Maytag model A106 washing machine repair

[Lenny]

Im in the process of replacing the transmission on my washing machine.
I got my parts in today and I got the the nut that holds the
washbasket right off with just a little coaxing. I didn't have to cut
it. I got the washbasket out ok but the allen screw on the stem is
set up tight.
After loosening the allen screw, the stem has to unscrew from the
transmission to get the tub out. We soaked the allen screw in
penetrating oil and tried tapping on the stem while cranking on the
allen wrench. We broke the first wrench and bent the second so I
figured I'd quit before I stripped the screw itself. I have
considered heating the surrounding area near the screw, (its either
white metal or aluminum), with a propane torch while pulling on the
wrench but if I should want, or have to rebuild the original trans
for some reason I don't want to burn, (no pun intended) any bridges
behind me. I also considered drilling the screw out but it seems to
be pretty hard material so that could be a scary proposition as well.
Does anyone know of any tricks to getting out a stubborn screw without
messing anything else up? Thanks very much, Lenny Stein.

 

[Sue D Nim]

Get some better hex wrenches.
Pack the screw area w/raw cotton saturated in PB Blaster (Wally's, A/Zone
etc.) o/night and try again.
The set screw is probably hardened and to drill it out you will need a
cobalt drill if the thing is too frozen.

 

[JR North]

Try over at rec.crafts.metalworking
JR

Lenny wrote:

Im in the process of replacing the transmission on my washing machine.
I got my parts in today and I got the the nut that holds the
washbasket right off with just a little coaxing. I didn't have to cut
it. I got the washbasket out ok but the allen screw on the stem is
set up tight.
After loosening the allen screw, the stem has to unscrew from the
transmission to get the tub out. We soaked the allen screw in
penetrating oil and tried tapping on the stem while cranking on the
allen wrench. We broke the first wrench and bent the second so I
figured I'd quit before I stripped the screw itself. I have
considered heating the surrounding area near the screw, (its either
white metal or aluminum), with a propane torch while pulling on the
wrench but if I should want, or have to rebuild the original trans
for some reason I don't want to burn, (no pun intended) any bridges
behind me. I also considered drilling the screw out but it seems to
be pretty hard material so that could be a scary proposition as well.
Does anyone know of any tricks to getting out a stubborn screw without
messing anything else up? Thanks very much, Lenny Stein.

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[Lenny]

I ended up heating it and it finally came out. Thanks for your response.
Lenny Stein.
"Sue D Nim" <jcool@softhome.net> wrote in message news:<UMXhc.25$JA5.4587@news.abs.net>...

Get some better hex wrenches.
Pack the screw area w/raw cotton saturated in PB Blaster (Wally's, A/Zone
etc.) o/night and try again.
The set screw is probably hardened and to drill it out you will need a
cobalt drill if the thing is too frozen.