Iron tip trouble

Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C but never left there, also 300 & 350. The tips crud up severely very quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed spirits, and if that does't work file them to copper. Any better suggestions before I do?


NT

 

[Rick C]

On Wednesday, July 31, 2019 at 6:22:16 PM UTC-4, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
> Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C but never left there, also 300 & 350. The tips crud up severely very quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed spirits, and if that does't work file them to copper. Any better suggestions before I do?

Copper is definitely not the answer. Copper will be eaten away as you use the tip.

I use a brass shaving container to clean the tip.

--

Rick C.

- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging
- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209

 

[John Robertson]

On 2019/07/31 3:46 p.m., Rick C wrote:

On Wednesday, July 31, 2019 at 6:22:16 PM UTC-4, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C but never left there, also 300 & 350. The tips crud up severely very quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed spirits, and if that does't work file them to copper. Any better suggestions before I do?

Copper is definitely not the answer. Copper will be eaten away as you use the tip.

I use a brass shaving container to clean the tip.

Cheap tools lead to shoddy work. Get an inexpensive temp controlled
soldering station with a tinned tip if you want to do reasonable work on
PCBs.

A Soldapullt is also highly recommended for basic work.

http://www.edsyn.com/product/DS017.html

We use these in our shop and they last for decades! Get the real thing
as the cheap Chinese knockoffs break literally in days...

John :-#(#

 

[Martin Riddle]

On Wed, 31 Jul 2019 15:22:12 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C but never left there, also 300 & 350. The tips crud up severely very quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed spirits, and if that does't work file them to copper. Any better suggestions before I do?


NT

Might just be a cheap tip, My orange weller came with a cheap tip and
once I replacee it all was well.

Cheers

 

[Steve Wilson]

Martin Riddle <martin_ridd@verizon.net> wrote:

On Wed, 31 Jul 2019 15:22:12 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C
but never left there, also 300 & 350. The tips crud up severely very
quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed
spirits, and if that does't work file them to copper. Any better
suggestions before I do?

NT

Might just be a cheap tip, My orange weller came with a cheap tip and
once I replacee it all was well.

Cheers

Try an IR soldering iron. It doesn't stay hot to burn you when you are not
looking. It may work better than a soldering iron in some cases. It is very
inexpensive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2legyrYhdw

You can get the cigarette lighters on Amazon.

 

[mpm]

On Wednesday, July 31, 2019 at 6:22:16 PM UTC-4, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:

Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C but never left there, also 300 & 350. The tips crud up severely very quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed spirits, and if that does't work file them to copper. Any better suggestions before I do?


NT

Also, check your solder to make sure it's the right type.
Flux too, if you use it.
But sounds like cheap tips run too hot. Won't last.

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2019-07-31, tabbypurr@gmail.com <tabbypurr@gmail.com> wrote:
> Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C but never left there, also 300 & 350. The tips crud up severely very quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed spirits, and if that does't work file them to copper. Any better suggestions before I do?

have you tried the brass wool stuff?

killed spirits will do the trick, but it's corrosive.

--
When I tried casting out nines I made a hash of it.

 

[Chris]

On 07/31/19 23:22, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C but never left there, also 300& 350. The tips crud up severely very quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed spirits, and if that does't work file them to copper. Any better suggestions before I do?


NT

Buy cheap, buy twice. used Weller for decades, but then
invested in a s/hand Metcal and never looked back. Makes
everything else look like a blacksmiths poker...

Chris

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 7/31/19 6:22 PM, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C but never left there, also 300 & 350. The tips crud up severely very quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed spirits, and if that does't work file them to copper. Any better suggestions before I do?


NT

RA flux and brass wool.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

 

[Jan Panteltje]

On a sunny day (Thu, 01 Aug 2019 14:05:43 +0100) it happened Chris
<xxx.syseng.yyy@gfsys.co.uk> wrote in <qhuo36$405$1@gioia.aioe.org>:

On 07/31/19 23:22, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C but never left there, also 300& 350. The tips crud
up severely very quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed spirits, and if that does't work file
them to copper. Any better suggestions before I do?


NT

Buy cheap, buy twice. used Weller for decades, but then
invested in a s/hand Metcal and never looked back. Makes
everything else look like a blacksmiths poker...

Chris

I am going to try that car cigarette lighter heater thing described here a few days back.
One is on its way here.

 

[Jan Panteltje]

On a sunny day (Thu, 1 Aug 2019 09:40:27 -0400) it happened Phil Hobbs
<pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote in
<f8CdnZShnZNRdt_AnZ2dnUU7-VGdnZ2d@supernews.com>:

On 7/31/19 6:22 PM, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C but never left there, also 300 & 350. The tips crud
up severely very quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed spirits, and if that does't work file
them to copper. Any better suggestions before I do?


NT


RA flux and brass wool.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

No, I just use napkins to clean the tips, tips last forever.
Do not use water, no sponge, and no abrasives or chemicals.
Clean after every use.
Buy a decent temperature controlled soldering iron with a set of plated tips
in different sizes.

 

[John Larkin]

On Thu, 1 Aug 2019 09:40:27 -0400, Phil Hobbs
<pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

On 7/31/19 6:22 PM, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C but never left there, also 300 & 350. The tips crud up severely very quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed spirits, and if that does't work file them to copper. Any better suggestions before I do?


NT


RA flux and brass wool.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

My Metcal tips seem to last forever. I must have a year or two on the
one I usually use.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics

 

[Cursitor Doom]

On Thu, 01 Aug 2019 14:05:43 +0100, Chris wrote:

Buy cheap, buy twice. used Weller for decades, but then invested in a
s/hand Metcal and never looked back. Makes everything else look like a
blacksmiths poker...

Antex, when they were made in England, were really hard to beat. I'm
still using my 25W one I bought back in 1980. Nothing fancy; just keeps
on going. And going. And going.
More recently I bought a 15W Antex. It didn't have the same quality feel
and turned out to have been made in China under licence. It went 'phut'
within a year after partially melting. Why do such companies ruin their
reputations just to save a few quid?




--
This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via
the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other
protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of
GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet
protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

 

[Chris]

On 08/01/19 17:59, Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Thu, 01 Aug 2019 14:05:43 +0100, Chris wrote:

Buy cheap, buy twice. used Weller for decades, but then invested in a
s/hand Metcal and never looked back. Makes everything else look like a
blacksmiths poker...

Antex, when they were made in England, were really hard to beat. I'm
still using my 25W one I bought back in 1980. Nothing fancy; just keeps
on going. And going. And going.
More recently I bought a 15W Antex. It didn't have the same quality feel
and turned out to have been made in China under licence. It went 'phut'
within a year after partially melting. Why do such companies ruin their
reputations just to save a few quid?

They were good back then and i'm still looking for a set of the Antex
hot tweezers, which are a real boon for stripping ptfe wire. The only
problem with Antex was lack of temperature control and the bits sieze
up if you don't free them up regularly. Weller tcp was the first decent
soldering iron here and never any problem left on all day, but not
subtle enough for fine work.

Made my own soldering iron at school, electric fire wire, mica
sheet for insulation and heater transformer to drive it. Did
work, but never quite got the temperature right. Commercial soldering
irons were expensive back then..

Chris

 

On Thursday, 1 August 2019 19:53:48 UTC+1, Chris wrote:

On 08/01/19 17:59, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Thu, 01 Aug 2019 14:05:43 +0100, Chris wrote:

Buy cheap, buy twice. used Weller for decades, but then invested in a
s/hand Metcal and never looked back. Makes everything else look like a
blacksmiths poker...

Antex, when they were made in England, were really hard to beat. I'm
still using my 25W one I bought back in 1980. Nothing fancy; just keeps
on going. And going. And going.
More recently I bought a 15W Antex. It didn't have the same quality feel
and turned out to have been made in China under licence. It went 'phut'
within a year after partially melting. Why do such companies ruin their
reputations just to save a few quid?





They were good back then and i'm still looking for a set of the Antex
hot tweezers, which are a real boon for stripping ptfe wire. The only
problem with Antex was lack of temperature control and the bits sieze
up if you don't free them up regularly. Weller tcp was the first decent
soldering iron here and never any problem left on all day, but not
subtle enough for fine work.

Made my own soldering iron at school, electric fire wire, mica
sheet for insulation and heater transformer to drive it. Did
work, but never quite got the temperature right. Commercial soldering
irons were expensive back then..

Chris

Antexes... no heat or power control. I made my first Weller TCP from a pile of little bits. Worked great.


NT

 

On Wednesday, 31 July 2019 23:22:16 UTC+1, tabbypurr wrote:

Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C but never left there, also 300 & 350. The tips crud up severely very quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed spirits, and if that does't work file them to copper. Any better suggestions before I do?


NT

Did the job. Killed spirits got some off, but not enough. Copper scourer got some off but not much. What worked in the end was scraping it with steel at 300C. Whatever that muck is, it's tenacious. If I get a round tuit I might try getting a bulk pack of brass bits, otherwise I think it's gonna be buy a new one time.


NT

 

[bitrex]

On 7/31/19 6:22 PM, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C but never left there, also 300 & 350. The tips crud up severely very quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed spirits, and if that does't work file them to copper. Any better suggestions before I do?


NT

A block of sal ammoniac works wonders for de-crudding tips. Surprised
nobody has suggested it yet

<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salammoniac>

 

My Metcal tips seem to last forever. I must have a year or two on the
one I usually use.

My fave is the STTC-126, which has a super-useful short curved conical point.

I dislike the Metcal Talon hot tweezers, though, because they magnetically attract the nickel end caps of SMT passives.

It's bad enough hand-soldering 0402s without them sticking to the iron like momma.

Anybody got a good set of non-magnetic hot tweezers?

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

 

[Robert Baer]

Rick C wrote:

On Wednesday, July 31, 2019 at 6:22:16 PM UTC-4, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
Got a cheapo soldering station for part removal. It's often used at 400C but never left there, also 300 & 350. The tips crud up severely very quickly, then can't even melt solder with it at 400. Going to try killed spirits, and if that does't work file them to copper. Any better suggestions before I do?

Copper is definitely not the answer. Copper will be eaten away as you use the tip.
* NOT if you use Multicore Savbit

I use a brass shaving container to clean the tip.
* Your stubble is _brass_?

 

[whit3rd]

On Thursday, August 1, 2019 at 6:05:48 AM UTC-7, Chris wrote:

On 07/31/19 23:22, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
Got a cheapo soldering station ...\The tips crud up severely very quickly

Buy cheap, buy twice. used Weller for decades, but then
invested in a s/hand Metcal and never looked back. Makes
everything else look like a blacksmiths poker...

It depends on what kind of soldering you want to do; a copper-slug-on-a-steel-stick
'iron' actually works rather well for the right job. Most tip problems can be fixed,
even if it takes a jeweler's silver solder and torch to re-plate a tip, but using the wrong
heat or tip size/shape or running into a variety of 'anti-flux' materials
will cause the kind of bad-tip issue described here. Often a cleaner/flux/solder
can be found to fix it, but buying new tips is the only easy solution.