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Small AC motor has corrosion on the shaft (on both sides of rotor) that
is inside the bearings.
What is the best way to remove the corrosion
On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 9:30:47 AM UTC-8, Bill E. wrote:
Small AC motor has corrosion on the shaft (on both sides of rotor) that
is inside the bearings.
What is the best way to remove the corrosion
First, protect the bearings (you might want to replace and/or clean/relube them, but
that's another issue). Then, remove any loose material from the corroded area
(wire brush, if you can get access without endangering the wiring).
Any brown rust can be stabilized (turned to black oxide) with rust converter
chemical coatings, but I'd usually just rub on some wax and warm the area with
a torch.
Mainly, if there's any condensing moisture around, you want the surface to
be non-hydrophilic so moisture doesn't invade a rust pit and enlarge it...
Small AC motor has corrosion on the shaft (on both sides of rotor) that
is inside the bearings.
What is the best way to remove the corrosion (chemical or mechaical)
and try to keep the shaft as smooth as possible. i will use a teflon
lube when reassembling.
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?
If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!
WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,
and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.
Bill E wrote:
Small AC motor has corrosion on the shaft (on both sides of rotor) that
is inside the bearings.
What is the best way to remove the corrosion (chemical or mechaical)
and try to keep the shaft as smooth as possible. i will use a teflon
lube when reassembling.
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?
If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!
WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,
** See:
http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses
and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.
** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.
Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.
My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.
John Robertson wrote:
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?
If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!
WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,
** See:
http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses
and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.
** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.
.... Phil
On 01/16/2015 3:15 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
John Robertson wrote:
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?
If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!
WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,
** See:
http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses
and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.
** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.
.... Phil
Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.
My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.
A good oil, grease, or synthetic lube is always preferred to a 'wonder'
drug like WD in my books. I guess I'm the anti-WDhrist.
On 01/16/2015 3:15 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
John Robertson wrote:
On 01/16/2015 8:48 AM, walter_...@post.com wrote in
sci.electronics.repair:
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?
If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!
WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,
** See:
http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses
and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.
** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.
.... Phil
Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.
My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.
A good oil, grease, or synthetic lube is always preferred to a 'wonder'
drug like WD in my books. I guess I'm the anti-WDhrist.
Small AC motor has corrosion on the shaft (on both sides of rotor) that
is inside the bearings.
What is the best way to remove the corrosion (chemical or mechaical)
and try to keep the shaft as smooth as possible. i will use a teflon
lube when reassembling.
On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 12:30:47 PM UTC-5, Bill E. wrote:
Small AC motor has corrosion on the shaft (on both sides of rotor) that
is inside the bearings.
What is the best way to remove the corrosion (chemical or mechaical)
and try to keep the shaft as smooth as possible. i will use a teflon
lube when reassembling.
One guy uses reverse electrolysis. Somewhere here: http://zombieengines.blogspot.com/
WD40 is good for some stuff but it does indeed leave a waxy coatingOn 01/16/2015 3:15 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
John Robertson wrote:
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?
If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!
WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,
** See:
http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses
and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.
** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.
.... Phil
Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.
My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.
A good oil, grease, or synthetic lube is always preferred to a 'wonder'
drug like WD in my books. I guess I'm the anti-WDhrist.
(ducking)
John ;-#)#
WD40 is good for some stuff but it does indeed leave a waxy coating
behind when it dries.
For this reason it only gets used in my shop for
certain things.
I had a PC power supply plain bearing fan which seized-up absolutelyJohn Robertson wrote:
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?
If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!
WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,
** See:
http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses
and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.
** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.
Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.
My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.
** Sounds like "arcade games" contain delicate mechanisms that must
have low or no contact friction in order to work properly - like most
mechanical watches and clocks.
Such mechanisms need special low viscosity, low evaporation lubricants
and cannot use mineral oil.
It says on the can " Frees Sticky Mechanisms" and it does so by
dissolving any greases and oils that have hardened over time and with
heat.
The shafts of small AC motors in turntables and tape recorders and fans
sometimes jam tight because of this and a little WD40 gets them running
again in seconds.
In message <c651bc31-4fa7-4361-a5fc-5e651a271821@googlegroups.com>, Phil
Allison <pallison49@gmail.com> writes
John Robertson wrote:
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?
If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!
WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,
** See:
http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses
and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.
** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.
Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.
My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.
** Sounds like "arcade games" contain delicate mechanisms that must
have low or no contact friction in order to work properly - like most
mechanical watches and clocks.
Such mechanisms need special low viscosity, low evaporation lubricants
and cannot use mineral oil.
It says on the can " Frees Sticky Mechanisms" and it does so by
dissolving any greases and oils that have hardened over time and with
heat.
The shafts of small AC motors in turntables and tape recorders and fans
sometimes jam tight because of this and a little WD40 gets them running
again in seconds.
I had a PC power supply plain bearing fan which seized-up absolutely
solid. After applying some WD40 (and, I believe, it needed the tip of a
hot soldering iron applied to the end of the spindle) I eventually got
it freed off. I treated it to a little more WD40, cleaned off the
surplus, replaced the rubber bung etc - and it was still running happily
18 months later, when I decided to do another service. This time I gave
it a couple of drops of 3-in-1.
On Friday, January 23, 2015 at 6:32:23 PM UTC-5, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message <c651bc31-4fa7-4361-a5fc-5e651a271821@googlegroups.com>, Phil
Allison <pallison49@gmail.com> writes
John Robertson wrote:
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?
If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!
WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,
** See:
http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses
and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.
** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.
Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.
My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.
** Sounds like "arcade games" contain delicate mechanisms that must
have low or no contact friction in order to work properly - like most
mechanical watches and clocks.
Such mechanisms need special low viscosity, low evaporation lubricants
and cannot use mineral oil.
It says on the can " Frees Sticky Mechanisms" and it does so by
dissolving any greases and oils that have hardened over time and with
heat.
The shafts of small AC motors in turntables and tape recorders and fans
sometimes jam tight because of this and a little WD40 gets them running
again in seconds.
I had a PC power supply plain bearing fan which seized-up absolutely
solid. After applying some WD40 (and, I believe, it needed the tip of a
hot soldering iron applied to the end of the spindle) I eventually got
it freed off. I treated it to a little more WD40, cleaned off the
surplus, replaced the rubber bung etc - and it was still running happily
18 months later, when I decided to do another service. This time I gave
it a couple of drops of 3-in-1.
I've never heard of 3-in-1. Is it auto mechanics stuff or like liquid wrench? I might go and try a bottle. I keep losing the small pocket sized WD-40 mini-spray can. I'm not really focused on that right now, though.
Right now, I'm bogged down trying to clean a toilet drain. The
new weight loss stuff is clogging plumbing drains a lot quicker.
I'm going to try to find a little piece, maybe just 10 feet or
so - of snake line fish tape and swirl it with some laundry
detergent. You know, the new 3x stuff. That should really
clean the line out. Or is it time for muriatic acid. I don't
know. We'll see.
http://www.3inone.com/original/I've never heard of 3-in-1. Is it auto mechanics stuff or like liquid
wrench? I might go and try a bottle. I keep losing the small pocket
sized WD-40 mini-spray can.
I've never heard of 3-in-1. Is it auto mechanics stuff or like liquid wrench? I might go and try a bottle. I keep losing the small pocket sized WD-40 mini-spray can. I'm not really focused on that right now, though.