parts for old Scope iron

B

bruce varley

Guest
Hi, I have a great soldering iron, of a type that I haven't seen anywhere
else. It's been working for over 20 years, and still does the job, although
the elements are now getting so eroded that it probably won't be long before
I have to retire it. I'm wondering whether anyone might have some elements
lying around that they don't need.

It's a Scope iron, 240 volts with no transformer. Unfortunately the logo and
type number tag has dropped off so I can't provide those. The body is red,
with a neon in an oval shaped window indicating the heat cycle, and there
are black discs between the body and the barrel. The elements screw onto a
male thread, it comes with a small jar of brown goo for the thread. I
suspect it uses curie point magnetic control for temperature, there/s a
click every time it turns on or off.

Checked for Scope Laboratories website, no joy, I guess they're long
gone.......

Can anyone assist?
 
On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 22:10:25 +0800, "bruce varley" <bxvarley@weqstnet.com.au>
wrote:

Hi, I have a great soldering iron, of a type that I haven't seen anywhere
else. It's been working for over 20 years, and still does the job, although
the elements are now getting so eroded that it probably won't be long before
I have to retire it. I'm wondering whether anyone might have some elements
lying around that they don't need.

It's a Scope iron, 240 volts with no transformer. Unfortunately the logo and
type number tag has dropped off so I can't provide those. The body is red,
with a neon in an oval shaped window indicating the heat cycle, and there
are black discs between the body and the barrel. The elements screw onto a
male thread, it comes with a small jar of brown goo for the thread. I
suspect it uses curie point magnetic control for temperature, there/s a
click every time it turns on or off.

Checked for Scope Laboratories website, no joy, I guess they're long
gone.......
Bruce, it may be either the 25W or 40W unit currently available from (among
others) WES Components (www.wescomponents.com) as their Cat#MH25DF and MH40DF
respectively. They list spare tips but no other parts.
 
On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 22:10:25 +0800, "bruce varley"
<bxvarley@weqstnet.com.au> wrote:

Hi, I have a great soldering iron, of a type that I haven't seen anywhere
else. It's been working for over 20 years, and still does the job, although
the elements are now getting so eroded that it probably won't be long before
I have to retire it. I'm wondering whether anyone might have some elements
lying around that they don't need.

It's a Scope iron, 240 volts with no transformer. Unfortunately the logo and
type number tag has dropped off so I can't provide those. The body is red,
with a neon in an oval shaped window indicating the heat cycle, and there
are black discs between the body and the barrel. The elements screw onto a
male thread, it comes with a small jar of brown goo for the thread. I
suspect it uses curie point magnetic control for temperature, there/s a
click every time it turns on or off.

Checked for Scope Laboratories website, no joy, I guess they're long
gone.......

Can anyone assist?
I had one of those for a time in the late 70's/early 80s at a place I
worked back then.

Was a nice iron for the time, and as I recall the temperature was set
via an allen key screw in the side of the body. Inside the iron body
I vaguely recall the allen screw would set a gap in an aluminium block
with a slit cut in it. This would presumably bend as it heated and
act as a thermostat.

Simple and effective, and quite incredible to hear of one still going,
specially if it was used a lot in that time :)

I'm pretty sure that WES was selling these irons (the black and white
sketch in the catalog looked like this iron) in the 90's and may have
bits still. Whether they were the genuine scope or a chinese version
I dont know, but I think scope have closed shop some time ago now.
I still have one of the old 3.3v scope irons here - the big black
bakelite ones with the ring you pushed forward to apply power, and the
carbon element, though havent had need to use it for some years. You
could get a LOT of heat out of these FAST for the big jobs ;).
 
"bruce varley" <bxvarley@weqstnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:41d55ddc$1@quokka.wn.com.au...
Hi, I have a great soldering iron, of a type that I haven't seen anywhere
else. It's been working for over 20 years, and still does the job,
although
the elements are now getting so eroded that it probably won't be long
before
I have to retire it. I'm wondering whether anyone might have some elements
lying around that they don't need.

It's a Scope iron, 240 volts with no transformer. Unfortunately the logo
and
type number tag has dropped off so I can't provide those. The body is red,
with a neon in an oval shaped window indicating the heat cycle, and there
are black discs between the body and the barrel. The elements screw onto a
male thread, it comes with a small jar of brown goo for the thread.
Hey, does anyone know where I can get this Brown goo?
I rembember it was great for the scope irons, it kept the threads from
rusting up,, and it handled the heat.
I have looked through WES, but could not find it..
Any ideas??
Allan


I suspect it uses curie point magnetic control for temperature, there/s a
click every time it turns on or off.

Checked for Scope Laboratories website, no joy, I guess they're long
gone.......

Can anyone assist?
 
On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 13:55:57 +1000, KLR <kenreed@yahoo.com> wrote:

(snip)

I still have one of the old 3.3v scope irons here - the big black
bakelite ones with the ring you pushed forward to apply power, and the
carbon element, though havent had need to use it for some years. You
could get a LOT of heat out of these FAST for the big jobs ;).
The original beast - still have mine in the garage, handy for desoldering metal
shields without cooking everything. Also good for soldering gutters ;-)
 
Bruce; a Happy new Year to you.
I have some of the carbon tips that screw in at the front of the rod that
connects to the copper tip when the ON button is pressed. They are from a
transformer (240/5Vac) type Scope Iron that I threw out 30 years ago. You
can have them for the cost of postage. I live in Canberra.
Frank
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
"Allan" <allanaws@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:41d75596$0$41544$c30e37c6@ken-reader.news.telstra.net...
"bruce varley" <bxvarley@weqstnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:41d55ddc$1@quokka.wn.com.au...
Hi, I have a great soldering iron, of a type that I haven't seen anywhere
else. It's been working for over 20 years, and still does the job,
although
the elements are now getting so eroded that it probably won't be long
before
I have to retire it. I'm wondering whether anyone might have some
elements
lying around that they don't need.

It's a Scope iron, 240 volts with no transformer. Unfortunately the logo
and
type number tag has dropped off so I can't provide those. The body is
red,
with a neon in an oval shaped window indicating the heat cycle, and there
are black discs between the body and the barrel. The elements screw onto
a
male thread, it comes with a small jar of brown goo for the thread.

Hey, does anyone know where I can get this Brown goo?
I rembember it was great for the scope irons, it kept the threads from
rusting up,, and it handled the heat.
I have looked through WES, but could not find it..
Any ideas??
Allan


I suspect it uses curie point magnetic control for temperature, there/s a
click every time it turns on or off.

Checked for Scope Laboratories website, no joy, I guess they're long
gone.......

Can anyone assist?
 
On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 11:59:58 +1000, "Allan" <allanaws@hotmail.com>
wrote:

Hey, does anyone know where I can get this Brown goo?
I rembember it was great for the scope irons, it kept the threads from
rusting up,, and it handled the heat.
I have looked through WES, but could not find it..
Any ideas??
Allan
You should look for anti-seize paste such as from Prime Electronics
http://www.prime-electronics.com.au/aaa/frameset1.asp?Part=CHELASP02S

I don't know if this particular one is high temp but it will still
work.
 
"Ross Herbert" < wrote


You should look for anti-seize paste such as from Prime Electronics
http://www.prime-electronics.com.au/aaa/frameset1.asp?Part=CHELASP02S

I don't know if this particular one is high temp but it will still
work.


***If you dont know if it is high temperature then how can you say that the
paste will still work in a very high temperature application????

Why do some people let their brains out for the night when replying on this
news group?

Brian Goldsmith.
 
On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 07:53:45 GMT, "Brian Goldsmith"
<brian.goldsmith@nospam.echo1.com.au> wrote:

"Ross Herbert" < wrote


You should look for anti-seize paste such as from Prime Electronics
http://www.prime-electronics.com.au/aaa/frameset1.asp?Part=CHELASP02S

I don't know if this particular one is high temp but it will still
work.


***If you dont know if it is high temperature then how can you say that the
paste will still work in a very high temperature application????

Why do some people let their brains out for the night when replying on this
news group?

Brian Goldsmith.
I didn't mean to offend the intelligence of anyone reading my reply
Brian... I suppose I should have done a bit more research on the
product I linked to and thereby avoided your antagonistic response. As
it turns out the Electrolube product I nominated is specified to 1000
deg C so it is in fact high temperature.

http://www.electrolube.co.uk/docs/tds/AGC.pdf

Even so, the fact is that most anti-seize pastes are comprised of
microfine metal particles such as aluminium or copper suspended in a
fluid base of some sort. Even those pastes not specifically intended
for working above 700 deg C will prevent thread binding on a soldering
iron because when the fluid dries out the metal particles remain
trapped in the thread.

In the old days Hakko used to supply aluminium anti-seize paste for
their soldering products and even though it dried out under extreme
temperatures the aluminium particles positively prevented thread
binding.
 
On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 07:53:45 GMT, "Brian Goldsmith"
<brian.goldsmith@nospam.echo1.com.au> wrote:

"Ross Herbert" < wrote


You should look for anti-seize paste such as from Prime Electronics
http://www.prime-electronics.com.au/aaa/frameset1.asp?Part=CHELASP02S

I don't know if this particular one is high temp but it will still
work.


***If you dont know if it is high temperature then how can you say that the
paste will still work in a very high temperature application????

Why do some people let their brains out for the night when replying on this
news group?

Brian Goldsmith.

PS: Brian, you inferred a meaning to my reply which was not in fact
contained in it, so you are guilty of hastily jumping to a conclusion
without good cause.

I did not say that that I didn't know if it "would work" BECAUSE it
MAY NOT be specified for high temperatures. I simply said that I
didn't know if it was a high temperature paste, just in case the OP
was looking specifically for such a paste. I did say that even if the
product I linked to wasn't high temp, that it would still work to
prevent thread binding. I gave reasons why it would work in my other
response to your post.
 
KLR wrote:
I still have one of the old 3.3v scope irons here - the big black
bakelite ones with the ring you pushed forward to apply power, and the
carbon element, though havent had need to use it for some years. You
could get a LOT of heat out of these FAST for the big jobs ;).
I used to have a black bakelite one, but upgraded to the orange and red
version many moons ago - also have the little mini-scope as well, but never
use it.

Having sat unused for quite a long time, I now use the big scope quite often
for gluing together R/C battery packs and high-current connections - nothing
like having gobs of heat when you need it.

Russ.
 
Ross Herbert wrote:

Even so, the fact is that most anti-seize pastes are comprised of
microfine metal particles such as aluminium or copper suspended in a
fluid base of some sort. Even those pastes not specifically intended
for working above 700 deg C will prevent thread binding on a soldering
iron because when the fluid dries out the metal particles remain
trapped in the thread.

In the old days Hakko used to supply aluminium anti-seize paste for
their soldering products and even though it dried out under extreme
temperatures the aluminium particles positively prevented thread
binding.
Thanks for the info (ignoring the post that motivated it) it sounds like I
should get me some.

Russ.
 
"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:7jeft0ptcu69vo9dhqjsctsth2jgv5kch1@4ax.com...
On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 07:53:45 GMT, "Brian Goldsmith"
brian.goldsmith@nospam.echo1.com.au> wrote:


"Ross Herbert" < wrote


You should look for anti-seize paste such as from Prime Electronics
http://www.prime-electronics.com.au/aaa/frameset1.asp?Part=CHELASP02S

I don't know if this particular one is high temp but it will still
work.


***If you dont know if it is high temperature then how can you say that
the
paste will still work in a very high temperature application????

Why do some people let their brains out for the night when replying on
this
news group?

Brian Goldsmith.



PS: Brian, you inferred a meaning to my reply which was not in fact
contained in it, so you are guilty of hastily jumping to a conclusion
without good cause.

I did not say that that I didn't know if it "would work" BECAUSE it
MAY NOT be specified for high temperatures. I simply said that I
didn't know if it was a high temperature paste, just in case the OP
was looking specifically for such a paste. I did say that even if the
product I linked to wasn't high temp, that it would still work to
prevent thread binding. I gave reasons why it would work in my other
response to your post.
Now Now Girls,!!!!
Stop getting your knickers in a knot..!!!
And thanks for the info...
Gee some of you guys act like bitches on heat.!!!!!
 
"budgie" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:rptet0t0it3q8qkhjlrdec9oet1jdi7q7e@4ax.com...
On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 13:55:57 +1000, KLR <kenreed@yahoo.com> wrote:

(snip)

I still have one of the old 3.3v scope irons here - the big black
bakelite ones with the ring you pushed forward to apply power, and the
carbon element, though havent had need to use it for some years. You
could get a LOT of heat out of these FAST for the big jobs ;).

The original beast - still have mine in the garage, handy for desoldering
metal
shields without cooking everything. Also good for soldering gutters ;-)
Still use it for getting some Eht trannies out....
 
On Mon, 3 Jan 2005 00:11:46 +1000, "Allan" <allanaws@hotmail.com>
wrote:

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:7jeft0ptcu69vo9dhqjsctsth2jgv5kch1@4ax.com...
On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 07:53:45 GMT, "Brian Goldsmith"
brian.goldsmith@nospam.echo1.com.au> wrote:


"Ross Herbert" < wrote


You should look for anti-seize paste such as from Prime Electronics
http://www.prime-electronics.com.au/aaa/frameset1.asp?Part=CHELASP02S

I don't know if this particular one is high temp but it will still
work.


***If you dont know if it is high temperature then how can you say that
the
paste will still work in a very high temperature application????

Why do some people let their brains out for the night when replying on
this
news group?

Brian Goldsmith.



PS: Brian, you inferred a meaning to my reply which was not in fact
contained in it, so you are guilty of hastily jumping to a conclusion
without good cause.

I did not say that that I didn't know if it "would work" BECAUSE it
MAY NOT be specified for high temperatures. I simply said that I
didn't know if it was a high temperature paste, just in case the OP
was looking specifically for such a paste. I did say that even if the
product I linked to wasn't high temp, that it would still work to
prevent thread binding. I gave reasons why it would work in my other
response to your post.

Now Now Girls,!!!!
Stop getting your knickers in a knot..!!!
And thanks for the info...
Gee some of you guys act like bitches on heat.!!!!!
When I am trying to be helpful I don't take too kindly to antagonistic
responses, especially when I didn't make any incorrect statements as
Brian Goldsmith claimed I had. It was Brian who got it wrong, not me,
so I don't think I am being bitchy at all by responding to his post in
the manner I did. If he wanted to query what I was saying (because he
thought I was wrong) then he could have been more tactful in his
response, rather than being so antagonistic. I would have cheerfully
clarified it for him.
 

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