is missing, the tubes don't heat other than the
filaments. And I probably don't really and absolutely need the
schematic but would like to have one on hand regardless.






Hmmm, sounds of pennies dropping - you didn't perchance happen to buy a
matched quad of 7591 valves and plug them into your amp meant for 6L6
without first rewiring the sockets?

Do you have some mental issues?

http://www.vacuumtubes.com/6l6.html

Scroll down to the 7581a/KT66 paragraph.

Yes I know before you whine about it I incorrectly labeled them as
7591a only because the amp had been stored for a couple years
and I had forgotten the exact number.

However both are pinned the same and have like characteristics.

All this aside, the amp was stored in working condition. Taken out of
storage and promptly blew the HV fuse. Fuse was replaced, amp was
load tested for an hour at 50% output and passed with flying colors.

Now, be a good boy and piss off.




7591A: http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/show.php?des=7591A
6L6: http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/show.php?des=6L6


Different pinouts.


However, 75 *8* 1, as Meat has now corrected this to, and 6L6, same pinouts
...

Arfa
Don't bother, Gareth is a pedantic pisswit playing some kind of
idiotic game.

Oh and I did find out what was causing the B+ fuse to blow. Seems I
have a dodgy SJ-6465 tube driver transistor. Wouldn't blow the fuse on
low power since the B+ was only 262VDC. But as soon as I switched to
high power it drove two tubes into max conduction. The transistor
wasn't shorted but very leaky. I'm going to replace both drivers (each
responsible for two tubes) with a couple MJ15024 I had in the parts
bin. They are about double the watts/current/volts. I used them all
the time for the old Soundcraftsmen amps I used to repair as outputs.

One odd thing about this amp is it doesn't seem to be class I
recognize (not that it ever hampered repairs not identifying them).

Pin 4 or each tube pair driven by the SJ6465 connects to the primary
of the audio OT, one tube in the pair uses a 100 ohm 5 watt resistor,
the other does not. Pin 5 of all tubes fed 15VDC through a 100 ohm
resistor then a 1.5K ohm resistor on pin 5 of each tube. Pins 1,8 are
direct coupled to the collectors of the two SJ-6465 drivers. Does this
ring any bells?
 
"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:33damo.aa5.19.6@news.alt.net...
On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 02:59:16 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>wrote:


"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@virginmedia.com> wrote in message
news:gxwmm.27960$_Q3.26107@newsfe20.ams2...

"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:33ans3.uri.19.1@news.alt.net...
On Sat, 29 Aug 2009 22:15:44 +0100, "Gareth Magennis"
gareth.magennis@virginmedia.com>wrote:


"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:332vhb.ar7.19.1@news.alt.net...
Peavey MX VTX 1x12 combo amp.

This is my amp and had been sitting for a year or so. When I switched
the standby rocker to low I heard a mild pop from the speaker and
after that just a faint amount of signal from the guitar out the
speaker. Plus the status led doesn't light. I've never had problems
and the tubes are a matched quad Philips 7591a JAN/NOS with low
hours.

I'm sure the B+ is missing, the tubes don't heat other than the
filaments. And I probably don't really and absolutely need the
schematic but would like to have one on hand regardless.






Hmmm, sounds of pennies dropping - you didn't perchance happen to buy
a
matched quad of 7591 valves and plug them into your amp meant for 6L6
without first rewiring the sockets?

Do you have some mental issues?

http://www.vacuumtubes.com/6l6.html

Scroll down to the 7581a/KT66 paragraph.

Yes I know before you whine about it I incorrectly labeled them as
7591a only because the amp had been stored for a couple years
and I had forgotten the exact number.

However both are pinned the same and have like characteristics.

All this aside, the amp was stored in working condition. Taken out of
storage and promptly blew the HV fuse. Fuse was replaced, amp was
load tested for an hour at 50% output and passed with flying colors.

Now, be a good boy and piss off.




7591A: http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/show.php?des=7591A
6L6: http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/show.php?des=6L6


Different pinouts.


However, 75 *8* 1, as Meat has now corrected this to, and 6L6, same
pinouts
...

Arfa


Don't bother, Gareth is a pedantic pisswit playing some kind of
idiotic game.

Oh and I did find out what was causing the B+ fuse to blow. Seems I
have a dodgy SJ-6465 tube driver transistor. Wouldn't blow the fuse on
low power since the B+ was only 262VDC. But as soon as I switched to
high power it drove two tubes into max conduction. The transistor
wasn't shorted but very leaky. I'm going to replace both drivers (each
responsible for two tubes) with a couple MJ15024 I had in the parts
bin. They are about double the watts/current/volts. I used them all
the time for the old Soundcraftsmen amps I used to repair as outputs.

One odd thing about this amp is it doesn't seem to be class I
recognize (not that it ever hampered repairs not identifying them).

Pin 4 or each tube pair driven by the SJ6465 connects to the primary
of the audio OT, one tube in the pair uses a 100 ohm 5 watt resistor,
the other does not. Pin 5 of all tubes fed 15VDC through a 100 ohm
resistor then a 1.5K ohm resistor on pin 5 of each tube. Pins 1,8 are
direct coupled to the collectors of the two SJ-6465 drivers. Does this
ring any bells?
That sounds an odd configuration. Fixed positive bias on the control grids
(pin 5) and driven cathodes (pin 8) ? Screen grids to (taps on ?? ) the
output tranny ? Presumably, the anodes (pin 3) also go to the tranny ? There
is a configuration called 'ultra linear' where the screen grids are fed from
taps some distance down each limb of the OPT primary.

http://web.telia.com/~u43200663/blocks/ulaudioamps.htm

Some variation of that, maybe ?

Arfa
 
On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 15:43:14 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>wrote:

"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:33damo.aa5.19.6@news.alt.net...
On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 02:59:16 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>wrote:


"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@virginmedia.com> wrote in message
news:gxwmm.27960$_Q3.26107@newsfe20.ams2...

"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:33ans3.uri.19.1@news.alt.net...
On Sat, 29 Aug 2009 22:15:44 +0100, "Gareth Magennis"
gareth.magennis@virginmedia.com>wrote:


"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:332vhb.ar7.19.1@news.alt.net...
Peavey MX VTX 1x12 combo amp.

This is my amp and had been sitting for a year or so. When I switched
the standby rocker to low I heard a mild pop from the speaker and
after that just a faint amount of signal from the guitar out the
speaker. Plus the status led doesn't light. I've never had problems
and the tubes are a matched quad Philips 7591a JAN/NOS with low
hours.

I'm sure the B+ is missing, the tubes don't heat other than the
filaments. And I probably don't really and absolutely need the
schematic but would like to have one on hand regardless.






Hmmm, sounds of pennies dropping - you didn't perchance happen to buy
a
matched quad of 7591 valves and plug them into your amp meant for 6L6
without first rewiring the sockets?

Do you have some mental issues?

http://www.vacuumtubes.com/6l6.html

Scroll down to the 7581a/KT66 paragraph.

Yes I know before you whine about it I incorrectly labeled them as
7591a only because the amp had been stored for a couple years
and I had forgotten the exact number.

However both are pinned the same and have like characteristics.

All this aside, the amp was stored in working condition. Taken out of
storage and promptly blew the HV fuse. Fuse was replaced, amp was
load tested for an hour at 50% output and passed with flying colors.

Now, be a good boy and piss off.




7591A: http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/show.php?des=7591A
6L6: http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/show.php?des=6L6


Different pinouts.


However, 75 *8* 1, as Meat has now corrected this to, and 6L6, same
pinouts
...

Arfa


Don't bother, Gareth is a pedantic pisswit playing some kind of
idiotic game.

Oh and I did find out what was causing the B+ fuse to blow. Seems I
have a dodgy SJ-6465 tube driver transistor. Wouldn't blow the fuse on
low power since the B+ was only 262VDC. But as soon as I switched to
high power it drove two tubes into max conduction. The transistor
wasn't shorted but very leaky. I'm going to replace both drivers (each
responsible for two tubes) with a couple MJ15024 I had in the parts
bin. They are about double the watts/current/volts. I used them all
the time for the old Soundcraftsmen amps I used to repair as outputs.

One odd thing about this amp is it doesn't seem to be class I
recognize (not that it ever hampered repairs not identifying them).

Pin 4 or each tube pair driven by the SJ6465 connects to the primary
of the audio OT, one tube in the pair uses a 100 ohm 5 watt resistor,
the other does not. Pin 5 of all tubes fed 15VDC through a 100 ohm
resistor then a 1.5K ohm resistor on pin 5 of each tube. Pins 1,8 are
direct coupled to the collectors of the two SJ-6465 drivers. Does this
ring any bells?

That sounds an odd configuration. Fixed positive bias on the control grids
(pin 5) and driven cathodes (pin 8) ? Screen grids to (taps on ?? ) the
output tranny ? Presumably, the anodes (pin 3) also go to the tranny ? There
is a configuration called 'ultra linear' where the screen grids are fed from
taps some distance down each limb of the OPT primary.

http://web.telia.com/~u43200663/blocks/ulaudioamps.htm

Some variation of that, maybe ?

Arfa
Yeh somewhat similar. Here have a look for yourself.

http://www.ampix.org/albums/userpics/10003/PV_MX_VTX.pdf

I've owned Peavey amps for 30 years. First was an Artist 115 and I
still own it albeit I've recapped it and fixed a couple problems
caused by age. It has a more traditional final stage similar to Fender
100 watt finals. Second Peavey I owned was a 130 watt SS 1x12 which
looks identical to this MX. I used to play through both direct in
bypassing the tone stack using a Peavey Tube Fex. Blew the Scorpion 12
in the SS amp and bought a replacement on Ebay. The Black Widow12 in
the MX is indestructible however it is not the most versatile speaker
sound-wise. I have a Peavey 4x12 cabinet loaded with 4 JBL's that has
a better response range. Going to be working on my Laney AOR Pro Tube
50 today. I've fitted it with a new Fender audio tranny I had ordered
as a spare. Wont have the impedence taps as the original did but it
will do the job at 4ohms.
 
That sounds an odd configuration. Fixed positive bias on the control grids
(pin 5) and driven cathodes (pin 8) ? Screen grids to (taps on ?? ) the
output tranny ? Presumably, the anodes (pin 3) also go to the tranny ?
There
is a configuration called 'ultra linear' where the screen grids are fed
from
taps some distance down each limb of the OPT primary.

http://web.telia.com/~u43200663/blocks/ulaudioamps.htm

Some variation of that, maybe ?

Arfa


Yeh somewhat similar. Here have a look for yourself.

http://www.ampix.org/albums/userpics/10003/PV_MX_VTX.pdf

I've owned Peavey amps for 30 years. First was an Artist 115 and I
still own it albeit I've recapped it and fixed a couple problems
caused by age. It has a more traditional final stage similar to Fender
100 watt finals. Second Peavey I owned was a 130 watt SS 1x12 which
looks identical to this MX. I used to play through both direct in
bypassing the tone stack using a Peavey Tube Fex. Blew the Scorpion 12
in the SS amp and bought a replacement on Ebay. The Black Widow12 in
the MX is indestructible however it is not the most versatile speaker
sound-wise. I have a Peavey 4x12 cabinet loaded with 4 JBL's that has
a better response range. Going to be working on my Laney AOR Pro Tube
50 today. I've fitted it with a new Fender audio tranny I had ordered
as a spare. Wont have the impedence taps as the original did but it
will do the job at 4ohms.
Wheeee ! That really *is* an odd configuration, and one that I don't recall
ever having seen before ... With the screen grids tapped down the tranny
below the anodes, I guess that it has got to be a variant of the basic
'Ultra Linear' scheme, but why do two of the tubes have a bloody great power
resistor in series with the screen, and two not ? Cathodes are commoned, as
are the control grids, so you would expect the operating conditions of all
of the tubes to be the same, except that they won't be (quite) with those
resistors there. I suppose that the actual physical circuit really is like
that ? Not just that the schematic has been drawn wrongly, and the resistors
should be shown north and south of the screen grid junction points, so each
one feeding both screens of one tube pair ?

The drive scheme is also odd. With +15v on the grids, the cathodes must be
up at what ? +50v maybe ? Can't remember what the typical bias level for a
6L6 in AB is, but around -35v I would guess ? So why use a low Z cathode
drive, I wonder ? Seems a complicated way of going about what is a
fundamentally a straightforward task, when tackled textbook, like in a Vox
or Fender or Marshall, or just about any other two or four tube tetrode /
pentode output stage. I can quite see how a failed or leaky transistor such
as you had, would lead to a massive shift in the bias in totally the wrong
(well, undesirable, anyway) direction, driving a tube pair to full
saturation. That alone makes it a questionable design to me, but I'm sure we
must be missing some clever bit of design philosophy here.

Anyone else got any thoughts or insights into the reasoning behind this odd
design ?

Arfa
 
On Wed, 2 Sep 2009 01:51:40 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>wrote:

That sounds an odd configuration. Fixed positive bias on the control grids
(pin 5) and driven cathodes (pin 8) ? Screen grids to (taps on ?? ) the
output tranny ? Presumably, the anodes (pin 3) also go to the tranny ?
There
is a configuration called 'ultra linear' where the screen grids are fed
from
taps some distance down each limb of the OPT primary.

http://web.telia.com/~u43200663/blocks/ulaudioamps.htm

Some variation of that, maybe ?

Arfa


Yeh somewhat similar. Here have a look for yourself.

http://www.ampix.org/albums/userpics/10003/PV_MX_VTX.pdf

I've owned Peavey amps for 30 years. First was an Artist 115 and I
still own it albeit I've recapped it and fixed a couple problems
caused by age. It has a more traditional final stage similar to Fender
100 watt finals. Second Peavey I owned was a 130 watt SS 1x12 which
looks identical to this MX. I used to play through both direct in
bypassing the tone stack using a Peavey Tube Fex. Blew the Scorpion 12
in the SS amp and bought a replacement on Ebay. The Black Widow12 in
the MX is indestructible however it is not the most versatile speaker
sound-wise. I have a Peavey 4x12 cabinet loaded with 4 JBL's that has
a better response range. Going to be working on my Laney AOR Pro Tube
50 today. I've fitted it with a new Fender audio tranny I had ordered
as a spare. Wont have the impedence taps as the original did but it
will do the job at 4ohms.

Wheeee ! That really *is* an odd configuration, and one that I don't recall
ever having seen before ... With the screen grids tapped down the tranny
below the anodes, I guess that it has got to be a variant of the basic
'Ultra Linear' scheme, but why do two of the tubes have a bloody great power
resistor in series with the screen, and two not ? Cathodes are commoned, as
are the control grids, so you would expect the operating conditions of all
of the tubes to be the same, except that they won't be (quite) with those
resistors there. I suppose that the actual physical circuit really is like
that ? Not just that the schematic has been drawn wrongly, and the resistors
should be shown north and south of the screen grid junction points, so each
one feeding both screens of one tube pair ?
First of all the Laney AOR 50 absolutely screams with the Fender iron
at the output. Two Sovtek EL34's at 400vdc plate and biased around
-39vdc. I used my Fender Twin as a speaker cabinet since it is back in
my work area and has two Weber Californian vintage style 12s. I swear
the Laney is just as loud as the 100 Twin amp.

Back to the Peavey MX VTX. Yes the schematic is correct. I didn't take
any voltage measurements since there were very few on the print. But I
did verify the plate and the 15vdc and whatever else was in the drive
stage per the print.

The drive scheme is also odd. With +15v on the grids, the cathodes must be
up at what ? +50v maybe ? Can't remember what the typical bias level for a
6L6 in AB is, but around -35v I would guess ? So why use a low Z cathode
drive, I wonder ? Seems a complicated way of going about what is a
fundamentally a straightforward task, when tackled textbook, like in a Vox
or Fender or Marshall, or just about any other two or four tube tetrode /
pentode output stage. I can quite see how a failed or leaky transistor such
as you had, would lead to a massive shift in the bias in totally the wrong
(well, undesirable, anyway) direction, driving a tube pair to full
saturation. That alone makes it a questionable design to me, but I'm sure we
must be missing some clever bit of design philosophy here.
The philosophy is to lightly fuse the B+ :) I suppose the design has
something to do with the fact that the low power setting drops just
the plates to 262vdc so anything besides linear or cathode biasing
wouldn't track the drop from 525 to 262 unlike placing a variac at the
mains where everything drops.

Anyone else got any thoughts or insights into the reasoning behind this odd
design ?

Arfa
Yep I'd like to be educated on this desing too. Don't like repairing
things that I haven't a clue as to the operation.
 
"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:33ihj5.h8o.19.1@news.alt.net...
On Wed, 2 Sep 2009 01:51:40 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>wrote:



That sounds an odd configuration. Fixed positive bias on the control
grids
(pin 5) and driven cathodes (pin 8) ? Screen grids to (taps on ?? ) the
output tranny ? Presumably, the anodes (pin 3) also go to the tranny ?
There
is a configuration called 'ultra linear' where the screen grids are fed
from
taps some distance down each limb of the OPT primary.

http://web.telia.com/~u43200663/blocks/ulaudioamps.htm

Some variation of that, maybe ?

Arfa


Yeh somewhat similar. Here have a look for yourself.

http://www.ampix.org/albums/userpics/10003/PV_MX_VTX.pdf

I've owned Peavey amps for 30 years. First was an Artist 115 and I
still own it albeit I've recapped it and fixed a couple problems
caused by age. It has a more traditional final stage similar to Fender
100 watt finals. Second Peavey I owned was a 130 watt SS 1x12 which
looks identical to this MX. I used to play through both direct in
bypassing the tone stack using a Peavey Tube Fex. Blew the Scorpion 12
in the SS amp and bought a replacement on Ebay. The Black Widow12 in
the MX is indestructible however it is not the most versatile speaker
sound-wise. I have a Peavey 4x12 cabinet loaded with 4 JBL's that has
a better response range. Going to be working on my Laney AOR Pro Tube
50 today. I've fitted it with a new Fender audio tranny I had ordered
as a spare. Wont have the impedence taps as the original did but it
will do the job at 4ohms.

Wheeee ! That really *is* an odd configuration, and one that I don't
recall
ever having seen before ... With the screen grids tapped down the tranny
below the anodes, I guess that it has got to be a variant of the basic
'Ultra Linear' scheme, but why do two of the tubes have a bloody great
power
resistor in series with the screen, and two not ? Cathodes are commoned,
as
are the control grids, so you would expect the operating conditions of all
of the tubes to be the same, except that they won't be (quite) with those
resistors there. I suppose that the actual physical circuit really is like
that ? Not just that the schematic has been drawn wrongly, and the
resistors
should be shown north and south of the screen grid junction points, so
each
one feeding both screens of one tube pair ?

First of all the Laney AOR 50 absolutely screams with the Fender iron
at the output. Two Sovtek EL34's at 400vdc plate and biased around
-39vdc. I used my Fender Twin as a speaker cabinet since it is back in
my work area and has two Weber Californian vintage style 12s. I swear
the Laney is just as loud as the 100 Twin amp.

Back to the Peavey MX VTX. Yes the schematic is correct. I didn't take
any voltage measurements since there were very few on the print. But I
did verify the plate and the 15vdc and whatever else was in the drive
stage per the print.

The drive scheme is also odd. With +15v on the grids, the cathodes must be
up at what ? +50v maybe ? Can't remember what the typical bias level for a
6L6 in AB is, but around -35v I would guess ? So why use a low Z cathode
drive, I wonder ? Seems a complicated way of going about what is a
fundamentally a straightforward task, when tackled textbook, like in a Vox
or Fender or Marshall, or just about any other two or four tube tetrode /
pentode output stage. I can quite see how a failed or leaky transistor
such
as you had, would lead to a massive shift in the bias in totally the wrong
(well, undesirable, anyway) direction, driving a tube pair to full
saturation. That alone makes it a questionable design to me, but I'm sure
we
must be missing some clever bit of design philosophy here.

The philosophy is to lightly fuse the B+ :) I suppose the design has
something to do with the fact that the low power setting drops just
the plates to 262vdc so anything besides linear or cathode biasing
wouldn't track the drop from 525 to 262 unlike placing a variac at the
mains where everything drops.

Anyone else got any thoughts or insights into the reasoning behind this
odd
design ?

Arfa


Yep I'd like to be educated on this desing too. Don't like repairing
things that I haven't a clue as to the operation.
I can see how they might be using that sort of drive arrangement to ensure
that the bias remains correctly tracked for the reduction in plate voltage,
but it seems a complicated way to go about it. I'm sure that you could have
a negative grid bias arrangement which tracked the B+, implemented in a
simpler way than this.

Arfa
 

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