Replacing NiCd batteries in an obsolete Uniden UH-052XR radi

[c14]

This is the one, http://www.atrc.com.au/uh050xr.htm
Although it's 10 years old it works OK and is built like a tank which is why I
would like to replace the long expired detachable NiCad battery pack which is no
longer available as a spare part (model BP-052).

The problem is that the battery pack is also built like a tank and there is no
obvious way of pulling it apart. There are no screws, glue or weld lines.
Has anyone tried surgery on one of these? There's no heavy or light end so I
don't know where to start.

The original battery spec was 7.2v, 950mAh.
There's a captive attachment screw that runs through the middle of the pack from
bottom to top slightly offset to one side, so I'm assuming that it fits in the
gap between 4 of the 6 (?) batteries arranged vertically inside.

Mike

 

[Phil Allison]

"c14" <c14@c14

Although it's 10 years old it works OK and is built like a tank which is
why I
would like to replace the long expired detachable NiCad battery pack which
is no
longer available as a spare part (model BP-052).

The problem is that the battery pack is also built like a tank and there
is no
obvious way of pulling it apart. There are no screws, glue or weld lines.
Has anyone tried surgery on one of these? There's no heavy or light end so
I
don't know where to start.

The original battery spec was 7.2v, 950mAh.

** Means there are 6 AA " high capacity" cells inside.

WES may have some Sanyo KR900 cells available - but they will be old stock.

Replacement with NiMHs is the way to go - capacity will then be 2000mAh or
more - check the old cells for height, it may be critical to get
replacements that are no taller.

There's a captive attachment screw that runs through the middle of the
pack from
bottom to top slightly offset to one side, so I'm assuming that it fits in
the
gap between 4 of the 6 (?) batteries arranged vertically inside.

** Cut the damn thing open round the middle - use a hack saw if necessary.
Bind it back together with some 3M Strapping Tape - like normal tape but
thicker and with fibreglass strands.



.... Phil

 

[Barry OGrady]

On Sun, 25 Dec 2011 12:15:23 +0800, c14 <c14@c14> wrote:

This is the one, http://www.atrc.com.au/uh050xr.htm
Although it's 10 years old it works OK and is built like a tank which is why I
would like to replace the long expired detachable NiCad battery pack which is no
longer available as a spare part (model BP-052).

The problem is that the battery pack is also built like a tank and there is no
obvious way of pulling it apart. There are no screws, glue or weld lines.
Has anyone tried surgery on one of these? There's no heavy or light end so I
don't know where to start.

The original battery spec was 7.2v, 950mAh.
There's a captive attachment screw that runs through the middle of the pack from
bottom to top slightly offset to one side, so I'm assuming that it fits in the
gap between 4 of the 6 (?) batteries arranged vertically inside.

There may be a battery place near you that can repack it.

Mike

==========

 

[Ian Field]

"c14" <c14@c14> wrote in message
news:i76df7hhqblen41a4tltqitigq2l1bv0cr@4ax.com...

This is the one, http://www.atrc.com.au/uh050xr.htm
Although it's 10 years old it works OK and is built like a tank which is
why I
would like to replace the long expired detachable NiCad battery pack which
is no
longer available as a spare part (model BP-052).

The problem is that the battery pack is also built like a tank and there
is no
obvious way of pulling it apart. There are no screws, glue or weld lines.
Has anyone tried surgery on one of these? There's no heavy or light end so
I
don't know where to start.

The original battery spec was 7.2v, 950mAh.
There's a captive attachment screw that runs through the middle of the
pack from
bottom to top slightly offset to one side, so I'm assuming that it fits in
the
gap between 4 of the 6 (?) batteries arranged vertically inside.

Mike

If you replace with NiMh there's a couple of things to watch out for.

If its a high current draw application most older NiMh will get hot under
load - so the energy is expended heating the cells instead of powering the
device, this will be abundantly aparent when cells with twice the rated Ah
capacity only run for 1/3 as long as NiCd cells did.

Check whether the original charger has dV charge control - the dip in
terminal voltage on a NiMh cell at charge full is more subtle than on NiCd,
most automatic NiCd chargers won't detect the full charge dV point of NiMh
and so cook the cells.

 

[Phil Allison]

"Ian Field"

If you replace with NiMh there's a couple of things to watch out for.

If its a high current draw application most older NiMh

** Huh - how is the OP ever likely to install old MiNH cells ???

We know what the app is (see heading) and the drain is not high for NiMHs.

Check whether the original charger has dV charge control ...

** Almost guaranteed to be a slow ( ie 8 hour or more) charger that tapers
off as the battery voltage rises.

Probably start at about 150mA and drop to 65mA.

Perfectly OK with NiMH - as the nominal 20 hour rate with 2000mAh cells
is 100mA.



.... Phil