Long end snips ?

[N_Cook]

Just to change a 1/4 inch socket and avoid taking the whole amp apart I
need to cut a nylon cable tie that is holding back the associated wires,
to extract the subboard with the socket on it.
Access is about 3/4 inch x 2.5 inch but 4 to 5 inches deep.
Usual end snips no good.
Tried heating a dental pick via a soldering iron, removing iron and
pushing against the nylon but more likely to melt the wiring insulation
than the nylon.
So far the best is a scalpel blade with a short cutting edge at the
leading point, rather than usual angled to the axis. Got about half way
through but then the tie moved.
Anyone got any other ideas?

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 04/30/2014 11:21 AM, N_Cook wrote:

Just to change a 1/4 inch socket and avoid taking the whole amp apart I
need to cut a nylon cable tie that is holding back the associated wires,
to extract the subboard with the socket on it.
Access is about 3/4 inch x 2.5 inch but 4 to 5 inches deep.
Usual end snips no good.
Tried heating a dental pick via a soldering iron, removing iron and
pushing against the nylon but more likely to melt the wiring insulation
than the nylon.
So far the best is a scalpel blade with a short cutting edge at the
leading point, rather than usual angled to the axis. Got about half way
through but then the tie moved.
Anyone got any other ideas?

Sickle-shaped scalpel blade. Hook it underneath and pull.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 04/30/2014 11:34 AM, Phil Hobbs wrote:

On 04/30/2014 11:21 AM, N_Cook wrote:
Just to change a 1/4 inch socket and avoid taking the whole amp apart I
need to cut a nylon cable tie that is holding back the associated wires,
to extract the subboard with the socket on it.
Access is about 3/4 inch x 2.5 inch but 4 to 5 inches deep.
Usual end snips no good.
Tried heating a dental pick via a soldering iron, removing iron and
pushing against the nylon but more likely to melt the wiring insulation
than the nylon.
So far the best is a scalpel blade with a short cutting edge at the
leading point, rather than usual angled to the axis. Got about half way
through but then the tie moved.
Anyone got any other ideas?

Sickle-shaped scalpel blade. Hook it underneath and pull.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

#12 is the right blade.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

 

[N_Cook]

Just remembered my old Stanley/Utility knife has some spare blades
inside it , one of which is a lino cutting blade. A visous phleme
looking blade with a backwards cutting edge and a point. If I bolt that
to a steel rod and pull, it should work. A job for tomorrow

 

[N_Cook]

On 30/04/2014 16:36, Phil Hobbs wrote:

On 04/30/2014 11:34 AM, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 04/30/2014 11:21 AM, N_Cook wrote:
Just to change a 1/4 inch socket and avoid taking the whole amp apart I
need to cut a nylon cable tie that is holding back the associated wires,
to extract the subboard with the socket on it.
Access is about 3/4 inch x 2.5 inch but 4 to 5 inches deep.
Usual end snips no good.
Tried heating a dental pick via a soldering iron, removing iron and
pushing against the nylon but more likely to melt the wiring insulation
than the nylon.
So far the best is a scalpel blade with a short cutting edge at the
leading point, rather than usual angled to the axis. Got about half way
through but then the tie moved.
Anyone got any other ideas?

Sickle-shaped scalpel blade. Hook it underneath and pull.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

#12 is the right blade.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

Just noticed your post, after my followup, similar idea.
The lino cutter blade has a much better rearwards facing cutting angle ,
and can be pushed in a pulled back, fully axially with no requirement
for tipping up the shaft.
similar to these
http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-5-utility-knife-hook-blades-37557.html

 

[N_Cook]

Another tool for my box labelled kit and jigs. Existing mounting hole in
the blade, in the wrong place and had to grind a hole through. Beware
you need fibre washers , not screw head tight to the square steel rod, I
snapped the first blade, a brittle form of steel.
Because of the lay of the wires, could not use the tool through the
viewing slot. But as the rod I used was a foot long, that went along in
another route, impossible to view down. Then still required a flat
screwdriver pushed against the lino blade, through the viewing slot, to
pull the blade through the nylon. 2 ground mounting slots and fixings
would have avoided the added screwdriver forcing but would not have
allowed rotation of the blade relative to the rod, then tighten the
screw, to get just the right angle of entry of the hook under the nylon.