Patriotic Poster...

J

John Larkin

Guest
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8oefk1v8avr6l7a/Probe_Slips.jpg?raw=1
 
On Friday, September 4, 2020 at 10:24:52 AM UTC+10, John Larkin wrote:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/8oefk1v8avr6l7a/Probe_Slips.jpg?raw=1

Not really worth posting.

--
Bill Sloman, Sydney
 
On Friday, 4 September 2020 01:24:52 UTC+1, John Larkin wrote:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/8oefk1v8avr6l7a/Probe_Slips.jpg?raw=1

Yep. Bring back valves I say! Pins spaced too far apart for that to even be a problem.
 
On Thursday, September 3, 2020 at 5:24:52 PM UTC-7, John Larkin wrote:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/8oefk1v8avr6l7a/Probe_Slips.jpg?raw=1

I just got a good deal on a DSO6034A, and the seller sweetened the deal
further by throwing in a pair of HP 1161As. I had never used those
before, and now I will never use any other passive probes ever again.
They seem to be an awfully well-kept secret.

-- john, KE5FX
 
On Thu, 3 Sep 2020 19:24:05 -0700 (PDT), \"John Miles, KE5FX\"
<jmiles@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, September 3, 2020 at 5:24:52 PM UTC-7, John Larkin wrote:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8oefk1v8avr6l7a/Probe_Slips.jpg?raw=1

I just got a good deal on a DSO6034A, and the seller sweetened the deal
further by throwing in a pair of HP 1161As. I had never used those
before, and now I will never use any other passive probes ever again.
They seem to be an awfully well-kept secret.

-- john, KE5FX

Why is that one so good?



--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

Science teaches us to doubt.

Claude Bernard
 
On Thu, 3 Sep 2020 18:49:31 -0700 (PDT), Tabby <tabbypurr@gmail.com>
wrote:

On Friday, 4 September 2020 01:24:52 UTC+1, John Larkin wrote:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8oefk1v8avr6l7a/Probe_Slips.jpg?raw=1

Yep. Bring back valves I say! Pins spaced too far apart for that to even be a problem.

We\'ve had some slips that wrecked some valuable first-article
engineering-test products, and some occasional blow-ups in the test
department, so I made that poster to hang a few places around here.

I use very sharp probes, and probe under my Mantis, and I\'ve learned
to be very careful. DVM probes start out pretty crude, and then wear
out to get round on the tip.

These help:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nf7kfj2zu9ku3il/Probes.jpg?raw=1

It\'s almost impossible to probe the really small stuff, like a US8.
 
On Friday, September 4, 2020 at 7:52:59 AM UTC-7,
> Why is that one so good?

They are much smaller than most OEM probes, they feel very precise in
use, and the cable is thinner and more flexible than any others I\'ve seen.
All of which makes slippage less likely. Their tips are also sharper, but
that\'s only one consideration. I just bought a couple more on eBay to go
with this pair.

The difference between the clunky 10073C/10073D probes that ship with
the scope and the 1161A is the difference between a K-car and a Cayman.

-- john, KE5FX
 
John Larkin <jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com> wrote:

On Thu, 3 Sep 2020 18:49:31 -0700 (PDT), Tabby <tabbypurr@gmail.com
wrote:

On Friday, 4 September 2020 01:24:52 UTC+1, John Larkin wrote:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8oefk1v8avr6l7a/Probe_Slips.jpg?raw=1

Yep. Bring back valves I say! Pins spaced too far apart for that to
even be a problem.

We\'ve had some slips that wrecked some valuable first-article
engineering-test products, and some occasional blow-ups in the test
department, so I made that poster to hang a few places around here.

I use very sharp probes, and probe under my Mantis, and I\'ve learned
to be very careful. DVM probes start out pretty crude, and then wear
out to get round on the tip.

These help:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nf7kfj2zu9ku3il/Probes.jpg?raw=1

It\'s almost impossible to probe the really small stuff, like a US8.

I solder sewing needles to the probe tip. Use a pair of locking pliers as
a heat sink to prevent melting the probe.

As well as piercing insulation, the needles allow probing very tiny
objects such as ic pins.

Got to watch out for getting stuck on the sharp needle.
 
Steve Wilson wrote:

====================
I solder sewing needles to the probe tip. Use a pair of locking pliers as
a heat sink to prevent melting the probe.

As well as piercing insulation, the needles allow probing very tiny
objects such as ic pins.

** I had imagined sewing needles were stainless steel so impossible to solder. Big surprise, the are nickel plated steel so solder very easily.

I expect pins and paper clips are too.

Cool tip - pun fully intended.....


..... Phil
 
On 9/5/2020 11:33 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
Steve Wilson wrote:

====================

I solder sewing needles to the probe tip. Use a pair of locking pliers as
a heat sink to prevent melting the probe.

As well as piercing insulation, the needles allow probing very tiny
objects such as ic pins.


** I had imagined sewing needles were stainless steel so impossible to solder. Big surprise, the are nickel plated steel so solder very easily.

I expect pins and paper clips are too.

Cool tip - pun fully intended.....
I use them too, but by gripping them with alligator clips. Good
to know that they can be soldered. Thanks to you both.
 
On Fri, 4 Sep 2020 23:03:51 -0700 (PDT), Phil Allison
<pallison49@gmail.com> wrote:

Steve Wilson wrote:

====================

I solder sewing needles to the probe tip. Use a pair of locking pliers as
a heat sink to prevent melting the probe.

As well as piercing insulation, the needles allow probing very tiny
objects such as ic pins.


** I had imagined sewing needles were stainless steel so impossible to solder. Big surprise, the are nickel plated steel so solder very easily.

I expect pins and paper clips are too.

It\'s easy to soft-solder stainless steel, but you must use the correct
flux. Ordinary tinners flux (zinc dissolved in hydrochloric acid)
from the hardware store will work. There are fluxes intended for
stainless steel, generally based on phosphoric acid. Often available
from industrial hardware and/or plumbing supply stores.

Mecanically clean the stainless steel surface first, before applying
flux.

Joe Gwinn
 
Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net> wrote:

<snip>

It\'s easy to soft-solder stainless steel, but you must use the correct
flux. Ordinary tinners flux (zinc dissolved in hydrochloric acid)
from the hardware store will work. There are fluxes intended for
stainless steel, generally based on phosphoric acid. Often available
from industrial hardware and/or plumbing supply stores.

Mecanically clean the stainless steel surface first, before applying
flux.

Excellent! FWIW, \"tinning flux\" works better as a search phrase for me.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-7-oz-Lead-Free-Tinning-Soldering-Flux-303742/100347302

Danke,

--
Don Kuenz KB7RPU
There was a young lady named Bright Whose speed was far faster than light;
She set out one day In a relative way And returned on the previous night.
 

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top