Need Help Identifying Ceramic Capacitor...

W

World wide137

Guest
Hello Folks. I need some help in identifying a ceramic capacitor on an RF signal generator from the 50\'s. The capacitor is off the power supply. The shape is a circular disk about 1cm in diameter with the following markings - HI-Q 2X .01. Any help greatly appreciate.
 
worldw...@gmail.com wrote:

==========================
> Hello Folks. I need some help in identifying a ceramic capacitor on an RF signal generator from the 50\'s.
The capacitor is off the power supply. The shape is a circular disk about 1cm in diameter with the following
markings - HI-Q 2X .01.

** Is is dual cap with 3 legs like this one ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1960s-Ceramic-Disk-Circle-D-Capacitor-2x-01-uf-1-4kv-Guitar-Tone-02-/123856474984

A pic would be useful.


...... Phil
 
Thanks Phil. The capacitor has two legs, here\'s a picture of it. -Norm

http://printque.us/capacitor.png

On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 9:35:21 PM UTC-5, palli...@gmail.com wrote:
worldw...@gmail.com wrote:

==========================
Hello Folks. I need some help in identifying a ceramic capacitor on an RF signal generator from the 50\'s.
The capacitor is off the power supply. The shape is a circular disk about 1cm in diameter with the following
markings - HI-Q 2X .01.
** Is is dual cap with 3 legs like this one ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1960s-Ceramic-Disk-Circle-D-Capacitor-2x-01-uf-1-4kv-Guitar-Tone-02-/123856474984

A pic would be useful.


..... Phil
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Phil. The capacitor has two legs, here\'s a picture of it. -Norm

http://printque.us/capacitor.png

On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 9:35:21 PM UTC-5, palli...@gmail.com wrote:
worldw...@gmail.com wrote:

==========================
Hello Folks. I need some help in identifying a ceramic capacitor on an RF signal generator from the 50\'s.
The capacitor is off the power supply. The shape is a circular disk about 1cm in diameter with the following
markings - HI-Q 2X .01.
** Is is dual cap with 3 legs like this one ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1960s-Ceramic-Disk-Circle-D-Capacitor-2x-01-uf-1-4kv-Guitar-Tone-02-/123856474984

A pic would be useful.


..... Phil
Click to expand...
 
I should mention that this capacitor is in a Precision signal generator, model E-200-C.
 
worldw...@gmail.com wrote:

=================================
> I should mention that this capacitor is in a Precision signal generator, model E-200-C.

That cap is in the AC supply circuit - right?
See bottom of this page:

https://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=363692

So it\'s a high voltage, ceramic cap.

Good replacement would be a 0.01uF, 2kV ceramic like this:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/CK45-E3DD103ZYVNA/?qs=eSfX1CQlHqqfWLOcs5KSTQ%3D%3D

Many other sources.


.......... Phil
 
worldw...@gmail.com wrote:

=================================
> I should mention that this capacitor is in a Precision signal generator, model E-200-C.

That cap is in the AC supply circuit - right?
See bottom of this page:

https://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=363692

So it\'s a high voltage, ceramic cap.

Good replacement would be a 0.01uF, 2kV ceramic like this:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/CK45-E3DD103ZYVNA/?qs=eSfX1CQlHqqfWLOcs5KSTQ%3D%3D

Many other sources.


.......... Phil
 
Phil Allison wrote:
=================
Good replacement would be a 0.01uF, 2kV ceramic like this:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/CK45-E3DD103ZYVNA/?qs=eSfX1CQlHqqfWLOcs5KSTQ%3D%3D

Many other sources.
Click to expand...

** Be nice idea to fit a 3- core power lead and earth the thing while you are at it.



...... Phil
 
That looks very much like an older ceramic safety capacitor. 2X today would be written as X2. That being \"X-type, Ceramic Class 2\". Their purpose is to minimize EMI/RFI interference - something that makes sense in an SG.

The X means that it is to go between the line-cord leads (hot and neutral). 2X means it will tolerate a peak voltage pulse of 2,500 while in operation.

More explanation here: https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/safety-capacitor-class-x-and-class-y-capacitors/

Mouser-available Vishay-made device here: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/427/564r565r-1762222.pdf

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
 
Phil - Appreciate the input and link to Mouser. I\'ve contemplated replacing with a 3-prong cord but there seems to be some who say a two prong is better for a sound generator as to not pick up any interference off the ground from other devices. I\'m a hobbyist so my depth of knowledge isn\'t so deep as to accept or refute their claims so I\'ve just left it for now. Cheers. -Norm

On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 1:00:06 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Phil Allison wrote:
================> > Good replacement would be a 0.01uF, 2kV ceramic like this:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/CK45-E3DD103ZYVNA/?qs=eSfX1CQlHqqfWLOcs5KSTQ%3D%3D

Many other sources.
** Be nice idea to fit a 3- core power lead and earth the thing while you are at it.



..... Phil
Click to expand...
 
Phil - Appreciate the input and link to Mouser. I\'ve contemplated replacing with a 3-prong cord but there seems to be some who say a two prong is better for a sound generator as to not pick up any interference off the ground from other devices. I\'m a hobbyist so my depth of knowledge isn\'t so deep as to accept or refute their claims so I\'ve just left it for now. Cheers. -Norm

On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 1:00:06 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Phil Allison wrote:
================> > Good replacement would be a 0.01uF, 2kV ceramic like this:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/CK45-E3DD103ZYVNA/?qs=eSfX1CQlHqqfWLOcs5KSTQ%3D%3D

Many other sources.
** Be nice idea to fit a 3- core power lead and earth the thing while you are at it.



..... Phil
Click to expand...
 
www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=363692

https://www.byan-roper.org/steve/_Media/e-200-schematic.jpeg

Might help in the restoration process.

On the 2/3 conductor line cord: If you look at the schematic - there are two (2) 0.01uF safety caps in series with a ground between them - which is the same common ground throughout the system. And, by the way, those are X-types as the are between the hot and the neutral. I will not presume that the common ground is also the case even though that is both very likely and common, but you can check that easily yourself - is there continuity between the case and the chassis? If so, go ahead and install a 3-wire cord, grounding to the case. If not do some more checks before going to three wires so that you do not cause any damage. Also, when the device is in operation, is there any leakage (VOM on AC, case-to-good-ground: Any voltage showing?)?

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
 
www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=363692

https://www.byan-roper.org/steve/_Media/e-200-schematic.jpeg

Might help in the restoration process.

On the 2/3 conductor line cord: If you look at the schematic - there are two (2) 0.01uF safety caps in series with a ground between them - which is the same common ground throughout the system. And, by the way, those are X-types as the are between the hot and the neutral. I will not presume that the common ground is also the case even though that is both very likely and common, but you can check that easily yourself - is there continuity between the case and the chassis? If so, go ahead and install a 3-wire cord, grounding to the case. If not do some more checks before going to three wires so that you do not cause any damage. Also, when the device is in operation, is there any leakage (VOM on AC, case-to-good-ground: Any voltage showing?)?

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
 
Peter - Thank you for the explanation, I had a heck of a time looking for this on Google. I guess, I wasn\'t sure on how to search for it. Searching for what was printed on the actual capacitor did not bring up much. Here is a picture of the whole thing. This capacitor is run across the the two chokes. Cheers. -Norm

http://printque.us/IMG_5103.jpg


On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 8:47:57 AM UTC-5, Peter W. wrote:
That looks very much like an older ceramic safety capacitor. 2X today would be written as X2. That being \"X-type, Ceramic Class 2\". Their purpose is to minimize EMI/RFI interference - something that makes sense in an SG.

The X means that it is to go between the line-cord leads (hot and neutral). 2X means it will tolerate a peak voltage pulse of 2,500 while in operation.

More explanation here: https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/safety-capacitor-class-x-and-class-y-capacitors/

Mouser-available Vishay-made device here: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/427/564r565r-1762222.pdf

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Click to expand...
 
Peter - Thank you for the explanation, I had a heck of a time looking for this on Google. I guess, I wasn\'t sure on how to search for it. Searching for what was printed on the actual capacitor did not bring up much. Here is a picture of the whole thing. This capacitor is run across the the two chokes. Cheers. -Norm

http://printque.us/IMG_5103.jpg


On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 8:47:57 AM UTC-5, Peter W. wrote:
That looks very much like an older ceramic safety capacitor. 2X today would be written as X2. That being \"X-type, Ceramic Class 2\". Their purpose is to minimize EMI/RFI interference - something that makes sense in an SG.

The X means that it is to go between the line-cord leads (hot and neutral). 2X means it will tolerate a peak voltage pulse of 2,500 while in operation.

More explanation here: https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/safety-capacitor-class-x-and-class-y-capacitors/

Mouser-available Vishay-made device here: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/427/564r565r-1762222.pdf

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Click to expand...
 
Norm:

A few things:

a) There are many versions of this unit over the years, so the differences between the schematic and what you have are no surprise.
b) There is no reason to remove the tubular ceramic caps - I believe that the restoration page does mention that. They tend to be pretty stable over the years.
c) I would restore to the schematic as shown: http://www.byan-roper.org/steve/_Media/img_5750_med.jpeg
d) I see where the ground lug is riveted to the copper cover - and that the cover appears to be sheet-metal-screwed to the case. If so, a 3-wire cord is good, with the ground wire going to the center lug of the three.

Take your time. That is a \'popular\' unit within the hobby, and worth the effort if you want vintage service gear to go with the vintage radios.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
 
You are correct, Peter, that is how the copper cover interacts with the case. There has indeed been several updates to this model, I have 4 different schematics, all similar but slightly different. Of the four, none matches my version perfectly. Thanks again for you input, they\'ve been very helpful. Cheers. -Norm

On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 9:48:18 AM UTC-5, Peter W. wrote:
Norm:

A few things:

a) There are many versions of this unit over the years, so the differences between the schematic and what you have are no surprise.
b) There is no reason to remove the tubular ceramic caps - I believe that the restoration page does mention that. They tend to be pretty stable over the years.
c) I would restore to the schematic as shown: http://www.byan-roper.org/steve/_Media/img_5750_med.jpeg
d) I see where the ground lug is riveted to the copper cover - and that the cover appears to be sheet-metal-screwed to the case. If so, a 3-wire cord is good, with the ground wire going to the center lug of the three.

Take your time. That is a \'popular\' unit within the hobby, and worth the effort if you want vintage service gear to go with the vintage radios.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Click to expand...
 
You are correct, Peter, that is how the copper cover interacts with the case. There has indeed been several updates to this model, I have 4 different schematics, all similar but slightly different. Of the four, none matches my version perfectly. Thanks again for you input, they\'ve been very helpful. Cheers. -Norm

On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 9:48:18 AM UTC-5, Peter W. wrote:
Norm:

A few things:

a) There are many versions of this unit over the years, so the differences between the schematic and what you have are no surprise.
b) There is no reason to remove the tubular ceramic caps - I believe that the restoration page does mention that. They tend to be pretty stable over the years.
c) I would restore to the schematic as shown: http://www.byan-roper.org/steve/_Media/img_5750_med.jpeg
d) I see where the ground lug is riveted to the copper cover - and that the cover appears to be sheet-metal-screwed to the case. If so, a 3-wire cord is good, with the ground wire going to the center lug of the three.

Take your time. That is a \'popular\' unit within the hobby, and worth the effort if you want vintage service gear to go with the vintage radios.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Click to expand...
 
worldw...@gmail.com wrote:

========================
> Phil - Appreciate the input and link to Mouser. I\'ve contemplated replacing with a 3-prong cord but
there seems to be some who say a two prong is better for a sound generator as to not pick up any
interference off the ground from other devices. I\'m a hobbyist so my depth of knowledge isn\'t so
deep as to accept or refute their claims so I\'ve just left it for now. Cheers. -Norm

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
** Warning:

The case of the unit will be floating at * 60volts AC* with no safety ground attached.

That AC voltage ( with plenty of noise) will be coupled via 0.02 uF into the ground of any earthed reciever.
Likely make it hum and buzz audibly.

Your RF gene has only a 400Hz output for convenience.

Earthing it is way safer.


....... Phil
 
Peter Wanker Rides Again:

==========================> www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=363692
https://www.byan-roper.org/steve/_Media/e-200-schematic.jpeg

On the 2/3 conductor line cord: If you look at the schematic - there are two (2) 0.01uF safety caps in series with a ground between them - which is the same common ground throughout the system. And, by the way, those are X-types as the are between the hot and the neutral.
Click to expand...

** Weicky has wanked himself blind.

Those two cap are *OBVIOUSLY* connected from hot AC wires to ground.

Y class caps with not common back in the day.

....... Phil
 
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