Nooby question Panny TC-P65S1 plasma tv

I have a viera TC-P65S1 that is throwing a 9 blink code on the power LED. Until now I have been able to power it up by holding the power button for around 10 seconds but it isn't working anymore. From what I can find online, there's a problem with the A board. Is this something I can change with average mechanical and electrical skills? Could it be just a firmware problem?
Rich

 

Buddy of mine shows up with a car running terible, could not get out of its own way. He had taken it to Mr. Goodwrench and they ran the computer on it, the big one, not just the easy method. After scratching their heads for hours and charging him a diagnostic, they told him it needed a new engine.

I took a look at it and I had to scratch my head a bit as well. See the book said it did not have a timing chain, it supposedly had gears. Finally I told him to tear down for timing chain and guess what. He stopped by later with the pieces of what used to be the CHAIN tensioner.

Some sources say that code if for a short. Well there is a problem with that theory. They detect a short by one of the sources going low, not by actually monitoring the current. So you can't know if the problem is a short or a fualt of some other type in the power supply.

I have had two exact same model numbers of TVs be completely different inside. It is more likely this in serial number up to X, but after that is more likely that in the later sets. There is no substitute for actual troubleshooting, using the service AID - the trouble code(s). They do not actually diagnose themselves.

If you insist on fixing it yourself, replace the cheapest board first and move on up in price until you hit the right one.

 

On Sunday, October 20, 2013 10:28:01 PM UTC-7, Rich Haak wrote:

I have a viera TC-P65S1 that is throwing a 9 blink code on the power LED. Until now I have been able to power it up by holding the power button for around 10 seconds but it isn't working anymore. From what I can find online, there's a problem with the A board. Is this something I can change with average mechanical and electrical skills? Could it be just a firmware problem?

Rich

I've resurrected a lot of gear by replacing bad capacitors. I was looking on badcaps.net and someone said they "After replacing those stressed 'lytics," - your Panasonic model - all the high Voltage primaries - it still didn't work. But those weren't the bad caps. I've only seen ONE switching power supply that lost a high Voltage cap. The vast majority are in the control loop and the output caps. Often they are bulging but not always. If they ARE bulging they need to go. I've seen no surface mount caps that bulged but LOTS (LOTS!!) of bad ones. They are THE WORST for failing but are some of the easiest to replace. I use a cutter with a very thin nose and cut them out.. Do NOT cut at the bottom as you'll tear off the pads. Cut the cap at the seal crimp point and then remove the seal disc. Then clip off the wide part of the leads, remove the plastic base and un-solder the old flat leads.

Make sure you buy GOOD caps, not the everyday junk at the local supplier. Particularly for switching supplies, you want high ripple current (low ESR) and long life units. DigiKey's online catalog is easy to deal with and I buy LOTS of caps for work. Mouser is another good source.

Take pictures so you can get it re-assembled as it was.

G˛

 

[Rich Haak]

On Monday, October 21, 2013 10:54:19 PM UTC-4, stra...@yahoo.com wrote:

On Sunday, October 20, 2013 10:28:01 PM UTC-7, Rich Haak wrote:

I have a viera TC-P65S1 that is throwing a 9 blink code on the power LED. Until now I have been able to power it up by holding the power button for around 10 seconds but it isn't working anymore. From what I can find online, there's a problem with the A board. Is this something I can change with average mechanical and electrical skills? Could it be just a firmware problem?



Rich



I've resurrected a lot of gear by replacing bad capacitors. I was looking on badcaps.net and someone said they "After replacing those stressed 'lytics," - your Panasonic model - all the high Voltage primaries - it still didn't work. But those weren't the bad caps. I've only seen ONE switching power supply that lost a high Voltage cap. The vast majority are in the control loop and the output caps. Often they are bulging but not always. If they ARE bulging they need to go. I've seen no surface mount caps that bulged but LOTS (LOTS!!) of bad ones. They are THE WORST for failing but are some of the easiest to replace. I use a cutter with a very thin nose and cut them out. Do NOT cut at the bottom as you'll tear off the pads. Cut the cap at the seal crimp point and then remove the seal disc. Then clip off the wide part of the leads, remove the plastic base and un-solder the old flat leads.



Make sure you buy GOOD caps, not the everyday junk at the local supplier. Particularly for switching supplies, you want high ripple current (low ESR) and long life units. DigiKey's online catalog is easy to deal with and I buy LOTS of caps for work. Mouser is another good source.



Take pictures so you can get it re-assembled as it was.



G˛

We bought the TV from Best Buy. Extended warranty expired 1.5 years ago. From what I found online, the A board is bad. This is where the input wires plug into. I'm not sure where to buy it from without getting ripped off. Can someone point me in the right direction please? Geek squad price is $350 for the part plus $150 labor.

Also a way to look up the part number and price of the part would be a huge help.

Thanks! Rich

 

[Rich Haak]

On Sunday, November 17, 2013 6:20:06 PM UTC-5, Rich Haak wrote:

On Monday, October 21, 2013 10:54:19 PM UTC-4, stra...@yahoo.com wrote:

On Sunday, October 20, 2013 10:28:01 PM UTC-7, Rich Haak wrote:



I have a viera TC-P65S1 that is throwing a 9 blink code on the power LED. Until now I have been able to power it up by holding the power button for around 10 seconds but it isn't working anymore. From what I can find online, there's a problem with the A board. Is this something I can change with average mechanical and electrical skills? Could it be just a firmware problem?







Rich







I've resurrected a lot of gear by replacing bad capacitors. I was looking on badcaps.net and someone said they "After replacing those stressed 'lytics," - your Panasonic model - all the high Voltage primaries - it still didn't work. But those weren't the bad caps. I've only seen ONE switching power supply that lost a high Voltage cap. The vast majority are in the control loop and the output caps. Often they are bulging but not always. If they ARE bulging they need to go. I've seen no surface mount caps that bulged but LOTS (LOTS!!) of bad ones. They are THE WORST for failing but are some of the easiest to replace. I use a cutter with a very thin nose and cut them out. Do NOT cut at the bottom as you'll tear off the pads. Cut the cap at the seal crimp point and then remove the seal disc. Then clip off the wide part of the leads, remove the plastic base and un-solder the old flat leads..







Make sure you buy GOOD caps, not the everyday junk at the local supplier. Particularly for switching supplies, you want high ripple current (low ESR) and long life units. DigiKey's online catalog is easy to deal with and I buy LOTS of caps for work. Mouser is another good source.







Take pictures so you can get it re-assembled as it was.







G˛



We bought the TV from Best Buy. Extended warranty expired 1.5 years ago. From what I found online, the A board is bad. This is where the input wires plug into. I'm not sure where to buy it from without getting ripped off. Can someone point me in the right direction please? Geek squad price is $350 for the part plus $150 labor.



Also a way to look up the part number and price of the part would be a huge help.



Thanks! Rich

TV is working again! I found the Main (A) board online for $229 which includes a $50 refund when I return the bad one. So net cost with shipping is around $190. I was amazed how scarce this board is for a 4 year old TV. Just about everyone was out of stock. I assume these are refurbs too. I plan to get another one to have as a spare as it seems this is a common issue with this model.