Repairing Blackberry dropped in water - circuit board cleani

M

Mark Rejhon

Guest
Hi,

I did a lot of electronics in the high school days (even getting 99%
in Electronics class) but that was many years ago.

I've got a Blackberry 7280 (a cellphone with very good email) which
got exposed to water by being dropped in a puddle. The battery was
removed immediately (avoid short circuits) and the Blackberry was
disassembled to dry out. Reassembled after something like 24 hours.

I now need advice on circuit board cleaning.

The good news is the Blackberry pretty much works fine with one
exception (its computer is fine; I can connect to the Blackberry phone
over USB; and the screen is working fine). But the thumb keyboard is
malfunctioning. It's as if two or three keys are stuck down, or a
matrix wire is shorted. Definitely, at least the "S" key is stuck
down because I know it tries to execute a (S)earch upon turning on. I
can override it by holding down a key while booting up the blackberry
by putting the battery in (any of the leftmost 5 keys of the first
row, or the letter 'a' in the second row). That allows me to give
limited one-keypress control of the Blackberry, but then the stuck
key(s) take over.

I disassembled the Blackberry again and scrubbed as much residue I
could out of the contacts. I removed the keyboard down to the bare
contacts, used pencil eraser, used isopropyl-dipped Q-tips, used
water, cleaned the keyboard contacts. But I booted up the Blackberry
without the keyboard buttons (just the circuit board contacts where
the keys were) and the "S" key is still stuck down, so it is obviously
that the short must be somewhere much further upstream. (Just to be
sure the behaviour was the same as having the keyboard buttons on it,
I covered the "Q" contacts with a piece of metal, and was able to
simulate the "Q" keypress if I shorted it while applying power to the
Blackberry).

I spent over an hour of time using isopropyl-dipped Q-tips scrubbing
any residue I could see, including some that I saw between
surfacemount components.

Reassembled. Still no dice. Something still seems shorted somewhere.

Looks like I have to try something more drastic, such as immersing the
circuit board completely inside a circuit board cleaning liquid, in an
attempt to dissolve any residue that might be hiding underneath the
pesky BGA chips or between ultra-high-density chip pins. There gotta
be residue hiding underneath an inaccessible area.

It's a 2003-era circuit board design, highly integrated with lots of
surfacemount components and several tiny BGA-like packaged chips, as
well as others (not sure what kind of packaging, MQFP, or whatever --
I'm very rusty on my terms)

I need to now attempt to dissolve residue that may be hiding in places
such as between BGA contacts underneath chips. Will brief 1 minute
immersion & washing in 90-97% isopropyl liquid be safe? Distilled
water? Or what liquid would be the best? Or too dangerous? I can
remove the LCD screen and put the LCD screen aside.

At this moment, I'm willing to be almost sort of kamikaze on this
circuit board since my last resort is to fork out for a Blackberry
replacement ($400). So I need to do some reasonably inexpensive
last-ditch attempt, such as washing the circuit board in a recommended
liquid. Is 90-97% isopropyl fine? Or what inexpensive chemical? At
what percentage? Keep in mind, I can only use chemicals safe enough
to use in a condo and meets Canada regulations (I'll check).

Thanks,
Mark Rejhon
 
On 19 Mar 2004 09:53:39 -0800, spamguard@marky.com (Mark Rejhon) wrote:

Hi,

I did a lot of electronics in the high school days (even getting 99%
in Electronics class) but that was many years ago.

I've got a Blackberry 7280 (a cellphone with very good email) which
got exposed to water by being dropped in a puddle. The battery was
removed immediately (avoid short circuits) and the Blackberry was
disassembled to dry out. Reassembled after something like 24 hours.

I now need advice on circuit board cleaning.

The good news is the Blackberry pretty much works fine with one
exception (its computer is fine; I can connect to the Blackberry phone
over USB; and the screen is working fine). But the thumb keyboard is
malfunctioning. It's as if two or three keys are stuck down, or a
matrix wire is shorted. Definitely, at least the "S" key is stuck
down because I know it tries to execute a (S)earch upon turning on. I
can override it by holding down a key while booting up the blackberry
by putting the battery in (any of the leftmost 5 keys of the first
row, or the letter 'a' in the second row). That allows me to give
limited one-keypress control of the Blackberry, but then the stuck
key(s) take over.

I disassembled the Blackberry again and scrubbed as much residue I
could out of the contacts. I removed the keyboard down to the bare
contacts, used pencil eraser, used isopropyl-dipped Q-tips, used
water, cleaned the keyboard contacts. But I booted up the Blackberry
without the keyboard buttons (just the circuit board contacts where
the keys were) and the "S" key is still stuck down, so it is obviously
that the short must be somewhere much further upstream. (Just to be
sure the behaviour was the same as having the keyboard buttons on it,
I covered the "Q" contacts with a piece of metal, and was able to
simulate the "Q" keypress if I shorted it while applying power to the
Blackberry).

I spent over an hour of time using isopropyl-dipped Q-tips scrubbing
any residue I could see, including some that I saw between
surfacemount components.

Reassembled. Still no dice. Something still seems shorted somewhere.

Looks like I have to try something more drastic, such as immersing the
circuit board completely inside a circuit board cleaning liquid, in an
attempt to dissolve any residue that might be hiding underneath the
pesky BGA chips or between ultra-high-density chip pins. There gotta
be residue hiding underneath an inaccessible area.

It's a 2003-era circuit board design, highly integrated with lots of
surfacemount components and several tiny BGA-like packaged chips, as
well as others (not sure what kind of packaging, MQFP, or whatever --
I'm very rusty on my terms)

I need to now attempt to dissolve residue that may be hiding in places
such as between BGA contacts underneath chips. Will brief 1 minute
immersion & washing in 90-97% isopropyl liquid be safe? Distilled
water? Or what liquid would be the best? Or too dangerous? I can
remove the LCD screen and put the LCD screen aside.

At this moment, I'm willing to be almost sort of kamikaze on this
circuit board since my last resort is to fork out for a Blackberry
replacement ($400). So I need to do some reasonably inexpensive
last-ditch attempt, such as washing the circuit board in a recommended
liquid. Is 90-97% isopropyl fine? Or what inexpensive chemical? At
what percentage? Keep in mind, I can only use chemicals safe enough
to use in a condo and meets Canada regulations (I'll check).

Thanks,
Mark Rejhon
I'd suggest distilled water, then maybe an alcohol solution. Ideally in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Rinsing with the aid of a compressed air jet may also help dislodge contamination.
 
Hi,

I'm familiar with the need to remove the battery and disassemble as
immediately as possible.

Is there a chemical I can add to distilled water that reduces its
surface tension, while being non-conductive? Obviously, if I want to
clean in the gaps between pins and underneath chips, I need minimum
surface tension. I figure that I need a viscious circuit-board-safe
liquid that can wet more deeply than the original accident, to
maximize my chances of success. Some people say adding a percentage
of mineral or methylated spirit to the water, really helps in cleaning
circuit boards. What is your opinion? Was recommended to
vibrate/swish the circuit board in some recommended circuit-board-safe
liquid, in an attempt to clean those pesky areas.

The Blackberry circuit board looks in excellent condition, and I can
keep the LCD screen separate. There are no coils and transformers on
this particular board.

Recommendations?

Thanks,
Mark Rejhon



Michael <NoSpam@att.net> wrote in message news:<405C4001.B854A160@att.net>...
Mark Rejhon wrote:

Hi,

I did a lot of electronics in the high school days (even getting 99%
in Electronics class) but that was many years ago.

I've got a Blackberry 7280 (a cellphone with very good email) which
got exposed to water by being dropped in a puddle. The battery was
removed immediately (avoid short circuits) and the Blackberry was
disassembled to dry out. Reassembled after something like 24 hours.


Allowing the unit to sit for a time while wet is *not* good. Gives
contaminants time to corrode what it will, also to migrate. Immediate
disassembly and flushing is best. And don't stop the work until all of
it is done. Distilled/deionized water is good, but keep it away from
coils, transformers, and the like. Unpotted SMT (for example) can give
hiding places for contaminated liquid; flush well and use compressed air
to get every last droplet out.

You could have a dried, conductive droplet straddling two or more etched
lands. If the short lies beneath a component - likely, since liquid
likes to "wet" itself in, under, and around objects - then you could be
in for a long troubleshooting session. Been there; done that.

By the way, the most destructive "spill" I personally had to deal with
was coffee in the keyboard of a laptop. I didn't get the keyboard
opened up until about 18 hours after the spill, and by then I had a
bunch of hopelessly corroded key contacts. Putting off disassembly
until next day wound up costing me nearly $200.
 
On 22 Mar 2004 15:57:58 -0800, spamguard@marky.com (Mark Rejhon)
wrote:

Hi,

I'm familiar with the need to remove the battery and disassemble as
immediately as possible.

Is there a chemical I can add to distilled water that reduces its
surface tension, while being non-conductive?
Clean it with *denatured* alcohol. Denatured alcohol will combine
with water to form another alcohol that remains volatile and will
evaporate. Commonly used to dry artificial fishing flies. Available
in most hardware or paint stores.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

Throughout the history of this great country there have actually
been people of only two political persuasions: fighters and yellow-
bellies. WE MUST NOT LET THE LATTER PREVAIL IN THE NEXT ELECTION!
 
Clean it with *denatured* alcohol. Denatured alcohol will combine
with water to form another alcohol that remains volatile and will
evaporate. Commonly used to dry artificial fishing flies. Available
in most hardware or paint stores.
Hi,

I have heard a few recommendations of Isopropyl alcohol
(at least 90% pure versions), but have never heard of
a recommendation of denatured alcohol.

Is denatured alcohol a better circuit-board cleaning fluid
than 90%+ pure isopropyl alcohol?

Can you give me any references as to denatured alcohol's
usage in circuit board cleaning?

Thanks!
Mark Rejhon
 
On 23 Mar 2004 20:53:03 -0800, spamguard@marky.com (Mark Rejhon)
wrote:

Clean it with *denatured* alcohol. Denatured alcohol will combine
with water to form another alcohol that remains volatile and will
evaporate. Commonly used to dry artificial fishing flies. Available
in most hardware or paint stores.

Hi,

I have heard a few recommendations of Isopropyl alcohol
(at least 90% pure versions), but have never heard of
a recommendation of denatured alcohol.

Is denatured alcohol a better circuit-board cleaning fluid
than 90%+ pure isopropyl alcohol?

Can you give me any references as to denatured alcohol's
usage in circuit board cleaning?

Thanks!
Mark Rejhon
Commonly available isopropyl alcohol is likely to have some oil in it
and will leave a residue.

I don't have any denatured alcohol references, I just keep a quart
handy.

I'm not recommending a long soak... just dip and remove and let
air-dry. All the moisture will be gone, which is likely the problem.

My wife dropped her phone in a foot bath. After I got it dried out it
came right back to life.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

Throughout the history of this great country there have actually
been people of only two political persuasions: fighters and yellow-
bellies. WE MUST NOT LET THE LATTER PREVAIL IN THE NEXT ELECTION!
 
Michael <NoSpam@att.net> wrote in message news:<4061B652.69885FA@att.net>...
Yup. One "commonly available isopropyl alcohol" - found at any drug
store - is marked "rubbing alcohol", is used for rubbing a person's
body. This stuff does have some kind of oil additive. The oil helps
hand/fingers slide over skin without pulling it. Like Jim points out,
the oil will be left behind after the alcohol evaporates, and you do not
want that stuff all over your electronics. I have seen rubbing alcohol
used to clean heads of tape decks too. Also a bad idea.
Actually I'd hunt down chemist grade 90-97% isopropyl. That would
obviously have no such oil in it.

I'm really interested in how it compares to simple HomeDepot-bought
denatured alcohol.

Which of the two is better? A trip to Home Depot is probably very
easy to do, but I would want to know some references to successes with
denatured alcohol...
 
Jim Thompson <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message news:<989360po7dd3epolg7md1nrukakmecotch@4ax.com>...
I'm not recommending a long soak... just dip and remove and let
air-dry. All the moisture will be gone, which is likely the problem.
I believe I need longer immersion, since I've already Q-tip-washed the
circuit board to no effect, so a deeper clean is needed -- to get into
little nooks and crannies that couldn't be reached. Like between
balls under BGA chips, and between pins of other surface-mount chips.

At the very least, a few minutes swishing in distilled water, but I
also need something else that reduces the surface tension of water
without leaving behind conductive residue, and helps in dissolving.
One guy recommended 15 minute immersion, but we'll see. So the
liquid needs to be benign enough for such an immersion.

So far, candidate additives to distilled water include:

* isopropyl alcohol (chemist grade, not drugstore, 90% or better); or
* denatured alcohol; or
* methylated spirit

It's also recommended from a few sources that certain industrial-grade
detergents are recommended, but these would seem to be hard to find.

I'll be making the final decision this weekend based on consensus...

Mark Rejhon
 
On 24 Mar 2004 20:03:11 -0800, spamguard@marky.com (Mark Rejhon)
wrote:

Michael <NoSpam@att.net> wrote in message news:<4061B652.69885FA@att.net>...
Yup. One "commonly available isopropyl alcohol" - found at any drug
store - is marked "rubbing alcohol", is used for rubbing a person's
body. This stuff does have some kind of oil additive. The oil helps
hand/fingers slide over skin without pulling it. Like Jim points out,
the oil will be left behind after the alcohol evaporates, and you do not
want that stuff all over your electronics. I have seen rubbing alcohol
used to clean heads of tape decks too. Also a bad idea.

Actually I'd hunt down chemist grade 90-97% isopropyl. That would
obviously have no such oil in it.

I'm really interested in how it compares to simple HomeDepot-bought
denatured alcohol.

Which of the two is better? A trip to Home Depot is probably very
easy to do, but I would want to know some references to successes with
denatured alcohol...
I'm certainly no chemist (and I'll ask my daughter who is) but I
believe that denatured alcohol is simply alcohol that has had all the
bonded water molecules excised (I'm strictly winging it here from
chemistry studied more than 40 years ago... "water of hydration" ??).

Thus it has a strong affinity for water.

The best part of it is that it will bond to some water but still have
a high vapor pressure.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

Throughout the history of this great country there have actually
been people of only two political persuasions: fighters and cowards.
WE MUST NOT LET THE LATTER PREVAIL IN THE NEXT ELECTION!
 
"Mark Rejhon" <spamguard@marky.com> wrote in message
news:323f419b.0403190953.72bfa868@posting.google.com...
Hi,

I did a lot of electronics in the high school days (even getting 99%
in Electronics class) but that was many years ago.

I've got a Blackberry 7280 (a cellphone with very good email) which
got exposed to water by being dropped in a puddle. The battery was
removed immediately (avoid short circuits) and the Blackberry was
disassembled to dry out. Reassembled after something like 24 hours.

I now need advice on circuit board cleaning.

The good news is the Blackberry pretty much works fine with one
exception (its computer is fine; I can connect to the Blackberry phone
over USB; and the screen is working fine). But the thumb keyboard is
malfunctioning. It's as if two or three keys are stuck down, or a
matrix wire is shorted. Definitely, at least the "S" key is stuck
down because I know it tries to execute a (S)earch upon turning on. I
can override it by holding down a key while booting up the blackberry
by putting the battery in (any of the leftmost 5 keys of the first
row, or the letter 'a' in the second row). That allows me to give
limited one-keypress control of the Blackberry, but then the stuck
key(s) take over.

I disassembled the Blackberry again and scrubbed as much residue I
could out of the contacts. I removed the keyboard down to the bare
contacts, used pencil eraser, used isopropyl-dipped Q-tips, used
water, cleaned the keyboard contacts. But I booted up the Blackberry
without the keyboard buttons (just the circuit board contacts where
the keys were) and the "S" key is still stuck down, so it is obviously
that the short must be somewhere much further upstream. (Just to be
sure the behaviour was the same as having the keyboard buttons on it,
I covered the "Q" contacts with a piece of metal, and was able to
simulate the "Q" keypress if I shorted it while applying power to the
Blackberry).

I spent over an hour of time using isopropyl-dipped Q-tips scrubbing
any residue I could see, including some that I saw between
surfacemount components.

Reassembled. Still no dice. Something still seems shorted somewhere.

Looks like I have to try something more drastic, such as immersing the
circuit board completely inside a circuit board cleaning liquid, in an
attempt to dissolve any residue that might be hiding underneath the
pesky BGA chips or between ultra-high-density chip pins. There gotta
be residue hiding underneath an inaccessible area.

It's a 2003-era circuit board design, highly integrated with lots of
surfacemount components and several tiny BGA-like packaged chips, as
well as others (not sure what kind of packaging, MQFP, or whatever --
I'm very rusty on my terms)

I need to now attempt to dissolve residue that may be hiding in places
such as between BGA contacts underneath chips. Will brief 1 minute
immersion & washing in 90-97% isopropyl liquid be safe? Distilled
water? Or what liquid would be the best? Or too dangerous? I can
remove the LCD screen and put the LCD screen aside.

At this moment, I'm willing to be almost sort of kamikaze on this
circuit board since my last resort is to fork out for a Blackberry
replacement ($400). So I need to do some reasonably inexpensive
last-ditch attempt, such as washing the circuit board in a recommended
liquid. Is 90-97% isopropyl fine? Or what inexpensive chemical? At
what percentage? Keep in mind, I can only use chemicals safe enough
to use in a condo and meets Canada regulations (I'll check).

Thanks,
Mark Rejhon
I have used denatured alcohol to clean pc boards, it dries quickly and
leaves no residue. Don't use water as the oxygen content will bond with any
metal parts and start the rust to start forming, even if you feel it is dry.
The denatured alcohol will absurb the water molecules that is stuck to the
parts. Dip it about 10 sec and let dry overnight before re-assembly.
Good luck!
 
On Thu, 25 Mar 2004 20:51:20 -0500, "jtech" <toomuch@spam.net> wrote:

[snip]
I have used denatured alcohol to clean pc boards, it dries quickly and
leaves no residue. Don't use water as the oxygen content will bond with any
metal parts and start the rust to start forming, even if you feel it is dry.
The denatured alcohol will absurb the water molecules that is stuck to the
parts. Dip it about 10 sec and let dry overnight before re-assembly.
Good luck!
Thanks for the second to my motion! Denatured alcohol is neat stuff!

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

Throughout the history of this great country there have actually
been people of only two political persuasions: fighters and cowards.
WE MUST NOT LET THE LATTER PREVAIL IN THE NEXT ELECTION!
 
"Jim Thompson" <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message
news:v447609ih4je0qpde9q6e6ec178raqop38@4ax.com...
On Thu, 25 Mar 2004 20:51:20 -0500, "jtech" <toomuch@spam.net> wrote:

[snip]
I have used denatured alcohol to clean pc boards, it dries quickly and
leaves no residue. Don't use water as the oxygen content will bond with
any
metal parts and start the rust to start forming, even if you feel it is
dry.
The denatured alcohol will absurb the water molecules that is stuck to
the
parts. Dip it about 10 sec and let dry overnight before re-assembly.
Good luck!



Thanks for the second to my motion! Denatured alcohol is neat stuff!

...Jim Thompson
np. btw, my name is also jim thompson - James T. Thompson.
 
On Fri, 26 Mar 2004 08:22:34 -0500, "jtech" <toomuch@spam.net> wrote:

"Jim Thompson" <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message
news:v447609ih4je0qpde9q6e6ec178raqop38@4ax.com...
On Thu, 25 Mar 2004 20:51:20 -0500, "jtech" <toomuch@spam.net> wrote:

[snip]
I have used denatured alcohol to clean pc boards, it dries quickly and
leaves no residue. Don't use water as the oxygen content will bond with
any
metal parts and start the rust to start forming, even if you feel it is
dry.
The denatured alcohol will absurb the water molecules that is stuck to
the
parts. Dip it about 10 sec and let dry overnight before re-assembly.
Good luck!



Thanks for the second to my motion! Denatured alcohol is neat stuff!

...Jim Thompson
np. btw, my name is also jim thompson - James T. Thompson.
Way too many of them in the world...

My grandfather's name was James L.

His grandfather's name was just James

My father's name is James R.

My name is James E.

So I'm named my sons Aaron and Duane ;-)


...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

Throughout the history of this great country there have actually
been people of only two political persuasions: fighters and cowards.
WE MUST NOT LET THE LATTER PREVAIL IN THE NEXT ELECTION!
 
Jim Thompson wrote:

Clean it with *denatured* alcohol. Denatured alcohol will combine
with water to form another alcohol that remains volatile and will
evaporate.
"Denatured" here means that some methanol was added to the ethanol to
make the stuff poisonous and thus unfit for consumption.

Acetone is sometimes added intead. Acetone works very well in the lab
for drying glassware, but it is too strong a solvent I guess.

Alcohol in the 96% concentration will take water with it when it evaporates.


Thomas
 
On Sat, 27 Mar 2004 11:59:23 +0100, Zak <spam@jutezak.invalid> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:

Clean it with *denatured* alcohol. Denatured alcohol will combine
with water to form another alcohol that remains volatile and will
evaporate.

"Denatured" here means that some methanol was added to the ethanol to
make the stuff poisonous and thus unfit for consumption.

Acetone is sometimes added intead. Acetone works very well in the lab
for drying glassware, but it is too strong a solvent I guess.

Alcohol in the 96% concentration will take water with it when it evaporates.


Thomas
You're confusing "denatured" in the legal (beverage) sense with a
specialty product called denatured alcohol...

======================================

Definitions:

Denatured Alcohol is ethyl alcohol, or ethanol, containing traces of
benzene. While ethanol, in it's natural form, is a source of
combustible fuel, it contains trace amounts of water making it less
efficient for burning than in it's denatured form. Introducing Benzene
during the distillation process drives out the water contained in
ethanol creating a very pure and potent fuel source - denatured
alcohol.

NOTE: Ethanol is the alcohol consumed in alcoholic beverages. However,
once denatured, ethanol becomes toxic and can cause blindness or death
if consumed.

Rubbing Alcohol is isopropanol. It has a completely different
molecular structure than ethanol and often contains up to 30% water.
Though it is flammable it is a poor choice for fuel.

======================================

The above definitions are written for Joe Average, the alcohol doesn't
"contain" water, there are instead *bonded* waters-of-hydration.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

Throughout the history of this great country there have actually
been people of only two political persuasions: fighters and cowards.
WE MUST NOT LET THE LATTER PREVAIL IN THE NEXT ELECTION!
 
On Sat, 27 Mar 2004 08:19:01 -0700, Jim Thompson
<thegreatone@example.com> wrote:


You're confusing "denatured" in the legal (beverage) sense with a
specialty product called denatured alcohol...

======================================

Definitions:

Denatured Alcohol is ethyl alcohol, or ethanol, containing traces of
benzene. While ethanol, in it's natural form, is a source of
combustible fuel, it contains trace amounts of water making it less
efficient for burning than in it's denatured form. Introducing Benzene
during the distillation process drives out the water contained in
ethanol creating a very pure and potent fuel source - denatured
alcohol.
As best as I remember, this was called something like "Absolute
ethanol" by the chemistry professor. The main point being for the
students not to steal this from the lab supply to make PJ.
 
On Sat, 27 Mar 2004 18:18:29 GMT, shb*NO*SPAM*@comporium.net (Si
Ballenger) wrote:

On Sat, 27 Mar 2004 08:19:01 -0700, Jim Thompson
thegreatone@example.com> wrote:


You're confusing "denatured" in the legal (beverage) sense with a
specialty product called denatured alcohol...

======================================

Definitions:

Denatured Alcohol is ethyl alcohol, or ethanol, containing traces of
benzene. While ethanol, in it's natural form, is a source of
combustible fuel, it contains trace amounts of water making it less
efficient for burning than in it's denatured form. Introducing Benzene
during the distillation process drives out the water contained in
ethanol creating a very pure and potent fuel source - denatured
alcohol.

As best as I remember, this was called something like "Absolute
ethanol" by the chemistry professor. The main point being for the
students not to steal this from the lab supply to make PJ.
Probably! ROFL!

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

Throughout the history of this great country there have actually
been people of only two political persuasions: fighters and cowards.
WE MUST NOT LET THE LATTER PREVAIL IN THE NEXT ELECTION!
 

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