LN40A530 Samsung LCD TV long to start...Capacitor issue ?

B

benitos

Guest
Hi ,

I have a LCD Samsung LN40A530 LCD TV that seems to have a capacitor
issue.

It takes 10 minutes to start.It`s getting worst with time.

I had checked all capacitors on the power supply board and they are
reading all good (value/ESR).

I even changed them and samething.

I have the service manual but there is no schematic and I don`t want
to change any board for nothing.

THe 5 Volts standby is OK. I read 5.2 volts.

Any idea ?
 
On Sunday, July 31, 2011 7:22:29 PM UTC-7, benitos wrote:
Hi ,

I have a LCD Samsung LN40A530 LCD TV that seems to have a capacitor
issue.

It takes 10 minutes to start.It`s getting worst with time.

I had checked all capacitors on the power supply board and they are
reading all good (value/ESR).

I even changed them and samething.

I have the service manual but there is no schematic and I don`t want
to change any board for nothing.

THe 5 Volts standby is OK. I read 5.2 volts.

Any idea ?
Click to expand...

Your symptoms are classic for bad caps and unlike a fine wine, this will not improve with age

Many times there is a small ceramic cap i parallel with the 'lytic cap that will cause the ESR meter to say it's OK when it isn't. If the meter says it's bad it very likely IS.

Over the years I've observed that when I find a certain value/Voltage that has one failure in a unit, any other identical caps should be replaced as well. Generally when you get to the point of replacing some caps it's a good idea to replace ALL the 'lytic caps. Once you have the unit open it would be silly to gamble and maybe have to do it again.

Personally I prefer SMT caps as they're quicker to remove. I treat through hole and SMT the same. I destroy the cap by cutting it apart and with through holes, cut the leads on the component side down to the board with a flush cutter and the use an old solder sucker to pull the lead out the solder side. Remember to clean off any acid residue before installing the new caps and then the flux when you're done.

Also BUY THE BEST CAPS YOU CAN FIND. Your tine us way more expensive than even the best caps. DigiKey, Mouser, Newark and Allied carry good stuff. I usually use DigiKey because their website is more complete than the others and I generally get Panasonic caps looking for highest ripple current, highest hour and temperature.

G˛
 
On 6/9/2014 11:34 PM, stratus46@yahoo.com wrote:
On Sunday, July 31, 2011 7:22:29 PM UTC-7, benitos wrote:
Hi ,

I have a LCD Samsung LN40A530 LCD TV that seems to have a capacitor
issue.

It takes 10 minutes to start.It`s getting worst with time.

I had checked all capacitors on the power supply board and they are
reading all good (value/ESR).

I even changed them and samething.

I have the service manual but there is no schematic and I don`t want
to change any board for nothing.

THe 5 Volts standby is OK. I read 5.2 volts.

Any idea ?

Your symptoms are classic for bad caps and unlike a fine wine, this will not improve with age

Many times there is a small ceramic cap i parallel with the 'lytic cap that will cause the ESR meter to say it's OK when it isn't. If the meter says it's bad it very likely IS.

Over the years I've observed that when I find a certain value/Voltage that has one failure in a unit, any other identical caps should be replaced as well. Generally when you get to the point of replacing some caps it's a good idea to replace ALL the 'lytic caps. Once you have the unit open it would be silly to gamble and maybe have to do it again.

Personally I prefer SMT caps as they're quicker to remove. I treat through hole and SMT the same. I destroy the cap by cutting it apart and with through holes, cut the leads on the component side down to the board with a flush cutter and the use an old solder sucker to pull the lead out the solder side. Remember to clean off any acid residue before installing the new caps and then the flux when you're done.

Also BUY THE BEST CAPS YOU CAN FIND. Your tine us way more expensive than even the best caps. DigiKey, Mouser, Newark and Allied carry good stuff. I usually use DigiKey because their website is more complete than the others and I generally get Panasonic caps looking for highest ripple current, highest hour and temperature.

G˛
Click to expand...
I've found the best test for caps is to stick a scope across them and
see what's happening to the voltage.
Isn't hard to tell if that node has an issue. If there are multiple
caps, it won't tell you which, but change 'em all anyway.

One thing that most people don't seem to realize is that a bad cap can
let the
voltage go WAY HIGH. If you're switching down from 20V to 3.3V, you can get
20V spikes on that node with bad caps.
I've had monitors DIE from the spikes.

The result of all that is...
Turn the thing off till you fix it. It may work after
10 minutes this time, but, eventually you may kill it.
 
"mike" <ham789@netzero.net> wrote in message

news:ln8kcu$us6$1@dont-email.me...

On 6/9/2014 11:34 PM, stratus46@yahoo.com wrote:

On Sunday, July 31, 2011 7:22:29 PM UTC-7, benitos wrote:

Hi ,

I have a LCD Samsung LN40A530 LCD TV that seems to have a capacitor

issue.

It takes 10 minutes to start.It`s getting worst with time.

I had checked all capacitors on the power supply board and they are

reading all good (value/ESR).

I even changed them and samething.

I have the service manual but there is no schematic and I don`t want
Click to expand...

On Wednesday, June 11, 2014 7:12:43 AM UTC-4, Mark Zacharias wrote:
People over-do the bad cap thing - but this one is easy.


Yes, it's the caps. Replace any that appear bulged at the top. The rest are

probably OK for the next several years at least.
Click to expand...

This thread is 3 years old, but I'll bet the problem was not the power supply. I have had to rebuild dozens of Samsung main boards to solve this problem (and no, it's not caps).

The easy way to identify this is to remove the main, pre-heat it away from the TV with a heat gun or hair dryer, then reinstall. If it starts immediately, the main is the problem.
 
"mike" <ham789@netzero.net> wrote in message
news:ln8kcu$us6$1@dont-email.me...
On 6/9/2014 11:34 PM, stratus46@yahoo.com wrote:
On Sunday, July 31, 2011 7:22:29 PM UTC-7, benitos wrote:
Hi ,

I have a LCD Samsung LN40A530 LCD TV that seems to have a capacitor
issue.

It takes 10 minutes to start.It`s getting worst with time.

I had checked all capacitors on the power supply board and they are
reading all good (value/ESR).

I even changed them and samething.

I have the service manual but there is no schematic and I don`t want
to change any board for nothing.

THe 5 Volts standby is OK. I read 5.2 volts.

Any idea ?

Your symptoms are classic for bad caps and unlike a fine wine, this will
not improve with age

Many times there is a small ceramic cap i parallel with the 'lytic cap
that will cause the ESR meter to say it's OK when it isn't. If the meter
says it's bad it very likely IS.

Over the years I've observed that when I find a certain value/Voltage
that has one failure in a unit, any other identical caps should be
replaced as well. Generally when you get to the point of replacing some
caps it's a good idea to replace ALL the 'lytic caps. Once you have the
unit open it would be silly to gamble and maybe have to do it again.

Personally I prefer SMT caps as they're quicker to remove. I treat
through hole and SMT the same. I destroy the cap by cutting it apart and
with through holes, cut the leads on the component side down to the board
with a flush cutter and the use an old solder sucker to pull the lead out
the solder side. Remember to clean off any acid residue before installing
the new caps and then the flux when you're done.

Also BUY THE BEST CAPS YOU CAN FIND. Your tine us way more expensive than
even the best caps. DigiKey, Mouser, Newark and Allied carry good stuff.
I usually use DigiKey because their website is more complete than the
others and I generally get Panasonic caps looking for highest ripple
current, highest hour and temperature.

G˛

I've found the best test for caps is to stick a scope across them and see
what's happening to the voltage.
Isn't hard to tell if that node has an issue. If there are multiple
caps, it won't tell you which, but change 'em all anyway.

One thing that most people don't seem to realize is that a bad cap can let
the
voltage go WAY HIGH. If you're switching down from 20V to 3.3V, you can
get
20V spikes on that node with bad caps.
I've had monitors DIE from the spikes.

The result of all that is...
Turn the thing off till you fix it. It may work after
10 minutes this time, but, eventually you may kill it.
Click to expand...

People over-do the bad cap thing - but this one is easy.

Yes, it's the caps. Replace any that appear bulged at the top. The rest are
probably OK for the next several years at least.

Use high quality low-esr types.

I agree it's potentially damaging to keep using it.

Mark Z.
 
"John-Del" <ohger1s@aol.com> wrote in message
news:10a95749-a539-4e09-bfb3-0ede67320583@googlegroups.com...
"mike" <ham789@netzero.net> wrote in message

news:ln8kcu$us6$1@dont-email.me...

On 6/9/2014 11:34 PM, stratus46@yahoo.com wrote:

On Sunday, July 31, 2011 7:22:29 PM UTC-7, benitos wrote:

Hi ,

I have a LCD Samsung LN40A530 LCD TV that seems to have a capacitor

issue.

It takes 10 minutes to start.It`s getting worst with time.

I had checked all capacitors on the power supply board and they are

reading all good (value/ESR).

I even changed them and samething.

I have the service manual but there is no schematic and I don`t want


On Wednesday, June 11, 2014 7:12:43 AM UTC-4, Mark Zacharias wrote:
People over-do the bad cap thing - but this one is easy.


Yes, it's the caps. Replace any that appear bulged at the top. The rest
are

probably OK for the next several years at least.



This thread is 3 years old, but I'll bet the problem was not the power
supply. I have had to rebuild dozens of Samsung main boards to solve this
problem (and no, it's not caps).

The easy way to identify this is to remove the main, pre-heat it away from
the TV with a heat gun or hair dryer, then reinstall. If it starts
immediately, the main is the problem.
Click to expand...

Authorized Samsung servicer. The exact symptom given is well-known.

It was the caps, I've no doubt.

"rebuilding the main board" - I doubt it.
 
On Wednesday, June 11, 2014 10:46:50 PM UTC-4, Mark Zacharias wrote:


Authorized Samsung servicer. The exact symptom given is well-known.


It was the caps, I've no doubt.
Click to expand...

No doubt eh? Here's what the OP said: "I had checked all capacitors on the power supply board and they are reading all good (value/ESR). I even *changed* them and same thing."

Tell me Mark; how many times would you change the same capacitors before finally conceding they weren't the problem?


"rebuilding the main board" - I doubt it.
Click to expand...

I've recapped thousands of Samsung power supplies, and have had a few dozen main boards in the MX10 series that would have the exact same symptom (slow start, cycling, better when warm). If you're a Nesda member (doubt it), you'll find the solution to stubborn Samsung MX mains there. Most professional servicers won't put every solution to a problem on youtube. I'm no exception.
 
"John-Del" <ohger1s@aol.com> wrote in message
news:c3f3a1df-387f-4cc7-91b9-24a50b7545b3@googlegroups.com...
On Wednesday, June 11, 2014 10:46:50 PM UTC-4, Mark Zacharias wrote:


Authorized Samsung servicer. The exact symptom given is well-known.


It was the caps, I've no doubt.
Click to expand...

No doubt eh? Here's what the OP said: "I had checked all capacitors on
the power supply board and they are reading all good (value/ESR). I even
*changed* them and same thing."

Tell me Mark; how many times would you change the same capacitors before
finally conceding they weren't the problem?


"rebuilding the main board" - I doubt it.
Click to expand...

I've recapped thousands of Samsung power supplies, and have had a few dozen
main boards in the MX10 series that would have the exact same symptom (slow
start, cycling, better when warm). If you're a Nesda member (doubt it),
you'll find the solution to stubborn Samsung MX mains there. Most
professional servicers won't put every solution to a problem on youtube.
I'm no exception.


**************************************************************************
Excuse the skepticism. I've seen my share of main boards, even after
replacing the defective caps. Generally just replace the boards, though.
"thousands" of power supplies might be overstating it just a bit, though...

mz
 
"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@labolgcbs.net> wrote in message
news:539a53fc$0$60892$862e30e2@ngroups.net...
"John-Del" <ohger1s@aol.com> wrote in message
news:c3f3a1df-387f-4cc7-91b9-24a50b7545b3@googlegroups.com...
On Wednesday, June 11, 2014 10:46:50 PM UTC-4, Mark Zacharias wrote:



Authorized Samsung servicer. The exact symptom given is well-known.


It was the caps, I've no doubt.


No doubt eh? Here's what the OP said: "I had checked all capacitors on
the power supply board and they are reading all good (value/ESR). I even
*changed* them and same thing."

Tell me Mark; how many times would you change the same capacitors before
finally conceding they weren't the problem?



"rebuilding the main board" - I doubt it.

I've recapped thousands of Samsung power supplies, and have had a few
dozen main boards in the MX10 series that would have the exact same
symptom (slow start, cycling, better when warm). If you're a Nesda member
(doubt it), you'll find the solution to stubborn Samsung MX mains there.
Most professional servicers won't put every solution to a problem on
youtube. I'm no exception.


**************************************************************************
Excuse the skepticism. I've seen my share of main boards, even after
replacing the defective caps. Generally just replace the boards, though.
"thousands" of power supplies might be overstating it just a bit,
though...

mz
Click to expand...

Sorry about that - I must have been too lazy reading the original post.

Appearances to the contrary notwithstanding, I'm really not a troll looking
for arguments.

I would not, however, repeatedly change caps if the main board was
indicated. In fact, the caps would probably only get replaced in that
situation if Samsung were covering it, which they were until recently. Then
the caps, and if indicated the whole power supply gets replaced on Samsung's
dime, and informing the customer there might still be a problem after those
parts replaced.

Sometimes the whole supply fixes their issue even when I did not expect it
to.

Dropped out of Nesda a decade ago. Maybe should not have; at the time there
was no value for the stuff I was working on.

Not too interested in trying to fix main boards when they are often
available at reduced prices from Union Electronics, ShopJimmy, and others.
Often as low as 20 to 30 bucks for a pull.

Besides, my focus is audio. I just want to get the stuff running and get on
to the next job.

Later.


mz
 
John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com> wrote:
On Wednesday, June 11, 2014 10:46:50 PM UTC-4, Mark Zacharias wrote:



Authorized Samsung servicer. The exact symptom given is well-known.


It was the caps, I've no doubt.


No doubt eh? Here's what the OP said: "I had checked all capacitors on the power supply board and they are reading all good (value/ESR). I even *changed* them and same thing."

Tell me Mark; how many times would you change the same capacitors before finally conceding they weren't the problem?



"rebuilding the main board" - I doubt it.

I've recapped thousands of Samsung power supplies, and have had a few dozen main boards in the MX10 series that would have the exact same symptom (slow start, cycling, better when warm). If you're a Nesda member (doubt it), you'll find the solution to stubborn Samsung MX mains there. Most professional servicers won't put every solution to a problem on youtube. I'm no exception.
Click to expand...

haven't heard about NESDA in a while.

Do they have any members that are not within 5 years of retiring?
 
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