Mini Fridge cost-of-ownership

[Brian Cohen]

I apologize in advance if this is the wrong forum, but I can't figure
out where else to ask. I just got an old school mini-fridge and I'm
trying to figure out how much it's gonna cost to run.

The back of the unit lists it at 3.5 amps. I've seen stuff that says
some of the newer models only cost about $2 a month... would this hold
for older fridges too or are they making them more energy-efficient
these days?

Thanks, and again I apologize if this was the wrong forum.

-Brian

 

[happyhobit]

Hi Brian,

Here's how you do it.

3.5 amps / hour
X
24 hours / day
X
30 days / month
X
125 volts
=
315,000 Watts or 315 KWH / month
X
rate ( .10 / KWH) may be different in your area.
=
$31.50 / month

For $2 / month the current would have to be .222 amps (1/5 amp)

Jay
--
..
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I'm pullin' for you; we're all in this together", Red Green
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
..
..
"Brian Cohen" <spam@spam.net> wrote in message
news:gbWdnaEYa57Vc2Ci4p2dnA@speakeasy.net...

I apologize in advance if this is the wrong forum, but I can't figure
out where else to ask. I just got an old school mini-fridge and I'm
trying to figure out how much it's gonna cost to run.

The back of the unit lists it at 3.5 amps. I've seen stuff that says
some of the newer models only cost about $2 a month... would this hold
for older fridges too or are they making them more energy-efficient
these days?

Thanks, and again I apologize if this was the wrong forum.

-Brian

 

[Al]

In article <FsadnVH7g8TcY2CiRVn-ug@wideopenwest.com>,
"happyhobit" <happyhobit@wideopenwest.com> wrote:

Hi Brian,

Here's how you do it.

3.5 amps / hour
X
24 hours / day
X
30 days / month
X
125 volts
=
315,000 Watts or 315 KWH / month
X
rate ( .10 / KWH) may be different in your area.
=
$31.50 / month

For $2 / month the current would have to be .222 amps (1/5 amp)

Jay
--
.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I'm pullin' for you; we're all in this together", Red Green
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
.
.
"Brian Cohen" <spam@spam.net> wrote in message
news:gbWdnaEYa57Vc2Ci4p2dnA@speakeasy.net...
I apologize in advance if this is the wrong forum, but I can't figure
out where else to ask. I just got an old school mini-fridge and I'm
trying to figure out how much it's gonna cost to run.

The back of the unit lists it at 3.5 amps. I've seen stuff that says
some of the newer models only cost about $2 a month... would this hold
for older fridges too or are they making them more energy-efficient
these days?

Thanks, and again I apologize if this was the wrong forum.

It's better if you don't top post. That out of the way, I would imagine
that the 3.5 amps is just the power needed for the compressor while it
is running. If the compressor runs for 15 minutes every hour, then your
cost will be 1/4 of that computed above.

For comparison, the amount of electricity my WHOLE house uses in some
months is just 315 KWH for a cost of about $50. So $35/mo would be way
too expensive for me.

Al

--
There's never enough time to do it right the first time.......

 

[happyhobit]

Hi Al,
You're correct about my power conclusion, I realized that and was about
to post a correction but you beat me to it. By the way, does this
refrigerator have a compressor or is it an ammonia absorption type with a
400 watt heater?

That out of the way, I've seen some very long threads regarding the pros
and cons of top, bottom and interleave posting with no consensus, just a lot
of opinions. I would prefer to see what each poster has to say without
scanning through all the text. I do think mixing top and bottom posting
makes a real mess. Just my opinion

Then there's the question of quoting and sniping. Should the entire
thread be re-posted with every response? Why? More pros and cons, more
opinions.

Jay

--
..
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I'm pullin' for you; we're all in this together", Red Green
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
..
..
"Al" <no.spam@here.com> wrote in message
news:no.spam-4A9243.21270808012004@news.verizon.net...

It's better if you don't top post. That out of the way, I would imagine
that the 3.5 amps is just the power needed for the compressor while it
is running. If the compressor runs for 15 minutes every hour, then your
cost will be 1/4 of that computed above.

For comparison, the amount of electricity my WHOLE house uses in some
months is just 315 KWH for a cost of about $50. So $35/mo would be way
too expensive for me.

Al

--
There's never enough time to do it right the first time.......

 

[Lenroc]

On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 23:12:52 -0500, happyhobit wrote:

I've seen some very long threads regarding the pros and cons of top,
bottom and interleave posting with no consensus, just a lot of opinions.

I've never seen any top- or bottom- poster actually make anything even
close to a valid argument for their 'style' of posting. Your post is
slightly better than Al's (he should have at a minimum snipped out Brian's
post, since he wasn't responding to it, and preferably snipped out most of
your post too, and interleaved his responses to fit with your statements;
you, OTOH, should have posted new content on the bottom, after snipping
out as much as possible [this is why your newsreader, OE, puts the cursor
at the top of the post when you begin composing a message. It gives you a
chance to snip before moving the cursor to the bottom of the snipped text
to begin composing]).

I would prefer to see what each poster has to say without
scanning through all the text.

Which is exactly what a properly interlaced post is optimized for.

Then there's the question of quoting and sniping. Should the entire
thread be re-posted with every response?

No. Because each post should stand on it's own. My statements wouldn't
make sense without the portion of your post that I'm quoting, so I leave
them in. I take out everything else though, for clarity, and to save
bandwidth.

More pros and cons, more opinions.

Again, I've never seen a valid argument for top- or bottom- posting. It
seems that most people have opinions, but they aren't really based in
anything resembling logic. Properly interleaving & snipping is the only
method I've ever seen a good argument for: comparing a well composed reply
to a poorly composed one is all the proof needed.

--
Lenroc

 

[Tonto]

On Fri, 09 Jan 2004 02:27:07 GMT, Al <no.spam@here.com> wrote:

In article <FsadnVH7g8TcY2CiRVn-ug@wideopenwest.com>,
"happyhobit" <happyhobit@wideopenwest.com> wrote:

Hi Brian,

Here's how you do it.

3.5 amps / hour
X
24 hours / day
X
30 days / month
X
125 volts
=
315,000 Watts or 315 KWH / month
X
rate ( .10 / KWH) may be different in your area.
=
$31.50 / month

For $2 / month the current would have to be .222 amps (1/5 amp)

Jay
--
.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I'm pullin' for you; we're all in this together", Red Green
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
.
.
"Brian Cohen" <spam@spam.net> wrote in message
news:gbWdnaEYa57Vc2Ci4p2dnA@speakeasy.net...
I apologize in advance if this is the wrong forum, but I can't figure
out where else to ask. I just got an old school mini-fridge and I'm
trying to figure out how much it's gonna cost to run.

The back of the unit lists it at 3.5 amps. I've seen stuff that says
some of the newer models only cost about $2 a month... would this hold
for older fridges too or are they making them more energy-efficient
these days?

Thanks, and again I apologize if this was the wrong forum.


It's better if you don't top post. That out of the way, I would imagine
that the 3.5 amps is just the power needed for the compressor while it
is running. If the compressor runs for 15 minutes every hour, then your
cost will be 1/4 of that computed above.

For comparison, the amount of electricity my WHOLE house uses in some
months is just 315 KWH for a cost of about $50. So $35/mo would be way
too expensive for me.

Al

Note that the energy consumed by the fridge will end up heating the
house, so you'll reduce your heating bill somewhat. This, of course,
depends on the length of the "heating season" (if any) in your
location.
Jari

 

[Al]

In article <%isLb.55711$m83.12406@fed1read01>,
Lenroc <lenroc@NOSPAMFORYOU.hotmail.com> wrote:

On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 23:12:52 -0500, happyhobit wrote:

I've seen some very long threads regarding the pros and cons of top,
bottom and interleave posting with no consensus, just a lot of opinions.

I've never seen any top- or bottom- poster actually make anything even
close to a valid argument for their 'style' of posting. Your post is
slightly better than Al's (he should have at a minimum snipped out Brian's
post, since he wasn't responding to it, and preferably snipped out most of
your post too, and interleaved his responses to fit with your statements;
you, OTOH, should have posted new content on the bottom, after snipping
out as much as possible [this is why your newsreader, OE, puts the cursor
at the top of the post when you begin composing a message. It gives you a
chance to snip before moving the cursor to the bottom of the snipped text
to begin composing]).

I would prefer to see what each poster has to say without
scanning through all the text.

Which is exactly what a properly interlaced post is optimized for.

Then there's the question of quoting and sniping. Should the entire
thread be re-posted with every response?

No. Because each post should stand on it's own. My statements wouldn't
make sense without the portion of your post that I'm quoting, so I leave
them in. I take out everything else though, for clarity, and to save
bandwidth.

More pros and cons, more opinions.

Again, I've never seen a valid argument for top- or bottom- posting. It
seems that most people have opinions, but they aren't really based in
anything resembling logic. Properly interleaving & snipping is the only
method I've ever seen a good argument for: comparing a well composed reply
to a poorly composed one is all the proof needed.

For me it's more convienent to read from top to bottom. If you top post,
you posit an answer before I see the question. Unless, of course, you
restate the question. Snipping is a form of editing; how do I know you
are snipping items which do not support your arguement. And so on.....

Al

--
There's never enough time to do it right the first time.......

 

[happyhobit]

The 'low- bandwidth' group says that any 'quoting' is wasteful.

The 'anti-editing' group says that any editing may be for sinister reasons.

The 'what-if-the-original-post-gets-lost' group says that everything ever
posted in the thread should be quoted in every following post.

The 'bottom-posting' group says that if you don't include the original post
how will people know what you're talking about.

The top-posting group, says it's my nickel, so I'm going to say what I think
first.

The 'Interleave-posting" group says that each post should be conversational.


Hi Lenroc,
Interleave posting is best for very involved, multi part, questions.


Hi Al,
I read the posts, in a thread, in the order that they are posted. After
reading Brian's original post I don't need to read it again with every
following post though I may include at the end for reference, if I feel it's
appropriate.

In closing I'd like to sing a song I wrote for this occasion. (To the tune
'R-E-S-P-E-C-T' by Aretha Franklin)

O-P-I-N-I-O-N
Just like a butt-hole
everybody's got one
O-P-I-N-I-O-N

I hope everyone has a fine day. : )

Jay

--
..
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I'm pullin' for you; we're all in this together", Red Green
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Al]

In article <ZMSdnfu3V5HYR2OiRVn-tw@wideopenwest.com>,

.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I'm pullin' for you; we're all in this together", Red Green
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

You watch that "Red Green" show on TV? For some reason it was dropped
hereabouts. Ran out of duct tape, maybe ;-)

Al

--
There's never enough time to do it right the first time.......

 

[happyhobit]

Hi Al,

I live South of Detroit in an area called Downriver. Hot on the Left, Cold
on the Right, ask a plumber for the punch line.

If they drop Red Green here I'll move to Canada. I'm getting old, my humor
is getting thin and I need a fix regularly.

My great-grandpa was a wetback that, according to family legend, swam the
Detroit River with his wife on his back. I'm getting so discussed with this
country, the politics, the morality and the population in general that I'm
ready to get Canadian citizenship and bail out. My grandmother was also a
Canadian and as I understand it that makes me a Canadian. (Dual Citizenship)

The best humor is Canadian. Wayne and Schuster's, 'Laugh In', 22-Minutes,
Rick Mercer's 'Talking to Americans', Royal Canadian Air Farce and of course
Red. Canadians can laugh at themselves and their politicians had better if
they know what's good for them.

Of course this is all my opinion. : )

I've wandered far off topic here, sorry, if you want to pursue any of my
ramblings post me direct. Have a good day Al.

Jay

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I'm pullin' for you; we're all in this together", Red Green
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
..

 

[Gunner]

Al <no.spam@here.com> wrote in
news:no.spam-277AE8.09065309012004@news.verizon.net:

In article <%isLb.55711$m83.12406@fed1read01>,
Lenroc <lenroc@NOSPAMFORYOU.hotmail.com> wrote:

On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 23:12:52 -0500, happyhobit wrote:

I've seen some very long threads regarding the pros and cons of
top, bottom and interleave posting with no consensus, just a lot of
opinions.

I've never seen any top- or bottom- poster actually make anything
even close to a valid argument for their 'style' of posting. Your
post is slightly better than Al's (he should have at a minimum
snipped out Brian's post, since he wasn't responding to it, and
preferably snipped out most of your post too, and interleaved his
responses to fit with your statements; you, OTOH, should have posted
new content on the bottom, after snipping out as much as possible
[this is why your newsreader, OE, puts the cursor at the top of the
post when you begin composing a message. It gives you a chance to
snip before moving the cursor to the bottom of the snipped text to
begin composing]).

I would prefer to see what each poster has to say without
scanning through all the text.

Which is exactly what a properly interlaced post is optimized for.

Then there's the question of quoting and sniping. Should the
entire thread be re-posted with every response?

No. Because each post should stand on it's own. My statements
wouldn't make sense without the portion of your post that I'm
quoting, so I leave them in. I take out everything else though, for
clarity, and to save bandwidth.

More pros and cons, more opinions.

Again, I've never seen a valid argument for top- or bottom- posting.
It seems that most people have opinions, but they aren't really based
in anything resembling logic. Properly interleaving & snipping is the
only method I've ever seen a good argument for: comparing a well
composed reply to a poorly composed one is all the proof needed.

For me it's more convienent to read from top to bottom. If you top
post, you posit an answer before I see the question. Unless, of
course, you restate the question. Snipping is a form of editing; how
do I know you are snipping items which do not support your arguement.
And so on.....

Al

I know this is off topic
but how do you make that graphic
show up in the uper right cornner Of Xnews
with your posts?

thank in advance

 

[m ~żô m]

Gunner wrote:

I know this is off topic
but how do you make that graphic
show up in the uper right cornner Of Xnews
with your posts?

thank in advance

I am unable to see the graphic you see but I used to create and use them
when I used Xnews with Windows. I haven't bothered to configue them since
changing to Linux. More info at this site. It can create the graphics I
suspect you see.

http://www.dairiki.org/xface/
--
_____________m___~żô____m__________________

 

[Gunner]

___m___~żô____m___ <NoSpam@NoSpam.invalid> wrote in news:OBoMb.12457
$EL4.3811@nwrddc02.gnilink.net:
X-Face: $IQ,cJLM:tDAw]ZLxW<\Gnz``<`|&a"NV/z`@*EJN<-AaAx=7Ee<^RMK/Lg>8Dm+
3F@Q+)t
RG1p\.*z:/h<q6{gl&3G^TR\*kYG?dSet.C93lAj{)ws1|dpKc#JATdHUrM@<Fy?k4y_kr
{EZQQ/;B
$sv{Zcrl5A={5..[J{~8r%~]tZF5tHCA:<+DLgyJ^M0Nnu*hFx5i#\yxr`R)nC)/W\U_s>
^Ag4qEPp
H!$~QDf}pD~Pk+DLGnKI4!7v$nT{0'aa4_Dp({wr?!k+!>?Kaz&zU-sW(I3AmFcVhr>^@te

http://www.dairiki.org/xface/

thanks for the heads up.

 

[JeffM]

I've seen some very long threads regarding the pros and cons
of top, bottom and interleave posting with no consensus,
just a lot of opinions.

Then there's the question of quoting and sniping.
Should the entire thread be re-posted with every response?

Jay

This is the FAQ for sci.electronics.repair:
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_Groups.html
It discusses "netiquette".

This is the FAQ for comp.lang.perl.misc:
http://www.augustmail.com/~tadmc/clpmisc/clpmisc_guidelines.text
It talks a lot about *do your homework before posting*
(Google for answers, read a book, check the FAQ, etc.)
as well as avoiding social faux pas.

Essentially, the concept is:
1) Blockquote (re-post) only the MINIMUM amount of the previous post
as to make clear that part to which you are responding.
(Sometimes it can be as little as 4 words.)
2) Maintain continuity of the thread;
Bottom post (or interleave, if responding to multiple points)
to make it easy for subsequent readers to follow the discussion.

 

[happyhobit]

"JeffM" <jeffm_@email.com> wrote in message
news:f8b945bc.0401131100.5b14402a@posting.google.com...

This is the FAQ for sci.electronics.repair:
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_Groups.html

This is the FAQ for comp.lang.perl.misc:
http://www.augustmail.com/~tadmc/clpmisc/clpmisc_guidelines.text

Thank you for providing this material regarding "netiquette". I've seen
some very long threads regarding the pros and cons of top-posting,
bottom-posting, interleave-posting and quoting but this is the first one I'
ve become embroiled in.

After reviewing the above links, and the links they provide, I can see some
logic in their positions. I will now strive to selectively quote, attribute
the quotes and interleaf / bottom post.

Now if I can just figure out how to convince Outlook Express to place my
'Signature File' below the quoted text so I don't have to move it.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I'm pullin' for you; we're all in this together", Red Green
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Lenroc]

On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:35:25 -0500, happyhobit wrote:

Now if I can just figure out how to convince Outlook Express to place my
'Signature File' below the quoted text so I don't have to move it.

IIRC, OE-Quotefix was designed to solve this problem.

I'm not 100% sure, because it does so much else good for OE users that I
never noticed if this was among them (I have never used an automatic
signature for some odd reason...).

http://flash.to/oe-quotefix/

Highly recommended for anyone who doesn't want to leave OE. Personally, I
recommend leaving OE anyway, but that's just my anti-M$ vibe speaking

(If you are interested in checking out alternatives, I personally suggest
Pan [http://pan.rebelbase.com/], though Agent
[http://www.forteinc.com/agent/index.php] is more mainstream.)

--
Lenroc

 

[happyhobit]

Lenroc <lenroc@NOSPAMFORYOU.hotmail.com> wrote:

IIRC, OE-Quotefix was designed to solve this problem.
http://flash.to/oe-quotefix/

Thanks Lenroc, I think. : )

I loaded OE-Quickfix and it's going to take time to learn all the features.
It is amusing to watch my 'Signature' jump down to the bottom when I reply
to a post. Well it's probably like a new pair of shoes and I'll have to take
some time to break it in.

--
Jay
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I'm pullin' for you; we're all in this together", Red Green
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Lenroc]

On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 22:04:42 -0500, happyhobit wrote:

Thanks Lenroc, I think. : )
I loaded OE-Quickfix and it's going to take time to learn all the features.
It is amusing to watch my 'Signature' jump down to the bottom when I reply
to a post. Well it's probably like a new pair of shoes and I'll have to take
some time to break it in.

Yeah, there are definitely some options to turn off. Most notably, I hate
those stupid smilies

(If you haven't seen any particularly annoying ones yet, and you have that
option turned on, may I be the first to say ROFL is a bad one...)

--
Lenroc

 

[Den Murray]

Err I may be wrong here .... but isn't $31.50 pm the cost with the fridge
door left open.

The plate value of 3.5A is the maximum peak current draw, and in practice,
the running value will be considerably less than this once the compressor
has kicked in, and at times (e.g. when the fridge is cold enough) the
current draw will be very low indeed.

D


"happyhobit" <happyhobit@wideopenwest.com> wrote in message
news:FsadnVH7g8TcY2CiRVn-ug@wideopenwest.com...

Hi Brian,

Here's how you do it.

3.5 amps / hour
X
24 hours / day
X
30 days / month
X
125 volts
=
315,000 Watts or 315 KWH / month
X
rate ( .10 / KWH) may be different in your area.
=
$31.50 / month

For $2 / month the current would have to be .222 amps (1/5 amp)

Jay
--
.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
"I'm pullin' for you; we're all in this together", Red Green
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
.
.
"Brian Cohen" <spam@spam.net> wrote in message
news:gbWdnaEYa57Vc2Ci4p2dnA@speakeasy.net...
I apologize in advance if this is the wrong forum, but I can't figure
out where else to ask. I just got an old school mini-fridge and I'm
trying to figure out how much it's gonna cost to run.

The back of the unit lists it at 3.5 amps. I've seen stuff that says
some of the newer models only cost about $2 a month... would this hold
for older fridges too or are they making them more energy-efficient
these days?

Thanks, and again I apologize if this was the wrong forum.

-Brian