Rickenbacker RM112P monitor amp intermittnet popping and cra

[David Farber]

This Rickenbacker RM112P monitor amp came to me with the complaint that it
randomly crackles and pops. I plugged it in this afternoon and of course it
didn't make any pops or crackles. I disassembled it and cleaned the
controls. They were only slightly noisy. I was unable to locate a schematic
for it. If it does decide to break down and make the noises, I would like to
be able trace the signal. Does anyone have a link for a schematic? It's very
clean inside. There are a few potential problem places that I see. One is
that there is double sided sticky tape holding the filter capacitors in
place. The p.c. trace is not insulated and I was wondering if that could be
causing a problem. Secondly, there seems to be some type of chemical
reaction happening leaving a flakey orange substance where some of the
components are connected to the circuit board.

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Flakey-terminals.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Filter-caps.jpg

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

 

[N_Cook]

On 06/11/2017 06:00, David Farber wrote:

This Rickenbacker RM112P monitor amp came to me with the complaint that it
randomly crackles and pops. I plugged it in this afternoon and of course it
didn't make any pops or crackles. I disassembled it and cleaned the
controls. They were only slightly noisy. I was unable to locate a schematic
for it. If it does decide to break down and make the noises, I would like to
be able trace the signal. Does anyone have a link for a schematic? It's very
clean inside. There are a few potential problem places that I see. One is
that there is double sided sticky tape holding the filter capacitors in
place. The p.c. trace is not insulated and I was wondering if that could be
causing a problem. Secondly, there seems to be some type of chemical
reaction happening leaving a flakey orange substance where some of the
components are connected to the circuit board.

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Flakey-terminals.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Filter-caps.jpg

Thanks for your reply.

What date?
Assuming >2006 then first diagnostic procedure is to waft a bird feather
around the components while powered up, if you've not been manually
touching things inside.

 

[pfjw@aol.com]

I would suggest you re-solder those two resistors - making sure that the leads have not corroded to any degree. Ideally, replace them and clean the solder traces. I use an electric eraser for this purpose.

https://www.artsuppliesonline.com/prodimg/6150.jpg

With a very soft insert. Wonderful devices that do not 'pull' traces or leave conductive scarf.

I expect your problem is thermal - and due to vibrations when hot. So, get the thing going, and using a wooden stick - something like a drumstick, tap the various components and see where you get a reaction. Clean that up, and you will be fine.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

On Monday, 6 November 2017 06:02:48 UTC, David Farber wrote:

This Rickenbacker RM112P monitor amp came to me with the complaint that it
randomly crackles and pops. I plugged it in this afternoon and of course it
didn't make any pops or crackles. I disassembled it and cleaned the
controls. They were only slightly noisy. I was unable to locate a schematic
for it. If it does decide to break down and make the noises, I would like to
be able trace the signal. Does anyone have a link for a schematic? It's very
clean inside. There are a few potential problem places that I see. One is
that there is double sided sticky tape holding the filter capacitors in
place. The p.c. trace is not insulated and I was wondering if that could be
causing a problem. Secondly, there seems to be some type of chemical
reaction happening leaving a flakey orange substance where some of the
components are connected to the circuit board.

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Flakey-terminals.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Filter-caps.jpg

Thanks for your reply.

Poor connection. Tap around gently with an insulating stick to locate it.


NT

 

[Wond]

On Sun, 05 Nov 2017 22:00:52 -0800, David Farber wrote:

This Rickenbacker RM112P monitor amp came to me with the complaint that
it randomly crackles and pops. I plugged it in this afternoon and of
course it didn't make any pops or crackles. I disassembled it and
cleaned the controls. They were only slightly noisy. I was unable to
locate a schematic for it. If it does decide to break down and make the
noises, I would like to be able trace the signal. Does anyone have a
link for a schematic? It's very clean inside. There are a few potential
problem places that I see. One is that there is double sided sticky tape
holding the filter capacitors in place. The p.c. trace is not insulated
and I was wondering if that could be causing a problem. Secondly, there
seems to be some type of chemical reaction happening leaving a flakey
orange substance where some of the components are connected to the
circuit board.

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Flakey-terminals.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Filter-caps.jpg

Thanks for your reply.

Looks like the filter cap lead in the middle of the pic may not be
soldered properly!

 

[David Farber]

N_Cook wrote:

On 06/11/2017 06:00, David Farber wrote:
This Rickenbacker RM112P monitor amp came to me with the complaint
that it randomly crackles and pops. I plugged it in this afternoon
and of course it didn't make any pops or crackles. I disassembled it
and cleaned the controls. They were only slightly noisy. I was
unable to locate a schematic for it. If it does decide to break down
and make the noises, I would like to be able trace the signal. Does
anyone have a link for a schematic? It's very clean inside. There
are a few potential problem places that I see. One is that there is
double sided sticky tape holding the filter capacitors in place. The
p.c. trace is not insulated and I was wondering if that could be
causing a problem. Secondly, there seems to be some type of chemical
reaction happening leaving a flakey orange substance where some of
the components are connected to the circuit board.
http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Flakey-terminals.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Filter-caps.jpg

Thanks for your reply.


What date?
Assuming >2006 then first diagnostic procedure is to waft a bird
feather around the components while powered up, if you've not been
manually touching things inside.

There is no date that I could find on the unit. I called the Rickenbacker
company in Santa Ana, CA, and was told they don't have schematics for the
older amplifiers. They couldn't even tell me the manufacturing date of the
amplifer when providing them the model number. My educated guess is that
it's from the1990's or older.

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

 

[Phil Allison]

David Farber wrote:

------------------------

This Rickenbacker RM112P monitor amp came to me with the complaint that it
randomly crackles and pops. I plugged it in this afternoon and of course it
didn't make any pops or crackles. I disassembled it and cleaned the
controls. They were only slightly noisy. I was unable to locate a schematic
for it. If it does decide to break down and make the noises, I would like to
be able trace the signal. Does anyone have a link for a schematic? It's very
clean inside. There are a few potential problem places that I see. One is
that there is double sided sticky tape holding the filter capacitors in
place. The p.c. trace is not insulated and I was wondering if that could be
causing a problem. Secondly, there seems to be some type of chemical
reaction happening leaving a flakey orange substance where some of the
components are connected to the circuit board.

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Flakey-terminals.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Filter-caps.jpg

Thanks for your reply.

** Good servicing practice requires that you FIRST observe a fault before delving inside to find the cause.

Consider that the unit may have no fault at all, the reported noises being fed in from an external device and / or are due to AC supply transients.


..... Phil

 

[David Farber]

Phil Allison wrote:

David Farber wrote:

------------------------

This Rickenbacker RM112P monitor amp came to me with the complaint
that it randomly crackles and pops. I plugged it in this afternoon
and of course it didn't make any pops or crackles. I disassembled it
and cleaned the controls. They were only slightly noisy. I was
unable to locate a schematic for it. If it does decide to break down
and make the noises, I would like to be able trace the signal. Does
anyone have a link for a schematic? It's very clean inside. There
are a few potential problem places that I see. One is that there is
double sided sticky tape holding the filter capacitors in place. The
p.c. trace is not insulated and I was wondering if that could be
causing a problem. Secondly, there seems to be some type of chemical
reaction happening leaving a flakey orange substance where some of
the components are connected to the circuit board.

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Flakey-terminals.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Filter-caps.jpg

Thanks for your reply.


** Good servicing practice requires that you FIRST observe a fault
before delving inside to find the cause.

Consider that the unit may have no fault at all, the reported noises
being fed in from an external device and / or are due to AC supply
transients.


.... Phil

Hi Phil,

I would agree with you up until the point where after several days of
waiting, and no faults are exhibited, then a peek inside the unit might give
you a clue. Maybe something spilled inside, or perhaps another tech might
have done some creative repairs. I haven't mentioned until now but I did
find this (photo links below) sitting in the wide open space below the
speaker inside of the amp box. I don't think it belongs inside the amp. But
even if it's loose inside, I still don't think it would cause popping and
crackling noises. Can you identify what it is? It looks to me like it is
from a wall attachment for a telephone.

View 1
http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Mystery-object-a.jpg

View 2
http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Mystery-object-b.jpg

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

 

[Phil Allison]

David Farber wrote:

-------------------

** Good servicing practice requires that you FIRST observe a fault
before delving inside to find the cause.

Consider that the unit may have no fault at all, the reported noises
being fed in from an external device and / or are due to AC supply
transients.


.... Phil


I would agree with you up until the point where after several days of
waiting, and no faults are exhibited, then a peek inside the unit might give
you a clue. Maybe something spilled inside, or perhaps another tech might
have done some creative repairs.

** The flaw with that idea is that you will very often find something odd looking and wrongly assume it must be the cause of the reported fault - when it is not.

False alarm reports are VERY common with guitar amps and accessories plus also with disco equipment and PA gear.

If after a reasonable time running and testing a unit, it shows no sign of the reported fault then it becomes the owner's problem to DEMONSTRATE the fault to the repairer.





..... Phil

 

[pfjw@aol.com]

On Wednesday, November 8, 2017 at 7:45:11 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:

David Farber wrote:

-------------------


** Good servicing practice requires that you FIRST observe a fault
before delving inside to find the cause.

Consider that the unit may have no fault at all, the reported noises
being fed in from an external device and / or are due to AC supply
transients.


.... Phil


I would agree with you up until the point where after several days of
waiting, and no faults are exhibited, then a peek inside the unit might give
you a clue. Maybe something spilled inside, or perhaps another tech might
have done some creative repairs.


** The flaw with that idea is that you will very often find something odd looking and wrongly assume it must be the cause of the reported fault - when it is not.

False alarm reports are VERY common with guitar amps and accessories plus also with disco equipment and PA gear.

If after a reasonable time running and testing a unit, it shows no sign of the reported fault then it becomes the owner's problem to DEMONSTRATE the fault to the repairer.





.... Phil

The difference is: An amp in service is loaded, unloaded, lifted, carried, vibrated, kicked, and otherwise physically abused.

An amp in the shop sits quietly on a bench or on a shelf with nothing to disturb it.

A customer who puts equipment into the hands of a tech - and is thereby spending money has no reason to create a false (and possibly costly) alarm. An Honest Tech is obligated to take the customer at their word. Hence the advice to check for visible defects, to tap the parts with a diddle-stick or similar - in other words, go looking for trouble. Further, and Honest Tech who has been around a while will kinda-sorta have a good idea where to start based on historical experience. And an Honest Tech, when confronted with obvious 'not right' things will correct them - within the minimum charge limit at the very least.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

[David Farber]

pfjw@aol.com wrote:

On Wednesday, November 8, 2017 at 7:45:11 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison
wrote:
David Farber wrote:

-------------------


** Good servicing practice requires that you FIRST observe a fault
before delving inside to find the cause.

Consider that the unit may have no fault at all, the reported
noises being fed in from an external device and / or are due to AC
supply transients.


.... Phil


I would agree with you up until the point where after several days
of waiting, and no faults are exhibited, then a peek inside the
unit might give you a clue. Maybe something spilled inside, or
perhaps another tech might have done some creative repairs.


** The flaw with that idea is that you will very often find
something odd looking and wrongly assume it must be the cause of the
reported fault - when it is not.

False alarm reports are VERY common with guitar amps and accessories
plus also with disco equipment and PA gear.

If after a reasonable time running and testing a unit, it shows no
sign of the reported fault then it becomes the owner's problem to
DEMONSTRATE the fault to the repairer.





.... Phil

The difference is: An amp in service is loaded, unloaded, lifted,
carried, vibrated, kicked, and otherwise physically abused.

An amp in the shop sits quietly on a bench or on a shelf with nothing
to disturb it.

A customer who puts equipment into the hands of a tech - and is
thereby spending money has no reason to create a false (and possibly
costly) alarm. An Honest Tech is obligated to take the customer at
their word. Hence the advice to check for visible defects, to tap the
parts with a diddle-stick or similar - in other words, go looking for
trouble. Further, and Honest Tech who has been around a while will
kinda-sorta have a good idea where to start based on historical
experience. And an Honest Tech, when confronted with obvious 'not
right' things will correct them - within the minimum charge limit at
the very least.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Hi Peter,

I am doing this as charity work for a local Jazz group. I occasionally play
with the group at their Vets' Hall in Pismo Beach, CA. http://pismojazz.com/
I know the people there very well and the person that gave me the amp to fix
told me how it failed during a concert last month. As was previously stated,
the problem could be external to the amp. When I continue testing it today,
I'll include lots of tapping and prodding to see if anything unusual occurs.

By the way, are you able to identify this "extra" part that I found inside
the box?

View 1
http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Mystery-object-a.jpg

View 2
http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Mystery-object-b.jpg

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

 

On Thursday, November 9, 2017 at 3:19:06 PM UTC-5, David Farber wrote:

pfjw@aol.com wrote:
On Wednesday, November 8, 2017 at 7:45:11 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison
wrote:
David Farber wrote:

-------------------


** Good servicing practice requires that you FIRST observe a fault
before delving inside to find the cause.

Consider that the unit may have no fault at all, the reported
noises being fed in from an external device and / or are due to AC
supply transients.


.... Phil


I would agree with you up until the point where after several days
of waiting, and no faults are exhibited, then a peek inside the
unit might give you a clue. Maybe something spilled inside, or
perhaps another tech might have done some creative repairs.


** The flaw with that idea is that you will very often find
something odd looking and wrongly assume it must be the cause of the
reported fault - when it is not.

False alarm reports are VERY common with guitar amps and accessories
plus also with disco equipment and PA gear.

If after a reasonable time running and testing a unit, it shows no
sign of the reported fault then it becomes the owner's problem to
DEMONSTRATE the fault to the repairer.





.... Phil

The difference is: An amp in service is loaded, unloaded, lifted,
carried, vibrated, kicked, and otherwise physically abused.

An amp in the shop sits quietly on a bench or on a shelf with nothing
to disturb it.

A customer who puts equipment into the hands of a tech - and is
thereby spending money has no reason to create a false (and possibly
costly) alarm. An Honest Tech is obligated to take the customer at
their word. Hence the advice to check for visible defects, to tap the
parts with a diddle-stick or similar - in other words, go looking for
trouble. Further, and Honest Tech who has been around a while will
kinda-sorta have a good idea where to start based on historical
experience. And an Honest Tech, when confronted with obvious 'not
right' things will correct them - within the minimum charge limit at
the very least.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Hi Peter,

I am doing this as charity work for a local Jazz group. I occasionally play
with the group at their Vets' Hall in Pismo Beach, CA. http://pismojazz.com/
I know the people there very well and the person that gave me the amp to fix
told me how it failed during a concert last month. As was previously stated,
the problem could be external to the amp. When I continue testing it today,
I'll include lots of tapping and prodding to see if anything unusual occurs.

By the way, are you able to identify this "extra" part that I found inside
the box?

View 1
http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Mystery-object-a.jpg

View 2
http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Mystery-object-b.jpg

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

Make sure that you clean the 1/4 inch jacks as well. I have seen poor connections here cause noise.

Dan

 

[pfjw@aol.com]

On Thursday, November 9, 2017 at 3:19:06 PM UTC-5, David Farber wrote:

I am doing this as charity work for a local Jazz group. I occasionally play
with the group at their Vets' Hall in Pismo Beach, CA. http://pismojazz.com/
I know the people there very well and the person that gave me the amp to fix
told me how it failed during a concert last month. As was previously stated,
the problem could be external to the amp. When I continue testing it today,
I'll include lots of tapping and prodding to see if anything unusual occurs.

By the way, are you able to identify this "extra" part that I found inside
the box?

View 1
http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Mystery-object-a.jpg

View 2
http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Mystery-object-b.jpg

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

Short answer, no I have no clue. Much longer answer: I just installed half-a-dozen sharps containers in one of our practices, and if that device were 14" across and about 8" deep, it would bear an uncanny resemblance to the baseplate. That mounts to a wall or counter, and the container snaps into it and may be locked in place with a key. A tool is used to depress the cam (black sprung device) to remove the container.

Every so often, they let me out of the office and into the field to troubleshoot everything from tattoo-removal lasers to electronic door locks. Those things requiring certifications (lasers and surgical or treatment devices, cryostats and such) I will diagnose so that the certified repair technician has a starting point, usually with that tech on the phone. Those that do not, I will repair and test. So, rather than calling an outside carpenter, I installed the sharps containers as I was in the area. New Jersey, Texas, Oregon, Virginia, North Carolina, Georgia - it does get me around. But the resemblance is very close.

 

[Gareth Magennis]

wrote in message
news:1995a61e-77a6-4248-880f-99ce460554f9@googlegroups.com...

On Wednesday, November 8, 2017 at 7:45:11 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:

David Farber wrote:

-------------------


** Good servicing practice requires that you FIRST observe a fault
before delving inside to find the cause.

Consider that the unit may have no fault at all, the reported noises
being fed in from an external device and / or are due to AC supply
transients.


.... Phil


I would agree with you up until the point where after several days of
waiting, and no faults are exhibited, then a peek inside the unit might
give
you a clue. Maybe something spilled inside, or perhaps another tech
might
have done some creative repairs.


** The flaw with that idea is that you will very often find something odd
looking and wrongly assume it must be the cause of the reported fault -
when it is not.

False alarm reports are VERY common with guitar amps and accessories plus
also with disco equipment and PA gear.

If after a reasonable time running and testing a unit, it shows no sign of
the reported fault then it becomes the owner's problem to DEMONSTRATE the
fault to the repairer.





.... Phil

The difference is: An amp in service is loaded, unloaded, lifted, carried,
vibrated, kicked, and otherwise physically abused.

An amp in the shop sits quietly on a bench or on a shelf with nothing to
disturb it.

A customer who puts equipment into the hands of a tech - and is thereby
spending money has no reason to create a false (and possibly costly) alarm.
An Honest Tech is obligated to take the customer at their word. Hence the
advice to check for visible defects, to tap the parts with a diddle-stick or
similar - in other words, go looking for trouble. Further, and Honest Tech
who has been around a while will kinda-sorta have a good idea where to start
based on historical experience. And an Honest Tech, when confronted with
obvious 'not right' things will correct them - within the minimum charge
limit at the very least.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


*************************************************************************************************************



It is not uncommon for customers to be fooled into thinking a piece of
equipment is faulty when it is not.
It is often not within their skillset to be able to reliably diagnose these
things, and they jump to erroneous conclusions.
You cannot always rely on their evidence, you often have to rely on your
past experiences as a professional instead.

If a customer brings me an amp with allegedly intermittent problems, it does
not sit quietly on my bench while I wait a day for it to go wrong.
I will poke and bang the fuck out of it to try and make it exhibit some
crackling or other such noise.
If it doesn't, then I will begin to suspect the fault is elsewhere.


Very often intermittent problems are down to switched jack sockets having
dirty contacts.
FX returns, Inserts, headphone sockets that cut the speaker, are prime and
very, very common suspects to be checked first.



Gareth.

 

[David Farber]

Gareth Magennis wrote:

wrote in message
news:1995a61e-77a6-4248-880f-99ce460554f9@googlegroups.com...

On Wednesday, November 8, 2017 at 7:45:11 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison
wrote:
David Farber wrote:

-------------------


** Good servicing practice requires that you FIRST observe a fault
before delving inside to find the cause.

Consider that the unit may have no fault at all, the reported
noises being fed in from an external device and / or are due to AC
supply transients.


.... Phil


I would agree with you up until the point where after several days
of waiting, and no faults are exhibited, then a peek inside the
unit might give
you a clue. Maybe something spilled inside, or perhaps another tech
might
have done some creative repairs.


** The flaw with that idea is that you will very often find
something odd looking and wrongly assume it must be the cause of the
reported fault - when it is not.

False alarm reports are VERY common with guitar amps and accessories
plus also with disco equipment and PA gear.

If after a reasonable time running and testing a unit, it shows no
sign of the reported fault then it becomes the owner's problem to
DEMONSTRATE the fault to the repairer.





.... Phil

The difference is: An amp in service is loaded, unloaded, lifted,
carried, vibrated, kicked, and otherwise physically abused.

An amp in the shop sits quietly on a bench or on a shelf with nothing
to disturb it.

A customer who puts equipment into the hands of a tech - and is
thereby spending money has no reason to create a false (and possibly
costly) alarm. An Honest Tech is obligated to take the customer at
their word. Hence the advice to check for visible defects, to tap the
parts with a diddle-stick or similar - in other words, go looking for
trouble. Further, and Honest Tech who has been around a while will
kinda-sorta have a good idea where to start based on historical
experience. And an Honest Tech, when confronted with obvious 'not
right' things will correct them - within the minimum charge limit at
the very least.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


*************************************************************************************************************



It is not uncommon for customers to be fooled into thinking a piece of
equipment is faulty when it is not.
It is often not within their skillset to be able to reliably diagnose
these things, and they jump to erroneous conclusions.
You cannot always rely on their evidence, you often have to rely on
your past experiences as a professional instead.

If a customer brings me an amp with allegedly intermittent problems,
it does not sit quietly on my bench while I wait a day for it to go
wrong. I will poke and bang the fuck out of it to try and make it exhibit
some crackling or other such noise.
If it doesn't, then I will begin to suspect the fault is elsewhere.


Very often intermittent problems are down to switched jack sockets
having dirty contacts.
FX returns, Inserts, headphone sockets that cut the speaker, are
prime and very, very common suspects to be checked first.



Gareth.

Hi Gareth,

I will give those jacks a good cleaning along with the other things you
mentioned.

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

 

[Phil Allison]

peter fuckwit puked:

--------------------

** Good servicing practice requires that you FIRST observe a fault
before delving inside to find the cause.

Consider that the unit may have no fault at all, the reported noises
being fed in from an external device and / or are due to AC supply
transients.


.... Phil


I would agree with you up until the point where after several days of
waiting, and no faults are exhibited, then a peek inside the unit might give
you a clue. Maybe something spilled inside, or perhaps another tech might
have done some creative repairs.


** The flaw with that idea is that you will very often find something odd looking and wrongly assume it must be the cause of the reported fault - when it is not.

False alarm reports are VERY common with guitar amps and accessories plus also with disco equipment and PA gear.

If after a reasonable time running and testing a unit, it shows no sign of the reported fault then it becomes the owner's problem to DEMONSTRATE the fault to the repairer.


.... Phil


The difference is: An amp in service is loaded, unloaded, lifted, carried, vibrated, kicked, and otherwise physically abused.

An amp in the shop sits quietly on a bench or on a shelf with nothing to
disturb it.

** Not in my shop it don't !!!

A customer who puts equipment into the hands of a tech - and is thereby
spending money has no reason to create a false (and possibly costly) alarm.

** Irrelevant garbage.

An Honest Tech is obligated to take the customer at their word.

** Only a stupid tech believes that garbage.

Hence the advice to check for visible defects, to tap the parts with
a diddle-stick or similar - in other words, go looking for trouble.

** In my shop, "testing" involves a full range of operation and performance checks - including some rough treatment plus tapping on PCBs and tubes while running at full power and idle.

The OP here has a simple SS monitor amp with a vague complaint of pops and crackles that will not show.

My advice was 100% solid and professionl.

As bloody usual yours is the opposite.




..... Phil

 

[pfjw@aol.com]

On Thursday, November 9, 2017 at 9:04:06 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:

My advice was 100% solid and professionl.

As bloody usual yours is the opposite.

Sure, you walk on water.

Get your meds adjusted.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA