Rigol scope LCD problem

DS5102C, color LCD scope. When turned on, the leftmost quarter has
vertical stripes, the affected column is dead.

It looks like specific sub-pixels are not responding. R in one row is
dead, then G a few rows down, then B, repeat 10 times.

http://img593.imageshack.us/i/rigollcdscreen.jpg/

Thing is, after a few hour warm up, it works normally.

What is the most likely suspect before I go in and strip it down? Is
it likely to be simply a bad harness somewhere that needs reseating?
Or do I need to take apart the panel and fiddle arround with something
more arcane?

I don't think there's zebra strips in these things these days.

 

[N_Cook]

<a7yvm109gf5d1@netzero.com> wrote in message
news:9e7527b4-b0af-4d2b-974a-cd7794accb9a@y26g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...

DS5102C, color LCD scope. When turned on, the leftmost quarter has
vertical stripes, the affected column is dead.

It looks like specific sub-pixels are not responding. R in one row is
dead, then G a few rows down, then B, repeat 10 times.

http://img593.imageshack.us/i/rigollcdscreen.jpg/

Thing is, after a few hour warm up, it works normally.

What is the most likely suspect before I go in and strip it down? Is
it likely to be simply a bad harness somewhere that needs reseating?
Or do I need to take apart the panel and fiddle arround with something
more arcane?

I don't think there's zebra strips in these things these days.

I would get inside and lightly probe with fingers, either final bond to the
LCD failed somewhere or solder problem on a demultiplexer chip. If bond
failure , do not try debonding and rebonding . That plastic reticulated
foam, pan scourer, pressed against the suspect area and padded/braced
against something is about all you can expect to remedy, unlikely to be
zebra strip.

 

[Jamie]

a7yvm109gf5d1@netzero.com wrote:

DS5102C, color LCD scope. When turned on, the leftmost quarter has
vertical stripes, the affected column is dead.

It looks like specific sub-pixels are not responding. R in one row is
dead, then G a few rows down, then B, repeat 10 times.

http://img593.imageshack.us/i/rigollcdscreen.jpg/

Thing is, after a few hour warm up, it works normally.

What is the most likely suspect before I go in and strip it down? Is
it likely to be simply a bad harness somewhere that needs reseating?
Or do I need to take apart the panel and fiddle arround with something
more arcane?

I don't think there's zebra strips in these things these days.
I wouldn't put it past them to have zebra strips in there how ever,

since they can't use leaded solder any more in production items it's
very possible you have a solder joint issue in the screen itself or it
could be the header on your board.

Use circuit cooler on suspected areas after warm up to recreate the
problem.

Jamie

 

On Apr 11, 2:41 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

a7yvm109gf...@netzero.com> wrote in message

news:9e7527b4-b0af-4d2b-974a-cd7794accb9a@y26g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...



DS5102C, color LCD scope. When turned on, the leftmost quarter has
vertical stripes, the affected column is dead.

It looks like specific sub-pixels are not responding. R in one row is
dead, then G a few rows down, then B, repeat 10 times.

http://img593.imageshack.us/i/rigollcdscreen.jpg/

Thing is, after a few hour warm up, it works normally.

What is the most likely suspect before I go in and strip it down? Is
it likely to be simply a bad harness somewhere that needs reseating?
Or do I need to take apart the panel and fiddle arround with something
more arcane?

I don't think there's zebra strips in these things these days.

I would get inside and lightly probe with fingers, either final bond to the
LCD failed somewhere or solder problem on a demultiplexer chip. If bond
failure , do not try debonding and rebonding . That plastic reticulated
foam, pan scourer, pressed against the suspect area and padded/braced
against something is about all you can expect to remedy, unlikely to be
zebra strip.

Thanks, I haven't taken it apart yet but I think it's just a PS, a
mainboard and the front panel with the LCD, BNCs and buttons.
I'm hoping a simple reseating will fix it.
Thanks for the tips.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Mon, 11 Apr 2011 17:42:27 -0400, Jamie
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:

Use circuit cooler on suspected areas after warm up to recreate the
problem.

Good idea, but keep the cooler spray away from the CCFL lamp(s). I
sprayed one while it was running and instantly cracked the tube. I
don't know if this is a one-time problem, or is typical, but it might
pay to be careful. Maybe a hot air gun (on low heat) when the panel
is cool, or just massaging the circuitry looking for intermittents,
might be equally productive.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

 

[Jim Yanik]

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in
news:i8j7q6dd45ut6ro2cu2e84jef5edus4m5k@4ax.com:

On Mon, 11 Apr 2011 17:42:27 -0400, Jamie
jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:

Use circuit cooler on suspected areas after warm up to recreate the
problem.

Good idea, but keep the cooler spray away from the CCFL lamp(s). I
sprayed one while it was running and instantly cracked the tube. I
don't know if this is a one-time problem, or is typical, but it might
pay to be careful. Maybe a hot air gun (on low heat) when the panel
is cool, or just massaging the circuitry looking for intermittents,
might be equally productive.

I used to spray the cooler on a Q-tip swab and apply the swab to a
suspect component I wanted to chill.

or you could rig some short of paper shield to keep the spray away from
other parts.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com