S
steve (with eye goggles)
Guest
I would first like to announce that I am not manufacturing drugs. In the
following message I will be mentioning some chemicals that are DEA active. I
would prefer a str8t forward discussion with these ``non-badge wearing
assholes'' and simply ask why they love to destroy furniture and touch the
male penis.
If this message is inappropriate please cancel it. I'm sure the DEA will be
at my door again tomorrow morning but they can only scare you and annoy you
(and send you to psychiatric hospitals.)
I have happened to come into possession of a electronics board that has some
interesting components that I would like to test out. I am under order from
my mother to clean up my shit (i.e., my bedroom not my heroin habit) and I
am behind schedule. It took me like 6 hours to try and chemically clean the
board of interest so that my solder tip would not violate the 8 second
solder rule or completely oxidize into another trip to another store to
purchase a $25 tip (this would take me about 1 week and I have less than
$25.00).
Anycase, I am interested in this ls04 (through the hole dip type thing hex
invertor or so). I believe the board has some ``iridite'' or something on
it. From my understanding it can be ``neutralized'' so that I can work out
the solder.
Anycase I tryied using citric acid (tang (this is a flavored beverage - I do
not know how to get high from tang)). I tried phospheric acid (The acid is
bad because I purchased it from a store. It is contains such little poison I
figured I'd give it a shot - dunno how the acid is colored pink though).
Then I tried the oxalic acid. I applied a liberal amount of
methly-ethly-ketones to the solder joints. The latter did loosen the solder.
I used my solder-sucker and was able to get a bit of the solder out. I
collect the solder on a magazine and place it in a pile on a paper plate
(maybe you can see how my cleaning creates more mess than anything else).
The remaining jointing material maybe (I am assuming) chromium and a silver
type crap (just enough to burn out the chip if I apply my iron to get the
topside solder to go plastic. I do not have wick and iron that will work
fast enough to remove the plastic - no I can't go to the store and buy the
equipment because it would be illegal and I am broke).
I figure I might put on the jackass hat and play chemist. I whipped up a
batch of sulferous solution (5 milliliters (just enough to turn out a 1/4
pound of crank this week with some tang on the side)). I added some sodium
hydrogen sulfide and tested it with a purple leaf (the leaf was not
marijuana). To me the solution seemed ``acidic''. I'm not a chemist but I
was hoping to make something that was non-corossive to tin and copper but
the bacon grease (i.e., my fingers and such touching the board) made me
nervouse so I decided to not try and fractionally sperate the sodium. I
applied some of the acid and it did loosen some of the solder and ate
through a scratch of paint.
I added some nitrogen (again a total of like 5 milliliters - the precursor
chemicals are on registry to my current place of residence (this doesn't
really seem like complicated chemistry from what I see in them books but it
is dangerous. I do realise that. I try my best to be safe).
I was hinted at not to use any overly caustic hydroxides (I tend to like
using them or cigarette ash to neutralize weak acids). I liberally applied
some of the very dilute (only possibly since I know almost nothing about
chemistry) nitrogen like acid to the board. Let it sit for some time and it
lossened some of the solder joints. Sucked out some more solder.
I did not neutralize the solution and try to recover the sodium-bisulfate
because I read it was bad to do. I did dump cigarette ash into the solution
and after some time the purple turned less red (this might be because of the
rotten egg smell though).
If you feel that this is threatening please tell me and I will not attempt
this procedure again. Please do not call the DEA on me. I am just asking
questions and I am not sorry that certain words/works indicate illegal
activity.
Most of the solder is off the underside of this chip. The topside can be
left or dental tooled out - the chemical abrasion would probably damage the
important section of the legs. (i.e., the one leg that always seem to fall
out on me). I realise the board was designed so that the components would be
difficult for me to utilise with my current tools, but I believe the board
was headed for a trash can and to comply with my mother I cannot hold it as
is (removing the usable parts and storing the pcb seem logical to me.
Crushing it with a dump truck does not. Selling it on ebay does not.
Pleasing my mother does. Satisfying my curiosity is hard to determine - what
length? I tend to go overboard sometimes and end up attracting people who
arrest me without warrent while not wearing a police badge (it's just that
insulting)).
I'm not saying I perfect but please just cancel the message and I will find
something else to spend my time on.
Anycase - any ideas on how to remove this paint like substance so I can play
with a cool new hex invertor? Should I just continue and mix the existing
solder with my crud solder and flux the hell out of it and try one more
suck? This usually works well but these chips are resistant to movement. If
they are that dangerous how should I dispose of them? Bring them to the
police station?
My email address is broke or something but maybe I can catch a reply on the
newsgroup. I just would like to test these chips out and possibly build a
new parallel adaptor that uses a cable to plug into my computer. (The
wireless printers are really stupid. Plug a printer into the router or a
switch and you should be able to use it from anywhere in the world - using
microwaves instead seems like a bad move.)
The IEEE 1284 contains 18 twisted pair cables: signal to ground (probably to
make drugs - or maybe to provide a clean signal increasing the length of the
cable without bothering another peripheral several inches away (like another
printer)?) A compliant cable has two shielding layers.
I'm not building a centronics here; if you want to see what I would like to
print I will send you a copy. I do not currently have a working printer so
maybe I'll upgrade my pdf.
Crack on me all you want (that means make jokes about me or a cocaine base
so strong that you need ammonia and ether for it - either way it should
entertain someone somewhere);
I'm not using a firewire or a usb or sata when I have a 28 pin parallel
cable sitting in front of me. I will attempt to build and analog to digital
converter and send signals to my big computer from a little computer so I
can print the results of the small computer on my screen. I am not trying to
use the printer to get high or monitor the bad strobe lines. So drop a
fucking transformer line on my head - it may help me.
Sorry for the vulgarity - I don't have enough butane to fix the solution
Any honost reply is appreciated (actually any reply would be nice).
following message I will be mentioning some chemicals that are DEA active. I
would prefer a str8t forward discussion with these ``non-badge wearing
assholes'' and simply ask why they love to destroy furniture and touch the
male penis.
If this message is inappropriate please cancel it. I'm sure the DEA will be
at my door again tomorrow morning but they can only scare you and annoy you
(and send you to psychiatric hospitals.)
I have happened to come into possession of a electronics board that has some
interesting components that I would like to test out. I am under order from
my mother to clean up my shit (i.e., my bedroom not my heroin habit) and I
am behind schedule. It took me like 6 hours to try and chemically clean the
board of interest so that my solder tip would not violate the 8 second
solder rule or completely oxidize into another trip to another store to
purchase a $25 tip (this would take me about 1 week and I have less than
$25.00).
Anycase, I am interested in this ls04 (through the hole dip type thing hex
invertor or so). I believe the board has some ``iridite'' or something on
it. From my understanding it can be ``neutralized'' so that I can work out
the solder.
Anycase I tryied using citric acid (tang (this is a flavored beverage - I do
not know how to get high from tang)). I tried phospheric acid (The acid is
bad because I purchased it from a store. It is contains such little poison I
figured I'd give it a shot - dunno how the acid is colored pink though).
Then I tried the oxalic acid. I applied a liberal amount of
methly-ethly-ketones to the solder joints. The latter did loosen the solder.
I used my solder-sucker and was able to get a bit of the solder out. I
collect the solder on a magazine and place it in a pile on a paper plate
(maybe you can see how my cleaning creates more mess than anything else).
The remaining jointing material maybe (I am assuming) chromium and a silver
type crap (just enough to burn out the chip if I apply my iron to get the
topside solder to go plastic. I do not have wick and iron that will work
fast enough to remove the plastic - no I can't go to the store and buy the
equipment because it would be illegal and I am broke).
I figure I might put on the jackass hat and play chemist. I whipped up a
batch of sulferous solution (5 milliliters (just enough to turn out a 1/4
pound of crank this week with some tang on the side)). I added some sodium
hydrogen sulfide and tested it with a purple leaf (the leaf was not
marijuana). To me the solution seemed ``acidic''. I'm not a chemist but I
was hoping to make something that was non-corossive to tin and copper but
the bacon grease (i.e., my fingers and such touching the board) made me
nervouse so I decided to not try and fractionally sperate the sodium. I
applied some of the acid and it did loosen some of the solder and ate
through a scratch of paint.
I added some nitrogen (again a total of like 5 milliliters - the precursor
chemicals are on registry to my current place of residence (this doesn't
really seem like complicated chemistry from what I see in them books but it
is dangerous. I do realise that. I try my best to be safe).
I was hinted at not to use any overly caustic hydroxides (I tend to like
using them or cigarette ash to neutralize weak acids). I liberally applied
some of the very dilute (only possibly since I know almost nothing about
chemistry) nitrogen like acid to the board. Let it sit for some time and it
lossened some of the solder joints. Sucked out some more solder.
I did not neutralize the solution and try to recover the sodium-bisulfate
because I read it was bad to do. I did dump cigarette ash into the solution
and after some time the purple turned less red (this might be because of the
rotten egg smell though).
If you feel that this is threatening please tell me and I will not attempt
this procedure again. Please do not call the DEA on me. I am just asking
questions and I am not sorry that certain words/works indicate illegal
activity.
Most of the solder is off the underside of this chip. The topside can be
left or dental tooled out - the chemical abrasion would probably damage the
important section of the legs. (i.e., the one leg that always seem to fall
out on me). I realise the board was designed so that the components would be
difficult for me to utilise with my current tools, but I believe the board
was headed for a trash can and to comply with my mother I cannot hold it as
is (removing the usable parts and storing the pcb seem logical to me.
Crushing it with a dump truck does not. Selling it on ebay does not.
Pleasing my mother does. Satisfying my curiosity is hard to determine - what
length? I tend to go overboard sometimes and end up attracting people who
arrest me without warrent while not wearing a police badge (it's just that
insulting)).
I'm not saying I perfect but please just cancel the message and I will find
something else to spend my time on.
Anycase - any ideas on how to remove this paint like substance so I can play
with a cool new hex invertor? Should I just continue and mix the existing
solder with my crud solder and flux the hell out of it and try one more
suck? This usually works well but these chips are resistant to movement. If
they are that dangerous how should I dispose of them? Bring them to the
police station?
My email address is broke or something but maybe I can catch a reply on the
newsgroup. I just would like to test these chips out and possibly build a
new parallel adaptor that uses a cable to plug into my computer. (The
wireless printers are really stupid. Plug a printer into the router or a
switch and you should be able to use it from anywhere in the world - using
microwaves instead seems like a bad move.)
The IEEE 1284 contains 18 twisted pair cables: signal to ground (probably to
make drugs - or maybe to provide a clean signal increasing the length of the
cable without bothering another peripheral several inches away (like another
printer)?) A compliant cable has two shielding layers.
I'm not building a centronics here; if you want to see what I would like to
print I will send you a copy. I do not currently have a working printer so
maybe I'll upgrade my pdf.
Crack on me all you want (that means make jokes about me or a cocaine base
so strong that you need ammonia and ether for it - either way it should
entertain someone somewhere);
I'm not using a firewire or a usb or sata when I have a 28 pin parallel
cable sitting in front of me. I will attempt to build and analog to digital
converter and send signals to my big computer from a little computer so I
can print the results of the small computer on my screen. I am not trying to
use the printer to get high or monitor the bad strobe lines. So drop a
fucking transformer line on my head - it may help me.
Sorry for the vulgarity - I don't have enough butane to fix the solution
Any honost reply is appreciated (actually any reply would be nice).