Kodak Z650 6Mp digital camera

N

N_Cook

Guest
Owner put 9V on the 3.3V input, is there much chance of being VTS + fuse
protection or rescuable similar or all active kaput?
 
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:hdecff$i7j$1@news.eternal-september.org...
Owner put 9V on the 3.3V input, is there much chance of being VTS + fuse
protection or rescuable similar or all active kaput?
Click to expand...
3V input

7 presumably fuses found, 1.8 x 0.8mm with black letters over a white
central square
F001,S
F101 K
F102 S
103 N
104 N
105 S
106 K

104 and 106 are open,
so do the letters mean as Schurter SM fuse letter codes
0.375 Amp E
0.5 Amp F
0.75 Amp G
1 Amp H
1.25 Amp J
1.5 Amp K
2 Amp N
2.5 Amp O
3 Amp P
4 Amp S

I suppose temporarily replace with whatever of that rating and power up on
1V initially and see what happens on draw current then replace properly if
no other problem



--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 
At least 3 types of ZIF Kapton Polyimide ? ribbon sockets . 2 types I've
come across but the CCD one is ground planed stripline form of 34 conductors
with staggered interlaced lands at the socket so 2 lines of 17 on one side.
At the time I thought there was a moveable closure but further inspection
I'm not sure. Came out with some retaining force so not ZIF perhaps but not
fully clamped like usual ZIF ones when locked in. Under microscope it ooks
like individual pressure wedge tongues for closure force, is it a matter of
usual reinforcement with some cloth tape wrapped around ribbon and then
forcing back in ?
 
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:hdghi0$lb7$1@news.eternal-september.org...
At least 3 types of ZIF Kapton Polyimide ? ribbon sockets . 2 types I've
come across but the CCD one is ground planed stripline form of 34
conductors
with staggered interlaced lands at the socket so 2 lines of 17 on one
side.
At the time I thought there was a moveable closure but further inspection
I'm not sure. Came out with some retaining force so not ZIF perhaps but
not
fully clamped like usual ZIF ones when locked in. Under microscope it ooks
like individual pressure wedge tongues for closure force, is it a matter
of
usual reinforcement with some cloth tape wrapped around ribbon and then
forcing back in ?
Click to expand...
Getting a white LED light into the slot and veiwing with a microscope, there
are 2 sets of curved brass contacts, I could not see the recessed set of 17
before, so low force rather than zero force. the fingers are just alignment
I think . Will make some sort of alignment jig, to keep ribbon parallel
either to top of connector or the pcb, before replacing that one .
 
Anyone know the likely current drain from 3V battery for a digital camera?
Replaced as 1.5A and 2A fuses and taken BAT+ up to 1.8V, 1.5A supply and no
signs of life.
F001 , rated S so perhaps 4 amp rating is the overall supply fuse, not blown
previously so presumably I could try up to 4 amp. I assume its now a matter
of finding a crowbar device somewhere connected to the 2 previous blown
fuses . At least a diode in line with the bat+ line but not traced on
visible surface of boards
 
On Tue, 17 Nov 2009 12:21:13 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
wrote:

Anyone know the likely current drain from 3V battery for a digital camera?
Replaced as 1.5A and 2A fuses and taken BAT+ up to 1.8V, 1.5A supply and no
signs of life.
Click to expand...
I doubt you'll see life until you get much closer to the design
voltage (3.x volts). Until then the power supply/control circuits are
likely keeping it off to prevent undervoltage problems.

What are the battery specifications (output MA)? That would be a good
starting point: the camera would certainly not draw more than that
amount of current.


F001 , rated S so perhaps 4 amp rating is the overall supply fuse, not blown
previously so presumably I could try up to 4 amp. I assume its now a matter
of finding a crowbar device somewhere connected to the 2 previous blown
fuses . At least a diode in line with the bat+ line but not traced on
visible surface of boards
Click to expand...
 
PeterD <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
news:nfb5g5986jl1ecbnoo39hjg3qrpml7u585@4ax.com...
On Tue, 17 Nov 2009 12:21:13 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk
wrote:

Anyone know the likely current drain from 3V battery for a digital
camera?
Replaced as 1.5A and 2A fuses and taken BAT+ up to 1.8V, 1.5A supply and
no
signs of life.

I doubt you'll see life until you get much closer to the design
voltage (3.x volts). Until then the power supply/control circuits are
likely keeping it off to prevent undervoltage problems.

What are the battery specifications (output MA)? That would be a good
starting point: the camera would certainly not draw more than that
amount of current.


F001 , rated S so perhaps 4 amp rating is the overall supply fuse, not
blown
previously so presumably I could try up to 4 amp. I assume its now a
matter
of finding a crowbar device somewhere connected to the 2 previous blown
fuses . At least a diode in line with the bat+ line but not traced on
visible surface of boards
Click to expand...
At the moment I'm following the heat.
Component marking
XR
5
F1
on the now accessed reverse side of the board,
perhaps 5V VTS designed to short , next job after scripting this , to try
and identify.
looks suspicious at the moment as far as heat is concerned and 2 apparent
supplies (separate traces) at switched rail voltage? fuse voltage common
anyway. Powered up for a few seconds to 2.5 amp 2.1V Bat+ on F001 and 2.0V
on all fuses, wheras cold testing there is 0.6 V diode test between them.
Main on/off sw is inactive as far as current drain being continuous, no
change on main sw setting
 
PeterD <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
news:nfb5g5986jl1ecbnoo39hjg3qrpml7u585@4ax.com...
On Tue, 17 Nov 2009 12:21:13 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk
wrote:

Anyone know the likely current drain from 3V battery for a digital
camera?
Replaced as 1.5A and 2A fuses and taken BAT+ up to 1.8V, 1.5A supply and
no
signs of life.

I doubt you'll see life until you get much closer to the design
voltage (3.x volts). Until then the power supply/control circuits are
likely keeping it off to prevent undervoltage problems.

What are the battery specifications (output MA)? That would be a good
starting point: the camera would certainly not draw more than that
amount of current.


F001 , rated S so perhaps 4 amp rating is the overall supply fuse, not
blown
previously so presumably I could try up to 4 amp. I assume its now a
matter
of finding a crowbar device somewhere connected to the 2 previous blown
fuses . At least a diode in line with the bat+ line but not traced on
visible surface of boards
Click to expand...
second attempt

At the moment I'm following the heat.
Component marking
XR
5
F1
perhaps 5V VTS designed to short next job after scripting this , to try and
identify,
looks suspicious at the moment as far as heat is concerned and 2 apparent
supplies (separate traces) at switched rail voltage? fuse voltage common
anyway. Powered up for a few seconds to 2.1V Bat+ on F001 and 2.0V on all
fuses, wheras cold testing there is 0.6 V diode test between them
 
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:hduddt$vv5$1@news.eternal-september.org...
PeterD <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
news:nfb5g5986jl1ecbnoo39hjg3qrpml7u585@4ax.com...
On Tue, 17 Nov 2009 12:21:13 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk
wrote:

Anyone know the likely current drain from 3V battery for a digital
camera?
Replaced as 1.5A and 2A fuses and taken BAT+ up to 1.8V, 1.5A supply
and
no
signs of life.

I doubt you'll see life until you get much closer to the design
voltage (3.x volts). Until then the power supply/control circuits are
likely keeping it off to prevent undervoltage problems.

What are the battery specifications (output MA)? That would be a good
starting point: the camera would certainly not draw more than that
amount of current.


F001 , rated S so perhaps 4 amp rating is the overall supply fuse, not
blown
previously so presumably I could try up to 4 amp. I assume its now a
matter
of finding a crowbar device somewhere connected to the 2 previous blown
fuses . At least a diode in line with the bat+ line but not traced on
visible surface of boards


second attempt

At the moment I'm following the heat.
Component marking
XR
5
F1
perhaps 5V VTS designed to short next job after scripting this , to try
and
identify,
looks suspicious at the moment as far as heat is concerned and 2 apparent
supplies (separate traces) at switched rail voltage? fuse voltage common
anyway. Powered up for a few seconds to 2.1V Bat+ on F001 and 2.0V on all
fuses, wheras cold testing there is 0.6 V diode test between them
Click to expand...
I don't suppose Exar have a list of topcodes anywhere
 
The SOT235 , 5 pin SM, topcode XR 5 F1 is probably a buck boost, an inductor
connects the 3V line to another of its pins. No Exar SOT235/SOT23-5 package
buck boost data found so far. Putting a 0.5 amp limited 3V supply to the
fuses on this board only, 2 ribbons disconnected to other areas, then
current drain is 60 to 90mA. I cannot decide whether to try reconnecting all
and powering from 3V, 4 amp or tracing back to wherever the main power
switch is. Switching main sw on/off/on made no difference to the large 2V
current drain
 
With the 3 boards connected and some of the ribbons disconnected inc LCD and
backlight but not necessarily its inverter if inside that unit and "viewer"
n/c but CCD connected.
Gradually increased to 3V and 1.83 amp consumption on 2.5 amp limited
supply, so now check a few voltages and then reconnect everything and try
again
 
On Wed, 18 Nov 2009 12:52:46 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
wrote:

With the 3 boards connected and some of the ribbons disconnected inc LCD and
backlight but not necessarily its inverter if inside that unit and "viewer"
n/c but CCD connected.
Gradually increased to 3V and 1.83 amp consumption on 2.5 amp limited
supply, so now check a few voltages and then reconnect everything and try
again
Click to expand...
Don't forget that there may be high initial current for housekeeping.
Several cameras that I own, when you install batteries, do a shutdown
cycle immediately (retract lens/or cover it, etc.) to put the camera
in a known state.
 
What maybe a motor driver chip (only a Google hint) , 52 pin M50236HP heats
up 8 degree C in 15 seconds so looks like the end . Unlikely to be a power
management IC, cannot find a datasheet onlt the usual crap www stuff. Had to
glue a SM 1N4148 to it and remote monitor via diode test, as on the wrong
side of the board. It only took a second for forward voltage to drop the
first mV.
 
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