remove dried up grease from VCR mechanical parts

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How can I remove dried up grease from VCR mechanical parts ? Is a
Q-tip dipped into pure alcohool ok? Do I need anything stronger? TIA
 
"interuser@hotmail.com" wrote:
How can I remove dried up grease from VCR mechanical parts ? Is a
Q-tip dipped into pure alcohool ok? Do I need anything stronger? TIA
Click to expand...
Alcohol is not a very good solvent for greasy substances. A much
better solvent is naptha, available in little squeeze bottles as
Ronsonal cigarette lighter fluid, or much cheaper and in quart cans at
paint stores as VM&P naptha (varnish maker's and painter's naptha).
It is a good grease solvent, evaporates with no residue, and attacks
few plastics. Also great at removing self stick labels.

--
John Popelish
 
On 29 Dec 2003 16:14:11 -0800, interuser@hotmail.com (interuser@hotmail.com)
wroth:

How can I remove dried up grease from VCR mechanical parts ? Is a
Q-tip dipped into pure alcohool ok? Do I need anything stronger? TIA
Click to expand...
I get good results with naphtha. Also known as mineral spirits. Easy
to find in small quantities as cigarette lighter fluid.

Of course, it's somewhat flammable, but then, so's alcohol.

Jim
 
On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 01:20:55 GMT, John Popelish <jpopelish@rica.net>
wrote:

"interuser@hotmail.com" wrote:

How can I remove dried up grease from VCR mechanical parts ? Is a
Q-tip dipped into pure alcohool ok? Do I need anything stronger? TIA

Alcohol is not a very good solvent for greasy substances. A much
better solvent is naptha, available in little squeeze bottles as
Ronsonal cigarette lighter fluid, or much cheaper and in quart cans at
paint stores as VM&P naptha (varnish maker's and painter's naptha).
It is a good grease solvent, evaporates with no residue, and attacks
few plastics. Also great at removing self stick labels.
Click to expand...
Also available under the label "Goo-B-Gone"... takes the damned
stick-on store pricing right off without any residue.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
 
Alcohol is a waist of time anywhere near electronics . Use goof off
cleaner on the grease .
 
James Meyer <jmeyer@nowhere.com> wrote in message news:<ekk1vvs343eukk8jcgj2g3tvpvggl5a4be@4ax.com>...
On 29 Dec 2003 16:14:11 -0800, interuser@hotmail.com (interuser@hotmail.com)
wroth:

How can I remove dried up grease from VCR mechanical parts ? Is a
Q-tip dipped into pure alcohool ok? Do I need anything stronger? TIA

I get good results with naphtha. Also known as mineral spirits. Easy
to find in small quantities as cigarette lighter fluid.

Of course, it's somewhat flammable, but then, so's alcohol.

Jim
Click to expand...

A common problem, especially in Mitsubishi who use a graphite based
grease which goes lumpy (I kid you not). CRC 2-26 works, but for a
long term cure you need to strip it down, solvent wash (petrol OK) and
then regrease - Koenig make a nice one formulated fro plastic stuff.
73 de VK3BFA Andrew
 
If you have good access to the grease, simply *wipe*--or scrape--it off.
When you regrease, the old stuff will mix in with the new. Give the
mechanism plenty of 'excercise' to facilitate the process. (However, there
are some lubricants which are not compatible with others.) Be careful with
any solvent you might choose, as it could attack any plastic parts with
which it comes into contact.

If you simply hose the mechanism out with solvents, you risk washing out
unnoticed lubrication and replacing it with nothing, damaging plastic or
solving enamel insulated wiring...or possibly greasing something which was
never meant to be. Be very careful, and--ideally--take pictures or notes as
you go. Use a minimum of solvent, and relube each subassembly as you clean
it.

jak

"Andrew VK3BFA" <ablight@alphalink.com.au> wrote in message
news:1fc7b362.0312300427.2da30514@posting.google.com...
James Meyer <jmeyer@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:<ekk1vvs343eukk8jcgj2g3tvpvggl5a4be@4ax.com>...
On 29 Dec 2003 16:14:11 -0800, interuser@hotmail.com
(interuser@hotmail.com)
wroth:

How can I remove dried up grease from VCR mechanical parts ? Is a
Q-tip dipped into pure alcohool ok? Do I need anything stronger? TIA

I get good results with naphtha. Also known as mineral spirits. Easy
to find in small quantities as cigarette lighter fluid.

Of course, it's somewhat flammable, but then, so's alcohol.

Jim


A common problem, especially in Mitsubishi who use a graphite based
grease which goes lumpy (I kid you not). CRC 2-26 works, but for a
long term cure you need to strip it down, solvent wash (petrol OK) and
then regrease - Koenig make a nice one formulated fro plastic stuff.
73 de VK3BFA Andrew
Click to expand...
 
On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 13:50:31 -0600, "jakdedert"
<jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

If you have good access to the grease, simply *wipe*--or scrape--it off.
When you regrease, the old stuff will mix in with the new. Give the
mechanism plenty of 'excercise' to facilitate the process. (However, there
are some lubricants which are not compatible with others.) Be careful with
any solvent you might choose, as it could attack any plastic parts with
which it comes into contact.

If you simply hose the mechanism out with solvents, you risk washing out
unnoticed lubrication and replacing it with nothing, damaging plastic or
solving enamel insulated wiring...or possibly greasing something which was
never meant to be. Be very careful, and--ideally--take pictures or notes as
you go. Use a minimum of solvent, and relube each subassembly as you clean
it.

jak
[snip]
Click to expand...

Have you priced VCR's recently? They practically give them away.

I recently bought two of them for $69 (total) to use as cable
converters for old TV sets.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
 
Me personally...or was that a rhetorical question? No, I haven't priced
them lately. I have enough of them laying around here--that I haven't
bothered to fix--to last me a lifetime. I use them the same way you do, but
they don't cost me a cent. Someone's always throwing one away. OTOH, I do
have a Sony SL-750 that I'm gonna fix up for my daily driver...someday.

jak

"Jim Thompson" <invalid@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
news:28n3vvgbntrvc7um5alb7uhrlbbm3gaq50@4ax.com...
On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 13:50:31 -0600, "jakdedert"
jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

If you have good access to the grease, simply *wipe*--or scrape--it off.
When you regrease, the old stuff will mix in with the new. Give the
mechanism plenty of 'excercise' to facilitate the process. (However,
there
are some lubricants which are not compatible with others.) Be careful
with
any solvent you might choose, as it could attack any plastic parts with
which it comes into contact.

If you simply hose the mechanism out with solvents, you risk washing out
unnoticed lubrication and replacing it with nothing, damaging plastic or
solving enamel insulated wiring...or possibly greasing something which
was
never meant to be. Be very careful, and--ideally--take pictures or notes
as
you go. Use a minimum of solvent, and relube each subassembly as you
clean
it.

jak
[snip]

Have you priced VCR's recently? They practically give them away.

I recently bought two of them for $69 (total) to use as cable
converters for old TV sets.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
Click to expand...
 
On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 01:20:55 GMT John Popelish <jpopelish@rica.net>
wrote:

VM&P naptha (varnish maker's and painter's naptha).
Click to expand...
So THAT's what VM&P stands for! I came across that term years ago when
I was our painter's supervisor for a brief time, and no one, not even
our solvent salesman, could tell me.

I trust you're pretty sure of this?

Thanks,

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
ablight@alphalink.com.au (Andrew VK3BFA) wrote in message news:<1fc7b362.0312300427.2da30514@posting.google.com>...
James Meyer <jmeyer@nowhere.com> wrote in message news:<ekk1vvs343eukk8jcgj2g3tvpvggl5a4be@4ax.com>...
On 29 Dec 2003 16:14:11 -0800, interuser@hotmail.com (interuser@hotmail.com)
wroth:

How can I remove dried up grease from VCR mechanical parts ? Is a

A common problem, especially in Mitsubishi who use a graphite based
grease which goes lumpy (I kid you not). CRC 2-26 works, but for a
Click to expand...

Some greases without graphite in also forms hard lumps. Graphite is a
plus since it is a good lubricant when under more pressure than grease
alone. The graphite has nothing to do with the forming of lumps, that
is the grease's fault. Graphite's only real downside is conductivity.


Regards, NT
 
Jim Adney wrote:
On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 01:20:55 GMT John Popelish <jpopelish@rica.net
wrote:

VM&P naptha (varnish maker's and painter's naptha).

So THAT's what VM&P stands for! I came across that term years ago when
I was our painter's supervisor for a brief time, and no one, not even
our solvent salesman, could tell me.

I trust you're pretty sure of this?
Click to expand...
My wife came home from a shopping trip looking for naptha, and said
all she could find was VM&P naptha, and didn't know what that meant,
so she didn't get it. I went back and read the can (packaged by Klean
Strip), and in the fine print at the top front of the can, it says,
"100% Varnish Makers and Painters Naptha". I connected the dots.

Like this:
http://www.allprocorp.com/techbuls/SunnyTB/7590TB21082VMPNaphtha.cfm
http://www2.sherwin-williams.com/apps/Glossary/middle.asp?t=VM%26P+Naphtha
--
John Popelish
 
In article <5el1vvkvgn64fvcudq7cc03qr7ftgj5djn@4ax.com>,
invalid@invalid.invalid says...
On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 01:20:55 GMT, John Popelish <jpopelish@rica.net
wrote:

"interuser@hotmail.com" wrote:

How can I remove dried up grease from VCR mechanical parts ? Is a
Q-tip dipped into pure alcohool ok? Do I need anything stronger? TIA

Alcohol is not a very good solvent for greasy substances. A much
better solvent is naptha, available in little squeeze bottles as
Ronsonal cigarette lighter fluid, or much cheaper and in quart cans at
paint stores as VM&P naptha (varnish maker's and painter's naptha).
It is a good grease solvent, evaporates with no residue, and attacks
few plastics. Also great at removing self stick labels.


Also available under the label "Goo-B-Gone"... takes the damned
stick-on store pricing right off without any residue.
Click to expand...
Really? Naptha is essentially gasoline (white-gas, or Coleman
gas, if you must). Last I looked at a cracking tower schematic
naphtha and gasoline were pretty much the same thing.

I thought "GooGone" was citris based.

--
Keith
 
"Keith R. Williams" wrote:
In article <5el1vvkvgn64fvcudq7cc03qr7ftgj5djn@4ax.com>,
invalid@invalid.invalid says...
On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 01:20:55 GMT, John Popelish <jpopelish@rica.net
wrote:

"interuser@hotmail.com" wrote:

How can I remove dried up grease from VCR mechanical parts ? Is a
Q-tip dipped into pure alcohool ok? Do I need anything stronger? TIA

Alcohol is not a very good solvent for greasy substances. A much
better solvent is naptha, available in little squeeze bottles as
Ronsonal cigarette lighter fluid, or much cheaper and in quart cans at
paint stores as VM&P naptha (varnish maker's and painter's naptha).
It is a good grease solvent, evaporates with no residue, and attacks
few plastics. Also great at removing self stick labels.


Also available under the label "Goo-B-Gone"... takes the damned
stick-on store pricing right off without any residue.

Really? Naptha is essentially gasoline (white-gas, or Coleman
gas, if you must). Last I looked at a cracking tower schematic
naphtha and gasoline were pretty much the same thing.

I thought "GooGone" was citris based.

--
Keith
Click to expand...
The label says that it also contains "Petroleum distillates"

http://www.googone.com/ home page.

http://www.googone.com/msds.shtml MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEETS

--
Merry Christmas!

Take care, and God bless.
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
"N. Thornton" <bigcat@meeow.co.uk> wrote in message
news:a7076635.0312301759.70538978@posting.google.com...
ablight@alphalink.com.au (Andrew VK3BFA) wrote in message
news:<1fc7b362.0312300427.2da30514@posting.google.com>...
James Meyer <jmeyer@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:<ekk1vvs343eukk8jcgj2g3tvpvggl5a4be@4ax.com>...
On 29 Dec 2003 16:14:11 -0800, interuser@hotmail.com
(interuser@hotmail.com)
wroth:

How can I remove dried up grease from VCR mechanical parts ? Is a

A common problem, especially in Mitsubishi who use a graphite based
grease which goes lumpy (I kid you not). CRC 2-26 works, but for a


Some greases without graphite in also forms hard lumps. Graphite is a
plus since it is a good lubricant when under more pressure than grease
alone. The graphite has nothing to do with the forming of lumps, that
is the grease's fault. Graphite's only real downside is conductivity.


Regards, NT
Click to expand...
ARCO used to sell a motor oil that had a very high Graphite content. It
worked very well where wear, and fuel economy were the measured factors. I
used it in everything. I discovered rather painfully, with one vehicle that
burned oil, it required frequent replacement or cleaning of the spark plugs
to keep the beast running. As the oil burned in the combustion chamber it
plated, and shorted out the plug.

Obviously not a good choice for that particular vehicle.

Louis
 
"Keith R. Williams" <krw@attglobal.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.1a5c0cc496b6095c98a9f3@enews.newsguy.com...
In article <5el1vvkvgn64fvcudq7cc03qr7ftgj5djn@4ax.com>,
invalid@invalid.invalid says...
On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 01:20:55 GMT, John Popelish <jpopelish@rica.net
wrote:

"interuser@hotmail.com" wrote:

How can I remove dried up grease from VCR mechanical parts ? Is a
Q-tip dipped into pure alcohool ok? Do I need anything stronger? TIA

Alcohol is not a very good solvent for greasy substances. A much
better solvent is naptha, available in little squeeze bottles as
Ronsonal cigarette lighter fluid, or much cheaper and in quart cans at
paint stores as VM&P naptha (varnish maker's and painter's naptha).
It is a good grease solvent, evaporates with no residue, and attacks
few plastics. Also great at removing self stick labels.


Also available under the label "Goo-B-Gone"... takes the damned
stick-on store pricing right off without any residue.

Really? Naptha is essentially gasoline (white-gas, or Coleman
gas, if you must). Last I looked at a cracking tower schematic
naphtha and gasoline were pretty much the same thing.

Gasoline is basically naptha with a lot of additives....
Click to expand...

jak

I thought "GooGone" was citris based.

--
Keith
Click to expand...
 
In article <5cEIb.945$kK.17@bignews3.bellsouth.net>,
jdedert@bellsouth.net says...
"Keith R. Williams" <krw@attglobal.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.1a5c0cc496b6095c98a9f3@enews.newsguy.com...
In article <5el1vvkvgn64fvcudq7cc03qr7ftgj5djn@4ax.com>,
invalid@invalid.invalid says...
On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 01:20:55 GMT, John Popelish <jpopelish@rica.net
wrote:

"interuser@hotmail.com" wrote:

How can I remove dried up grease from VCR mechanical parts ? Is a
Q-tip dipped into pure alcohool ok? Do I need anything stronger? TIA

Alcohol is not a very good solvent for greasy substances. A much
better solvent is naptha, available in little squeeze bottles as
Ronsonal cigarette lighter fluid, or much cheaper and in quart cans at
paint stores as VM&P naptha (varnish maker's and painter's naptha).
It is a good grease solvent, evaporates with no residue, and attacks
few plastics. Also great at removing self stick labels.


Also available under the label "Goo-B-Gone"... takes the damned
stick-on store pricing right off without any residue.

Really? Naptha is essentially gasoline (white-gas, or Coleman
gas, if you must). Last I looked at a cracking tower schematic
naphtha and gasoline were pretty much the same thing.

Gasoline is basically naptha with a lot of additives....
Click to expand...
Evedently, though some resources show a distinction. In any
case, the stuff is to be handled like gasoline.

http://science.howstuffworks.com/oil-refining5.htm

--
Keith
 
Ok my responce must have been lost ?
Alcohol is useless as a cleaner in electronics . Just about anyting else
works better .
GOOF-OFF cleaner is very good to clean up grease and many other things .
you can get it in small pocket size cans or a bottle .
 
Ok my responce must have been lost ?
Alcohol is useless as a cleaner in electronics . Just about anyting else
works better .
GOOF-OFF cleaner is very good to clean up grease and many other things .
you can get it in small pocket size cans or a bottle .
 
Hi Ken...saw your OP, and both of these....

jak

"Ken G." <goodguyy@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:24791-3FF45B2D-183@storefull-2311.public.lawson.webtv.net...
Ok my responce must have been lost ?
Alcohol is useless as a cleaner in electronics . Just about anyting else
works better .
GOOF-OFF cleaner is very good to clean up grease and many other things .
you can get it in small pocket size cans or a bottle .
Click to expand...
 
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