Mechanical part,I need a search term to find and purchase.

[amdx]

Hi guys, I'm rebuilding my Radial Arm Saw, most the table, but need to
purchase the in this picture.
What is it called?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/unlyfrq5mq8q37q/RAS%20tensioner.jpg?dl=0

Thanks, Mikek

 

[amdx]

On 7/8/2019 12:45 PM, bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, July 8, 2019 at 12:43:53 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
Hi guys, I'm rebuilding my Radial Arm Saw, most the table, but need to
purchase the in this picture.
What is it called?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/unlyfrq5mq8q37q/RAS%20tensioner.jpg?dl=0


Thanks, Mikek

ebay listing, enter "One (1) Craftsman Radial Arm Saw 4-1/4" Table Clamp 63536 for Mdl #113.23111" in search

Very good, I was hoping to do an improvement over what I have, and
get something a little larger (1/4"?). So I still need a search term.
But, happy to now that;s available as I can make one work, but the
other one is beyond repair.
Thanks, Mikek

 

On Monday, July 8, 2019 at 12:43:53 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:

Hi guys, I'm rebuilding my Radial Arm Saw, most the table, but need to
purchase the in this picture.
What is it called?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/unlyfrq5mq8q37q/RAS%20tensioner.jpg?dl=0


Thanks, Mikek

ebay listing, enter "One (1) Craftsman Radial Arm Saw 4-1/4" Table Clamp 63536 for Mdl #113.23111" in search

 

[three_jeeps]

On Monday, July 8, 2019 at 12:43:53 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:

Hi guys, I'm rebuilding my Radial Arm Saw, most the table, but need to
purchase the in this picture.
What is it called?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/unlyfrq5mq8q37q/RAS%20tensioner.jpg?dl=0


Thanks, Mikek

here you go:
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/6609.pdf
see page 31, item #10

 

[three_jeeps]

On Monday, July 8, 2019 at 12:43:53 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:

Hi guys, I'm rebuilding my Radial Arm Saw, most the table, but need to
purchase the in this picture.
What is it called?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/unlyfrq5mq8q37q/RAS%20tensioner.jpg?dl=0


Thanks, Mikek

You can do a web search on your saw make/model number and find a parts diagram that will have identification, p/n and description of the part. If it is a sears craftsman model, the model number should cross to another mfg model (or something very close to what you have).
good luck
j

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Mon, 8 Jul 2019 11:43:51 -0500, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:

Hi guys, I'm rebuilding my Radial Arm Saw, most the table, but need to
purchase the in this picture.
What is it called?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/unlyfrq5mq8q37q/RAS%20tensioner.jpg?dl=0

Table clamp, fence clamp, or workpiece clamp.

The photo looks like the part has some rust on it but is otherwise in
good condition. Disassemble, dump the part in some vinegar to loosen
the rust, wire brush whatever rust is left, and apply some rust
reformer, bluing, or anti-rust coating. There are videos detailing
the rust removal and restoration process of various shop machines on
YouTube.

Also, this series might be of interest:
"Restoring a Radial Arm Saw"
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4lg1hYf33k>
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ccxZJ2We0z4>
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33uHPuc8oR4>

More:
<https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=radial+arm+saw>
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[amdx]

On 7/8/2019 8:05 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Mon, 8 Jul 2019 11:43:51 -0500, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:

Hi guys, I'm rebuilding my Radial Arm Saw, most the table, but need to
purchase the in this picture.
What is it called?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/unlyfrq5mq8q37q/RAS%20tensioner.jpg?dl=0

Table clamp, fence clamp, or workpiece clamp.

The photo looks like the part has some rust on it but is otherwise in
good condition. Disassemble, dump the part in some vinegar to loosen
the rust, wire brush whatever rust is left, and apply some rust
reformer, bluing, or anti-rust coating. There are videos detailing
the rust removal and restoration process of various shop machines on
YouTube.

Yes, that is the good part, the other one is bad, as in, missing the
rotating washer on the end. I managed to get find a washer of near
similar shape, and then the hole actually shrink to stay on the
thumbscrew when I got to match the original shape. Quite a lucky
sequence of events.
I also found some beam clamps that will make a heavy duty table clamp,
if I decide to go that far.

This video and part 2 are well done and did a lot as far as helping me
see what I wanted to do as to rebuilding the table.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1cc-_vPT0w

Thanks, Mikek

Also, this series might be of interest:
"Restoring a Radial Arm Saw"
Screw Clamp With Large Pad

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ccxZJ2We0z4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33uHPuc8oR4

More:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=radial+arm+saw

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Mon, 8 Jul 2019 23:29:03 -0500, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:

Yes, that is the good part, the other one is bad, as in, missing the
rotating washer on the end. I managed to get find a washer of near
similar shape, and then the hole actually shrink to stay on the
thumbscrew when I got to match the original shape. Quite a lucky
sequence of events.

Methinks you'll find that the stock cone washer is somewhat harder
than the common flat washer. The idea is to not deform the washer
when overtightening the screw. Another possible will be to use the
adjusting screw and pad from an adjustable height steel work table:
<https://images.globalindustrial.com/images/275x275/PG83051.jpg>

I also found some beam clamps that will make a heavy duty table clamp,
if I decide to go that far.

My father had a Craftsman radial arm saw in the garage during the
1960's. After a few incidents, he decided that I should not be
allowed to use it because it was inherently dangerous. It had a rod
attached to the motor, with a swivel fork arrangement at the tip, that
was intended to prevent the workpiece from flying back into the
operators face due to "kickback". It wasn't of much use for crosscut
work, but was useful for ripping, where the motor and blade were
rotated 90 degrees and the work could not be clamped to the table and
the anti-kickback kludge was useless. Kinda like an inverted table
saw. After a few board launches, he bought a real table saw.
Attaching the optional drill chuck to the motor and trying to use it
with a fly cutter turned out to be equally dangerous.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[amdx]

On 7/9/2019 10:08 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Mon, 8 Jul 2019 23:29:03 -0500, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:

Yes, that is the good part, the other one is bad, as in, missing the
rotating washer on the end. I managed to get find a washer of near
similar shape, and then the hole actually shrink to stay on the
thumbscrew when I got to match the original shape. Quite a lucky
sequence of events.

Methinks you'll find that the stock cone washer is somewhat harder
than the common flat washer. The idea is to not deform the washer
when overtightening the screw. Another possible will be to use the
adjusting screw and pad from an adjustable height steel work table:
https://images.globalindustrial.com/images/275x275/PG83051.jpg

Yes, I think you are correct on the new cone deforming, my previous
fix was just a piece 1/16" aluminum between the wood and the end of the
thumbscrew. It worked fine.

I also found some beam clamps that will make a heavy duty table clamp,
if I decide to go that far.

My father had a Craftsman radial arm saw in the garage during the
1960's. After a few incidents, he decided that I should not be
allowed to use it because it was inherently dangerous. It had a rod
attached to the motor, with a swivel fork arrangement at the tip, that
was intended to prevent the workpiece from flying back into the
operators face due to "kickback". It wasn't of much use for crosscut
work, but was useful for ripping, where the motor and blade were
rotated 90 degrees and the work could not be clamped to the table and
the anti-kickback kludge was useless. Kinda like an inverted table
saw. After a few board launches, he bought a real table saw.
Attaching the optional drill chuck to the motor and trying to use it
with a fly cutter turned out to be equally dangerous.

I was on a carpentry forum looking for answers and they had quite a
discussion about the dangers of Radial Arm Saws. To the point some said
throw it out.
I find it a very useful tool, for certain jobs and don't want to give
it up. Right now, all I want it for is to cut siding and soffit, I have
snips, miter saw, skilsaw, a siding knife and a table saw, but the
easiest to use for cutting siding is a Radial arm saw. (blade turned
backwards. If I had a sliding miter saw that would be my choice, but I
don't.

New information to me!!!!
One thing I did learn on the saw forum was that for Radial arm saws you
want a Negative hook angle tooth. A positive hook angle tooth is, as
they describe it, grabby.
Again forceful comments about the correct hook blade.
> https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?223617-saw-blade-for-radial-arm-saw

Mikek

 

On Monday, July 8, 2019 at 12:43:53 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:

Hi guys, I'm rebuilding my Radial Arm Saw, most the table, but need to
purchase the in this picture.
What is it called?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/unlyfrq5mq8q37q/RAS%20tensioner.jpg?dl=0


Thanks, Mike

I don't know the proper term for the whole thing but the threaded part in the middle is a barrel bolt cross dowel. The other part looks like a thumb screw with a clamping head. HTH

 

[amdx]

On 7/9/2019 11:19 AM, amdx wrote:

On 7/9/2019 10:08 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Mon, 8 Jul 2019 23:29:03 -0500, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:

Yes, that is the good part, the other one is bad, as in, missing the
rotating washer on the end. I managed to get find a washer of near
similar shape, and then the hole actually shrink to stay on the
thumbscrew when I got to match the original shape. Quite a lucky
sequence of events.

Methinks you'll find that the stock cone washer is somewhat harder
than the common flat washer.  The idea is to not deform the washer
when overtightening the screw.  Another possible will be to use the
adjusting screw and pad from an adjustable height steel work table:
https://images.globalindustrial.com/images/275x275/PG83051.jpg

  Yes, I think you are correct on the new cone deforming, my previous
fix was just a piece 1/16" aluminum between the wood and the end of the
thumbscrew. It worked fine.


I also found some beam clamps that will make a heavy duty table clamp,
if I decide to go that far.

My father had a Craftsman radial arm saw in the garage during the
1960's.  After a few incidents, he decided that I should not be
allowed to use it because it was inherently dangerous.  It had a rod
attached to the motor, with a swivel fork arrangement at the tip, that
was intended to prevent the workpiece from flying back into the
operators face due to "kickback".  It wasn't of much use for crosscut
work, but was useful for ripping, where the motor and blade were
rotated 90 degrees and the work could not be clamped to the table and
the anti-kickback kludge was useless.  Kinda like an inverted table
saw.  After a few board launches, he bought a real table saw.
Attaching the optional drill chuck to the motor and trying to use it
with a fly cutter turned out to be equally dangerous.


 I was on a carpentry forum looking for answers and they had quite a
discussion about the dangers of Radial Arm Saws. To the point some said
throw it out.
  I find it a very useful tool, for certain jobs and don't want to give
it up. Right now, all I want it for is to cut siding and soffit, I have
snips, miter saw, skilsaw, a siding knife and a table saw, but the
easiest to use for cutting siding is a Radial arm saw. (blade turned
backwards. If I had a sliding miter saw that would be my choice, but I
don't.

 New information to me!!!!
One thing I did learn on the saw forum was that for Radial arm saws you
want a Negative hook angle tooth. A positive hook angle tooth is, as
they describe it, grabby.
 Again forceful comments about the correct hook blade.
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?223617-saw-blade-for-radial-arm-saw


                              Mikek

You all will be relieved to know, my part problem is solved. While
talking with a buddy about replacing the tabletop on my RAS, he said I
have at tabletop that I took off of my RAS, He has a Craftsman that had
a safety recall, Craftsman sent him a new table, table brackets and new
blade shield.
So, when I picked up the tabletop, he said and look here, he had the
brackets with the table clamps I needed, and they were 1/4" not the
feeble 3/16" ones I have. Now If I can just get it aligned.
Mikek

 

[amdx]

On 7/10/2019 5:55 PM, alan.yeager.2013@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, July 8, 2019 at 12:43:53 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
Hi guys, I'm rebuilding my Radial Arm Saw, most the table, but need to
purchase the in this picture.
What is it called?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/unlyfrq5mq8q37q/RAS%20tensioner.jpg?dl=0


Thanks, Mike

I don't know the proper term for the whole thing but the threaded part in the middle is a barrel bolt cross dowel. The other part looks like a thumb screw with a clamping head. HTH

Well the barrel bolt cross dowel is darn close, it just needs a stud
out one end. And the thumb screw with a clamping head has some good hits.
I put both those terms into a Google image search, and it gives me
goose bumps when I think about how capitalism makes it possible to have
all of these millions of parts available, just because someone thinks
they can make a buck.
Reminds me of, "I, Pencil"
And a modified quote from "I, Pencil", the absence of a master mind,
of anyone dictating or forcibly directing these countless actions which
bring (all these millions of items) into being.
Mikek

P.S.
The story of "I, Pencil">
https://www.econlib.org/library/Essays/rdPncl.html?chapter_num=2#book-reader

I, Pencil related by Milton Friedman.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ERbC7JyCfU

 

On Thursday, 11 July 2019 03:30:42 UTC+1, amdx wrote:

Well the barrel bolt cross dowel is darn close, it just needs a stud
out one end. And the thumb screw with a clamping head has some good hits.
I put both those terms into a Google image search, and it gives me
goose bumps

from the sorts of images google will drag up from those search terms?


NT

 

[amdx]

On 7/11/2019 6:03 AM, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, 11 July 2019 03:30:42 UTC+1, amdx wrote:

Well the barrel bolt cross dowel is darn close, it just needs a stud
out one end. And the thumb screw with a clamping head has some good hits.
I put both those terms into a Google image search, and it gives me
goose bumps

from the sorts of images google will drag up from those search terms?


NT

Yup!
Mikek