Remove Spot weld

T

Trudeau

Guest
I have a rechargable drill that has some batteries that are bad. Id like to
replace them. Inside the battery pack are 10 or so rechargable batteries.
The problem is that they are connected together (in series) with a tang of
metal that is spot welded to each battery connecting them together. I dont
think I can un soder this, as its not really sodered. Its spot welded. I
could cut the tang I suppose but dont know How I would connect this up
again. And do it in such a way that will let me fit it back into the drill
pack it comes from. (Obviously I want to replace some of the faulty
batterys.)
Any advice.

Thanks.
 
I use a small drill bit (just a tad larger than the spot weld) and drill
them out. you will have a larger part of your tab left. also I bought some
batterys and they gave me some new tabs that will solder back on the
batterys.
just a thought.
ghl
 
"ghl" <ghl@cableone.net> wrote in message
news:1101vf4h9os026d@corp.supernews.com...
I use a small drill bit (just a tad larger than the spot weld) and drill
them out. you will have a larger part of your tab left. also I bought some
batterys and they gave me some new tabs that will solder back on the
batterys.
just a thought.
ghl


Thanks all. For your answers. Glad to know that there are really no perfect
Click to expand...
answers. At least I know that. Certainly the drilling of the spot weld is
the most creative. Not sure if that will work in my case as it may drill
into the battery. Although I suppose if that particular battery is bad then
It doesn't matter!

Thanks.
 
Hi.
Fit a knife edge between the tab and the cell body, hammering the
knife the spotweld gives up leaving a neat full lenght tab that can be
soldered to the new cell. Scrape the new cell and tin it before
soldering it to the old tab.
 
"Trudeau" <Trudeau@123.com> wrote:

I have a rechargable drill that has some batteries that are bad. Id like to
replace them. Inside the battery pack are 10 or so rechargable batteries.
The problem is that they are connected together (in series) with a tang of
metal that is spot welded to each battery connecting them together. I dont
think I can un soder this, as its not really sodered. Its spot welded. I
could cut the tang I suppose but dont know How I would connect this up
again. And do it in such a way that will let me fit it back into the drill
pack it comes from. (Obviously I want to replace some of the faulty
batterys.)
Any advice.

Thanks.

I had a similar situation once. I did manage to get them apart; seem
Click to expand...
to recall 'tearing' or cutting. Obviously need to retain as much of
each tag as possible when cutting. Then I was able to place solder on
the tags. Position solder spots so that you can fold up afterwards.
Also place solder on opposite side on one tag, so that when (large)
solder tip applied it will melt solder on other side of tag, against
which you've pressed the next battery's tag. If there really is
insufficient tag left after cutting to enable 're-folding', solder on
some heavy wire or tin strip.

Easier to do than describe <g>.

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK
 
"Trudeau" <Trudeau@123.com> wrote in message
news:L9OdndlG94V-d53fRVn-iQ@rogers.com...
I have a rechargable drill that has some batteries that are bad. Id like
to
replace them. Inside the battery pack are 10 or so rechargable batteries.
The problem is that they are connected together (in series) with a tang of
metal that is spot welded to each battery connecting them together. I dont
think I can un soder this, as its not really sodered. Its spot welded. I
could cut the tang I suppose but dont know How I would connect this up
again. And do it in such a way that will let me fit it back into the drill
pack it comes from. (Obviously I want to replace some of the faulty
batterys.)
Any advice.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Cut them apart with a cut-off wheel, Dremel for example. Our local
hardware store has a spot welding setup for building custom battery
packs.
 
Hi,
I used to recondition NiCad belts for a professional film rental
company. I built a load tester that matched a typical camera. When the
weakest cell would drop out the test rig would alarm and I'd mark the
bad cell. In this way we'd test each belt and keep them near the rated
output.
I also recondition batteries for my 9.6 V Makita tools. I tend to cut
the tabs as long as possible and resolder them together using a
modified solder gun. It's just uses two bare copper 10 ga? solid wire
filed to a flattened squared point with a ~ 1/4" seperation. I crimp
the tabs together and use the gun to heat the joint. Cool sparks. Works
a lot better than a regular gun. ( of course a spot welder would be the
best solution). You also can as suggested above cut the tabs off with a
knife or sharp chisel. This I have to do most often to deal with the
thermal cut out or the end leads that form the contacts. I usually try
to avoid this by scrounging good end batteries. I have found NiCads in
recycling bins that were brand new but had cracked housings, broken
contacts or had been run over.
Be very careful not to short the battery out. This can be very
exciting! I avoid this by repackaging the pack and connecting the two
middle batteries through the open end as the last thing (The Makitas a
stick battery 4X2 and the end is where it "turns the corner").
Richardd
 
<spudnuty@lycos.com> wrote in message
news:1107403401.615294.176360@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Hi,
I used to recondition NiCad belts for a professional film rental
company. I built a load tester that matched a typical camera. When the
weakest cell would drop out the test rig would alarm and I'd mark the
bad cell. In this way we'd test each belt and keep them near the rated
output.
I also recondition batteries for my 9.6 V Makita tools. I tend to cut
the tabs as long as possible and resolder them together using a
modified solder gun. It's just uses two bare copper 10 ga? solid wire
filed to a flattened squared point with a ~ 1/4" seperation. I crimp
the tabs together and use the gun to heat the joint. Cool sparks. Works
a lot better than a regular gun. ( of course a spot welder would be the
best solution). You also can as suggested above cut the tabs off with a
knife or sharp chisel. This I have to do most often to deal with the
thermal cut out or the end leads that form the contacts. I usually try
to avoid this by scrounging good end batteries. I have found NiCads in
recycling bins that were brand new but had cracked housings, broken
contacts or had been run over.
Be very careful not to short the battery out. This can be very
exciting! I avoid this by repackaging the pack and connecting the two
middle batteries through the open end as the last thing (The Makitas a
stick battery 4X2 and the end is where it "turns the corner").
Richardd
Click to expand...
Thanks again for all your suggestions. Im going to try this weekend to see
what are the best options for me.
 
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