RCA model HD52W67 Flyback transformer help

Hey guys, been a while away from this group. Looking for help with this TV. It's a friend of mine that lives about 1.5 hours from me. TV won't start up - green power light shows for about 15 seconds then goes out. No blinking at all. I checked the horizontal output trans and it tested good. Haven't signal traced input to it yet, but suspect the flyback may be toast based on google searches. Anyhow, I need the part number off the flyback to see how much a replacement is. My buddy is older and can't see good enough to read anything off the transformer. I saw many transformers on line in the $15..00 - $20.00 range, so may just buy one and replace. Would any of you know what the part number is or reference a replacement? Again, TV 1.5 hours away, so I don't mind purchasing a flyback only to find out this isn't what is wrong. If there is a common fault with this set regarding power up issues, please share. Thanks for your help group.

 

A scope would be the best thing. And pull the HV lead out of the flyback.

There are caps in the power supply that go bad and cause the B+ to get too high. And ESR meter should reveal which ones, I don't remember anymore.

Also, on the sweep board look for bad connections to a 1 nF cap across the horizontal output transistor BEFORE to try to fire it back up. If the connections are bad the HV goes up too fast and will crack the neck off one of the CRTs.

There is also a fusible on the signal board that nuisance blows and causes about that symptom, you'll have to look up on the net to find it. It has been many years since I worked on TVs. There was a time I could tell you right where this shit is but not no mo.

Anyway, the main cap, the 1 nF to watch is very close to the horizontal output. Just resolder that before even plugging the thing in again. The lytic in the power supply may well be bulging, that causes the 130 volts to go high.

If that is an ITC222 which I think likely it tries to start three times and if it can't get into regulation the it gives up. One possibility you don't want to hear about it that one of the tubes is already cracked and it is shutting down due to overcurrent.

Most of the flybacks for those have removable HV connectors. Take some side cutters and press in on the tabs exposed by the slots after removing the insulation boot. If the boot is not removable then you have to go to the other end.

Either way is a PITA because none of these connectors are made to be removed. You WILL need hot glue to put them back in the event all these components are good. However you can flip the sweep board up and check the connections without pulling the HV wire. You can also look for bulging caps without pulling that wire.

As far as the flyback, if Asti Magnetics is still around they probably got some stock left of these transformers. (also the HV splitters go bad, they might have them) Too many people have had trouble with eBay parts so that might not be the best idea.

Hope you don't have a cracked tube. If you do and can find one somewhere I can walk you through the alignment procedure. Actually it is pretty cool but you do need the original remote to do it. Physically screwing the tube in is easy but if you don't do the procedure right it takes like days, instead of the twenty minutes I used to do it in. there are also two types of tubes, one type has higher gain. When you mix them you might have to do a slight modification to that CRT board. But even if you do need one, they should not be that expensive anymore. It just gets labor intensive.

 

[John Robertson]

On 10/17/2016 4:15 PM, stokesbr63@gmail.com wrote:

Hey guys, been a while away from this group. Looking for help with this TV. It's a friend of mine that lives about 1.5 hours from me. TV won't start up - green power light shows for about 15 seconds then goes out. No blinking at all. I checked the horizontal output trans and it tested good. Haven't signal traced input to it yet, but suspect the flyback may be toast based on google searches. Anyhow, I need the part number off the flyback to see how much a replacement is. My buddy is older and can't see good enough to read anything off the transformer. I saw many transformers on line in the $15..00 - $20.00 range, so may just buy one and replace. Would any of you know what the part number is or reference a replacement? Again, TV 1.5 hours away, so I don't mind purchasing a flyback only to find out this isn't what is wrong. If there is a common fault with this set regarding power up issues, please share. Thanks for your help group.

A suggestion is to borrow or buy a Bob Parker design LOPT/Flyback
tester. Great tool if you work on tube monitors...(we sell those as a
kit assembled by Alltronics).

Or you can cheat with an audio signal generator and a scope by setting
the generator to 15,500ish cycles at 1V and see what the scope shows on
other outputs from the flyback (you need to remove it from the TV
first). Should show comparable although weaker signals on most lines if
you get them hooked up correctly.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

 

[Bruce Esquibel]

stokesbr63@gmail.com wrote:

Hey guys, been a while away from this group. Looking for help with this
TV. It's a friend of mine that lives about 1.5 hours from me. TV won't
start up - green power light shows for about 15 seconds then goes out. No
blinking at all. I checked the horizontal output trans and it tested good.
Haven't signal traced input to it yet, but suspect the flyback may be
toast based on google searches. Anyhow, I need the part number off the
flyback to see how much a replacement is. My buddy is older and can't see
good enough to read anything off the transformer. I saw many transformers
on line in the $15.00 - $20.00 range, so may just buy one and replace.
Would any of you know what the part number is or reference a replacement?
Again, TV 1.5 hours away, so I don't mind purchasing a flyback only to
find out this isn't what is wrong. If there is a common fault with this
set regarding power up issues, please share. Thanks for your help group.

Hmmm, why would a HD52W67, which seems to be a 52" 1080p HD LCD Television
need to have a flyback transformer?

-bruce
bje@ripco.com

 

[pfjw@aol.com]

On Tuesday, October 18, 2016 at 7:32:29 AM UTC-4, Bruce Esquibel wrote:

Hmmm, why would a HD52W67, which seems to be a 52" 1080p HD LCD Television
need to have a flyback transformer?

There is that. This is a rear-projection Television.

What about the lamp(s)? If they are out, would it start?

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

On Tuesday, October 18, 2016 at 7:32:29 AM UTC-4, Bruce Esquibel wrote:

stokesbr63@gmail.com wrote:
Hey guys, been a while away from this group. Looking for help with this
TV. It's a friend of mine that lives about 1.5 hours from me. TV won't
start up - green power light shows for about 15 seconds then goes out. No
blinking at all. I checked the horizontal output trans and it tested good.
Haven't signal traced input to it yet, but suspect the flyback may be
toast based on google searches. Anyhow, I need the part number off the
flyback to see how much a replacement is. My buddy is older and can't see
good enough to read anything off the transformer. I saw many transformers
on line in the $15.00 - $20.00 range, so may just buy one and replace.
Would any of you know what the part number is or reference a replacement?
Again, TV 1.5 hours away, so I don't mind purchasing a flyback only to
find out this isn't what is wrong. If there is a common fault with this
set regarding power up issues, please share. Thanks for your help group..


Hmmm, why would a HD52W67, which seems to be a 52" 1080p HD LCD Television
need to have a flyback transformer?

-bruce
bje@ripco.com

Why do you think it's an LCD PTV? I used to work on tons of RCAs and am pretty sure it's a CRT based ITC series chassis.

To the OP: why waste your time on this POS? You can find tons of running CRT based projectors on Craigs for the cost of schlepping them away. Older RCA PTK195s are a good choice (although not HD), or any Hitachi or Toshiba from the early 2Ks. Avoid any Sony projector of any type.

 

[pfjw@aol.com]

On Tuesday, October 18, 2016 at 7:57:16 AM UTC-4, pf...@aol.com wrote:

On Tuesday, October 18, 2016 at 7:32:29 AM UTC-4, Bruce Esquibel wrote:

Hmmm, why would a HD52W67, which seems to be a 52" 1080p HD LCD Television
need to have a flyback transformer?

There is that. This is a rear-projection Television.

What about the lamp(s)? If they are out, would it start?

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Well... they do, in fact have flybacks. And there is quite the You-Tube guides to repairing them. Here is one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6Wa8FvSz-s

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 10:35:16 PM UTC-5, jurb...@gmail.com wrote:

A scope would be the best thing. And pull the HV lead out of the flyback.

There are caps in the power supply that go bad and cause the B+ to get too high. And ESR meter should reveal which ones, I don't remember anymore.

Also, on the sweep board look for bad connections to a 1 nF cap across the horizontal output transistor BEFORE to try to fire it back up. If the connections are bad the HV goes up too fast and will crack the neck off one of the CRTs.

There is also a fusible on the signal board that nuisance blows and causes about that symptom, you'll have to look up on the net to find it. It has been many years since I worked on TVs. There was a time I could tell you right where this shit is but not no mo.

Anyway, the main cap, the 1 nF to watch is very close to the horizontal output. Just resolder that before even plugging the thing in again. The lytic in the power supply may well be bulging, that causes the 130 volts to go high.

If that is an ITC222 which I think likely it tries to start three times and if it can't get into regulation the it gives up. One possibility you don't want to hear about it that one of the tubes is already cracked and it is shutting down due to overcurrent.

Most of the flybacks for those have removable HV connectors. Take some side cutters and press in on the tabs exposed by the slots after removing the insulation boot. If the boot is not removable then you have to go to the other end.

Either way is a PITA because none of these connectors are made to be removed. You WILL need hot glue to put them back in the event all these components are good. However you can flip the sweep board up and check the connections without pulling the HV wire. You can also look for bulging caps without pulling that wire.

As far as the flyback, if Asti Magnetics is still around they probably got some stock left of these transformers. (also the HV splitters go bad, they might have them) Too many people have had trouble with eBay parts so that might not be the best idea.

Hope you don't have a cracked tube. If you do and can find one somewhere I can walk you through the alignment procedure. Actually it is pretty cool but you do need the original remote to do it. Physically screwing the tube in is easy but if you don't do the procedure right it takes like days, instead of the twenty minutes I used to do it in. there are also two types of tubes, one type has higher gain. When you mix them you might have to do a slight modification to that CRT board. But even if you do need one, they should not be that expensive anymore. It just gets labor intensive.

Thanks for all the info. I haven't ruled out a cracked tube. Wanted to disconnect the flyback and see if set would remain powered up, but doesn't look like the wire disconnects from flyback. I will also check the cap you referred to by the HOT. Will also check solder joints on flyback since I read these could be suspect. Almost hope tube is cracked for excuse to trash set, but haven't come across a broken flat screen I can fix to give to my buddy..

 

Some did have a second anode wire that pulled out of the fly but later ones didn't. And even if it did, I had a couple that arced after they were reassembled, so the best plan is to remove it at the distribution block.

If you're lucky, you might just have that bad solder on the cap. The problem with that retrace cap is that if the customer continually tries to start the TV after that cap breaks loose, it will keep overvolting and running into the shutdown circuit. Even with the shutdown circuit, the voltage still overshoots and will eventually take out a CRT or yoke unless it shorts the HV output first shutting it down for good.

Most of the time, if the cap has bad solder, it will be burned a bit at the end. My experience is that most of these caps are still good anyway and resoldering them (and fixing the burned pc around it) is sufficient as long as the HV trans, crt(s), and yokes were not affected.

 

If it is an ITC222 there is a fusible right near the flyback that provides voltage to the vertical IC, that can also cause shutdown. Actually I have found times when it was just the connection thereto. In fact sometime is a connection from the flyback. There is also another connection or resistor off the flyback that when bad will prevent the convergence subsystem from initializing.

 

On Tuesday, October 18, 2016 at 4:52:06 PM UTC-4, jurb...@gmail.com wrote:
> If it is an ITC222 there is a fusible right near the flyback that provides voltage to the vertical IC, that can also cause shutdown. Actually I have found times when it was just the connection thereto. In fact sometime is a connection from the flyback. There is also another connection or resistor off the flyback that when bad will prevent the convergence subsystem from initializing.

Yep, remember those little red brick fuses well. And if nothing is amiss connection-wise, run a heat gun over the sweep board and see if it starts. There are a few electros that get lazy and I had a couple of those white opto couplers get thermally sensitive. Wow, talk about dredging up buried memories!

 

[Bruce Esquibel]

ohger1s@gmail.com wrote:

Why do you think it's an LCD PTV? I used to work on tons of RCAs and am
pretty sure it's a CRT based ITC series chassis.

Yeah, sorry about that, my google finger must of been bent to the left and
didn't see the correct results. I thought the number was familar starting
with the HD52 but you are right, it's one of the rptv series.

I do have to agree with someone else about what is the point, there probably
are some listed on Craigs or Freeshopper that can be had for no money.

A couple years ago as a spare, I had a Sony 55" rptv, 16:9 picture but no
atsc tuner, worked fine otherwise and after 3 weeks of trying to unload it
for free, ended up using a sawsall on it to fit it in the garbage.

-bruce
bje@ripco.com

 

What's the point ? First of all, some people for whatever reason, simply do not like the picture on an LCD. I read somewhere that some people's eyes have some response up into the near UV, maybe some of that is leaking through and making the picture look bad to them. And a plasma, even though you are actually seeing a phosphor, since it works on an arc could also leak UV. I know there are UV filters but nothing is perfect.

Another major thing is they finally figured out how to work it. This is why I could charge as much as a new VCR cost to fix the old one - they were finally used to the menus and knew how to set the timer and all that. Don't get me wrong, I am not against learning new things, but how to work a TV set or VCR ? No, and I resent being forced to.

This is out and out war between servicers and manufacturers. Each unit is a battle. When we lose the battle our landfills get another piece of junk in them and they get some more of our money. When we win we get the money and the landfills stay how they are.