Magnifying glass for smd components

J

Jack00

Guest
Does anyone know a magnifying glass that can be used for surface
mounted components as they are too small to see with a standard
magnifying glass. And also which amplification ie 2x 5x 10x 20x

Cheers
 
Jack00 wrote:
Does anyone know a magnifying glass that can be used for surface
mounted components as they are too small to see with a standard
magnifying glass. And also which amplification ie 2x 5x 10x 20x

Cheers

Jewelers' loupes. You can get a cheap set at
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-loupe-set-98722.html.
Set includes 2x, 3x, 5x, 7x, and 10x magnifying loupes, #3.99 US.
Search Google for "jewelers loupes" to find more sources.

--
David
dgminala at mediacombb dot net
 
On 1/14/2011 4:22 PM, Jack00 wrote:
Does anyone know a magnifying glass that can be used for surface
mounted components as they are too small to see with a standard
magnifying glass. And also which amplification ie 2x 5x 10x 20x
Depends on how fried your eyes are! :>

I use:
- 1.5, 2.0 and 3.0 diopter "illuminated reading glasses"
(depending on how close I need to work) for quick jobs
- a pair of prescription eyeglasses with a *pair* of
magnifying glasses that flip down on a ~3" arm for
a bit more involved work -- this has the advantage that
I can look up and read something in a book/monitor
without being forced to try to read *through* the
magnified image (but I have never encountered another
pair of these glasses so you'd have to resort to
something like a loupe that clips onto your existing
eyeglasses -- the problem is that most of those clip
on very *close* to your lenses)
- 0.7X to 30X (variable) stereoscope for more "involved"
work (e.g., inspecting *all* of the joints on a board)

I have found that adequate *light* is more important than
magnification (but that may just be the age of my eyes)
 
On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 15:22:26 -0800, Jack00 wrote:

Does anyone know a magnifying glass that can be used for surface mounted
components as they are too small to see with a standard magnifying
glass. And also which amplification ie 2x 5x 10x 20x

Cheers
A 20x stereo visor is what I've used for 20 years.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
 
Jack00 <SPal508596@aol.com> wrote in message
news:cb4d689d-d0b4-42ae-a5dc-1b288aa86ce4@a10g2000vby.googlegroups.com...
Does anyone know a magnifying glass that can be used for surface
mounted components as they are too small to see with a standard
magnifying glass. And also which amplification ie 2x 5x 10x 20x

Cheers
I usually use one of these
http://www.growhubhydroponics.com/images/Pocket_Microscope.jpg
with the transparent bit slid off. It has x30 and a goodly amount of
"headroom" between SMD and the lens.
If SMD lies right next to a large/deep lump on the pcb then a kids
microscope barrel with a large notch ground into the objective end, actually
ground into the plastic lens,
originally used for viewing VCR heads.
 
D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:

On 1/14/2011 4:22 PM, Jack00 wrote:
Does anyone know a magnifying glass that can be used for surface
mounted components as they are too small to see with a standard
magnifying glass. And also which amplification ie 2x 5x 10x 20x

Depends on how fried your eyes are! :

I use:
- 1.5, 2.0 and 3.0 diopter "illuminated reading glasses"
(depending on how close I need to work) for quick jobs
- a pair of prescription eyeglasses with a *pair* of
magnifying glasses that flip down on a ~3" arm for
a bit more involved work -- this has the advantage that
I can look up and read something in a book/monitor
without being forced to try to read *through* the
magnified image (but I have never encountered another
pair of these glasses so you'd have to resort to
something like a loupe that clips onto your existing
eyeglasses -- the problem is that most of those clip
on very *close* to your lenses)
- 0.7X to 30X (variable) stereoscope for more "involved"
work (e.g., inspecting *all* of the joints on a board)

I have found that adequate *light* is more important than
magnification (but that may just be the age of my eyes)
I can certainly empathise with that last paragraph. Good lighting is
very important. Particularly where identifying colors is required.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.
 
On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 17:52:51 +0000, the renowned Baron
<baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote:

D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:

On 1/14/2011 4:22 PM, Jack00 wrote:
Does anyone know a magnifying glass that can be used for surface
mounted components as they are too small to see with a standard
magnifying glass. And also which amplification ie 2x 5x 10x 20x

Depends on how fried your eyes are! :

I use:
- 1.5, 2.0 and 3.0 diopter "illuminated reading glasses"
(depending on how close I need to work) for quick jobs
- a pair of prescription eyeglasses with a *pair* of
magnifying glasses that flip down on a ~3" arm for
a bit more involved work -- this has the advantage that
I can look up and read something in a book/monitor
without being forced to try to read *through* the
magnified image (but I have never encountered another
pair of these glasses so you'd have to resort to
something like a loupe that clips onto your existing
eyeglasses -- the problem is that most of those clip
on very *close* to your lenses)
- 0.7X to 30X (variable) stereoscope for more "involved"
work (e.g., inspecting *all* of the joints on a board)

I have found that adequate *light* is more important than
magnification (but that may just be the age of my eyes)

I can certainly empathise with that last paragraph. Good lighting is
very important. Particularly where identifying colors is required.
I like to see >1000 lux general illumination, and more for task
lighting.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 
On 1/15/2011 10:52 AM, Baron wrote:
D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:
I have found that adequate *light* is more important than
magnification (but that may just be the age of my eyes)

I can certainly empathise with that last paragraph. Good lighting is
very important. Particularly where identifying colors is required.
I find that I need more than "good" :-/

I used to be able to read the markings on DIPs at arm's length
"with a glance". Now, I need to rock them back and forth to get
the light to reflect off them at the right angle before things
are visible (at times, I swear they have changed to BLACK INK!! :< )

Ditto for color codes. Seems like the colors have crept closer together
in the spectrum :-/
 
On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 15:22:26 -0800 (PST), Jack00 <SPal508596@aol.com>
wrote:

Does anyone know a magnifying glass that can be used for surface
mounted components as they are too small to see with a standard
magnifying glass. And also which amplification ie 2x 5x 10x 20x
There are plenty of optical instruments, microsocopes, and magnifiers
that can be used. For portable use, I have a small 10x pocket
magnifier I bought somewhere. Overchoice:
<http://www.pocketmagnifying.com>

However, that's not what I use on the bench. I butchered a USB camera
and what's left of a childrens microscope into a nifty magnifying
system. The LCD monitor displays the image and the computah can
capture the image if necessary. I suggest you just play with whatever
lenses you can scrounge and a USB camera and see what you can do.

What I use in my office is rather disgusting. I have a Luxo
magnifying lamp on the bench. The circular fluorescent light provides
really nice lighting. I put on a pair of 3 diopeter commodity
eyeglasses and shove my face up against the glass lens. I don't know
what magnification that offers, but it's good enough for all but the
smallest components. If I want more power, I have an Olympus BH
microscope.

Incidentally, I have a small camera ty-wrapped to my soldering iron.
The depth of field sucks, but it's amazingly useful once I retrained
myself to look at the screen and not at the work.

You can buy such USB microscope cameras on eBay or various web sites.
Just search for "USB microscope". Most of them are 100x to 400x but
there are a few with lower power or with zoom. For example, 10x to
200x:
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110499624122>



--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:

On 1/15/2011 10:52 AM, Baron wrote:
D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:
I have found that adequate *light* is more important than
magnification (but that may just be the age of my eyes)

I can certainly empathise with that last paragraph. Good lighting is
very important. Particularly where identifying colors is required.

I find that I need more than "good" :-/

I used to be able to read the markings on DIPs at arm's length
"with a glance". Now, I need to rock them back and forth to get
the light to reflect off them at the right angle before things
are visible (at times, I swear they have changed to BLACK INK!! :< )

Ditto for color codes. Seems like the colors have crept closer
together in the spectrum :-/
Yes colours have definitely become harder to read. I've used the "PTFE"
tape trick on IC's and SMD parts a number of times to read the
markings.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.
 
On 1/15/2011 2:08 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
However, that's not what I use on the bench. I butchered a USB camera
and what's left of a childrens microscope into a nifty magnifying
system. The LCD monitor displays the image and the computah can
capture the image if necessary. I suggest you just play with whatever
lenses you can scrounge and a USB camera and see what you can do.
I have a USB camera mounted on a gooseneck (manual focus) that
I can position over (one of) the stereoscope's eyepiece. Or,
use "unaided" to just examine boards/components. I can;t recall
who makes it -- it was from a "science" classroom intended to
let students examine bugs, minerals, anything under a microscope,
etc. I.e., *designed* for this sort of purpose (instead of as
a "web cam")
 
D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:

On 1/15/2011 2:08 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
However, that's not what I use on the bench. I butchered a USB
camera and what's left of a childrens microscope into a nifty
magnifying
system. The LCD monitor displays the image and the computah can
capture the image if necessary. I suggest you just play with
whatever lenses you can scrounge and a USB camera and see what you
can do.

I have a USB camera mounted on a gooseneck (manual focus) that
I can position over (one of) the stereoscope's eyepiece. Or,
use "unaided" to just examine boards/components. I can;t recall
who makes it -- it was from a "science" classroom intended to
let students examine bugs, minerals, anything under a microscope,
etc. I.e., *designed* for this sort of purpose (instead of as
a "web cam")
Veho ! Maybe !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.
 
On 1/15/2011 2:27 PM, Baron wrote:
D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:

On 1/15/2011 2:08 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
However, that's not what I use on the bench. I butchered a USB
camera and what's left of a childrens microscope into a nifty
magnifying
system. The LCD monitor displays the image and the computah can
capture the image if necessary. I suggest you just play with
whatever lenses you can scrounge and a USB camera and see what you
can do.

I have a USB camera mounted on a gooseneck (manual focus) that
I can position over (one of) the stereoscope's eyepiece. Or,
use "unaided" to just examine boards/components. I can;t recall
who makes it -- it was from a "science" classroom intended to
let students examine bugs, minerals, anything under a microscope,
etc. I.e., *designed* for this sort of purpose (instead of as
a "web cam")

Veho ! Maybe !
<frown> I did a quick google.images and didn't see anything that looked
like what I have. The gooseneck is *really* long. I.e., with the
base sitting on the table, the gooseneck extends high enough to get
*above* the stereoscope. Stereoscope is a minimum of 12" above the
table (in the full "down" position). Gooseneck easily reaches 18"
above the table (if you want the camera pointed *down* -- higher
if you can tolerate the camera pointed "sideways"... since the
gooseneck wouldn't have to double back on itself)

I'm in the middle of packing for a trip but will try to remember to
drag the camera out (it sits behind my LCD monitors and peeks *over*
them so it isn't easily accessible without moving stuff) and see
what the make/model is.
 
Baron <baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote in message
news:igt358$gkj$2@news.eternal-september.org...
D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:

On 1/15/2011 10:52 AM, Baron wrote:
D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:
I have found that adequate *light* is more important than
magnification (but that may just be the age of my eyes)

I can certainly empathise with that last paragraph. Good lighting is
very important. Particularly where identifying colors is required.

I find that I need more than "good" :-/

I used to be able to read the markings on DIPs at arm's length
"with a glance". Now, I need to rock them back and forth to get
the light to reflect off them at the right angle before things
are visible (at times, I swear they have changed to BLACK INK!! :< )

Ditto for color codes. Seems like the colors have crept closer
together in the spectrum :-/

Yes colours have definitely become harder to read. I've used the "PTFE"
tape trick on IC's and SMD parts a number of times to read the
markings.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

Shame I didn't patent that PTFE tip
 
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:2a14j6l982bbcbfofbrf9a6bug1rub9vv4@4ax.com...
On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 15:22:26 -0800 (PST), Jack00 <SPal508596@aol.com
wrote:

Does anyone know a magnifying glass that can be used for surface
mounted components as they are too small to see with a standard
magnifying glass. And also which amplification ie 2x 5x 10x 20x

There are plenty of optical instruments, microsocopes, and magnifiers
that can be used. For portable use, I have a small 10x pocket
magnifier I bought somewhere. Overchoice:
http://www.pocketmagnifying.com

However, that's not what I use on the bench. I butchered a USB camera
and what's left of a childrens microscope into a nifty magnifying
system. The LCD monitor displays the image and the computah can
capture the image if necessary. I suggest you just play with whatever
lenses you can scrounge and a USB camera and see what you can do.

What I use in my office is rather disgusting. I have a Luxo
magnifying lamp on the bench. The circular fluorescent light provides
really nice lighting. I put on a pair of 3 diopeter commodity
eyeglasses and shove my face up against the glass lens. I don't know
what magnification that offers, but it's good enough for all but the
smallest components. If I want more power, I have an Olympus BH
microscope.

Incidentally, I have a small camera ty-wrapped to my soldering iron.
The depth of field sucks, but it's amazingly useful once I retrained
myself to look at the screen and not at the work.

You can buy such USB microscope cameras on eBay or various web sites.
Just search for "USB microscope". Most of them are 100x to 400x but
there are a few with lower power or with zoom. For example, 10x to
200x:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110499624122



--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

I'll have to look into making a soldering-iron tip viewer , trying to use a
soldering iron under an illuminated inspection lamp can be a pain in some
circumstances.
 
"Baron" <baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote in message
news:igt358$gkj$2@news.eternal-september.org...
D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:

On 1/15/2011 10:52 AM, Baron wrote:
D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:
I have found that adequate *light* is more important than
magnification (but that may just be the age of my eyes)

I can certainly empathise with that last paragraph. Good lighting is
very important. Particularly where identifying colors is required.

I find that I need more than "good" :-/

I used to be able to read the markings on DIPs at arm's length
"with a glance". Now, I need to rock them back and forth to get
the light to reflect off them at the right angle before things
are visible (at times, I swear they have changed to BLACK INK!! :< )

Ditto for color codes. Seems like the colors have crept closer
together in the spectrum :-/

Yes colours have definitely become harder to read. I've used the "PTFE"
tape trick on IC's and SMD parts a number of times to read the
markings.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.
But bear in mind what I said on here a few weeks ago about how hard it is to
distinguish similar coloured bands under CFL light, due to the hugely
discontinuous spectrum that the stupid things put out ...

Arfa
 
On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 21:23:48 +0000, Baron
<baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote:

Yes colours have definitely become harder to read. I've used the "PTFE"
tape trick on IC's and SMD parts a number of times to read the
markings.
I often use my pocket LED flashing to provide extra illumination. It
has a built in holder, also known as my teeth.

So, what's the PTFE trick for reading IC and SMD markings? I couldn't
find anything with Google.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
Jeff Liebermann Inscribed thus:

On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 21:23:48 +0000, Baron
baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote:

Yes colours have definitely become harder to read. I've used the
"PTFE" tape trick on IC's and SMD parts a number of times to read the
markings.

I often use my pocket LED flashing to provide extra illumination. It
has a built in holder, also known as my teeth.

So, what's the PTFE trick for reading IC and SMD markings? I couldn't
find anything with Google.

Place a short length of plumbers ptfe tape over the surface and rub with
your fingernail.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.
 
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Baron <baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote in message
news:igt358$gkj$2@news.eternal-september.org...
D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:

On 1/15/2011 10:52 AM, Baron wrote:
D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:
I have found that adequate *light* is more important than
magnification (but that may just be the age of my eyes)

I can certainly empathise with that last paragraph. Good lighting
is very important. Particularly where identifying colors is
required.

I find that I need more than "good" :-/

I used to be able to read the markings on DIPs at arm's length
"with a glance". Now, I need to rock them back and forth to get
the light to reflect off them at the right angle before things
are visible (at times, I swear they have changed to BLACK INK!! :
)

Ditto for color codes. Seems like the colors have crept closer
together in the spectrum :-/

Yes colours have definitely become harder to read. I've used the
"PTFE" tape trick on IC's and SMD parts a number of times to read the
markings.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.


Shame I didn't patent that PTFE tip
It was probably you I pinched it from. :)

--
Best Regards:
Baron.
 
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:bnq4j61p5492udfbgq3t441f9eflnrckpa@4ax.com...
On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 21:23:48 +0000, Baron
baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote:

Yes colours have definitely become harder to read. I've used the "PTFE"
tape trick on IC's and SMD parts a number of times to read the
markings.

I often use my pocket LED flashing to provide extra illumination. It
has a built in holder, also known as my teeth.

So, what's the PTFE trick for reading IC and SMD markings? I couldn't
find anything with Google.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
In the archives of here as
TIP: How to read unreadable IC/transistor lettering
17 Dec 2007

How to read unreadable IC/transistor lettering
Yes, just like magic.
I could not read 3 of the 5 characters on a heat damaged TOP66 power
transistor.
I wondered if a sort of "brass rubbing" would work.
I just happened to have some plumber's PTFE tape to hand ( nominal 0.05 to
0.08 mm thick).
Laid a piece over the power tranny, rubbed with a finger nail, and the
missing characters
came up like magic.
As the characters remained on the PTFE, as an image , I realised you could
use this technique to read IC lettering where it is impossible to read,
because of constrictions and inability to introduce an inspection mirror or
even just
where you cannot get the illumination at just the right angle to read.
You need access space enough to introduce a piece of PTFE and then rub it
with the wooden end of a small artist's brush, or similar, wrapped in some
of the PTFE, so it rubs easily without dragging.
Don't rub too firmly because you want the relief print to show as clear and
the rest of the PTFE becoming translucent rather than the original white.
Remove and read with a backlight or against something matt black. Maybe a
couple of attempts to get a clear image in all parts of the label.
May even be worth trying on reverse-engineering-proofed, rubbed off, IC
lettering. Useful for indistinct moulding logos /
lettering etc on small plastic parts, gives some contrast.
Confirmed - this time a SIL IC with
the lettering side of the IC 2 mm from a large block cap. Would have
required 3 hours taking boards apart and back together to desolder just
to read.
Used a 1mm steel rod covered with some PTFE tape for the "rubbing" and
pulling
a length of PTFE tight around the IC through the gap,
and held tight while rubbing. I urge everyone to give it
a try, so it is impressed on memory for when required in earnest,
its just like magic


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm
 

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