Mouse Refurbish

[MouseUser]

My favorite mouse is acting up.
Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at all.

I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.

Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least at a
reasonable price).

Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).

Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ?
Suggestions ?
Links please !

Microsoft Notebook Optical Mouse 3000

Thanks !

 

[J. P. Gilliver (John)]

In message <qntsqq$1ihk$1@adenine.netfront.net>, MouseUser
<MouseUser@MouseUser.com> writes:

My favorite mouse is acting up.
Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at all.

I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.

Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least at a
reasonable price).

Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).

Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ?
Suggestions ?
Links please !

[]
My first thought was faulty microswitches. But it seems unlikely they've
both failed at once - or is that not the case, did one fail (or become
unreliable) before the other? If both at once, then it might not be the
switches. I'd suspect the chip in that case, which is probably
unidentifiable (and unobtainable if it is) - though it'd be worth
looking for broken tracks on the PCB.

Does it "feel" wrong - do the "buttons" make a proper click?

Replacing the microswitches shouldn't be that difficult for anyone
capable of reasonably fine soldering, if that _is_ the cause. What is
likely to be more difficult is (a) getting the mouse apart enough to get
at them, then (b) finding ones similar enough to substitute.

If it's a three-button mouse, the middle one (assuming it's not
mechanically different!) might be a source for one, as it tends to be
used less. Other scrap mice might be another source. Failing those, you
should be able to find a fair selection of microswitches in most of the
electronic component retailer's online "catalogues" - RS Components,
Farnell, Newark, CSC, Digiguide (these may or may not be still in
business - I've been out of electronics for a couple of years) - once
you've got one in your hand to look at (and measure). The better
distributors will have mechanical drawings near their listings; if not,
they should at least tell you the manufacturer's name and part number of
the ones they sell, and you should find such drawings at the
manufacturers' websites. You'll also need to know if they're
press-to-make or press-to-break; I'd assume the former, but check with a
continuity beeper once you've unsoldered. (Unless you can make out the
part number on them.)

It _may_ be possible to dismantle and repair the switches themselves,
but I'd not like to try.
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/<1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

"Bother," said the Borg, "we assimilated a Pooh."

 

[Rene Lamontagne]

On 2019-10-12 8:19 p.m., J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:

In message <qntsqq$1ihk$1@adenine.netfront.net>, MouseUser
MouseUser@MouseUser.com> writes:
My favorite mouse is acting up.
Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at all.

I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.

Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least at
a reasonable price).

Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).

Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ?
Suggestions ?
Links please !
[]
My first thought was faulty microswitches. But it seems unlikely they've
both failed at once - or is that not the case, did one fail (or become
unreliable) before the other? If both at once, then it might not be the
switches. I'd suspect the chip in that case, which is probably
unidentifiable (and unobtainable if it is) - though it'd be worth
looking for broken tracks on the PCB.

Does it "feel" wrong - do the "buttons" make a proper click?

Replacing the microswitches shouldn't be that difficult for anyone
capable of reasonably fine soldering, if that _is_ the cause. What is
likely to be more difficult is (a) getting the mouse apart enough to get
at them, then (b) finding ones similar enough to substitute.

If it's a three-button mouse, the middle one (assuming it's not
mechanically different!) might be a source for one, as it tends to be
used less. Other scrap mice might be another source. Failing those, you
should be able to find a fair selection of microswitches in most of the
electronic component retailer's online "catalogues" - RS Components,
Farnell, Newark, CSC, Digiguide (these may or may not be still in
business - I've been out of electronics for a couple of years) - once
you've got one in your hand to look at (and measure). The better
distributors will have mechanical drawings near their listings; if not,
they should at least tell you the manufacturer's name and part number of
the ones they sell, and you should find such drawings at the
manufacturers' websites. You'll also need to know if they're
press-to-make or press-to-break; I'd assume the former, but check with a
continuity beeper once you've unsoldered. (Unless you can make out the
part number on them.)

It _may_ be possible to dismantle and repair the switches themselves,
but I'd not like to try.

Not sure where you live, but I find it on Amazon.com for about $11.00.
Much easier then trying to repair one. Also there are literally hundreds
of different ones to choose from, Surely you can find a suitable
lookalike replacement.

Rene


Rene

 

[Rene Lamontagne]

On 2019-10-12 8:48 p.m., Rene Lamontagne wrote:

On 2019-10-12 8:19 p.m., J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
In message <qntsqq$1ihk$1@adenine.netfront.net>, MouseUser
MouseUser@MouseUser.com> writes:
My favorite mouse is acting up.
Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at
all.

I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.

Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least at
a reasonable price).

Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).

Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ?
Suggestions ?
Links please !
[]
My first thought was faulty microswitches. But it seems unlikely
they've both failed at once - or is that not the case, did one fail
(or become unreliable) before the other? If both at once, then it
might not be the switches. I'd suspect the chip in that case, which is
probably unidentifiable (and unobtainable if it is) - though it'd be
worth looking for broken tracks on the PCB.

Does it "feel" wrong - do the "buttons" make a proper click?

Replacing the microswitches shouldn't be that difficult for anyone
capable of reasonably fine soldering, if that _is_ the cause. What is
likely to be more difficult is (a) getting the mouse apart enough to
get at them, then (b) finding ones similar enough to substitute.

If it's a three-button mouse, the middle one (assuming it's not
mechanically different!) might be a source for one, as it tends to be
used less. Other scrap mice might be another source. Failing those,
you should be able to find a fair selection of microswitches in most
of the electronic component retailer's online "catalogues" - RS
Components, Farnell, Newark, CSC, Digiguide (these may or may not be
still in business - I've been out of electronics for a couple of
years) - once you've got one in your hand to look at (and measure).
The better distributors will have mechanical drawings near their
listings; if not, they should at least tell you the manufacturer's
name and part number of the ones they sell, and you should find such
drawings at the manufacturers' websites. You'll also need to know if
they're press-to-make or press-to-break; I'd assume the former, but
check with a continuity beeper once you've unsoldered. (Unless you can
make out the part number on them.)

It _may_ be possible to dismantle and repair the switches themselves,
but I'd not like to try.

Not sure where you live, but I find it on Amazon.com for about $11.00.
Much easier then trying to repair one. Also there are literally hundreds
of different ones to choose from, Surely you can find a suitable
lookalike replacement.

Rene


Rene

I should mention also that battery life is really not an issue anymore,
I have a Logitech M510 that goes a year on batteries, My new Logitech
M705 is advertized to go 3 years on a pair of alkaline AA cells.

Rene

 

[David E. Ross]

On 10/12/2019 5:57 PM, MouseUser wrote:

My favorite mouse is acting up.
Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at all.

I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.

Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least at a
reasonable price).

Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).

Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ?
Suggestions ?
Links please !

Microsoft Notebook Optical Mouse 3000

Thanks !

The Logitech M100 mouse is still available for $9.99 plus tax and
shipping. It is a corded mouse with a USB connector.

I found this to be quite durable. I bought mine 5 years ago and it
still works well. My wife has a similar Logitech mouse that is even
older.

See <https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/mouse-m100?crid=7>.

--
David E. Ross
<http://www.rossde.com/>

Immigration authorities arrested 680 undocumented aliens in meat
processing facilities in Mississippi. Employing someone who is not
legally in the U.S. is also illegal. How many of the EMPLOYERS are
being criminally charged? If none, why not?

 

[Paul in Houston TX]

MouseUser wrote:

My favorite mouse is acting up.
Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at all.

I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.

Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least at a
reasonable price).

Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).

Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ?
Suggestions ?
Links please !

Microsoft Notebook Optical Mouse 3000

Thanks !

It's easy to refurbish mice.
I refurb all my mice when they go bad because I like the ones I have.
Take it completely apart, clean the optics, remove the micro switches,
and solder in new ones. The tails break conductors near where they go
into the mouse so cut off the tail about 1" near the entry point on the
mouse and re-solder to the internal plug. Use heat shrink on the solder
joints. If the plastic tabs that push the micro switches are worn down
then use your soldering iron to add more of the same type of plastic.
It will be an ABS mix. Should take no more than 20 minutes.

 

[Big Al]

On 10/12/19 9:59 PM, Rene Lamontagne wrote:

On 2019-10-12 8:48 p.m., Rene Lamontagne wrote:
On 2019-10-12 8:19 p.m., J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
In message <qntsqq$1ihk$1@adenine.netfront.net>, MouseUser
MouseUser@MouseUser.com> writes:
My favorite mouse is acting up.
Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at
all.

I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.

Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least
at a reasonable price).

Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).

Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ?
Suggestions ?
Links please !
[]
My first thought was faulty microswitches. But it seems unlikely
they've both failed at once - or is that not the case, did one fail
(or become unreliable) before the other? If both at once, then it
might not be the switches. I'd suspect the chip in that case, which
is probably unidentifiable (and unobtainable if it is) - though it'd
be worth looking for broken tracks on the PCB.

Does it "feel" wrong - do the "buttons" make a proper click?

Replacing the microswitches shouldn't be that difficult for anyone
capable of reasonably fine soldering, if that _is_ the cause. What is
likely to be more difficult is (a) getting the mouse apart enough to
get at them, then (b) finding ones similar enough to substitute.

If it's a three-button mouse, the middle one (assuming it's not
mechanically different!) might be a source for one, as it tends to be
used less. Other scrap mice might be another source. Failing those,
you should be able to find a fair selection of microswitches in most
of the electronic component retailer's online "catalogues" - RS
Components, Farnell, Newark, CSC, Digiguide (these may or may not be
still in business - I've been out of electronics for a couple of
years) - once you've got one in your hand to look at (and measure).
The better distributors will have mechanical drawings near their
listings; if not, they should at least tell you the manufacturer's
name and part number of the ones they sell, and you should find such
drawings at the manufacturers' websites. You'll also need to know if
they're press-to-make or press-to-break; I'd assume the former, but
check with a continuity beeper once you've unsoldered. (Unless you
can make out the part number on them.)

It _may_ be possible to dismantle and repair the switches themselves,
but I'd not like to try.

Not sure where you live, but I find it on Amazon.com for about $11.00.
Much easier then trying to repair one. Also there are literally
hundreds of different ones to choose from, Surely you can find a
suitable lookalike replacement.

Rene


Rene



I should mention also that battery life is really not an issue anymore,
I have a Logitech M510 that goes a year on batteries, My new Logitech
M705 is advertized to go 3 years on a pair of alkaline AA cells.

Rene

I have a logitech M330 and like it so much, had it for quite a while.
It also like Rene's says 2 years on battery, but I don't get more than a
few months on it. Still mine is a single battery and that consumes less
batteries.

My wife's Kindle doesn't last the time Amazon says it will, but then she
reads 6 hours a day not the little time they say is typical. I'd say
mice batteries are the same, it depends how much you use it. Mine goes
to sleep when not used to save battery but if it's used 12 hours a day,
that's a lot of drain.

Al

 

[Char Jackson]

On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 20:59:49 -0500, Rene Lamontagne <rlamont@shaw.ca>
wrote:

I should mention also that battery life is really not an issue anymore,
I have a Logitech M510 that goes a year on batteries, My new Logitech
M705 is advertized to go 3 years on a pair of alkaline AA cells.

+1

I've been using M705's with multiple PCs since 2013 and love them. I get
more than two years on a set of AAs, but who knows how fresh the cells were
to begin with.

One thing about the M705 is that it can run on a single battery if you're
willing to trade longer battery life for less weight. I don't mind the
weight, so I use two cells. Also, there's an LED on top of the mouse that
normally lights up green, but changes to red when the batteries are weak.
Lastly, I love the mechanical switch that disables the wheel detent, making
it easy to scroll up/down at high speed.

--

Char Jackson

 

[Arlen _G_ Holder]

On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 02:19:33 +0100, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:

It _may_ be possible to dismantle and repair the switches themselves,
but I'd not like to try.

Usenet is a community potluck where everyone chips in where they can.

I didn't read all the details in the thread, where my value add is that
o I can simply vouch for fixing mice by taking them apart (carefully).

My suggestion to the OP is to take the mouse apart, like I did here:
<https://i.postimg.cc/v83WFn2v/mouse01.jpg>

And then clean everything up and look for something broken:
<https://i.postimg.cc/5tr2SxsL/mouse02.jpg>

If nothing else, it's useful to see how the thing works inside.

 

[Patrick]

On 13/10/2019 01:57, MouseUser wrote:

My favorite mouse is acting up.
Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at all.

I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.

Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least at a
reasonable price).

Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).

Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ?
Suggestions ?
Links please !

Microsoft Notebook Optical Mouse 3000

Thanks !

Two of the screws holding it together are hidden under the 'feet' as
shown here;
http://cordes.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-299.html

 

[Patrick]

On 13/10/2019 08:55, Patrick wrote:

On 13/10/2019 01:57, MouseUser wrote:
My favorite mouse is acting up.
Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at all.

I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.

Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least at
a reasonable price).

Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).

Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ?
Suggestions ?
Links please !

Microsoft Notebook Optical Mouse 3000

Thanks !

Two of the screws holding it together are hidden under the 'feet' as
shown here;
http://cordes.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-299.html

And another screw is hidden under the label !!

 

[SC Tom]

"Char Jackson" <none@none.invalid> wrote in message
newsb45qe9fh8jvcrhdt9caqmuum8sg9dig11@4ax.com...

On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 20:59:49 -0500, Rene Lamontagne <rlamont@shaw.ca
wrote:

I should mention also that battery life is really not an issue anymore,
I have a Logitech M510 that goes a year on batteries, My new Logitech
M705 is advertized to go 3 years on a pair of alkaline AA cells.

+1

I've been using M705's with multiple PCs since 2013 and love them. I get
more than two years on a set of AAs, but who knows how fresh the cells
were
to begin with.

One thing about the M705 is that it can run on a single battery if you're
willing to trade longer battery life for less weight. I don't mind the
weight, so I use two cells. Also, there's an LED on top of the mouse that
normally lights up green, but changes to red when the batteries are weak.
Lastly, I love the mechanical switch that disables the wheel detent,
making
it easy to scroll up/down at high speed.

I'm on my 2nd M705- the first one (after 3-1/2 years) was having the same
mechanical problems as the OP's mouse.
My newer one is 2+ years old and so far is everything it's advertised to be.
I use rechargeable batteries in it, and they last about 14-16 months. Since
I have a number of these batteries around (I also use them in my various
remotes), I always have at least 2 that are charged up and ready to go.

I would definitely recommend the M705 to my friends
--

SC Tom

 

[Michael Terrell]

On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 8:58:06 PM UTC-4, MouseUser wrote:

My favorite mouse is acting up.
Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at all.

I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.

Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least at a
reasonable price).

Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).

Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ?
Suggestions ?
Links please !

Microsoft Notebook Optical Mouse 3000

These Omron switches are used in a lot of mice. I go through a set about twice a year, from writing a lot of HTML by hand. I use the Logitech M310 most of the time, but I do use other mice. I bought 50 switches, the last time.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=OMRON+D2FC-F-7N-10m&_sacat=181854

 

[Fox's Mercantile]

On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 8:58:06 PM UTC-4, MouseUser wrote:> My
favorite mouse is acting up.> Buttons double-click on a single-click and
sometimes do not click at all.
I don't waste my time fixing mice.
I have a 5 gallon bucket of mice I've picked up at the
local thrift stores from $0.25 to $1.99 each.
With and without scroll wheels.
Wired and wireless with the transceivers.
Even track balls. (My preferred mouse.)
USB and P/S2 as well, even a few serial mice.
*laughs* I even have a Logitech "Bus Mouse" with an ISA card.
If a mouse quits working or starts to get erratic, into
the trash it goes.
Same goes for keyboards.

--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

 

[Ken Blake]

On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 20:59:49 -0500, Rene Lamontagne <rlamont@shaw.ca>
wrote:

I should mention also that battery life is really not an issue anymore,
I have a Logitech M510 that goes a year on batteries, My new Logitech
M705 is advertized to go 3 years on a pair of alkaline AA cells.

The mouse I use and like very much is the Anker 2.4G Wireless Vertical
Ergonomic Optical Mouse ($19.99 from Amazon). It's my first wireless
mouse. I've had it for about four months, and I just had to replace
its batteries.

It's very different from the common horizontal mice; it's much more
comfortable.

 

[Ken Blake]

On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 21:03:20 -0500, Paul in Houston TX
<Paul@Houston.Texas> wrote:

It's easy to refurbish mice.
I refurb all my mice when they go bad because I like the ones I have.
Take it completely apart, clean the optics, remove the micro switches,
and solder in new ones. The tails break conductors near where they go
into the mouse so cut off the tail about 1" near the entry point on the
mouse and re-solder to the internal plug. Use heat shrink on the solder
joints. If the plastic tabs that push the micro switches are worn down
then use your soldering iron to add more of the same type of plastic.
It will be an ABS mix. Should take no more than 20 minutes.

Each to his own. Mice are very cheap these days. I wouldn't dream of
spending 20 minutes, the cost of new microswitches, soldering iron,
and solder to save $20 or so for a new mouse.

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <p2j6qed71pl09cs4953iauhhsnsjm1fbgc@4ax.com>,
Ken@invalid.news.com says...

Each to his own. Mice are very cheap these days. I wouldn't dream of
spending 20 minutes, the cost of new microswitches, soldering iron,
and solder to save $20 or so for a new mouse.

I am with you Ken. Some things are just not worth the time and effort.
I can see that if someone really likes a particular mouse it is worth it
to them to tak half a day repairing a $ 20 item.

 

[Ken Blake]

On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 14:28:20 -0400, Ralph Mowery
<rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article <p2j6qed71pl09cs4953iauhhsnsjm1fbgc@4ax.com>,
Ken@invalid.news.com says...

Each to his own. Mice are very cheap these days. I wouldn't dream of
spending 20 minutes, the cost of new microswitches, soldering iron,
and solder to save $20 or so for a new mouse.



I am with you Ken. Some things are just not worth the time and effort.
I can see that if someone really likes a particular mouse it is worth it
to them to tak half a day repairing a $ 20 item.

Half a day? Not me. I'd spend the $20 and just buy a new one.

 

[Paul]

Patrick wrote:

On 13/10/2019 08:55, Patrick wrote:
On 13/10/2019 01:57, MouseUser wrote:
My favorite mouse is acting up.
Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at
all.

I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.

Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least at
a reasonable price).

Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).

Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ?
Suggestions ?
Links please !

Microsoft Notebook Optical Mouse 3000

Thanks !

Two of the screws holding it together are hidden under the 'feet' as
shown here;
http://cordes.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-299.html

And another screw is hidden under the label !!

I use a magnetic wand and move it around the base
of items like this, to try to verify in advance
where the screws are hidden. There's nothing
more embarrassing than ripping rubber feet off
something and finding "air" underneath :-/ The
screws, being ferrous, can sometimes be located
with my screw retrieval wand. Sometimes the screws
are far enough away from the surface, this can barely
detect them.

https://www.amazon.com/SE-8036TM-NEW-Telescoping-Magnetic-Capacity/dp/B000RB3XBA

And the screw under the label, sometimes the label
already has a criss-cross cut pattern in it, to
make it easier for the philips screwdriver to get
at the screw.

A good mouse now, only uses one screw, and one
end of the mouse forms a hinge, and the other end
has the screw placed in it. But back in the rubber ball
mouse era, there could be three screws.

The screws are easy to find on one of these
It was the Rambo of mice, because it had "steel balls".
The rubber ball mice that came after this, were a joke.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:HawleyMarkIImice.jpg

When disassembling the mouse, be particularly wary
of the scroll wheel, as the parts may not be "retained"
and if you tip the mouse upside-down with the cover
off, all sort of junk and little springs will go flying.
The mouse cover, is what prevents that from happening
normally.

1) Remove screws from bottom of mouse.
2) Tip mouse upright, scroll wheel facing up.
3) Now, remove top cover with captive plastic mouse buttons.
4) Examine what is underneath. Note whether
scroll wheel is "booby trapped" to fall apart on you.

Paul

 

[Paul in Houston TX]

Ken Blake wrote:

On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 21:03:20 -0500, Paul in Houston TX
Paul@Houston.Texas> wrote:


It's easy to refurbish mice.
I refurb all my mice when they go bad because I like the ones I have.
Take it completely apart, clean the optics, remove the micro switches,
and solder in new ones. The tails break conductors near where they go
into the mouse so cut off the tail about 1" near the entry point on the
mouse and re-solder to the internal plug. Use heat shrink on the solder
joints. If the plastic tabs that push the micro switches are worn down
then use your soldering iron to add more of the same type of plastic.
It will be an ABS mix. Should take no more than 20 minutes.


Each to his own. Mice are very cheap these days. I wouldn't dream of
spending 20 minutes, the cost of new microswitches, soldering iron,
and solder to save $20 or so for a new mouse.

I like fixing things. It's sort of a hobby.
Ordering a new one for $12 is not nearly as much fun.