Printer roller rejuvenator recommendation?

D

DaveC

Guest
Looking for roller rejuvenator that you can recommend (ie, have used). Not
Google results…


I’ve seen several brands, but it’s hard to judge from a distance.

One personal recommendation beats a hundred choices.

Thanks!
 
I have used Rubber Renue with success. Be careful and use with plenty of ventilation.

Dan
 
On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 2:00:14 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:
On 03/01/2016 9:47 AM, dansabrservices@yahoo.com wrote:
I have used Rubber Renue with success. Be careful and use with plenty of ventilation.

Dan


Rubber Renue is simply Acetone (with something added to slow down the
evaporation rate) as I recall.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Click to expand...

Nope.From the label:

dimethylbenzene
methyl salicylate

It is the Benzene that is very toxic and should be used with ventilation.

Dan
 
On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 9:02:42 AM UTC-8, DaveC wrote:
> Looking for roller rejuvenator that you can recommend (ie, have used).

From twenty years ago, fixing up impact printers...

I distrust brandnames... but start with a wipedown with isopropyl alcohol
(quick, removes ink) followed up with automotive brake fluid (which replaces
plasticizers and makes 'hard' rubber slightly more pliable). You
might want to leave the brake fluid on the roller for a few minutes.

Brake fluid is mainly heavy alcohol (glycerine), so it wipes off with
a damp cloth.
 
On 03/01/2016 9:47 AM, dansabrservices@yahoo.com wrote:
I have used Rubber Renue with success. Be careful and use with plenty of ventilation.

Dan
Click to expand...

Rubber Renue is simply Acetone (with something added to slow down the
evaporation rate) as I recall.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
On 03/01/2016 9:47 AM, dansabrservices@yahoo.com wrote:
I have used Rubber Renue with success. Be careful and use with plenty of ventilation.

Dan


Rubber Renue is simply Acetone (with something added to slow down the
evaporation rate) as I recall.
Click to expand...

According to the MSDS, MG's Rubber Renue is about 60-70% of a xylene
mixture, 20-30% ethylbenzene, and 15-30% methyl salicylate ("oil of
wintergreen"). The latter accounts for its distinctive odor.

I've found Rubber Renue to be pretty effective at removing the
hardened varnish-like layer on rubber rollers, and restoring "grab" to
rollers that are in reasonably decent shape. Really old or oxidized
rubber may be too far gone and may not "renew" properly... I don't
think Rubber Renue can soften up a whole roller that has hardened up
with age.

Agree, be careful using this stuff... the ingredients are
significantly toxic... best to use it outdoors, and wear good
chemical-resistant gloves (not rubber for tolerably obvious reasons;
nitrile looks like a better choice).
 
On 03/01/2016 11:45 AM, dansabrservices@yahoo.com wrote:
On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 2:00:14 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:
On 03/01/2016 9:47 AM, dansabrservices@yahoo.com wrote:
I have used Rubber Renue with success. Be careful and use with plenty of ventilation.

Dan


Rubber Renue is simply Acetone (with something added to slow down the
evaporation rate) as I recall.

John :-#)#


Nope.From the label:

dimethylbenzene
methyl salicylate

It is the Benzene that is very toxic and should be used with ventilation.

Dan
Click to expand...

Hi Dan,

Thanks! Appreciate the correction.

John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
A lot of years ago, too long to count, I was running a hazardous waste program.

We drummed up similar solvents for disposal.

But...........one of them ate my gloves. Turned out to be one of those roller restorers.
 
On Tue, 01 Mar 2016 09:02:35 -0800, DaveC <not@home.cow> wrote:

>Looking for roller rejuvenator that you can recommend (ie, have used).

Rubber Rejuvenator. My can is in the office so I'll post the brand
tomorrow. I think I bought it on eBay. MSDS:
<http://www.pressdown.net/email_brochures/msds/canada%20colours/Rubber%20Rejuvenator.pdf>

The stuff really stinks and attacks most everything it touches,
especially plastics. Use outdoors, downwind, with gloves, eye
protection, and breathing protection. I had a minor headache the last
time I used the stuff.

The problem with all these rubber resurrection compounds is that they
soften the outer surface of the roller. If you then run the roller in
a dirty machine, or with used paper, the dirt, crud, clay paper
coating, filth, etc will imbed itself into the rubber roller. The
effect is that the roller treatment works for about a week, and then
starts to slip again. Clean the paper path, clean the mating plastic
rollers, and clean the friction pads before using the stuff.

Also, the rubber resurrection compound won't do anything for a worn
roller. Eccentric rollers, such as the paper feed roller or those in
the paper tray, will wear on the leading edge. If worn, these rollers
are going to slip, no matter how well you clean the roller.

Rubber rollers also come in a variety of rubber harnesses. To measure
hardness, I bought a rubber hardness meter:
<http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=rubber+hardness+guage>
I measure the harness of a new roller, and compare it with whatever I
find in the printer. If the rubber has turned to mush or concrete, it
will be quite obvious. This hasn't been as useful as I originally
expected, but does help with Chinese clone rollers, which tend to have
random hardness (durometer) measurements. It's also quite useful for
buying automobile and bicycle tires. Harder rubber lasts longer.
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shore_durometer>



--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
"DaveC" wrote in message
news:0001HW.1C8602AB004FE09010FDF73CF@news.eternal-september.org...

Looking for roller rejuvenator that you can recommend (ie, have used). Not
Google results…


I’ve seen several brands, but it’s hard to judge from a distance.

One personal recommendation beats a hundred choices.

Thanks!
I used to repair VCR's and always used Platenclens to revive the pinch
rollers. Also works well on audio tape deck rollers and printer rollers.

kenny
 
DaveC <not@home.cow> wrote:
Looking for roller rejuvenator that you can recommend (ie, have used). Not
Google results?


I?ve seen several brands, but it?s hard to judge from a distance.

One personal recommendation beats a hundred choices.
Click to expand...

It depends on the rubber, but 303 aerospace protectant will soften and
swell some rubbers. They don't say it will, and it's not supposed to, but
it sure as heck does. The best part is my bottle of it has a cracked and
crazed label. Maybe the bottle should have been treated at the factory, or
it leaches though the bottle. Not really sure.

The beauty of it over solvents like turpentine is it has a very mild smell
and wipes up easily and isn't a hydrocarbon solvent.
 
On Tue, 1 Mar 2016 11:44:44 -0800, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave
Platt) wrote:

On 03/01/2016 9:47 AM, dansabrservices@yahoo.com wrote:
I have used Rubber Renue with success. Be careful and use with plenty of ventilation.

Dan


Rubber Renue is simply Acetone (with something added to slow down the
evaporation rate) as I recall.

According to the MSDS, MG's Rubber Renue is about 60-70% of a xylene
mixture, 20-30% ethylbenzene, and 15-30% methyl salicylate ("oil of
wintergreen"). The latter accounts for its distinctive odor.
Click to expand...

I use some cleaners that add a nasal desensitizer to "control" the
odor. It's something similar "lemon fresh" or some "air freshener"
that magically eliminates odors. What it really does is temporarily
take your sense of smell out of action. Try a blast of the stuff, and
then bite into some food full of aromatic ingredients. The food will
taste like cardboard.

I've found Rubber Renue to be pretty effective at removing the
hardened varnish-like layer on rubber rollers, and restoring "grab" to
rollers that are in reasonably decent shape.
Click to expand...

The surface "varnish" is a mixture of mostly toner (powdered plastic),
clay, and phosphors. The clay is the shiny coating found on most
better papers. The phosphor give the paper the bright white color.
You can see the phosphor with a UV flashlight. It's much like coating
the rubber roller with slippery polished plastic. Too bad that most
rubber rollers are not lighter color, or you would see the surface
crud on the rollers. I've often been tempted to add some powdered
phosphors to the toner cartridge so I can see with a UV lamp where the
stuff lands.

Really old or oxidized
rubber may be too far gone and may not "renew" properly... I don't
think Rubber Renue can soften up a whole roller that has hardened up
with age.
Click to expand...

Oxidation, usually caused by ozone, causes surface cracking.
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ozone_cracking>
Early laser printers had rather high voltage corona wires which would
produce prodigious amounts of ozone and do an impressive job of
destroying rubber parts. HPII and III printers were quite good at
producing rubber rollers with surface cracking. Some of the clone
roller vendors hid the problem by pre-cracking the surface of their
rollers. Todays selenium drums use a lower voltage roller instead of
a corona wire to charge the drum, which produces no ozone. However,
the laser beam is also a source of ozone. It zaps oxygen (O2)
molecules along its path to produce ozone (O3). LED printers
eliminate the laser, so no ozone.

Agree, be careful using this stuff... the ingredients are
significantly toxic... best to use it outdoors, and wear good
chemical-resistant gloves (not rubber for tolerably obvious reasons;
nitrile looks like a better choice).
Click to expand...

Nitrile (Nitrile Butadiene Rubber) is rubber.
<http://www.aps.anl.gov/Safety_and_Training/User_Safety/gloveselection.html>
<http://www.customadvanced.com/chemical-resistance-chart.html?chemical=Xylene&rubber=NBR>
<http://www.customadvanced.com/chemical-resistance-chart.html?chemical=Acetone&rubber=NBR>
Note that Nitrile is attacked by both acetone and xylene but is
slightly better than Latex (natural rubber) for xylene. The major
benefit is that Nitrile causes fewer allergic reactions. What you
want for solvent resistance is Viton or something with a silver foil
lining, such as Norfoil (used for Hazmat service) at $10/pair:
<https://www.b4brands.com/blog/latex-vs-nitrile-vs-vinyl-gloves-which-to-choose/>


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Thursday, March 3, 2016 at 10:44:03 AM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Note that Nitrile is attacked by both acetone and xylene but is
slightly better than Latex (natural rubber) for xylene. The major
benefit is that Nitrile causes fewer allergic reactions. What you
want for solvent resistance is Viton or something with a silver foil
lining, such as Norfoil (used for Hazmat service) at $10/pair:
Click to expand...

I have refreshed my memory on the time the rubber solvent ate the gloves.

(I found an old post where we discussed it.)

There were two of us dumping small containers into a drum. We thought it was all pretty much the same stuff, tiny bottles of solvents. The other guy was wearing latex gloves and I had on what we called triwall neoprene. Halfway through he let out a yell and ran for the emergency shower. His gloves had melted off and his hands were stinging. No real harm was done but it gave us a scare. When we checked that bottle it was the rubber rejuvenator. At any rate it didn't seem to bother my gloves but it destroyed his.
 
"Kenny" wrote in message
news:Q7CdnfstNZK9_EvLnZ2dnUU78W3NnZ2d@brightview.com...

"DaveC" wrote in message
news:0001HW.1C8602AB004FE09010FDF73CF@news.eternal-september.org...

Looking for roller rejuvenator that you can recommend (ie, have used). Not
Google results…


I’ve seen several brands, but it’s hard to judge from a distance.

One personal recommendation beats a hundred choices.

Thanks!
I used to repair VCR's and always used Platenclens to revive the pinch
rollers. Also works well on audio tape deck rollers and printer rollers.

kenny





I'll second that, it works well on pinch rollers anyway, and isn't
particularly noxious.

It also isn't an aerosol despite being in a suspicious container, it's a
pump thing.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Automation-Facilities-Platenclene-Cleaning-Spray/dp/B0012IKSHO


Gareth.
 
On Fri, 4 Mar 2016 05:37:53 -0800 (PST), Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>
wrote:

>I had on what we called triwall neoprene.

I couldn't find anything by that name, but did find these:
<http://www.mapa-pro.com/our-gloves/protections/disposable/p/g/trilites-994.html>
It's a mix of latex, neoprene, and nitrile. These might be the ones,
but the chemical chart at:
<http://www.mapa-pro.com/our-gloves/protections/disposable/p/g/trilites-983.html#chemical_chart>
doesn't show that it's resistant to any chlorinated hydrocarbon
solvents.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
I just rinse using soap and water for water-based rollers. For oil-based paint, I use some paint remover worked into the roller, and cleaned out with whatever solvent the paint remover said to use as a follow-up to using the remover on anything.

Frankly, it is a lot easier and not a lot more $$ to just get a new roller, when you consider the time and effort and $$ to buy the removal chemicals.
 
On Sat, 12 Mar 2016 19:28:10 -0800 (PST), hrhofmann@att.net wrote:

I just rinse using soap and water for water-based rollers.
(...)
Click to expand...

You missed the part where the OP mentioned that it's for rejuvenating
a PRINTER roller, not a paint roller.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top