Repairing lifted solder pads

R

Russ

Guest
I have wanted to repair some lifted solder pads at times but the kits
that I have found sell for hundreds of dollars. I just want the glue
part and a sheet of copper. Does anyone know what kind of glue that
can be used to replace a solder pad? I think I can find a thin sheet
of copper but I am not sure of the glue that will hold up to the
heat. Any ideas for the financially challenged?
Thanks
Russ
 
In article
<1c10ba0e-8dbb-409e-a934-64c27fe859dc@u18g2000pro.googlegroups.com>,
Russ <uriahsky@hotmail.com> wrote:
I have wanted to repair some lifted solder pads at times but the kits
that I have found sell for hundreds of dollars. I just want the glue
part and a sheet of copper. Does anyone know what kind of glue that
can be used to replace a solder pad? I think I can find a thin sheet
of copper but I am not sure of the glue that will hold up to the
heat. Any ideas for the financially challenged?
Click to expand...
Can't see why you'd bother. Remove the loose pad by cutting through the
track with a sharp blade. Use some copper wire of a suitable diameter
wrapped once round the component pin and extending into the good part of
the track. Obviously you'll need to clean off any solder resist. It may
not look pretty but who cares?

--
*If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular? *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:502f80755cdave@davenoise.co.uk...
In article
1c10ba0e-8dbb-409e-a934-64c27fe859dc@u18g2000pro.googlegroups.com>,
Russ <uriahsky@hotmail.com> wrote:
I have wanted to repair some lifted solder pads at times but the kits
that I have found sell for hundreds of dollars. I just want the glue
part and a sheet of copper. Does anyone know what kind of glue that
can be used to replace a solder pad? I think I can find a thin sheet
of copper but I am not sure of the glue that will hold up to the
heat. Any ideas for the financially challenged?

Can't see why you'd bother. Remove the loose pad by cutting through the
track with a sharp blade. Use some copper wire of a suitable diameter
wrapped once round the component pin and extending into the good part of
the track. Obviously you'll need to clean off any solder resist. It may
not look pretty but who cares?

--
*If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular? *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Click to expand...

Well if you are working on small SMD stuff, I use super glue
(cyanoacrylate), and a piece of small wire to bridge the gap if the trace is
broken. Sometimes the trace is too small and I just bridge it with solder.
The problem with super glue is that the fumes it produces are like tear gas,
but it usually sticks ok. There have been many discussions about this topic
in the past. Try doing a search for it.

Mike
 
Russ <uriahsky@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1c10ba0e-8dbb-409e-a934-64c27fe859dc@u18g2000pro.googlegroups.com...
I have wanted to repair some lifted solder pads at times but the kits
that I have found sell for hundreds of dollars. I just want the glue
part and a sheet of copper. Does anyone know what kind of glue that
can be used to replace a solder pad? I think I can find a thin sheet
of copper but I am not sure of the glue that will hold up to the
heat. Any ideas for the financially challenged?
Thanks
Russ
Click to expand...

Broken pcb traces and pads, bridging pcb holes that are too small for the
component leg going throuh, so solder cracks, etc
Eventually found a hobby shop with what I was after
2 copper and 2 brass 80 mesh 5 x 6 inch sheets, bit finer than I was after
but finer is better than coarser.
Amaco of Indianapolis , Wireform Metal Mesh and Wiremesh woven Fabric.
Presumably bigger sheets of it are used by the mind control nutters.
A 2 hole paper punch makes neat 5mm pads and a needle to make a pilot hole.

If lifted pads from use of a "proper" desolder tool, try a hot air gun ( No
flaming please) try it first, explained on the tips files off below

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 
"Michael Kennedy" <mikek400@crap.comcast.net> wrote in
news:Kr-dnSgcTJb-swHUnZ2dnVY3goydnZ2d@giganews.com:

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:502f80755cdave@davenoise.co.uk...
In article
1c10ba0e-8dbb-409e-a934-64c27fe859dc@u18g2000pro.googlegroups.com>,
Russ <uriahsky@hotmail.com> wrote:
I have wanted to repair some lifted solder pads at times but the
kits that I have found sell for hundreds of dollars. I just want the
glue part and a sheet of copper. Does anyone know what kind of glue
that can be used to replace a solder pad? I think I can find a thin
sheet of copper but I am not sure of the glue that will hold up to
the heat. Any ideas for the financially challenged?

Can't see why you'd bother. Remove the loose pad by cutting through
the track with a sharp blade. Use some copper wire of a suitable
diameter wrapped once round the component pin and extending into the
good part of the track. Obviously you'll need to clean off any solder
resist. It may not look pretty but who cares?

--
*If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular? *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Well if you are working on small SMD stuff, I use super glue
(cyanoacrylate), and a piece of small wire to bridge the gap if the
trace is broken. Sometimes the trace is too small and I just bridge it
with solder. The problem with super glue is that the fumes it produces
are like tear gas, but it usually sticks ok. There have been many
discussions about this topic in the past. Try doing a search for it.

Mike
Click to expand...
I also used salvaged pads/traces from scrap PCBs,and used eyelets to hold
down the pads.you can cut off a worn hex key,chuck it in a drill,and grind
down the end to a cone for cinching the eyelets.Eyelet kits I've used had
two rods with conical tips,one fit into a metal block for holding it erect
to support the backside of the eyelet while you tapped down the topside of
the eyelet with the other tool.
Never found any useful glue that would hold up under soldering,though.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 
In article <Kr-dnSgcTJb-swHUnZ2dnVY3goydnZ2d@giganews.com>,
Michael Kennedy <mikek400@crap.comcast.net> wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:502f80755cdave@davenoise.co.uk...
In article
1c10ba0e-8dbb-409e-a934-64c27fe859dc@u18g2000pro.googlegroups.com>,
Russ <uriahsky@hotmail.com> wrote:
I have wanted to repair some lifted solder pads at times but the kits
that I have found sell for hundreds of dollars. I just want the glue
part and a sheet of copper. Does anyone know what kind of glue that
can be used to replace a solder pad? I think I can find a thin sheet
of copper but I am not sure of the glue that will hold up to the
heat. Any ideas for the financially challenged?

Can't see why you'd bother. Remove the loose pad by cutting through
the track with a sharp blade. Use some copper wire of a suitable
diameter wrapped once round the component pin and extending into the
good part of the track. Obviously you'll need to clean off any solder
resist. It may not look pretty but who cares?

Well if you are working on small SMD stuff, I use super glue
(cyanoacrylate), and a piece of small wire to bridge the gap if the
trace is broken.
Click to expand...
I sort of assumed it wouldn't be surface mount given the talk about sheets
of copper to repair it. ;-)

--
*A cubicle is just a padded cell without a door.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9BB6731D5F257jyanikkuanet@74.209.136.87...
"Michael Kennedy" <mikek400@crap.comcast.net> wrote in
news:Kr-dnSgcTJb-swHUnZ2dnVY3goydnZ2d@giganews.com:


"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:502f80755cdave@davenoise.co.uk...
In article
1c10ba0e-8dbb-409e-a934-64c27fe859dc@u18g2000pro.googlegroups.com>,
Russ <uriahsky@hotmail.com> wrote:
I have wanted to repair some lifted solder pads at times but the
kits that I have found sell for hundreds of dollars. I just want the
glue part and a sheet of copper. Does anyone know what kind of glue
that can be used to replace a solder pad? I think I can find a thin
sheet of copper but I am not sure of the glue that will hold up to
the heat. Any ideas for the financially challenged?

Can't see why you'd bother. Remove the loose pad by cutting through
the track with a sharp blade. Use some copper wire of a suitable
diameter wrapped once round the component pin and extending into the
good part of the track. Obviously you'll need to clean off any solder
resist. It may not look pretty but who cares?

--
*If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular? *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Well if you are working on small SMD stuff, I use super glue
(cyanoacrylate), and a piece of small wire to bridge the gap if the
trace is broken. Sometimes the trace is too small and I just bridge it
with solder. The problem with super glue is that the fumes it produces
are like tear gas, but it usually sticks ok. There have been many
discussions about this topic in the past. Try doing a search for it.

Mike



I also used salvaged pads/traces from scrap PCBs,and used eyelets to hold
down the pads.you can cut off a worn hex key,chuck it in a drill,and grind
down the end to a cone for cinching the eyelets.Eyelet kits I've used had
two rods with conical tips,one fit into a metal block for holding it erect
to support the backside of the eyelet while you tapped down the topside of
the eyelet with the other tool.
Never found any useful glue that would hold up under soldering,though.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
Click to expand...

Is that set small conical ended hex rod in a drill to sort of grind a
stopped hole in the pcb . Then press fit an eyelet down into this enlarged ,
cone bottomed hole as in friction fit cinching process?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in
news:gnhhk1$vp0$1@news.motzarella.org:

Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9BB6731D5F257jyanikkuanet@74.209.136.87...
I also used salvaged pads/traces from scrap PCBs,and used eyelets to
hold down the pads.you can cut off a worn hex key,chuck it in a
drill,and grind down the end to a cone for cinching the
eyelets.Eyelet kits I've used had two rods with conical tips,one fit
into a metal block for holding it erect to support the backside of
the eyelet while you tapped down the topside of the eyelet with the
other tool. Never found any useful glue that would hold up under
soldering,though.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net


Is that set small conical ended hex rod in a drill to sort of grind a
stopped hole in the pcb . Then press fit an eyelet down into this
enlarged , cone bottomed hole as in friction fit cinching process?
Click to expand...
no the conical rod/hex key is a tool to flare out the eyelet.
The drill part is to make a conical end on the hex key rod.
I chose the hex key because it's tool steel and was available,you could use
an old drill bit.

I use a drill bit to drill holes in PCBs.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 
Thanks everyone, a few more thoughts.

I sometimes can't use a a wire type repair and really need to have
that pad back so that it is anchored to the board for strength. I have
tried super glue but it didn't hold. I went to an auto store and found
the best High temp two part glue they had but it didn't work. I think
the way they repair these things is to use thin copper sheet with a
two part heat activated epoxy. Any ideas or links to the glue they
use? I am thinking Loctite might make something like this so I will
call them asap.
Thanks again
Russ

N_Cook, I am not sure about the "Amaco of Indianapolis" Is this where
you buy the thin copper? Is it a arts and crafts store?
 
Russ <uriahsky@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1c38dcac-c765-411f-8be8-28bb53caf8da@r37g2000prr.googlegroups.com...
Thanks everyone, a few more thoughts.

I sometimes can't use a a wire type repair and really need to have
that pad back so that it is anchored to the board for strength. I have
tried super glue but it didn't hold. I went to an auto store and found
the best High temp two part glue they had but it didn't work. I think
the way they repair these things is to use thin copper sheet with a
two part heat activated epoxy. Any ideas or links to the glue they
use? I am thinking Loctite might make something like this so I will
call them asap.
Thanks again
Russ

N_Cook, I am not sure about the "Amaco of Indianapolis" Is this where
you buy the thin copper? Is it a arts and crafts store?
Click to expand...

that was the product name , otherwise bought at
http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk

Anyone aware of a punch mechanism , smaller than the usual 5mm desk paper
punches ? Leather punch pliers have to be really sharp to cut this copper
mesh as its not a punch through operation.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 
Russ <uriahsky@hotmail.com> wrote in news:1c10ba0e-8dbb-409e-a934-
64c27fe859dc@u18g2000pro.googlegroups.com:

I have wanted to repair some lifted solder pads at times but the kits
that I have found sell for hundreds of dollars. I just want the glue
part and a sheet of copper. Does anyone know what kind of glue that
can be used to replace a solder pad? I think I can find a thin sheet
of copper but I am not sure of the glue that will hold up to the
heat. Any ideas for the financially challenged?
Thanks
Russ
Click to expand...
You can buy rolls of copper that has an adhesive on one side.

http://tapeinfo.com/TapeInfo/Datasheets/Permacel/673/P391.aspx


and sheets such as
http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/cf-3.html

and

http://tapeinfo.com/TapeInfo/Datasheets/Permacel/673/P391.aspx




--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap
 
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