Park/Neutral switch

?

.

Guest
I was working on a Jeep the other day that would not turn over when the
ignition switch was turned. It turned out to be the park/neutral switch. The
first thing I noticed was that the grease inside the switch was quite tacky
or sticky. So much so that two spring loaded contacts were sticking and
wouldn't move back after being pushed in slightly. The switch has six screws
holding it together and costs around $210 to replace. The contacts have been
cleaned and I'm trying to find a suitable lubricant to replace the lubricant
that was in it.
..
I've noticed that white lithium grease will turn tacky or sticky, but don't
know why. I've talked to a couple of different mechanics and they recommend
an anti-seize/lubricant compound, although when asked, they couldn't tell me
if the anti-seize compound is suitable for electrical type contacts inside
the switch.

Is there a grease that is stable and suitable for lubricating moving parts
in a switch?

Any information on this would be greatly appreciated.

Ken
 
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 15:25:00 -0500, "." <t@donotemailme.com> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

Is there a grease that is stable and suitable for lubricating moving parts
in a switch?
http://www.electrolube.com/product/selector/clubedat.asp


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.
 
How about a silicone based lube.
i use a product called Super Lube.
works great for keeping moisture out
of the spark plug boot. helps the cable
come off easy next time... inside the
boot stays like a gel after 25000 miles.

I would say no to an anti seize. Many contain lead or copper or tin.
plus, it does become dry.


"." wrote:
I was working on a Jeep the other day that would not turn over when the
ignition switch was turned. It turned out to be the park/neutral switch. The
first thing I noticed was that the grease inside the switch was quite tacky
or sticky. So much so that two spring loaded contacts were sticking and
wouldn't move back after being pushed in slightly. The switch has six screws
holding it together and costs around $210 to replace. The contacts have been
cleaned and I'm trying to find a suitable lubricant to replace the lubricant
that was in it.
.
I've noticed that white lithium grease will turn tacky or sticky, but don't
know why. I've talked to a couple of different mechanics and they recommend
an anti-seize/lubricant compound, although when asked, they couldn't tell me
if the anti-seize compound is suitable for electrical type contacts inside
the switch.

Is there a grease that is stable and suitable for lubricating moving parts
in a switch?

Any information on this would be greatly appreciated.

Ken
 
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 15:25:00 -0500, "." <t@donotemailme.com> wrote:

I was working on a Jeep the other day that would not turn over when the
ignition switch was turned. It turned out to be the park/neutral switch. The
first thing I noticed was that the grease inside the switch was quite tacky
or sticky. So much so that two spring loaded contacts were sticking and
wouldn't move back after being pushed in slightly. The switch has six screws
holding it together and costs around $210 to replace. The contacts have been
cleaned and I'm trying to find a suitable lubricant to replace the lubricant
that was in it.
.
I've noticed that white lithium grease will turn tacky or sticky, but don't
know why. I've talked to a couple of different mechanics and they recommend
an anti-seize/lubricant compound, although when asked, they couldn't tell me
if the anti-seize compound is suitable for electrical type contacts inside
the switch.

Is there a grease that is stable and suitable for lubricating moving parts
in a switch?

Any information on this would be greatly appreciated.

Ken


I would clean it good and use the white lube that comes in the tub.
Don't use the spray. It's the same lube that the manufacturers use in
taillight sockets. You need to be careful some lube can attack the
plastic hsg's.

Tracy
 
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 15:25:00 -0500 "." <t@donotemailme.com> wrote:

I was working on a Jeep the other day that would not turn over when the
ignition switch was turned. It turned out to be the park/neutral switch. The
first thing I noticed was that the grease inside the switch was quite tacky
or sticky. So much so that two spring loaded contacts were sticking and
wouldn't move back after being pushed in slightly. The switch has six screws
holding it together and costs around $210 to replace. The contacts have been
cleaned and I'm trying to find a suitable lubricant to replace the lubricant
that was in it.
.
I've noticed that white lithium grease will turn tacky or sticky, but don't
know why. I've talked to a couple of different mechanics and they recommend
an anti-seize/lubricant compound, although when asked, they couldn't tell me
if the anti-seize compound is suitable for electrical type contacts inside
the switch.
Most all greases will eventually thicken because they consist of a
mizture of oil and a thickener which is chemically called a "soap."
Over time the oil separates out, which is exactly what it is supposed
to do to lubricate, since the soap thickener has no lubricating value.
The rate of separation varies widely as the viscosity of the oil and
the soap are changed. This is one of the main things that is changed
to make greases for different applications.

I would not use an antiseize, because most of these contain some form
of metal particles which might lead to an unintended connection when
the Jeep was in gear.

I see no reason why you should not just take the neutral safety switch
apart, clean out the old grease, and put in some fresh grease. Choose
a rather heavy grease, as that will separate more slowly.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
Where is this located? Under the Jeep on the side of the tranny? I had this
problem and it didn't happen all the time. I ended up repalceing the starter(
which I know wasn't hte problem) and I repalced the batter Terminals and so far
no problem But not sure enough.
 
in article 401259B5.6AAE40C6@isletech.net, Darrin at djnorman@isletech.net
wrote on 1/24/04 05:40:

How about a silicone based lube.
i use a product called Super Lube.
works great for keeping moisture out
of the spark plug boot. helps the cable
come off easy next time... inside the
boot stays like a gel after 25000 miles.

I would say no to an anti seize. Many contain lead or copper or tin.
plus, it does become dry.

We use SL-4 made by Standard Motor Products, available at parts houses,
but almost any silicone dielectric grease will work. Don't use too much of
anythhing: just a good coating.
Dave Cole
"." wrote:

I was working on a Jeep the other day that would not turn over when the
ignition switch was turned. It turned out to be the park/neutral switch. The
first thing I noticed was that the grease inside the switch was quite tacky
or sticky. So much so that two spring loaded contacts were sticking and
wouldn't move back after being pushed in slightly. The switch has six screws
holding it together and costs around $210 to replace. The contacts have been
cleaned and I'm trying to find a suitable lubricant to replace the lubricant
that was in it.
.
I've noticed that white lithium grease will turn tacky or sticky, but don't
know why. I've talked to a couple of different mechanics and they recommend
an anti-seize/lubricant compound, although when asked, they couldn't tell me
if the anti-seize compound is suitable for electrical type contacts inside
the switch.

Is there a grease that is stable and suitable for lubricating moving parts
in a switch?

Any information on this would be greatly appreciated.

Ken
 
"JohnAce" <johnace@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040124202701.11350.00000620@mb-m05.aol.com...
Where is this located? Under the Jeep on the side of the tranny? I had
this
problem and it didn't happen all the time. I ended up repalceing the
starter(
which I know wasn't hte problem) and I repalced the batter Terminals and
so far
no problem But not sure enough.
The switch is located on the right side (passenger side) of the
transmission. I initially thought there may be a bad connection at the +
battery terminal too. But I supplied +12V to the starter solenoid and the
jeep started up.

Ken
 
On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 01:15:05 -0500, "." <t@donotemailme.com> wrote:

"JohnAce" <johnace@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040124202701.11350.00000620@mb-m05.aol.com...
Where is this located? Under the Jeep on the side of the tranny? I had
this
problem and it didn't happen all the time. I ended up repalceing the
starter(
which I know wasn't hte problem) and I repalced the batter Terminals and
so far
no problem But not sure enough.

The switch is located on the right side (passenger side) of the
transmission. I initially thought there may be a bad connection at the +
battery terminal too. But I supplied +12V to the starter solenoid and the
jeep started up.

Ken

FYI, this is a very common problem. When I cleaned the NSS on my
wifes ZJ (backup lights stopped working), I used silicon dielectric
grease. I also used some sandpaper to clean up the traces and smooth
out a few worn grooves.


-Chris
 
<chris@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:sns6109q49a8n2svl27qp362odak7ar1n0@4ax.com...
On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 01:15:05 -0500, "." <t@donotemailme.com> wrote:


"JohnAce" <johnace@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040124202701.11350.00000620@mb-m05.aol.com...
Where is this located? Under the Jeep on the side of the tranny? I had
this
problem and it didn't happen all the time. I ended up repalceing the
starter(
which I know wasn't hte problem) and I repalced the batter Terminals
and
so far
no problem But not sure enough.

The switch is located on the right side (passenger side) of the
transmission. I initially thought there may be a bad connection at the +
battery terminal too. But I supplied +12V to the starter solenoid and the
jeep started up.

Ken


FYI, this is a very common problem. When I cleaned the NSS on my
wifes ZJ (backup lights stopped working), I used silicon dielectric
grease. I also used some sandpaper to clean up the traces and smooth
out a few worn grooves.
Where did you purchase the grease? How long has it been since you repaired
it?

Ken

 
On Sat, 24 Jan 2004 11:40:19 GMT Darrin <djnorman@isletech.net> wrote:

How about a silicone based lube.
i use a product called Super Lube.
works great for keeping moisture out
of the spark plug boot. helps the cable
come off easy next time... inside the
boot stays like a gel after 25000 miles.
It's great stuff in the right application, but I think in a place
where it is exposed to tiny sparks every time the switch is opened it
will break down into other silicone compounds which would be worse (as
in abrasive) than carbon breakdown products.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 09:23:12 -0500, "." <t@donotemailme.com> wrote:

chris@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:sns6109q49a8n2svl27qp362odak7ar1n0@4ax.com...
On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 01:15:05 -0500, "." <t@donotemailme.com> wrote:


"JohnAce" <johnace@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040124202701.11350.00000620@mb-m05.aol.com...
Where is this located? Under the Jeep on the side of the tranny? I had
this
problem and it didn't happen all the time. I ended up repalceing the
starter(
which I know wasn't hte problem) and I repalced the batter Terminals
and
so far
no problem But not sure enough.

The switch is located on the right side (passenger side) of the
transmission. I initially thought there may be a bad connection at the +
battery terminal too. But I supplied +12V to the starter solenoid and the
jeep started up.

Ken


FYI, this is a very common problem. When I cleaned the NSS on my
wifes ZJ (backup lights stopped working), I used silicon dielectric
grease. I also used some sandpaper to clean up the traces and smooth
out a few worn grooves.

Where did you purchase the grease? How long has it been since you repaired
it?

I have a big tube of Dow Corning silicone grease, normally meant for
electrical contacts, o-rings, etc. It's clear (semi cloudy I guess),
the same consistency as a typical wheel bearing grease, but
non-conductive. Don't recall where I got it, but you can find
something similar at an auto store or a hardware store.

I repaired the NSS about 3 years ago.

-Chris
 
<chris@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:bhq810tikqp0spfpsnrsnrd8up5mr4gnpl@4ax.com...
On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 09:23:12 -0500, "." <t@donotemailme.com> wrote:


chris@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:sns6109q49a8n2svl27qp362odak7ar1n0@4ax.com...
On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 01:15:05 -0500, "." <t@donotemailme.com> wrote:


"JohnAce" <johnace@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040124202701.11350.00000620@mb-m05.aol.com...
Where is this located? Under the Jeep on the side of the tranny? I
had
this
problem and it didn't happen all the time. I ended up repalceing the
starter(
which I know wasn't hte problem) and I repalced the batter Terminals
and
so far
no problem But not sure enough.

The switch is located on the right side (passenger side) of the
transmission. I initially thought there may be a bad connection at the
+
battery terminal too. But I supplied +12V to the starter solenoid and
the
jeep started up.

Ken


FYI, this is a very common problem. When I cleaned the NSS on my
wifes ZJ (backup lights stopped working), I used silicon dielectric
grease. I also used some sandpaper to clean up the traces and smooth
out a few worn grooves.

Where did you purchase the grease? How long has it been since you
repaired
it?


I have a big tube of Dow Corning silicone grease, normally meant for
electrical contacts, o-rings, etc. It's clear (semi cloudy I guess),
the same consistency as a typical wheel bearing grease, but
non-conductive. Don't recall where I got it, but you can find
something similar at an auto store or a hardware store.

I repaired the NSS about 3 years ago.
Thanks. Three years sounds encouraging.

Ken


 
"Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote in message
news:qll61095ouc0uqi6nlg3dh66q5bo5hetr2@4ax.com...
On Sat, 24 Jan 2004 11:40:19 GMT Darrin <djnorman@isletech.net> wrote:

How about a silicone based lube.
i use a product called Super Lube.
works great for keeping moisture out
of the spark plug boot. helps the cable
come off easy next time... inside the
boot stays like a gel after 25000 miles.

It's great stuff in the right application, but I think in a place
where it is exposed to tiny sparks every time the switch is opened it
will break down into other silicone compounds which would be worse (as
in abrasive) than carbon breakdown products.
Is there a product that you recommend that can be purchased at a car parts
store?

Ken

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 07:43:56 -0500 "." <t@donotemailme.com> wrote:

"Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote in message
news:qll61095ouc0uqi6nlg3dh66q5bo5hetr2@4ax.com...
On Sat, 24 Jan 2004 11:40:19 GMT Darrin <djnorman@isletech.net> wrote:

How about a silicone based lube.
i use a product called Super Lube.
works great for keeping moisture out
of the spark plug boot. helps the cable
come off easy next time... inside the
boot stays like a gel after 25000 miles.

It's great stuff in the right application, but I think in a place
where it is exposed to tiny sparks every time the switch is opened it
will break down into other silicone compounds which would be worse (as
in abrasive) than carbon breakdown products.

Is there a product that you recommend that can be purchased at a car parts
store?
Unless you already have some, just go and buy a very small container
of the heaviest grease they have. Wheel bearing grease, for example. I
don't think the choice is too important. Just buy a small amount of
something cheap.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 

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