Removing dried WD-40...

[Fox\'s Mercantile]

I know some think of WD-40 as the \"go to\" for everything, but
After hosing something down, 5-10 years later the volatile
solvents have evaporated leaving behind a stiff gunk.

So, my question is how do you remove it?
For example on a typewriter that some idiot hosed it down with.

--
\"I am a river to my people.\"
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

 

[Andy Burns]

Fox\'s Mercantile wrote:

> how do you remove it?

apply some more, then wipe it down?

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <n6OdnZ8XhKRca8HCnZ2dnUU7-VHNnZ2d@giganews.com>,
jdangus@att.net says...

I know some think of WD-40 as the \"go to\" for everything, but
After hosing something down, 5-10 years later the volatile
solvents have evaporated leaving behind a stiff gunk.

So, my question is how do you remove it?
For example on a typewriter that some idiot hosed it down with.

I have an old teletype machine that the previous owner did the same
thing to. It finally go so bad it would not print. I mixed up some
Ed\'s Red gun cleaner and it cleaned out all the old gunk. Then used some
good grade of oil to lubercate it.

It is kerosene (which I understand part of wd 40 is) automatic
transmission fluid, acetone, and something like varsal in equal
portions. Just Google Ed\'s Red for the mix.

 

[Phil Allison]

Fox\'s Mercantile wrote:

======================

I know some think of WD-40 as the \"go to\" for everything, but
After hosing something down, 5-10 years later the volatile
solvents have evaporated leaving behind a stiff gunk.

** Takes only an hour for the solvents to evaporate leaving behind ordinary clear mineral oil.

So, my question is how do you remove it?

** More WD of course. The petrol based solvent does the trick.

The only way I know it will wind up stuck on is if the items gets hot - like the pins of vacuum tubes - and that takes years.


> For example on a typewriter that some idiot hosed it down with.

** WD claim it \"free sticky mechanisms\" and it damn well does - like with locks exposed to the weather.

That typewriter was jamming or rusted and WD freed it up.



...... Phil

 

[Fox\'s Mercantile]

On 9/12/20 11:26 AM, Fox\'s Mercantile wrote:
> So, my question is how do you remove it?

Using a siphon sprayer, I sprayed, in sequence, mineral spirits to
cut through the WD-40 gunk. Then hosed it with Simple Green to
finish de-greasing it. Followed by Distilled water to flush out the
Simple Green and finally denatured alcohol to get rid of the water.

I\'d say it came out pretty clean.
<https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/685910956580405312/754506691353116722/unknown.png>


--
\"I am a river to my people.\"
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

 

[ohg...@gmail.com]

On Sunday, September 13, 2020 at 4:00:07 AM UTC-4, Fox\'s Mercantile wrote:

On 9/12/20 11:26 AM, Fox\'s Mercantile wrote:
So, my question is how do you remove it?
Using a siphon sprayer, I sprayed, in sequence, mineral spirits to
cut through the WD-40 gunk. Then hosed it with Simple Green to
finish de-greasing it. Followed by Distilled water to flush out the
Simple Green and finally denatured alcohol to get rid of the water.

I\'d say it came out pretty clean.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/685910956580405312/754506691353116722/unknown.png
--
\"I am a river to my people.\"
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

 

[ohg...@gmail.com]

On Sunday, September 13, 2020 at 4:00:07 AM UTC-4, Fox\'s Mercantile wrote:

On 9/12/20 11:26 AM, Fox\'s Mercantile wrote:
So, my question is how do you remove it?
Using a siphon sprayer, I sprayed, in sequence, mineral spirits to
cut through the WD-40 gunk. Then hosed it with Simple Green to
finish de-greasing it. Followed by Distilled water to flush out the
Simple Green and finally denatured alcohol to get rid of the water.

I\'d say it came out pretty clean.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/685910956580405312/754506691353116722/unknown.png
--
\"I am a river to my people.\"
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

Looks good. Will you leave it dry or lube it? If so, wet or dry?

John

 

[Fox\'s Mercantile]

On 9/13/20 8:42 AM, ohg...@gmail.com wrote:
> Looks good. Will you leave it dry or lube it? If so, wet or dry?

Oh no, it needs to lubricated.
I\'ll be using this:
<https://www.crcindustries.com/products/food-grade-machine-oil-11-wt-oz-03081.html>



--
\"I am a river to my people.\"
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

 

[pfjw@aol.com]

a) WD-40 is 100% volatile - over time. Please look at the MSDS if you have any doubts.
b) The sticky -slimy skunge left behind when it is (under) used is the old hardened lubricant that has now been evenly distributed throughout whatever was sprayed.


https://files.wd40.com/pdf/sds/mup/wd-40-multi-use-product-aerosol-low-voc-sds-us-ghs.pdf


Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 13 Sep 2020 02:59:58 -0500, Fox\'s Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>
wrote:

On 9/12/20 11:26 AM, Fox\'s Mercantile wrote:
So, my question is how do you remove it?

Using a siphon sprayer, I sprayed, in sequence, mineral spirits to
cut through the WD-40 gunk. Then hosed it with Simple Green to
finish de-greasing it. Followed by Distilled water to flush out the
Simple Green and finally denatured alcohol to get rid of the water.

I\'d say it came out pretty clean.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/685910956580405312/754506691353116722/unknown.png

Looks like a Model 15 teletype machine. Yep:
<http://www.aetherltd.com/images/tty15-2/typebarscleanedmore.jpg>
<http://brassgoggles.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,43672.0.html>

It\'s clean, but now you get to lubricate it from scratch. I used to
work on those when I lived in Smog Angeles, but haven\'t done any
rebuilds in the last 50 years. Model 15 lube and adjustment manual:
<http://www.aetherltd.com/public/model15manuals/138_Model15_Adj_Oct41.pdf>

The original lube was allegedly whale oil based, so you\'re not going
to find any of that. My guess(tm) that\'s why the oil turned to tar or
varnish. I think if you dig deeper, you\'ll find more varnish. You
may also need to tear down the main shaft. I didn\'t have much luck
with ultrasonic cleaning and had to use acetone to get rid of
persistent varnish.

I recall using either light clock oil or sewing machine oil which have
the advantage of not evaporating and having a stable viscosity over
some temperature range. It\'s been a long time, so check the forums
for the latest suggestions. If you need any help from me, forget it.
I\'m busy untrashing my house after moving the entire office home.

Good luck.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[ohg...@gmail.com]

On Thursday, December 24, 2020 at 3:19:47 PM UTC-5, Peter W. wrote:

a} Please read the MSDS for WD40. It is 100% volatile. Really.
b) The nasty, sticky skunge \'left behind\' by WD40 is not from the WD40, but what was re-distributed by the WD40 all over everything.
c) How to get rid of it: There are various solvents that are quite effective depending on the substrate. Brake Cleaner is one. Carburetor Cleaner is another - again, depending on the substrate. There are many others. Ans there is always the dishwasher.
d) First-cause was not enough WD40 in the first place, sufficient to both dissolve and then rinse off the skunge.
e) WD40 is neither a lubricant, nor an anti-oxidant, nor a cleaner, nor much of anything else other than a material designed to displace water. And it does that exceedingly well. All the other \'off-label\' stuff is much like adding aspirin, chelated iron and Karo syrup to Christmas Tree water. Does it work?
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Here\'s what bothers me about WD40 despite what the MSDS says. I\'ve used it where there was no previous lubricant, and found later than it crusted over. I used it twice, once on an HDMI connector on the back of a bluray and the other on a micro USB connector on a wifi extender, both a bit touchy due to contact issues. Yes, I know it\'s not a contact preservative but any clean lube works fine off label. Several months later, both quit working. Removing the connectors revealed white crusty material on both the connector and inside the cables. I ended up using WD to flush out the crusties and then flushed out the WD with Free All. No more problems.

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <8329151d-88c8-4b2b-9d4e-856c9e176fafn@googlegroups.com>,
ohger1s@gmail.com says...

Here\'s what bothers me about WD40 despite what the MSDS says. I\'ve used it where there was no previous lubricant, and found later than it crusted over. I used it twice, once on an HDMI connector on the back of a bluray and the other on a micro USB connector on a wifi extender, both a bit touchy due to contact issues. Yes, I
know it\'s not a contact preservative but any clean lube works fine off label. Several months later, both quit working. Removing the connectors revealed white crusty material on both the connector and inside the cables. I ended up using WD to flush out the crusties and then flushed out the WD with Free All. No more problems.

I have seen WD40 leave behind some crud also. Not sure if it was dust
it attracted or what, but it was crud. Free All did the same thing to
me on a piece of equipment. I do not let WD-40 in the house and use
Kroil to loosen stuck bolts.
I use other oils for lubrication.

 

[Phil Allison]

Peter Wanker Raving Luantic & Pig wrote:

===================================
> a} Please read the MSDS for WD40. It is 100% volatile. Really.

** Pedantic tripe - like every post from the trolling nutter.

> e) WD40 is neither a lubricant,

** Contains lots of light oil.

> nor an anti-oxidant,

** The oil layer keeps oxygen and water at bay so it does that job.

> nor a cleaner,

** Dissolves greases and many other things in an instant.

> nor much of anything else other than a material designed to displace water.

** Very rarely used it for that.

But it does kill cockroaches pretty quick.


...... Phil

 

[Peter W.]

Yo, Drongo:

I waited until after Christmas - my bad. But as a New Year\'s present, I wish to reassure you that your position as Village Idiot is secure. You DO NOT have to compete for it.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park. PA

 

[bruce bowser]

On Sunday, September 13, 2020 at 4:00:07 AM UTC-4, Fox\'s Mercantile wrote:

On 9/12/20 11:26 AM, Fox\'s Mercantile wrote:
So, my question is how do you remove it?
Using a siphon sprayer, I sprayed, in sequence, mineral spirits to
cut through the WD-40 gunk. Then hosed it with Simple Green to
finish de-greasing it. Followed by Distilled water to flush out the
Simple Green and finally denatured alcohol to get rid of the water.

I\'d say it came out pretty clean.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/685910956580405312/754506691353116722/unknown.png

Alcohol can etch aluminum, marble, limestone, travertine and certain granites and it can remove plastics and various forms of carbon (like from valves).

 

[Peter W.]

a} Please read the MSDS for WD40. It is 100% volatile. Really.
b) The nasty, sticky skunge \'left behind\' by WD40 is not from the WD40, but what was re-distributed by the WD40 all over everything.
c) How to get rid of it: There are various solvents that are quite effective depending on the substrate. Brake Cleaner is one. Carburetor Cleaner is another - again, depending on the substrate. There are many others. Ans there is always the dishwasher.
d) First-cause was not enough WD40 in the first place, sufficient to both dissolve and then rinse off the skunge.
e) WD40 is neither a lubricant, nor an anti-oxidant, nor a cleaner, nor much of anything else other than a material designed to displace water. And it does that exceedingly well. All the other \'off-label\' stuff is much like adding aspirin, chelated iron and Karo syrup to Christmas Tree water. Does it work?

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA