Repaired Maytag Bravos Washer with d5 code.

[amdx]

I found my washer had stopped with a d5 code showing. A search found
this was a suds code. It was not really a suds code. I moved the washer
and could tell it still had a lot of water in it. I could hear a motor
running suspected it was the drain pump. I put the drain hose in a
bucket and found it pumping very slow, maybe a 1/2 cup per minute. I
took the back off the washer and tipped it forward. Remover the drain
hose and moved the clamp on the hose to the tub. Then I removed the
three screws holding the motor, then removed the motor. I found a wash
cloth trying to get out of the tub drain, I managed to get the wash
cloth out without to much trouble. I reassembled everything and it all
works fine again.
Well, works fine after I turned the water back on
Mikek

 

[amdx]

On 4/22/2014 11:17 AM, amdx wrote:

I found my washer had stopped with a d5 code showing. A search found
this was a suds code. It was not really a suds code. I moved the washer
and could tell it still had a lot of water in it. I could hear a motor
running suspected it was the drain pump. I put the drain hose in a
bucket and found it pumping very slow, maybe a 1/2 cup per minute. I
took the back off the washer and tipped it forward. Remover the drain
hose and moved the clamp on the hose to the tub. Then I removed the
three screws holding the motor, then removed the motor. I found a wash
cloth trying to get out of the tub drain, I managed to get the wash
cloth out without to much trouble. I reassembled everything and it all
works fine again.
Well, works fine after I turned the water back on
Mikek

And the followup;
I walked out to the washer just in time to see water spilling out on
the floor. The drain hose in the drain pipe was overflowing. Now that
the washer drains at a normal flow rate it was to much for the drain
pipe to handle in it's partially plugged condition. It is normal for
me to need to clean this drain every year or two.
This is now the time.
It is clear to me this rag has been slowing the draining of the washer
for a while.
Mikek

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Tue, 22 Apr 2014 11:17:18 -0500, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:

I managed to get the wash
cloth out without to much trouble. I reassembled everything and it all
works fine again.
Well, works fine after I turned the water back on
Mikek

Nicely done. Here's your next Maytag challenges from the "Made by
Monkey's" blog. It really should be "Designed by Monkey's".

"Small Hinge Hampers Maytag"
<http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?doc_id=265593>
I've fixed two of these so far.

"New Dishwasher Can’t Beat the Old One"
<http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?section_id=1367&doc_id=267804>

"2 Strikes & the Dishwasher’s Not Out"
<http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?section_id=1367&doc_id=264339>

"Washing Machine Can Keep the Change"
<http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?section_id=1367&doc_id=245179>
This one happend to a commercial Maytag washer in my rental. It took
me several days, and several trips to the appliance parts dealer, to
just get to the broken plastic parts. That's when I swore not to do
any more major appliance repair.

Plug "Maytag" into the search box for additional horror stories.

Incidentally, I overheard this at the parts store:
"If it's red, it's dead".
<https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=maytag+washer+red>
Is one of these yours perhaps?

Drivel: Maytag gasoline powered washing machines:
<https://www.google.com/#q=maytag%20gasoline%20powered%20washing%20machine>
<https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=maytag+gasoline+powered+washing+machine
I used to have a Maytag powered go cart when I was much younger.
Maytag stopped making them in about 1950. Bummer.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[amdx]

On 4/22/2014 1:06 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Tue, 22 Apr 2014 11:17:18 -0500, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:

I managed to get the wash
cloth out without to much trouble. I reassembled everything and it all
works fine again.
Well, works fine after I turned the water back on
Mikek

Nicely done. Here's your next Maytag challenges from the "Made by
Monkey's" blog. It really should be "Designed by Monkey's".

"Small Hinge Hampers Maytag"
http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?doc_id=265593
I've fixed two of these so far.

So this guy loosened up the door hinge, He says,
"I sanded the pins smooth and cleaned up the hinge pin holes with
phosphoric acid and a .17 rifle bore brush. I used Ospho from the
hardware store -- I use it everywhere."

What is the purpose of the Ospho?
I see it used on the boats at the marina quite regular. I understand it
has some type of a conversion on rust. Also helps paint stick to aluminum.
But why did he use it on the hinge pin holes?
Mikek

 

[David Platt]

In article <lj6ple$qvu$1@dont-email.me>, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:

So this guy loosened up the door hinge, He says,
"I sanded the pins smooth and cleaned up the hinge pin holes with
phosphoric acid and a .17 rifle bore brush. I used Ospho from the
hardware store -- I use it everywhere."

What is the purpose of the Ospho?
I see it used on the boats at the marina quite regular. I understand it
has some type of a conversion on rust. Also helps paint stick to aluminum.
But why did he use it on the hinge pin holes?

He said that the hinge metal had started to corrode where it contacted
the pins. Metal corrosion/rust can be progressive... the presence of
rust on steel (for example) can tend to promote the adjacent steel to
start rusting. If you want to stop the problem from recurring, it's
desirable to remove all of the rust. And, since the problem had
caused the pin and hinge to develop an interference problem, cleaning
all of the gunk out would be necessary to eliminate the friction and
allow the door to open and close smoothly.

The phosphoric acid reacts with the rust, converts it to an ferric
phosphate. This is more easily removed by scrubbing (e.g. with the
rifle bore brush) than the rust would have been... and if you leave a
bit on the surface of the metal it won't hurt, as it actually will
protect the metal from further rusting to some extent.

So, he used the Ospho for two reasons - it made it easier to remove
the built-up rust (easier than drilling it out) and it provided a bit
of additional protection for the metal.

I've used it to clean up old, somewhat-rusty woodworking tools
(antique spokeshaves and the like) in the same way. Soak, scrub off
the accumulated (converted) rust, wipe a bit more on the bare metal to
provide a thin surface layer of phosphate, wipe dry and air-dry
thoroughly. A thin surface coat of tung oil (which polymerizes to a
tough film) provides the final protection.

 

[amdx]

On 4/22/2014 7:37 PM, David Platt wrote:

In article <lj6ple$qvu$1@dont-email.me>, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:

So this guy loosened up the door hinge, He says,
"I sanded the pins smooth and cleaned up the hinge pin holes with
phosphoric acid and a .17 rifle bore brush. I used Ospho from the
hardware store -- I use it everywhere."

What is the purpose of the Ospho?
I see it used on the boats at the marina quite regular. I understand it
has some type of a conversion on rust. Also helps paint stick to aluminum.
But why did he use it on the hinge pin holes?

He said that the hinge metal had started to corrode where it contacted
the pins. Metal corrosion/rust can be progressive... the presence of
rust on steel (for example) can tend to promote the adjacent steel to
start rusting. If you want to stop the problem from recurring, it's
desirable to remove all of the rust. And, since the problem had
caused the pin and hinge to develop an interference problem, cleaning
all of the gunk out would be necessary to eliminate the friction and
allow the door to open and close smoothly.

The phosphoric acid reacts with the rust, converts it to an ferric
phosphate. This is more easily removed by scrubbing (e.g. with the
rifle bore brush) than the rust would have been... and if you leave a
bit on the surface of the metal it won't hurt, as it actually will
protect the metal from further rusting to some extent.

So, he used the Ospho for two reasons - it made it easier to remove
the built-up rust (easier than drilling it out) and it provided a bit
of additional protection for the metal.

I've used it to clean up old, somewhat-rusty woodworking tools
(antique spokeshaves and the like) in the same way. Soak, scrub off
the accumulated (converted) rust, wipe a bit more on the bare metal to
provide a thin surface layer of phosphate, wipe dry and air-dry
thoroughly. A thin surface coat of tung oil (which polymerizes to a
tough film) provides the final protection.

Thanks, Mikek


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[Jeff Liebermann]

On Tue, 22 Apr 2014 17:15:07 -0500, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:

On 4/22/2014 1:06 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 22 Apr 2014 11:17:18 -0500, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:

I managed to get the wash
cloth out without to much trouble. I reassembled everything and it all
works fine again.
Well, works fine after I turned the water back on
Mikek

Nicely done. Here's your next Maytag challenges from the "Made by
Monkey's" blog. It really should be "Designed by Monkey's".

"Small Hinge Hampers Maytag"
http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?doc_id=265593
I've fixed two of these so far.

So this guy loosened up the door hinge, He says,
"I sanded the pins smooth and cleaned up the hinge pin holes with
phosphoric acid and a .17 rifle bore brush. I used Ospho from the
hardware store -- I use it everywhere."

What is the purpose of the Ospho?

Converts iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate (FePO4). The iron is
non porous and blocks further oxidation. It's a great preparation for
painting anything that will rust. I have an old sheet metal shower
that's starting to rust along the bottom. I wire brushed off the
rust, applied some "rust reformer", let dry, and applied some enamel
paint. Looks like it will last.

I see it used on the boats at the marina quite regular. I understand it
has some type of a conversion on rust. Also helps paint stick to aluminum.

I'm not sure if it will do anything for aluminum except maybe etch it
a little. Aluminum is protected by a thin layer of aluminum oxide.
The best aluminum prep for painting that I've found is white vinegar.

> But why did he use it on the hinge pin holes?

Because they were corroding. The hinges were soft steel or some kind
of pot metal mix. The hinge pins were aluminum. The article says the
pins were anodized, but the one's I had to fix looked like soft
aluminum shear pins with maybe clear alodine plating. In a wet
environment, that spells electrolysis and corrosion. His plan was to
protect the steel from further corrosion with a coating of iron
phosphate, and then slop some grease into the gap. That's also
roughly what I did except that I replaced the pin with a stainless rod
with a thin nylon outer sleeve. The idea was to stop the electrolysis
by eliminating most contact between the dissimilar metals. The steel
rod was for strength and stiffness. The nylon sleeve for isolation. I
didn't need any grease.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558