Kenmore Microwave Oven - 2 failures in 2 years

R

RF

Guest
Hi Experts,

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in 2 years.
Both times it blew there was a pop, then a smell of overheated plastic
and then a loud hum. I took it to Sears the first time and they replaced
the
diode. It then worked fine though it had very small usage.

Now is the second time and it is off the warranty. I opened up the oven
case and
quickly found the diode. It has the marker T3512 and H6N below it. One
end of the
diode has two silver bands around it. It doesn't look overheated.

The area near this diode has a magnetron coupled with 2 wires to a trafo and
one to a capacitor which continues through the diode to ground. A third
wire on
the trafo goes to the second terminal of the capacitor.

If I could have this diode identified , I'd greatly appreciate it.

TIA
 
On Oct 15, 8:13 pm, RF <R...@NoDen.con> wrote:
Hi Experts,

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in 2 years.
Both times it blew there was a pop, then a smell of overheated plastic
and then a loud hum. I took it to Sears the first time and they replaced
the
diode. It then worked fine though it had  very small usage.

Now is the second time and it is off the warranty. I opened up the oven
case and
quickly found the diode. It has the marker T3512 and H6N below it. One
end of the
diode has two silver bands around it. It doesn't look overheated.

The area near this diode has a magnetron coupled with 2 wires to a trafo and
one to a capacitor which continues through the diode to ground. A third
wire on
the trafo goes to the second terminal of the capacitor.

If I could have this diode identified , I'd greatly appreciate it.

TIA
Click to expand...
It appears this might be a Sears Kenmore Microwave, but not positively
identified as such.
 
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:
On Oct 15, 8:13 pm, RF <R...@NoDen.con> wrote:
Hi Experts,

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in 2 years.
Both times it blew there was a pop, then a smell of overheated plastic
and then a loud hum. I took it to Sears the first time and they replaced
the
diode. It then worked fine though it had very small usage.

Now is the second time and it is off the warranty. I opened up the oven
case and
quickly found the diode. It has the marker T3512 and H6N below it. One
end of the
diode has two silver bands around it. It doesn't look overheated.

The area near this diode has a magnetron coupled with 2 wires to a trafo and
one to a capacitor which continues through the diode to ground. A third
wire on
the trafo goes to the second terminal of the capacitor.

If I could have this diode identified , I'd greatly appreciate it.

TIA

It appears this might be a Sears Kenmore Microwave, but not positively
identified as such.
Click to expand...
Mr Bob, I personally bought it originally from Sears. It was probably
made in China
or at least many of the parts were.
 
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:13:10 -0700, RF <RF@NoDen.con> wrote:

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in 2 years.
Click to expand...
Go unto:
<http://www3.sears.com>
and inscribe 721.63252301 into the search box. It should point to
exploded view diagrams with part numbers.
<http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=721.63252301>

The diode is rather generic and commonly available:
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380157469830>
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260436360616>
12Kv 350ma



--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:13:10 -0700, RF <RF@NoDen.con>wrote:

Hi Experts,

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in 2 years.
Both times it blew there was a pop, then a smell of overheated plastic
and then a loud hum. I took it to Sears the first time and they replaced
the
diode. It then worked fine though it had very small usage.

Now is the second time and it is off the warranty. I opened up the oven
case and
quickly found the diode. It has the marker T3512 and H6N below it. One
end of the
diode has two silver bands around it. It doesn't look overheated.

The area near this diode has a magnetron coupled with 2 wires to a trafo and
one to a capacitor which continues through the diode to ground. A third
wire on
the trafo goes to the second terminal of the capacitor.

If I could have this diode identified , I'd greatly appreciate it.

TIA
Click to expand...
Replace the cap, diode and mag. Tear the cover off and inspect the
waveguide, stirrer and outlet covering for arcing. Check the interior
for arcing. Watch the cap it can bite you. Have a micro detector and
check for leaking door and overall leaks.

Or just buy a new oven.

Best for the buck in my opinion is the GE 1100 watt or Sharp.
 
"RF" <RF@NoDen.con> wrote in message
news:7jpvibF36f9v2U1@mid.individual.net...
Hi Experts,

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in
2 years.

[bla bla bla]
Click to expand...

Didn't we just do this (Kenmore bellyup 2 times x 2 years) to
death on 9/27 and now it is back ?

Re: Kenmore Microwave Oven goes belly up - twice in 2 years.

In article <7i9o3fF2vsqsoU1@mid.individual.net>,
"Jon Danniken" <jondanSPAMniken@yaSPAMhoo.com> wrote:
"Jon Danniken" wrote:
RF wrote:
Click to expand...
I mean damn.... alot of good people gave lots of great answers
and here it is re-posted anew ?
it is very insulting to those people who gave their time and help
to repost the whole damn lot with no new question and apparently
no work to look at the schemats and links given to the OP.

let me guess ... you didn't like the answers so you went and
found some appliance repair portal that just redirects the
questions back to usenet (s.e.r) ? oh no looks like you just
took it out of (alt.home.repair) and added it to (s.e.e)

next try alt.energy.high-voltage.magnetron

did you thank anybody the first time... for their time

sigh...
 
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:13:10 -0700, RF <RF@NoDen.con> wrote:

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in 2 years.

Go unto:
http://www3.sears.com
and inscribe 721.63252301 into the search box. It should point to
exploded view diagrams with part numbers.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=721.63252301

The diode is rather generic and commonly available:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380157469830
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260436360616
12Kv 350ma
Click to expand...
Thanks Jeff for the links.

That looks like a very good solution. Will check it out :)
 
robb wrote:
"RF" <RF@NoDen.con> wrote in message
news:7jpvibF36f9v2U1@mid.individual.net...
Hi Experts,

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in
2 years.
[bla bla bla]

Didn't we just do this (Kenmore bellyup 2 times x 2 years) to
death on 9/27 and now it is back ?
Click to expand...
That was just an examination for that newsgroup and the scores
were a bit low, so I had to try for the professionals :)


Re: Kenmore Microwave Oven goes belly up - twice in 2 years.

In article <7i9o3fF2vsqsoU1@mid.individual.net>,
"Jon Danniken" <jondanSPAMniken@yaSPAMhoo.com> wrote:
"Jon Danniken" wrote:
RF wrote:

I mean damn.... alot of good people gave lots of great answers
and here it is re-posted anew ?
it is very insulting to those people who gave their time and help
to repost the whole damn lot with no new question and apparently
no work to look at the schemats and links given to the OP.
Click to expand...
As I mentioned above, the professionals are the ones to go to.

let me guess ... you didn't like the answers so you went and
found some appliance repair portal that just redirects the
questions back to usenet (s.e.r) ? oh no looks like you just
took it out of (alt.home.repair) and added it to (s.e.e)
Click to expand...
Wrong, wrong and wrong. I relied on that oven purely to boil
water and, because I have numerous other appliances, there
was no rush and I'm still in no rush.

next try alt.energy.high-voltage.magnetron

did you thank anybody the first time... for their time
Click to expand...
Very near the end of the thread I wrote:

"Thanks to all for your efforts.

I have ordered Diode A ($16 incl shipping)and now
I am waiting for the sparks to fly :) "

Use your glasses next time.


sigh...
Click to expand...
 
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:
On Oct 15, 8:13 pm, RF <R...@NoDen.con> wrote:
Hi Experts,

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in 2 years.
Both times it blew there was a pop, then a smell of overheated plastic
and then a loud hum. I took it to Sears the first time and they replaced
the
diode. It then worked fine though it had very small usage.

Now is the second time and it is off the warranty. I opened up the oven
case and
quickly found the diode. It has the marker T3512 and H6N below it. One
end of the
diode has two silver bands around it. It doesn't look overheated.

The area near this diode has a magnetron coupled with 2 wires to a trafo and
one to a capacitor which continues through the diode to ground. A third
wire on
the trafo goes to the second terminal of the capacitor.

If I could have this diode identified , I'd greatly appreciate it.

TIA

It appears this might be a Sears Kenmore Microwave, but not positively
identified as such.
Click to expand...
I forgot to ask if you looked at the subject line:

Kenmore Microwave Oven - 2 failures in 2 years
 
On Fri, 16 Oct 2009 15:27:23 -0700, RF <RF@NoDen.con> wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:13:10 -0700, RF <RF@NoDen.con> wrote:

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in 2 years.

Go unto:
http://www3.sears.com
and inscribe 721.63252301 into the search box. It should point to
exploded view diagrams with part numbers.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=721.63252301

The diode is rather generic and commonly available:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380157469830
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260436360616
12Kv 350ma

Thanks Jeff for the links.
That looks like a very good solution. Will check it out :)
Click to expand...
You might wanna look into a diode with better ratings. I see 15Kv
500ma diodes available in the same form factor.

As Mr Meat Plow mumbled, check for arcing. The snapping noise you
heard may have been arcing in the waveguide or maggot-tron. You can
usually see some evidence of the burn like damage on the waveguide
walls. If you have it apart, it's easy to inspect (with a dental
mirror). I must be leading a charmed life, but I've only seen arcing
twice. Both were caused by a bad fit between the waveguide and the
maggot-tron causing high VSWR and thus high voltages. You might want
to check if everything is assembled correctly and fits tight.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
 
On Fri, 16 Oct 2009 19:22:01 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
<jeffl@cruzio.com>wrote:

On Fri, 16 Oct 2009 15:27:23 -0700, RF <RF@NoDen.con> wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:13:10 -0700, RF <RF@NoDen.con> wrote:

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in 2 years.

Go unto:
http://www3.sears.com
and inscribe 721.63252301 into the search box. It should point to
exploded view diagrams with part numbers.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=721.63252301

The diode is rather generic and commonly available:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380157469830
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260436360616
12Kv 350ma

Thanks Jeff for the links.
That looks like a very good solution. Will check it out :)

You might wanna look into a diode with better ratings. I see 15Kv
500ma diodes available in the same form factor.
Click to expand...
Oh yeah that's it, fuck with the safety issues dumbass.

As Mr Meat Plow mumbled, check for arcing. The snapping noise you
heard may have been arcing in the waveguide or maggot-tron. You can
usually see some evidence of the burn like damage on the waveguide
walls. If you have it apart, it's easy to inspect (with a dental
mirror). I must be leading a charmed life, but I've only seen arcing
twice.
Click to expand...
Yeah, in both of the microwave ovens you worked on.

Both were caused by a bad fit between the waveguide and the
maggot-tron causing high VSWR and thus high voltages. You might want
to check if everything is assembled correctly and fits tight.
Click to expand...
No shit Sherlock.
 
Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in
news:3796a7.2d0.19.2@news.alt.net:

On Fri, 16 Oct 2009 19:22:01 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
jeffl@cruzio.com>wrote:

On Fri, 16 Oct 2009 15:27:23 -0700, RF <RF@NoDen.con> wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:13:10 -0700, RF <RF@NoDen.con> wrote:

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in 2
years.

Go unto:
http://www3.sears.com
and inscribe 721.63252301 into the search box. It should point to
exploded view diagrams with part numbers.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?mo
delNumber=721.63252301

The diode is rather generic and commonly available:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380157469830
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260436360616
12Kv 350ma

Thanks Jeff for the links.
That looks like a very good solution. Will check it out :)

You might wanna look into a diode with better ratings. I see 15Kv
500ma diodes available in the same form factor.

Oh yeah that's it, fuck with the safety issues dumbass.
Click to expand...
How does putting in a higher rated rectifier DIODE affect the "safety" of
the MWoven?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
 
On Sat, 17 Oct 2009 09:28:04 -0400, Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net>
wrote:

On Fri, 16 Oct 2009 19:22:01 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
jeffl@cruzio.com>wrote:
You might wanna look into a diode with better ratings. I see 15Kv
500ma diodes available in the same form factor.

Oh yeah that's it, fuck with the safety issues dumbass.
Click to expand...
Such "safety" issues are for people that don't understand how things
work. Increasing the voltage and current rations on the damping diode
25% might give a the OP a bit more voltage margin if he's doing
something that might cause arcing. However, it's not going to prevent
blowing the breaker or the diode with a very high VSWR situation
caused by an arc simulating a sorted waveguide, which reflects all the
forward power back to the maggot-tron. For infinite VSWR, the
maggot-tron is going to see about twice the normal operating voltage
(if the reflected signal is in phase) or twice the current draw (if
the reflected signal is otto phase). Both those situation will blow
the diode from either too much voltage or too much current.

My assumption (possibly incorrect) is that commodity consumer products
are usually designed with minimim component specs and margin to save
costs. Under normal operating conditions, it wouldn't matter if it
were a 12kV/350ma or 15kV/500ma diode but the lower rating is probably
a few pennies cheaper. If it's a bad fit between around the waveguide
causing internal arcing, then it won't matter which one is used.
Either both blow. If it's something else, it might offer slightly
more time before blowing to determine the cause.

As Mr Meat Plow mumbled, check for arcing. The snapping noise you
heard may have been arcing in the waveguide or maggot-tron. You can
usually see some evidence of the burn like damage on the waveguide
walls. If you have it apart, it's easy to inspect (with a dental
mirror). I must be leading a charmed life, but I've only seen arcing
twice.

Yeah, in both of the microwave ovens you worked on.
Click to expand...
Full disclosure: I vaguely recall repairing (i.e. replaced parts
inside) about 5 assorted microwave ovens. It's not what I normally
do. I will concede that I'm not that experienced in mw oven repair.
One point for you.

Both were caused by a bad fit between the waveguide and the
maggot-tron causing high VSWR and thus high voltages. You might want
to check if everything is assembled correctly and fits tight.

No shit Sherlock.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I perform an un-natural act by agreeing with your comment and
you still shovel the manure. What does it take to obtain your
approval?



--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Oct 15, 6:13 pm, RF <R...@NoDen.con> wrote:
Hi Experts,

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in 2 years.
Both times it blew there was a pop, then a smell of overheated plastic
and then a loud hum. I took it to Sears the first time and they replaced
the
diode. It then worked fine though it had  very small usage.

Now is the second time and it is off the warranty. I opened up the oven
case and
quickly found the diode. It has the marker T3512 and H6N below it. One
end of the
diode has two silver bands around it. It doesn't look overheated.
Click to expand...
Do a test on the diode, then; it's unlikely that it is dead, but
possible.
A 'pop' can mean any kind of spark, a smell can be left over from
the first failure, and 'loud hum' might mean you hear the
fan motor loudly when you listen (but would ignore it in normal
circumstances).

Most microwave oven failures are traced to the interlock switches
and fuses, so check those too.

All tests will be with the power disconnected, and the capacitor
discharged
(i.e. crowbar it with an insulated handle tool), of course.
 
On Sat, 17 Oct 2009 12:05:11 -0500, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>wrote:

Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in
news:3796a7.2d0.19.2@news.alt.net:

On Fri, 16 Oct 2009 19:22:01 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
jeffl@cruzio.com>wrote:

On Fri, 16 Oct 2009 15:27:23 -0700, RF <RF@NoDen.con> wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:13:10 -0700, RF <RF@NoDen.con> wrote:

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in 2
years.

Go unto:
http://www3.sears.com
and inscribe 721.63252301 into the search box. It should point to
exploded view diagrams with part numbers.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?mo
delNumber=721.63252301

The diode is rather generic and commonly available:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380157469830
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260436360616
12Kv 350ma

Thanks Jeff for the links.
That looks like a very good solution. Will check it out :)

You might wanna look into a diode with better ratings. I see 15Kv
500ma diodes available in the same form factor.

Oh yeah that's it, fuck with the safety issues dumbass.

How does putting in a higher rated rectifier DIODE affect the "safety" of
the MWoven?
Click to expand...
Your obvious lack of intelligence over consumer safety issues doesn't
surprise me in the least.
 
On Sat, 17 Oct 2009 11:48:15 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
<jeffl@cruzio.com>wrote:

On Sat, 17 Oct 2009 09:28:04 -0400, Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net
wrote:

On Fri, 16 Oct 2009 19:22:01 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
jeffl@cruzio.com>wrote:
You might wanna look into a diode with better ratings. I see 15Kv
500ma diodes available in the same form factor.

Oh yeah that's it, fuck with the safety issues dumbass.

Such "safety" issues are for people that don't understand how things
work. Increasing the voltage and current rations on the damping diode
25% might give a the OP a bit more voltage margin if he's doing
something that might cause arcing. However, it's not going to prevent
blowing the breaker or the diode with a very high VSWR situation
caused by an arc simulating a sorted waveguide, which reflects all the
forward power back to the maggot-tron. For infinite VSWR, the
maggot-tron is going to see about twice the normal operating voltage
(if the reflected signal is in phase) or twice the current draw (if
the reflected signal is otto phase). Both those situation will blow
the diode from either too much voltage or too much current.

My assumption (possibly incorrect) is that commodity consumer products
are usually designed with minimim component specs and margin to save
costs. Under normal operating conditions, it wouldn't matter if it
were a 12kV/350ma or 15kV/500ma diode but the lower rating is probably
a few pennies cheaper. If it's a bad fit between around the waveguide
causing internal arcing, then it won't matter which one is used.
Either both blow. If it's something else, it might offer slightly
more time before blowing to determine the cause.

As Mr Meat Plow mumbled, check for arcing. The snapping noise you
heard may have been arcing in the waveguide or maggot-tron. You can
usually see some evidence of the burn like damage on the waveguide
walls. If you have it apart, it's easy to inspect (with a dental
mirror). I must be leading a charmed life, but I've only seen arcing
twice.

Yeah, in both of the microwave ovens you worked on.

Full disclosure: I vaguely recall repairing (i.e. replaced parts
inside) about 5 assorted microwave ovens. It's not what I normally
do. I will concede that I'm not that experienced in mw oven repair.
One point for you.

Both were caused by a bad fit between the waveguide and the
maggot-tron causing high VSWR and thus high voltages. You might want
to check if everything is assembled correctly and fits tight.

No shit Sherlock.

Thanks. I perform an un-natural act by agreeing with your comment and
you still shovel the manure. What does it take to obtain your
approval?
Click to expand...
I did factory repair for cheap brands like but not limited to Goldstar
and Tatung (basically Korean) back when the Amana Radar Range models
started to be taken over by those who didn't have a grand to spend on
the cheapest Amana. Also have worked on a ton of commercial Amanas
(every Burger King seemed to have at least one back then.)

On another note, stop with the cheap shot innuendoes. It's hard to
respect those even with the vast knowledge you have when they fuck
with you in a non humorous manner.
 
On Sun, 18 Oct 2009 10:37:57 -0400, Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net>
wrote:

I did factory repair for cheap brands like but not limited to Goldstar
and Tatung (basically Korean) back when the Amana Radar Range models
started to be taken over by those who didn't have a grand to spend on
the cheapest Amana. Also have worked on a ton of commercial Amanas
(every Burger King seemed to have at least one back then.)
Click to expand...
Ok, you're an experienced expert, assuming you didn't just juggle
sub-assemblies and modules. However, I still think that increasing
the diode rating 25% is a good idea and doesn't have an effect on
safety, unless the diode is somehow used as a crowbar to blow the
fuse.

On another note, stop with the cheap shot innuendoes. It's hard to
respect those even with the vast knowledge you have when they fuck
with you in a non humorous manner.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure I know how to do that without being abusive, abrasive,
irritating, obnoxious, humiliating, etc. I've been answering usenet
questions for so long, that it's become almost an institution. It's
also fun. Of course, when customers pay for my advice, I can be
diplomatic. On rare occasions, I even use a spelling chequer.

It might be helpful if I point out that few of my assorted usenet
rants are intended to be insulting. They're intended to inspire the
intended target to think. I never offer an opinion without
substantiation, usually in detail, and with plenty of examples, URL's,
analogies, and detail. I've experimented with various styles of
answering questions and engaging in discussions. Humor, mixed with
satire, and a dash of "you're not meeting my expectations" is what
seems to work best for me. Motivation through humiliation is not very
popular or politically correct, but it works well. For example,
getting people with questions to supply enough information to answer
their question is often a difficult process. If you are on the
receiving end of one of my detailed rants, you might ask yourself why
I would spend the time on you.

Re-reading my previous rants in this thread, I don't see where I have
"fuck(ed) with you in a non-humorous manner". If I did, it was not
intentional, so please accept my apologies. However, if you're
complaining about my style or method of argumentation, as I indicated,
I'm not sure I can change that even if I wanted to do so.

However, I'll offer you a deal. I'll try to control my verbal fencing
with you, if you will ease up on the profanity (even when I screwup).
I don't have a problem with profanity, except that it creates a
generally unprofessional impression. I just hate to see someone do
that to themselves.



--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in
news:37bu48.gpu.19.22@news.alt.net:

On Sat, 17 Oct 2009 12:05:11 -0500, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>wrote:

Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in
news:3796a7.2d0.19.2@news.alt.net:

On Fri, 16 Oct 2009 19:22:01 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
jeffl@cruzio.com>wrote:

On Fri, 16 Oct 2009 15:27:23 -0700, RF <RF@NoDen.con> wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:13:10 -0700, RF <RF@NoDen.con> wrote:

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in 2
years.

Go unto:
http://www3.sears.com
and inscribe 721.63252301 into the search box. It should point
to exploded view diagrams with part numbers.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?
mo delNumber=721.63252301

The diode is rather generic and commonly available:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380157469830
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260436360616
12Kv 350ma

Thanks Jeff for the links.
That looks like a very good solution. Will check it out :)

You might wanna look into a diode with better ratings. I see 15Kv
500ma diodes available in the same form factor.

Oh yeah that's it, fuck with the safety issues dumbass.

How does putting in a higher rated rectifier DIODE affect the "safety"
of the MWoven?

Your obvious lack of intelligence over consumer safety issues doesn't
surprise me in the least.
Click to expand...
I note you can't answer the simple question. Instead,you make an attack.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
 
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in
news:rbjmd59f73uatcpkj25m1nrqpm624jab0b@4ax.com:

On Sun, 18 Oct 2009 10:37:57 -0400, Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net
wrote:

I did factory repair for cheap brands like but not limited to Goldstar
and Tatung (basically Korean) back when the Amana Radar Range models
started to be taken over by those who didn't have a grand to spend on
the cheapest Amana. Also have worked on a ton of commercial Amanas
(every Burger King seemed to have at least one back then.)

Ok, you're an experienced expert, assuming you didn't just juggle
sub-assemblies and modules. However, I still think that increasing
the diode rating 25% is a good idea and doesn't have an effect on
safety, unless the diode is somehow used as a crowbar to blow the
fuse.
Click to expand...
I note he didn't answer my question about HOW increasing the rating on the
HV diode would affect safety". Instead,he made an attack.
IOW,he doesn't know,thus not so "expert".

I don't believe the HV diode is "used as a crowbar" to blow the fuse,nor is
the diode intended to blow as a "safety" device.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
 
whit3rd wrote:
On Oct 15, 6:13 pm, RF <R...@NoDen.con> wrote:
Hi Experts,

This model 721.63252 301 has gone belly up for the 2nd time in 2 years.
Both times it blew there was a pop, then a smell of overheated plastic
and then a loud hum. I took it to Sears the first time and they replaced
the
diode. It then worked fine though it had very small usage.

Now is the second time and it is off the warranty. I opened up the oven
case and
quickly found the diode. It has the marker T3512 and H6N below it. One
end of the
diode has two silver bands around it. It doesn't look overheated.

Do a test on the diode, then; it's unlikely that it is dead, but
possible.
A 'pop' can mean any kind of spark, a smell can be left over from
the first failure, and 'loud hum' might mean you hear the
fan motor loudly when you listen (but would ignore it in normal
circumstances).

Most microwave oven failures are traced to the interlock switches
and fuses, so check those too.

All tests will be with the power disconnected, and the capacitor
discharged
(i.e. crowbar it with an insulated handle tool), of course.
Click to expand...

My thanks to everyone for their interest and efforts and my condolences for
the strains.

To answer a question from just above, there is no doubt that the hum
that appeared just before I shut the oven off was FAR louder than the
normal operating level.

The situation now is that the replacement diode I ordered has arrived
and is now
installed. Question now is, should I start up the oven or getter a
stronger diode?
Thanks Jeff for the suggestion.

I looked through the Sears website (Thanks Jeff) and found the model but
the transformer,
magnetron and diode are missing. Even a search for the word diode gives
nothing.

BTW, has anyone seen the wierd screws that are used to keep the cover on
the oven?
They are Torx but with a difference. There is a tiny but very strong
spike right
in the middle of the hole in the screw where the key fits. SO in
essence, to remove the
screws the right way, a Torx key with a hole in it is the way to go.
That should keep
most users away but not engineers, mechanics and other knowledgeable
folks :)
 
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