Mitsubishi VS-4571 video problem (0/1)

N

Noah

Guest
Help! My boss gave me his broken Mitsubishi 45" projection TV. Said
video went out came back the next day and then went out again.
I plugged it in and watched TV for three days before it went out.
Now TV picture takes about 5-20 mins to come up and it is
intermittently jittery and picture goes out until it just stops. OSD
is not affected.

Ok, let me just say "I'm not a TV repair man or electrical engineer"
I like to tinker and I can solder a bit. My brother can help me with
the testing of components.
I'm just looking for expertise to tell me where to start or give me
suggestions.
Some research on the internet says some TVs of this model had problems
with cracked solder on the metal pins in the vertical winding
connections on the yokes.
Other messages suggest a vert sync failure. Any suggestions would be
appreciated. I have attached pictures and a small movie file from my
digital camera and can send more of TV innards if needed.

Also if anyone knows where I can get schematics for cheap, please let
me know. Thanx.

Regards,
Noah
 
Noah,
First and foremost is the fact that this newsgroup is for text only.
Please refrain from posting binary attachments here.
If you must post a picture to show a problem, please post it elsewhere and
show a link to it in your future postings to this newsgroup.

Now for your problem.
Your most likely failure is the PIP module.
They have surface mounted caps that like to leak and eat up copper runs.
The PIP module problems are well documented and can be bypassed.
Do a google search for Mitsubishi and PIP and you will see what I mean.

Good Luck,
Bill Jr



"Noah" <na@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:d87hhvs7d5dngnmhtsqjqa2ln7a1l1r3n8@4ax.com...
Help! My boss gave me his broken Mitsubishi 45" projection TV. Said
video went out came back the next day and then went out again.
I plugged it in and watched TV for three days before it went out.
Now TV picture takes about 5-20 mins to come up and it is
intermittently jittery and picture goes out until it just stops. OSD
is not affected.

Ok, let me just say "I'm not a TV repair man or electrical engineer"
I like to tinker and I can solder a bit. My brother can help me with
the testing of components.
I'm just looking for expertise to tell me where to start or give me
suggestions.
Some research on the internet says some TVs of this model had problems
with cracked solder on the metal pins in the vertical winding
connections on the yokes.
Other messages suggest a vert sync failure. Any suggestions would be
appreciated. I have attached pictures and a small movie file from my
digital camera and can send more of TV innards if needed.

Also if anyone knows where I can get schematics for cheap, please let
me know. Thanx.

Regards,
Noah
Click to expand...
 
Bill,

Thanx. I appreciate the info. I also apologize for the binary post
and will refrain from doing it in the future.

Regards,
Noah


On Sat, 19 Jul 2003 01:46:14 GMT, "Bill Jr" <bill@nospam.usa2net.net>
wrote:

Noah,
First and foremost is the fact that this newsgroup is for text only.
Please refrain from posting binary attachments here.
If you must post a picture to show a problem, please post it elsewhere and
show a link to it in your future postings to this newsgroup.

Now for your problem.
Your most likely failure is the PIP module.
They have surface mounted caps that like to leak and eat up copper runs.
The PIP module problems are well documented and can be bypassed.
Do a google search for Mitsubishi and PIP and you will see what I mean.

Good Luck,
Bill Jr



"Noah" <na@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:d87hhvs7d5dngnmhtsqjqa2ln7a1l1r3n8@4ax.com...
Help! My boss gave me his broken Mitsubishi 45" projection TV. Said
video went out came back the next day and then went out again.
I plugged it in and watched TV for three days before it went out.
Now TV picture takes about 5-20 mins to come up and it is
intermittently jittery and picture goes out until it just stops. OSD
is not affected.

Ok, let me just say "I'm not a TV repair man or electrical engineer"
I like to tinker and I can solder a bit. My brother can help me with
the testing of components.
I'm just looking for expertise to tell me where to start or give me
suggestions.
Some research on the internet says some TVs of this model had problems
with cracked solder on the metal pins in the vertical winding
connections on the yokes.
Other messages suggest a vert sync failure. Any suggestions would be
appreciated. I have attached pictures and a small movie file from my
digital camera and can send more of TV innards if needed.

Also if anyone knows where I can get schematics for cheap, please let
me know. Thanx.

Regards,
Noah
Click to expand...
 
Once you find where the electrolyte has leaked on the circuit boards you
will need to clean the debris away and inspect the physical print for
etching away or breaks. The material in the electrolyte has a way or
destroying the traces on the pcbs. This can result in a major FUBAR
requiring the service literature to determine just where the original traces
originate and terminate.
"Noah" <na@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:d87hhvs7d5dngnmhtsqjqa2ln7a1l1r3n8@4ax.com...
Help! My boss gave me his broken Mitsubishi 45" projection TV. Said
video went out came back the next day and then went out again.
I plugged it in and watched TV for three days before it went out.
Now TV picture takes about 5-20 mins to come up and it is
intermittently jittery and picture goes out until it just stops. OSD
is not affected.

Ok, let me just say "I'm not a TV repair man or electrical engineer"
I like to tinker and I can solder a bit. My brother can help me with
the testing of components.
I'm just looking for expertise to tell me where to start or give me
suggestions.
Some research on the internet says some TVs of this model had problems
with cracked solder on the metal pins in the vertical winding
connections on the yokes.
Other messages suggest a vert sync failure. Any suggestions would be
appreciated. I have attached pictures and a small movie file from my
digital camera and can send more of TV innards if needed.

Also if anyone knows where I can get schematics for cheap, please let
me know. Thanx.

Regards,
Noah
Click to expand...
 
Good advice other than the PIP info. This set had no PIP according to the
Mits chassis reference. Likely bad caps. All boards need to be checked
VERY carefully.

This is a V13 chassis, typically find a handfull to 60 bad caps on these
units.

Leonard Caillouet

"David" <dkuhajda@locl.net.spam> wrote in message
news:3f1ad9c1@news.greennet.net...
No schematic needed.
Not only do you need to replace every surface mount capacitor on the pip
board, but you need to ESR check every electrolytic capacitor in the set
and
replace all bad ones. Then you need to do a visual inspection of those
you
did not replace for signs of electrolytic leakage out the bottom. If you
do
not catch all of the bad one (usually between 30 and 100), the set will
need
repaired again soon.

Find a reputable shop that has performed several full capacitor check and
set repairs on these, and you will find they usually run right around $350
if you take the set into the shop. It is well worth it to have the set
done
properly as the picture tubes are usually still pretty good unless the set
has really been run lots of hours.

MAT electronics sells the PIP capacitor kit with all the capacitors. You
will also need a good fine tipped temperature controlled soldering station
to replace them and a careful steady hand. You will also need to get a
hold
of a capacitor ESR meter to check the rest.

David

Noah <na@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:kpdhhvovjv0pmjh6sp1cd9k7tal5tlcpns@4ax.com...
Bill,

Thanx. I appreciate the info. I also apologize for the binary post
and will refrain from doing it in the future.

Regards,
Noah


On Sat, 19 Jul 2003 01:46:14 GMT, "Bill Jr" <bill@nospam.usa2net.net
wrote:

Noah,
First and foremost is the fact that this newsgroup is for text only.
Please refrain from posting binary attachments here.
If you must post a picture to show a problem, please post it elsewhere

and
show a link to it in your future postings to this newsgroup.

Now for your problem.
Your most likely failure is the PIP module.
They have surface mounted caps that like to leak and eat up copper
runs.
The PIP module problems are well documented and can be bypassed.
Do a google search for Mitsubishi and PIP and you will see what I mean.

Good Luck,
Bill Jr



"Noah" <na@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:d87hhvs7d5dngnmhtsqjqa2ln7a1l1r3n8@4ax.com...
Help! My boss gave me his broken Mitsubishi 45" projection TV. Said
video went out came back the next day and then went out again.
I plugged it in and watched TV for three days before it went out.
Now TV picture takes about 5-20 mins to come up and it is
intermittently jittery and picture goes out until it just stops. OSD
is not affected.

Ok, let me just say "I'm not a TV repair man or electrical engineer"
I like to tinker and I can solder a bit. My brother can help me with
the testing of components.
I'm just looking for expertise to tell me where to start or give me
suggestions.
Some research on the internet says some TVs of this model had
problems
with cracked solder on the metal pins in the vertical winding
connections on the yokes.
Other messages suggest a vert sync failure. Any suggestions would be
appreciated. I have attached pictures and a small movie file from my
digital camera and can send more of TV innards if needed.

Also if anyone knows where I can get schematics for cheap, please let
me know. Thanx.

Regards,
Noah
Click to expand...
 
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